24/07/26 - London Spiral - Stage 26 - Farningham Road to Gravesend

5 Years

That's exactly how long ago - to the day - it is since I set out from King's Cross on the London Spiral.

26 day walks later, having crossed the Thames by bridge, boat, underneath and cable car. I've reached the end of the track. Although some variations cross the water again to Tilbury. But there be monsters.

I've walked out of Gravesend on the London Countryway, and I was right to not expect too much. It's impossible to access or escape, with gyratory road systems and urban spread.

But I have to get there first - and that is no fun at all either.

It's all lanes to Grub Street, where I thought I would be grateful for the countryside to the admittedly pretty Southfleet. Alas, the countryside is a horror show. Head height crops and disappearing paths. It is possible to walk around the sweetcorn but a wade through thigh-high stinging nettles and thistles is impossible.

The only photo I have is an unopened pub in Southfleet.

There are no bad pubs in the country called ‘The Ship Inn.’

From a walking perspective, a fitting end to the London Spiral Walk. It's certainly not been one for the walking purist and there were times - especially in the latter stages of housing estates of unloved London boroughs, where I thought of knocking it on the head.

Instead, I have proved that I see things through to the bitter end. 

A planned two-centre celebration for the new Good Beer Guide Ticks in Gravesend.

The Three Pillars is easily missed. A cellar bar in a Masonic hall, accessed only by steep steps. Even with Google Maps, it's a tough find.

There's a pub down there

So you would think they would make it easy for the unsuspecting traveller who has made it this far. The first sign is "Cash Only". Of course, I have no cash. You can't lie to Bromley Tramps if you do.

Despite a friendly but complicated explanation of where the nearest cash point is, I saw nothing (apart from the air conditioning) to warrant drinking alone in an underground bunker.

My other new tick - reached without passing an ATM - is the Invicta Bar. 

Open-fronted micro bar

They take card here. Mainly because they charge £7.40 to celebrate the end of an odyssey like a Mexican.

Enjoyed once, but I'm off to 'Spoons

Of course, there will be a summary blog of the route. Once I have had time to review 26 walks over 5 years.

Walk Details

Distance -  9 miles

Start - Farningham Road

Finish - Gravesend

Areas Walked - Gravesend

Geocaches - 1

Pubs - 2

Previous Walks - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10, Stage 11, Stage 12, Stage 13, Stage 14, Stage 15, Stage 16, Stage 17, Stage 18, Stage 19, Stage 20, Stage 21, Stage 22, Stage 23, Stage 24, Stage 25

23/07/26 - London Spiral Stage 25 - Knockholt to Farningham Road

Penultimate Pleasure

The final two days on the London Spiral act as a metaphor for the whole route. Today, it's lovely countryside walking on great paths. Tomorrow, the grim descent into Gravesend. The route has never been a 100% success but I am not a quitter.

The other good things about these final throes - single digit walking.

From Knockholt station, two pubs are instantly possible but even I feel the drink needs to be earned. The Bo Beep boasting an existence since 1500.

Open, but I haven’t walked enough miles to justify it.

Across fields, with views of the distant London skyscrapers and then a long passage through Lullingstone Park and the castle. Dodging golf balls.

Nestled in the Darent Valley near Eynsford, Kent, Lullingstone Castle is one of England's oldest family estates, with the Hart Dyke family having owned it continuously since the late fifteenth century. Although described as a castle, the present building is principally a Tudor manor house, incorporating elements of an earlier medieval residence whose imposing gatehouse still survives.

There’s London, from the extremes of the Spiral Walk.

A first glimpse of Lullingstone Castle

and the gatehouse

I walked the Darent Way 9 years ago - so the route under Eynsford Viaduct should be familiar. It isn't. I only know that I have visited the picture postcard Lion pub when I try to rescan the Cask Marque QR code. During that 2017 visit, it was Doom Bar for £3.65. Today, it's Harvey's Sussex Best for £6.05. What does that say? Better choice of beer? Inflation has been running at an average of 6% over the last nine years.

And yet the King of the North says it's 2.8%. 

I'm off-track and ranting again.

Look at that for timing!

Next to the folly bridge and the River Darent

Time is against me with an hourly train from Farningham Road - the walking along the river, under the M20 is pretty and geocache laden. 

What lies beneath

I made it with one minute to spare, knowing I will be back tomorrow.

If I survive lawless Bromley.

Walk Details

Distance -  9 miles

Start - Knockholt

Finish - Farningham Road

Areas Walked - Lullingstone, Eynsford

Geocaches - 9

Pubs - 1

Previous Walks - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10, Stage 11, Stage 12, Stage 13, Stage 14, Stage 15, Stage 16, Stage 17, Stage 18, Stage 19, Stage 20, Stage 21, Stage 22, Stage 23, Stage 24

17/06/25 - Saxon Shore Way - Stage 10 - Hamstreet to Rye

Stalked 

Two nights in Rye. Home of the Mapp and Lucia novels. Kind of made sense for an extended Mappiman stay.

It's stunning: walk medieval cobbled streets, drink in ancient pubs, and admire the ever-changing architecture. Eat the best curry I have ever had at the Mahdi Spice. I don't say that lightly - and I will never have a biryani with dal again.

Bread crust removed to reveal a pot of joy

Not without slight disappointment though. I’m here on a Monday and Tuesday, but the Ypres Castle—much admired on social media and a place I am desperate to visit—doesn’t open until Thursday.

Jeffrey Jon Bell, why do you forsake me?

I'm getting ahead myself - and the pubs will probably need a separate blog. First the walking.

The train whisks me back to Hamstreet.

Early walking on the Saxon Shore Way (SSW) is through Gusbourne Vineyard. Field after field, with information boards explaining what’s growing (or not), alongside jolly grape pickers working the vines.

English Wine

For the first time in days, the SSW has civilisation on route. I reached Appledore by 11 am—just too early for the pub on the wide high street. Half a mile on, and the Ferry Inn is a very civilised opener. Harvey's Sussex Best showing how close I am to the border.

A wonderful pint. In my Top 3 beers, if you are interested.

Sussex Best, very nearly in Sussex

A prolonged liquid pre-lunch before hitting the trail again. I get to understand how the Romney Marsh drainage system works by walking along Reading Sewer, before rejoining my old friend, the Royal Military Canal for the final stretch to Rye.

Military Canal Walking

Do you ever get the feeling you are being watched?

My son and his girlfriend have returned yesterday from five months in Australia. They are in the same county as me, but it is a 2 hour trip from Horsham to Rye. I never thought for minute that jet-lagged, and with a meetup planned for the weekend anyway, they would make the journey. 

Armed with vague information from Mrs M of my card transactions they want to surprise me when I settle down for a post walk pint.

I'm being followed

They are too late for me at the Globe Inn Marsh. They follow me on my hunt for afternoon tiffin, with laughs provided when my pork‑pie quest from 'Simon the Pie Man' came up empty.

Eventually, they give up the chase and ask if I am coming down at my digs in the Hope Anchor.

A re-union that made my trip and now I've got company for Rye Pubs!

Emotional Mappiman, Ambushed

Walk Details

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9

Distance - 11.7 Miles

Geocaches - 2

 

16/06/25 - Saxon Shore Way - Stage 9 - West Hythe to Hamstreet

Canal Dreams

Easy bus journey from Folkestone to West Hythe, timed to perfection to meet the breakfast offerings at Unit 1. Get in quick on a Monday morning before the local rambling group overpower the place.

Then it's decision time... To be true to the Saxon Shore Way (SSW), I would have to climb up a busy lane with no pavement to walk about a mile on the ridge, only to drop back down to the Royal Military Canal I am stood next to.

Easy navigation canal walking it is. And what a feat of engineering the Royal Military Canal is.

The Royal Military Canal was constructed between 1804 and 1809 as a defensive measure during the Napoleonic Wars, running 28 miles from Seabrook near Folkestone to Cliff End near Hastings. Built to deter and delay a feared French invasion, the canal formed a barrier along the vulnerable Romney Marsh, allowing British troops to move quickly along its northern bank while impeding enemy progress.

A Military Canal

There's next to nothing to report on this leg of the SSW. I have headed inland - with the Romney Marsh below. This is an area of land reclaimed from the sea through sea walls and drainage.  It looks far more interesting on the map than in real life. OS Maps showing no greenery and a maze of waterways. Occasionally, the nuclear power station at Dungeness comes into view.

Romney Marsh

For the walker, it's just sheep fields and woodland. No civilisation, nowhere for refreshments and only a trail of geocaches to provide entertainment until the railway station at Hamstreet whisks me to Rye.

And what an amazing place that is!

Walk Details

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8

Distance - 11.5 Miles

Geocaches - 22

15/06/25 - Saxon Shore Way - Stage 8 - Folkestone to West Hythe

How to Escape Folkestone?

I left the Saxon Shore Way (SSW) about 4 miles to the east of Folkestone. How to resume? I have the grand idea over scrambled eggs to get an Uber to the Battle of Britain Museum. In the app it showed 'busier than usual', followed by 'try again another day'.

Looking at the map, I can access the path on a footpath that steeply ascends Creteway Down to the north. Like many an idea of mine, it is flawed. Very badly overgrown and my Rohan Stretch Bags take a right battering with the thistles. At least I wasn't wearing shorts, I would have been cut to shreds.

On high, the path shows itself as a series of ups and downs as the 2000 year old shoreline moves further away from the current position of the sea. Sugarloaf Hill and Caesar's Camp providing an early morning workout. 

The M20 dissecting Sugar Loaf and Caesar's Camp

The views are dominated by the never ending Channel Tunnel Terminal. The SSW seems to completely avoid any civilisation, so nothing is passed and no refreshments available. Only one pair of walkers seen all day. 

I declared the walking over at Shepway Cross for a steep drop down to the Royal Military Canal, which will be my friend for the remainder of the walk. There, in West Hythe, is the incredibly popular ‘Good Beer Guide tick’ pub, Unit 1. Packed to capacity with families in an outside garden.

Shepway Cross

The heat required German Keg. A well-received Krombacher before the bus back into Folkestone. 

Krombacher with a water chaser

Walk Details

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7

Distance - 13 Miles

Geocaches - 5

14/06/25 - Saxon Shore Way - Stage 7 - Deal to Folkestone

Dover is Over

The longest day on the Saxon Shore Way (SSW). Yet, surprisingly little happens.

A circuitous exit from Deal, investigating the unexplored southern part of town via Adventure Lab Caches. The military history; ancient castles and the Royal Marines.

Beach launched fishing boats

Deal Castle...

... and Walmer Castle, a little further down the coast

The Zetland Arms is passed a little too early. I may have been tempted if it wasn't a Shepherd Neame pub. No one needs Master Brew for breakfast. It's Special or nothing.

Likewise, the Coastguard Pub at St Margeret's Bay. Double digit miles to go, I'll keep plodding.

St Margeret's Bay - the SSW forces you down and back up again

Then Dover comes into view. And stays in view for a long time. The sky has a weird haze - almost fog-like - a hangover from last night's storm probably. Photos of large passenger ferries moving in and out of the harbour walls are poor. I can't bring you the White Cliffs of Dover, as I am on them.

Dover Patrol on the headland

Then there is the town itself. Whoever Dover was designed for, it wasn't the pedestrian. Crossing roads is near impossible - they are practically motorways, with fast vehicles and central reservation barriers. The signage, when you need it most, disappears. The Good Beer Guide Pubs that are open are up on high in town and away from the SSW. I’m not about to turn this blog into a political rant, but the type of people loitering on street corners might explain why BOOKING.COM is suddenly demanding proof of my nationality at check-in.

Inspiration from Churchill comes to mind. If you are going through hell, keep going.

Crossing Dover on Foot is not for the faint hearted

The cliffs are gained via a precipitous staircase at Western Heights. Where there is a Young Offenders Institute marked on the OS Map. I suppose they have to go somewhere, so may as well be Dover.

A frequent series of Geocaches takes me towards Folkestone. Which is a huge, sprawling town. The odometer clicks onto 15 miles and the watch 3 o'clock. That's plenty, I say to myself. 

The bus can take the strain for the last few miles from the Royal Oak Pub.

This, at the cost of the Battle of Britain Museum, which I can resume my journey from tomorrow. 

Walk Details

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6

Distance - 15 Miles

Geocaches - 27

13/06/25 - Saxon Shore Way - Stage 6 - Thanet Parkway to Deal

Journey Resumed

It's taken three years to resume the Saxon Shore Way (SSW). Naturally enough, I left it at a pub. The Oyster Pearl at Seasalter. A convenient bus stop proving too tempting to pass.

I mused about continuing, though it was never really in doubt. However bored of Shepherds Neame I became and uninspiring the walking of the first stage was, I am never one to leave something unfinished. Plot spoiler. I am glad I did. The second half is far superior.

The reason for the lengthy delay was more to do with the rail strikes. Impossible to plan a multi centre journey if they call a strike on travel days. Things have stabilised over the last 12 months and an incredible four train, five hour journey pulled into Thanet Parkway exactly on time.

Travel Itinerary 

The eagle-eyed may spot that I was meant to alight at Minster. Just a mile from the Saxon Shore Way, but close analysis of the map in later planning revealed that it runs on the opposite side of the River Stour. There is nowhere to cross the river until Sandwich - 5 miles down stream or Pluck's Gutter, 2 miles upstream and in the opposite direction needed. Annoying, but salvation comes in the form of Thanet Parkway. A station that is just 3 minutes from Minster and doesn't even exist on my elderly OS Map.

If only they made it easy to exit as a pedestrian. An instant first wrong turn and double back after finding non-existent paths.

The coast is reached quickly and although not on the banks of the Stour, I am walking more or less in parallel with the SSW. Gentle river paths replaced by skip hire businesses alongside a busy main road that thankfully has the newly formed English Coastal Path running alongside.

The White Cliffs of Ramsgate from the English Coast Path

It's a joy to pick up the SSW at Sandwich, the first of the Cinque Port Towns I will visit over the week.

The Cinque Ports are a historic confederation of coastal towns in southeastern England—originally Hastings, New Romney, Hythe, Dover, and Sandwich—established before the Norman Conquest to provide ships and men for the crown in exchange for privileges like tax exemptions and self-governance.

A beautiful looking town, which I entered by crossing a fortified bridge.

At last, over the Stour.

I hit the New Inn — listed in the Good Beer Guide — with Gadds No. 3 to kick things off, chased with water.

Too hot to sit on orange chairs

Lots of wood.... typical Kentish Pint

The River Stour whisked me down to the seafront for the easiest walking possible all the way into Deal.

Cap flaps deployed on walking hat, but I will spare you that image

The pier marking the end of today's walking.

Plenty of Good Beer ticks to be had, for a separate blog. I vow to stop at the first pub seen. This is the Foresters. A single cask, community local packed with locals. Like most community locals, it has the oddest pub rules.

Just what happens on a Monday night at the Foresters?

I wasn't going to trust cask TT Landlord on a hot day in an unknown pub. Stella - like the locals - taken with a sea view before finding my digs for the night.

Time to consider whether I’ve overstretched that budget-conscious goal I set

What it lacked in en-suite, it made up for with free biscuits

Walk Details

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5

Distance - 11 Miles

Geocaches - 7

12/05/22 - The Good Beer Guide Pubs of Margate

Pubs - 4

Good Beer Guide Ticks - #674 and 675

A final, undiscovered Kentish town - Margate.  A place I have been keen to explore since reading that it was "up and coming". Seaside, close to London, close to the Continent. It has potential as a future Mappiman home.

If they do something with that block of flats that you see on exiting the station.

The rest of the views are lovely. We think we have been here before but it's simply faux memories from watching Only Fools and Horses repeats.

The Harbour - A good place for a pub or two.

An afternoon to kill before our scheduled 4:30pm epic train journey back to the Midlands.

Harbour Arms, Stone Pier, Darkstar Hophead

Two micro pubs at the end of the pier - an idyllic spot to sit and drink. Opening times advertised at midday but for 20 minutes past the hour, we are looking at a gap in a sliding door, hoping it opens further.  Eventually, we give in, pop our head through and are told that the bar staff haven't turned up yet but we can have a pint if we want.  

Of course we want.  Even if we are unsure who is serving us.  Even if it is a gravity pour.

Early doors at the Micropub..... The kent pub scene in a photo

A bit of aimless wandering around waiting for the Good Beer Guide places to open at 3pm leads us to Sheldons.  A pub where karaoke is taking place at 1pm.  At least we think it was karaoke.  You want to see the pubs we turned down before we got here. A dreadful pint of London Pride is probably not the best preparation for a 5 hour train journey.

Tastebuds are revived at Little Swift - a charming half deli, half micro pub. I thought the 2/3rds of Verdant Bloom and Deya Steady Rolling Man, with a £4 olive side were expensive. Then my walking partner went and spent £50 on wine, cheese and general charcuterie. At least he is returning home with gifts.

What does £4 of olives look like?  50p each.

Fez, High Street, Unremembered Cider

A former chemist

This is the future of drinking. Sat in an antique barber's chair, drinking cider because you cannot take any more gravity fed beer and being schooled on English pre-medieval kings by a 76 year old.

It was my fault. I shouldn't have mentioned King Canute.

View from a Barber's Chair.. Cider.

The bible describes it as eclectically furnished. They are not wrong.

Two Halves, Marine Drive, Bedlam Brewery Amagansett

That's all folks...  A final Micro

An hour before train departure and a final micro is a fitting end to our Kent odyssey.

Sea views through the open front.... it felt like we really were on holiday.  

Just as we are leaving.

11/05/22 - The Good Beer Guide Pubs of Whitstable and Herne Bay

Pubs - 6

Good Beer Guide Ticks - #671 to #673

Walking the Saxon Shore Way came to an abrupt end at Seasalter's Oyster Pearl. A combination of aching legs, bad blisters and a highly efficient public transport system.

An afternoon drinking in Whitstable before heading to our digs in Herne Bay to check out the micros.

First an apology to Kent CAMRA. In planning, I used the 2022 Good Beer Guide (of course) and an old CAMRA book called "Fifty More Great Pub Crawls" to create our afternoon.  It was the latter that recommended a couple of pubs that had us asking "How the hell did this get into the Good Beer Guide?"

The answer was.... they hadn't. Our instincts to quickly leave the New Inn, Prince Albert and to a lesser extent, the rather pretty but Shep's led Smack Inn were fully justified.

I also missed a Good Beer Guide Tick at the 12 Taps.  Doh!

The Ship Centurion, High Street, Goachers Silver Staru

Perfectly located. Opposite our bus stop.

And look at this beauty....

Everything you could want from an old school boozer. A delightfully friendly welcome from an enthusiastic and knowledgeable landlady. Great beer.... I will miss Goachers in my Midland home town. Horse racing on the TV. The promise of a regular meat raffle.

Pubs are just so easy to get totally right.  It's a wonder there aren't more doing it.

Pub Life

Lunch

I'd asked on a Facebook walking group for Kentish recommendations for food and pubs. There was a general agreement that Whitstable's Chippy - V.C.Jones should not be missed.  It's all about the beef dripping, apparently

Lunch

It was an old school delight - and other afternoon patrons couldn't get enough of it. The chips were good but the fish was not a patch on any Midlands chippy. Sorry Kent, our batter is better.

Full-up and getting to the next pub with a 70l Rucksack after a week on the Goachers, was a problem.

Yes, with much hilarity, I got stuck.  Children pointed.

Old Neptune, Marine Terrace, Harveys Sussex Best

Right on the Saxon Shore Way (if you don't use a bus)

I waxed lyrical about Harvey's Sussex Best on the train down to Kent and was hoping to find it so I could prove it's quality. After two pints, my walking partner agreed it's one of the best beers money can buy. 

Liquid Perfection

The pub was a hoot. A combination of three cockneys on rose wine holding court at the end of the bar, a jukebox and a frenetic turnover of customers - most better Ramblers than us - made for plenty of banter.

#1 Thing Learned..... Johnny Cash was only popular because all of his live audiences were in jail.

Parkerville, High Street, Herne Bay, Butcombe Citra

A Former Music Shop

The evening and we are fully in the land of the micros. I counted 4, we visited 3 and 2 are in the Good Beer Guide. Including this.

A very rumbustious atmosphere full of blokes who have just clocked off work and are working their way through the top shelf, to supplement their gravity poured pints.

There was a lovely looking live comedy/music stage towards the rear but not enough interest for us to hang around to find out if anyone was playing. Wednesday night... unlikely.

Bouncing Barrel, Bank Street, Saltaire DDH Citra

Limited research has failed to establish what this once was.

I've commented before about the stares you receive when entering a MicoPub. Here, the stares started before we had crossed the threshold. The door was open, I was waiting for my walking partner to get supplies and the landlady, and associated customers, were all eye-balling me. A comment that we were visiting if the they would have us, was pleasantly received.  Personal introductions made we soon fell into quite a detailed conversation about the history of Kent Micro Pubs.  It all started in a nearby town.

This is a no bar micro, with gravity fed beers served from a cold room.

We stayed for one, in the vain hope of finding a pub with the football on.

The Firkin Frog, Station Road, Cider!

We failed to find the football..... but guess what... another Micro!

A former kitchen show room.

The first Micropub opened in Herne Bay but not in the Good Beer Guide. This had beer dispensed from proper hand-pulls but the offerings were from breweries that I had never heard off. The last two gravity pulls had put in a mind to either avoid risk or risk everything.

Spurred on my a recent Beer O'Clock Podcast on Cider, I moved to the light side. For the first time since I was a teenager.

It was like there was a party in my mouth and everyone had been invited.

Mrs M is delighted I have another poison in my armoury.