30/09/18 - The Good Beer Guide Pubs of Coventry

Pubs - 5
Good Beer Guide Ticks - #321-326

An afternoon walking the Coventry Canal Art Trail, a bus from Exhall to the City Centre and 5 Good Beer Guide Ticks to be gained in a City that I know little about.   

This pub crawl was combined with an AA walk that pointed out the major buildings of historical significance.

Before we get to the pubs.   A couple of photos from the City walk.

Old Cathedral

New Cathedral

Possibly Older than Ye Olde Fighting Cocks and Trip to Jerusalem 

The Council House

Plenty more besides, but we would be here all day.   Certainly more medieval architecture than in Birmingham.   Onto the pubs.

The Earl of Mercia, 18 High Street, Elliswood Brewery Royal Standard

I was going to ban Wetherspoons from 2019 Good Beer Guide Ticking.   I was mildly annoyed by their pro-brexitering beermats (my dad taught me never mix politics and beer) but was almost angry enough to take a horse to my local when they banned dogs earlier this year.

However, this one in Coventry is in such a beautiful location - with outdoor seating opposite the stunning Council House pictured above - that I was seduced against my better judgement. 

Better looking out towards the Council House

It was, of course, a mistake of packed bar anger, inexperienced staff shouting "who's next", dirty, sticky tables and chronic beer.  I'm sure the Royal Standard is better than what was offered here.   Even when its more than £2.18 a pint.

The Golden Cross, 8 Hay Lane, Adnams Ghost Ship

More like it - deeply impressive medieval building, right next to the Cathedral.  One stray Luftwaffe bomb and it wouldn't be here for us to enjoy today.   Inside, its had a gastro pub make over that can be described as tasteful.  The beer?  A definite improvement but nothing to write home about.

Golden Cross

Makes a change from a picture of a pint

The Old Windmill, Spon Street, Hogsback TEA

Here's Coventry's hidden beauty.  Spon street has an amazing collection of Tudor Architecture and is home to a number of takeways, restaurants, one classic pub and the frankly unexpected Samoan Joe's Tiki Bar. 

Spon Street By Night

Ignoring the chance to enter a Coventry Beach Bar, I headed into unspoiled Old Windmill.   If Wetherspoons asks the question "why am I bothering to tick GBG Pubs", this fully answers the question.

My Sort of Place

Inside, its a collection of individual wood paneled rooms to take ownership of.  Once settled in with a pint, people may poke their head around the door, but they never intruded.

My Cranny for the Night

A quick note on the music.   Tom Jones' Thunderball worked and added a cinematic feel.   Beastie Boys provided some contemporary head nodding.  Sigue Sigue Sputnik meant it was time to leave.

The Town Crier, Corporation Street, Closed on Sundays

Ahh.... I had the chance to be here before 6pm.    Better research required next time.

No Cask Marque App Check In For Me

Town Wall Tavern, Bond Street, Purity Ubu and Bass

Here we have it - pub of the evening.   What a delight.   A little tricky to find, its tucked down a side street and completely at odds with the other buildings along it, but its worth the effort.

As you would hope, the beer was top draw.  Owed one by the closure of the Town Crier, I had two perfect pints, both served in their ceremonial chalices.  

Inside, there's a friendly bar with plenty of pubby paraphernalia and good pub chat, with more space around the back.   But this pub has a secret - the Donkey Box.

A little door to the front leads to a bar with two stools and enough room, presumably, to fit a donkey.   Perfect for the solo pub ticker, who failed to convince any future punters who mistakenly came in to share the space.

All pubs should have one

Space for Selfies

If you only come to one Coventry Pub, Make it this one

The Gatehouse Tavern, Hill Street, Bass

Not going to leave any Good Beer Guide Pub in the Coventry Ring Road behind, I make the short walk to the Gatehouse Tavern.

Night Falls in Coventry

It's a sports pub - even when the only sport on is darts.   In a feng shui disaster, the largest TV is high in the ceiling above the front door.  This leads to the off putting effect of having every one staring at you when you enter.

Anonymity surrendered, I can only hope that my beer choice meets with approval.   Bass seemed to do the trick - and it was a damn fine example.

Bass, Under the TV

The end of an enjoyable and varied day in Coventry that exceeded expectations.  GBG 2019 proving to be a perfect guide to a new city.

30/09/18 - Coventry Canal Art Trail

Distance - 7 Miles
Geocaches - 1
Walk Inspiration
Pub - Good Beer Guide Tick 320 - The Greyhound, Sutton Stop, Coventry



This is the sort of thing that has to admired but needs to be maintained.   In an effort to promote the regeneration of the Coventry Canals and encourage people to get some exercise, a 27 item, open air gallery has been created.   There is a web site, a map and an i-Spy style sheet to be printed off and ticked as you find them.

The Map and the Art Work Locations

However, the actual art works are looking tatty now.  Used by tramps to sit on and drink, covered in litter and generally run down. 

And once you have seen a dog paw print in a human poo, there's no erasing the image from your brain.

Here's an example.  Of the art work.

James Brindley - Art #1 in Coventry Basin

Frequent Signage

Scabby Fish Seats.  I wouldn't sit on them.

Tunnel lights were intended to come on as you walked past.  

Inspired by a construction seen on the canal locally.  Cov Huckleberry Finn?

Other things seen - the M6 and Coventry City's (is it?) Ricoh Arena.   Who would have predicted 24 hours earlier a 3rd tier football game would have involved Cov vs. Sunderland?

An easy walk and the real reward is at the end.

A 2019 Good Beer Guide Tick at the Greyhound, Sutton Stop.   It's a proper gem.

It sits in the heart of the Canal infrastructure at Hawkesbury Junction - where the Coventry and Oxford canals meet.   Plenty of architectural items of interest, along with the pub itself - a handful of canal cottages knocked together.

End of the Walk Reward

It's proud of its awards - with the bible detailing how it has been a frequent CAMRA Pub of The Year and four time winner of the Godiva Award for best pub in Coventry and Warwickshire.  Pre-empting the smoking ban by 24 years, it was this trophy that took my eye.

Are B&H still a thing?

The pub is impossibly busy.  I struck lucky in both getting a table outside, remembering its number and it still being free by the time I had queued and ordered refreshment.   The Black Sheep (in a Bass glass) was good, but its the beef bourguignon pie with Stilton Flakes that is going to stay in the memory for a long time.

A highly recommended pub.

Black Sheep - Some one Mooring up for a Pint

A couple of final items of interest, as I make my way to Exhall to catch the bus back to town.

Bang on the time predicted by Google Maps.

Engine House

Uncle Albert opposite the Bus Stop

29/9/18 - Heart of England Way Stage 18 - Into Henley

Distance - 6 Miles
Geocaches - 6
Pub - Good Beer Guide Tick 319 - The Three Tuns, Henley in Arden
Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10, Stage 11, Stage 12, Stage 13, Stage 14, Stage 15, Stage 16, Stage 17



So what exactly made the 18th Monthly Walk in the Heart of England Way the best so far?

A combination of bright blue skies, varied footpaths and the first new pub tick from the 2019 Good Beer Guide.   It was also a delight to have the company of Mrs M and Guide Dog in training Joy.

I've never really got on with Henley-in-Arden - even with the mix of historical architecture along its never ending mile long high street.   I walked from here many times and the pubs were always a let down.   We've suffered in the past from poor service (White Swan) and poor value (The Bluebell).   After cross ticking my entries in the new guide, I realise that there is a previously unvisited boozer to look forward to.

And the free parking is always a bonus.  Just tricky finding your way through the courtyards to the High Street.

Ancient Henley

We pick up the Heart of England Way instantly, passing the 2nd church of the day and heading up to the Norman Castle site of Beaudesert Mount. 

View from a former Norman Castle Site

The walking is steady, rather than dramatic.  Careful checking of livestock to see if the dog can "go free".  All we find are their droppings, which are strangely delicious to a 7 month old puppy.

Working our way across Warwickshire

Coppice Corner provides the half way point and a change of scenery as we enter dense woodland.

Into the Woods

Preston Fields Lane is navigated, along with its ford.  Joy hasn't quite determined whether she likes water yet.  Once it gets past her knees, she legs it back to terra firma.  She's dried out by the time we reach Preston Bagot Church and happy to pose for photos.

Preston Bagot - right in the middle of nowhere

Guide Dog in Training Joy

To aid her training, she is introduced to sheep, cows and horses in the fields on the way back to Henley.

Back in Henley

Onto the pub.  The Three Tuns is the chosen one, proudly displaying its brand new bright red "we're in it sticker" in the window.

Just about make out the Sticker in the Window

It's simply too nice to be inside, so we make the most of the street benches to soak up the sun.  Which is a shame, as inside, this C16th is a pubby gem of dartboards, exposed beams and proper pub seating.

Perfect for when its raining

Perfect for when its dry

We'll be back in Henley on the next leg of the Heart of England Way.   The White Swan - the town's 2nd Good Beer Guide Entry - will be beer tested.

The London Pride at the Three Tuns has set a high bar.

22/09/18 - London Countryway Stage 8 - Horsley to West Byfleet

Distance - 9 Miles
Start - Horsley
Finish - West Byfleet
Geocaches - 4
Pubs - The Anchor - Pyrford Lock and The Station - West Byfleet
Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7

The only question for this month's leg on the London Countryway is whether to go full out mental, following the Dick Bowman 19.9 miles to Sunningdale or a take a more sedate 10 miles on Des De Moor's amble to West Byfleet.

I've got all the time in the world.

I've had a great run on the London Countryway - some stunning walking on the North Downs Way - so I expected a more pedestrian leg was coming.   This is nowhere near as exhilarating but does have plenty of variety and well spaced refreshment stops.   It's still a fine way to spend a damp September Saturday, with more than a hint of Autumn's approach.

Nothing much happens from Horsley through the ancient village of Ockham.  If you've heard of Ockham, it's because you have been reading too much crime fiction.  50% of them mention Ockham's Razor - the theory that the simplest solution is always the most likely - usually just before the most convoluted denouncement imaginable happens.  I'm talking to you, Peter James, with your hijacked helicopters over the streets of Brighton.

Lane walking, some posh gaffs, horses and the Black Swan pub, where the Geocache tells me the locals call it the Mucky Duck.   Of course they do.  It's tradition.

Ockham - Proud of their Philosopher Sons

The Mucky Duck - At 10:45am

Horse fields are left behind for the surprisingly sandy commons of Ockham and Wisley.   Narrow paths disappear into the ferns and there is the accidental stumble into a herd of friendly cows.   The highlight to seek out is Chatley Semaphore Tower - the finest remaining relic of a post Napoleonic Communication line running to the sea.

Operational from 1822 to 1847

Not all the paths on Ockham Common are this broad.

Two commons split by the A3 - Photo style taken from Des

Next, the River Wey navigation needs to be found.   The blog is going to be a tale of bridges, that will bore the casual reader but may be important to anyone thinking of walking the route.

Des points out that Pigeonhouse Bridge was washed away in 2013 storms.  As a simple wooden structure is going to cost £400K (!) to replace, it remains missing to this day.   There is a golfers bridge seconds away, but agreement was not reached to allow right of way access for the casual walker.   Des's instructions detail a diversion to Walsham Lock and a warning not to trespass.

I thought I would check things out on the ground and a series of "Tow Path" diversion signs encourage me to make my way to Pigeonhouse Bridge.   And Joy - since August 2018, agreement has been reached with the golf club and ramblers can use the little footbridge.   And in a twist, the diversions are in place because Walsham Lock appears to be inaccessible.

I didn't read the smallprint on this but the London Countryway can be completed, just as Keith Chesterton expected.

Yellow Sign is old - the new laminates are sending you over....

This strategically placed golfing bridge

Having survived bridge confusion, the Wey Navigation provides easy walking more or less all the way to West Byfleet.   Where you have canals, you have pubs - and the first stop of the day is Hall and Woodhouse's Anchor Inn.

Handy Stopping Point

Good colour.  Headless Badger

Despite its handy location for cyclists, ramblers and anglers, every table - bar the one with the above pint - is setup for fine dining.   How I hate this disregard for the drinker.   The beer had left its head in Dorset but I did make friends with the two blokes crammed around my table - one in waders and one in lycra.

Back into the rain and along the canal into West Byfleet.   Trains are plentiful back to London, so I can take my time and see if the Station breaks the unwritten rule that any pub named after the railway infrastructure is a horror.   It doesn't look much from the outside but cavernous, clean and with a nice little area for drinkers to sit and watch the early game.

The Station - next to the Station

Jamie Redknapp warning me that Meantime IPA is all fancy glassware

Like Des, I am done for the day.   Dick would have merely been half way.

16/09/18 - Packwood House Geocaching

Distance - 4.75 Miles
Geocaches - 25
First Cache


One way of getting publicity and interest in your walking festival is to plant a high volume series of Geocaches along the route.

This is exactly what the guys managing the Millennium Way have done - and one week after the event, 26 geocachers have walked the route.  It's working!

The Millennium Way?  A 100 mile Long Distance Path across the centre of England.  Uniquely, the website details 44 Circular day walks to complete the length.   These walks kept me entertained for 3.5 years and if you're really bored - here's my summary blog.

Packwood House, a 1540s timber farm house, was certainly one of the highlights previously found, so it's no hardship to be heading back on a Sunday Morning to get some smileys in the bag.  Plenty of runners, cyclists and other fans of history are around, so maximum stealth required for cache #1.

Historical Highlight

I struggle with Cache number 2 and the hunt is suspended when I notice 3 ramblers and several dogs approaching.   Trying to look innocent, I am immediately asked to hand over the cache (hello team Sky4lue & WarwickWelsh).  They saw me making the find at number 1, so I'm not as stealthy as I think I am.

8 eyes prove better than 2 and I'll take a find made by others any day.   I leave them to enjoy their walk, bypassing #3 and getting into my caching stride - just as the duck motif is revealed through many caches of the same style.

Quackers Hobby on the Millennium Way

Good progress is made, with no DNF's and some admiration of unique hides.  Pop up caches in a birdhouse, anyone?   At #18, I spy a man in the distance.  I meet up with Dadu13 at #19, where we both struggle to open a clear perspex box.  With a strict "No Sign, No Log" policy, neither of us want to admit defeat. 

Working as a team, we complete the remainder of the round.  Multi-cache Co-ords are shared, along with tweezers and some information that will help when I go back to #3.  It's definitely easier when there's more than one cacher.

A clean sweep of the remainder and we say our goodbyes at the final location of the multi-cache - Dadu heading to the car park and me along Packwood Avenue to leave no gap on the geocaching map.

Packwood Avenue

Thanks to the Millennium Way Team and good luck with the continued promotion of some fine walking.