17/08/26 - On the Trail of...... Eliza Tinsley

West Midlands' Widow

The latest West Midlands History Podcast concentrates on Victorian widows. The central argument is that widowhood was not simply a story of female tragedy and poverty. Although many widows faced extreme hardship, the death of a husband could also fundamentally change a woman's position. In a society where married women were often financially and legally subordinate to their husbands, becoming a widow could give a woman control of property, money, household affairs and, sometimes, a degree of political independence.

They discuss the life of a West Midlands Widow - Eliza Tinsley.

Eliza Butler married Thomas Tinsley in 1839 and they had six children. Their home, The Limes in Sedgley, was built for them shortly before Thomas died in 1851, along with their eldest daughter Elizabeth. Eliza was then widowed and took over the family nail and chain-making business. She expanded it into a major Staffordshire manufacturer, employing around 4,000 people by 1871 and producing nails, chains, rivets and anchors for markets in Britain and overseas. She lived at The Limes until her death in 1882.

Sedgley - the obvious target for a walk and to find what remains on the ground. Getting there might be easier when the tram extension is created. For me it's bus, rail replacement bus, train, train and a 2 mile walk from Coseley station. The walk is through houses, although I do find a medieval lane over Turl's Hill. 

The Limes is the obvious target. The grounds have been donated as a public space. There is a filthy notice board telling the history of the building. Information on that board can be used to plot the co-ordinates of the only Geocache on route.

Italianate Tower no longer present 

Now executive flats

Who need to show as much civic pride as the Victorians

There are other potential locations. The Leopard, a pub owned by the family, is just down the road. Alas, demolished and replaced by Lego houses. Their main factory was at Cradley Heath. But the Victorians were great at celebrating civic success.

Now located in St Andrews Church

And although not her final resting place, a large memorial cross at All Saints Church.

Easy Find

Walk Details

Distance - 4 miles

Geocaches - 1

Walk Inspiration - History West Midlands Podcast

14/07/26 - Rail Trail - Smethwick Galton Bridge to The Hawthorns

Quadruple Inspiration to Find "Sand Well"

A lot going on for a simple walk between two West Midlands Railway Stations.

History West Midlands Podcasts

My monthly listen is the opening podcast about the Black Country, focusing on the post WWII glory years. Full employment, workers rights, massive house building. Setting the boomers up for a life of good luck unavailable to the future generations. 

There is nothing specifically mentioned in terms of people or places to base a walk on. The Bentley Estate in Darlaston a possibility but I doubt it offers much in the way of walking or pubs. The GKN factory in Heath Street long gone. Inspiration was found from the former mining works in Sandwell Valley Country Park. A walk - the Miner's Trail - was found and adapted into the walk.

Sandwell Country Park - a pond hiding former mine works

The real interest here is from a much older age. Three information boards tell all you need to know about the spring that gave the area its name, a priory and a later hall. Only some foundations - and the unattractive, sandbagged spring remain.

Tucked away in Sandwell Valley are the remains of Sandwell Priory, a small Benedictine monastery founded in the late 12th century beside the Sand Well, a natural spring believed to possess healing qualities that gave both the priory and the modern borough their name. Following the priory's closure in 1525, the site later became home to Sandwell Hall, a grand country house built by the Dartmouth family in the early 18th century. Although the hall was demolished in 1928, archaeological excavations have since revealed the foundations of both the medieval priory and the later mansion, allowing visitors to trace more than 700 years of history in a single peaceful corner of the valley.

Priory and Hall Remains

Sandwell, bubbling up

Pub Walks in the Black Country

My next walk from this book is in Sandwell Country Park. Only two miles, and covering the afore-photographed pond, Swan Pond and the priory remains. Two miles cannot justify the public transport costs for a separate visit, so I simply add most of the loop into the walk. And the pub? The Churchfield Tavern, Little Lane is recommended for Banks Bitter and Mild.

Demolished in 2013

From the photo, it looks a mishmash of extensions, with a rather oddly positioned chimney. Research shows that somewhere there was a both a bowling green and a petting zoo for goats, horses and rabbits.

High in the list of google results was Alan Winfield's epic (aren't they always) 1988 pub crawl of West Bromwich. Added to my to-do list to see if anything still remains in this fast changing pub ticking world. 13 pubs are listed, my betting is there are no more than four remaining. 

I will report back.

Dudley Geosites

Sandwell Valley Country Park and Smethwick Galton Bridge are both Dudley Geosite locations. 2 more knocked off.

Rail Trails

Of course, there is no official route from Smethwick Galton Bridge to The Hawthorns. An unofficial one from Railwalks.co.uk is only 1.2 miles (but the next stage is perfect, downloaded and ready to go). It's down to me to work out how to cross the bridge and get to Sandwell Country Park. A decent enough urban walk on properly marked walking/cycling paths. I learn just how close the Vine is to SGB station, which I am sure will come in useful. Handy twirly footbridges allow for safe crossings of dual carriageways and an interesting way to access Dartmouth Park.

SGB, 1829 and once the highest single span bridge in the world. Looks better from the canal below.

A view of Turner's Hill from a twirly footbridge

Dartmouth Park leads to Sandwell Country Park, where Park Lane can be avoided by a parallel, unmarked footpath that avoids death-by-hatchback. Into Handsworth Cemetery, where a handily placed exit leaves you opposite the Hawthorns, stadium, not station.

Proving just how much of a community club West Bromwich Albion are, they offer a lovely Garden of Remembrance. Loved ones' ashes can be left looking at the stadium. It has been my dad's home for the last 11 years.

Of course, I popped in. 

"Gone for a shout"

Walk Details

Distance - 6 miles

Geocaches - 2

Previous Stages on the Wyre Valley Line - Worcester to Droitwich, Droitwich to Hartlebury, Hartlebury to Kidderminster, Kidderminster to Hagley, Hagley to Stourbridge, Stourbridge to Cradley Heath, Cradley Heath to Old Hill, Old Hill to Langley Green, Langley Green to Smethwick Galton Bridge

17/06/26 - Rail Trail - Langley Green to Smethwick Galton Bridge

Back to my roots

A combination of sources for today's walk, which is possibly the most personal one undertaken.

This month's History West Midlands Podcast is about racism in 1960s Smethwick and specifically Malcolm X's 1965 visit to the area. The next leg of my "rail trails" series is between Langley Green and Smethwick.

Peter Griffiths became Smethwick’s Conservative MP in the 1964 general election after running a notoriously racist and anti-immigration campaign, winning against the national trend and displacing Labour’s Patrick Gordon Walker. A few months later, on 12 February 1965, Malcolm X visited Smethwick at the invitation of Avtar Singh Jouhl and the Indian Workers’ Association to see the discrimination faced by Black and Asian residents, including the colour bar at the Blue Gates pub, where he was not served. He described the situation in Smethwick as even worse than America, and his visit became a powerful symbol of international solidarity against racism. Malcolm X was assassinated in New York on 21 February 1965, just nine days after the Smethwick visit.

I was born in Birmingham and spent the first two years in Smethwick. In a street very near and similar to where Malcolm X visited. My parents - white, working class, moved away in 1971. I never heard them be racist but their reasons were "they didn't want their kids to be in the minority at school".

With this as a backdrop - I trace a route between the two stations, taking in key locations to the story and from my life. It's an urban walk - so certainly not pretty.

Mappiman's First House - Remembered only through photos

There's not that many pubs in the area. The first seen, the Merrivale - a burnt-out shell that is bound to be demolished soon. Most in the area are "Desi-Pubs" - a perfect blend of beer and Indian Food, mixed grill platters a speciality. The Old Chapel is a surviving traditional pub and also the oldest non-secular building in Smethwick. Long been of interest, as we drive past it from the Albion. My mom tells me stories of sharing half a cider with my dad, unable to afford a drink each, having mortgaged themselves to the hilt to purchase the two-up, two-down.

I was hoping to visit today, but it appears to be going through a change of ownership. Stonegate has it up for sale and Facebook has an enthusiastic post suggesting a new chapter is starting soon. 

Old Chapel - I can claim a tick from my pram in 1970

Blue Plaque

Lunch and an interlude at Smethwick Heritage Centre in Victoria Park. A tiny room celebrating Smethwick's industrial past and West Bromwich Albion's former glories.

Picnic in a Park

The Red Cow - Peter Griffiths, the Racist MP, used to campaign from there. Now Desi

The Blue Gates - Visited on my Metro Pub Crawl Walk

My acting career died a death before it had chance to flourish. In Smethwick High Street - where I was busy photographing the mosque, I was approached by a film producer who needed white Caucasian males to appear as extras in a movie being shot. Photos taken and paperwork part completed until I asked how long I would be needed for. Alas, shooting was between 2pm and 8pm. I couldn't commit.

A statue to Sikh Soldiers in WW1

Marshall Street - not far from Smethwick Galton Bridge - is the logical conclusion to the day's activities. A blue plaque marking Malcolm X's visit to Smethwick.

A street of terraced houses

Malcolm was here

Walk Details

Distance - 5 miles

Geocaches - 2

Previous Stages on the Wyre Valley Line - Worcester to Droitwich, Droitwich to Hartlebury, Hartlebury to Kidderminster, Kidderminster to Hagley, Hagley to Stourbridge, Stourbridge to Cradley Heath, Cradley Heath to Old Hill, Old Hill to Langley Green

07/05/26 - Dudley Geological Heritage Trail

Rock and (beef and onion) Roll

My latest West Midlands History Podcast is not really suitable for going on a fact-finding walk for. It concerns the improvement in household living in the Black Country home.

I could have gone to the Back to Back Houses in Birmingham, but have already visited. The Black Country Living Museum falls into the same category, but next door is the free Dudley Museum and Art Gallery.

This is the first listing in Black Country Geosites list and there is a Good Beer Guide Tick up for grabs. A day out is possible, although we're going back further in time than the podcast.

Would have more apt

I'll look at plastic dinosaurs, instead

I did manage to get all the leaflets I needed for future Black Country Geo-sites walks. Including a heritage trail around Dudley town centre, where 23 interesting rock locations are highlighted. I enjoyed the statues and priory, Poundland and the Halifax less so.

What retirement holds in store for you

Duncan Edwards - the best statue in town

Priory Park is lovely

Nothing says tourist more than a man struggling to unfurl an A1 sized leaflet in a town centre. And Dudley doesn't get many tourists. It was best that I repaired to the unvisited GBG Tick at the Malt Shovel.

Former Banks

Should you be able to zoom in on the external chalk board - it says they do have Real Ale. Not that this was encouraging my fellow lunchtime drinkers, all on Carling. Comfortable enough and my Pictish Brewing Blue Moon was perfect, even if it was from Rochdale, rather than Scotland, as informed by the bar staff.

A cob lunch, perfect.

A two phase lunch

The Fellows is highlighted on my Google Maps as being part of the Holdens chain, but my spider senses were instantly alerted to this being fake news.

Too smart

Online, its still listed. It serves a perfect Golden Glow. And Holdens scratchings. Yet it has been sold and is now an independent concern.

Lunch - Part 2

A walk back to Tipton Train Station (evidence that the future tram extension may make getting to Dudley slightly easier). Long closed pubs, ruined vans with repossession notices on the smashed windscreens and celebrations of the local celebrities.

The Tipton Slasher

Walk Details

Distance - 6 Miles

Geocaches - 12

Walk Inspiration - West Midlands History Podcast and the Dudley Geological Heritage Trail

17/04/26 - Birmingham Culture

Needless and Peaky

The latest West Midlands History Podcast features the Peaky Blinders. It was only a matter of time. Carl Chinn enthusiastically reminding the listeners that they are not to be glamourised and were simply street thugs. And then going on to glamourise them for the next 30 minutes.

Finding Peaky Blinders locations in Birmingham is a little like shooting fish in a barrel. In fact, an Arthur and/or Tommy mural in a pub has now replaced Alsatians on a flat roof pub as the international measure of roughness. 

Coincidentally, I had just finished a book set in Birmingham and during the same time period, Needless Alley. 

Needless Alley is a crime novel set in 1933 Birmingham. William Garrett, a struggling private detective, makes his living staging divorce “honey traps” with his friend Ronnie Edgerton, an out-of-work actor. Their work brings William into contact with Clara Morton, the unhappy wife of a wealthy fascist, and he falls in love with her. When murder and corruption follow, William is drawn into Birmingham’s criminal underworld and canal-side backstreets.

The main characters are William Garrett, the troubled detective; Ronnie Edgerton, his witty but reckless partner; and Queenie Maggs, Ronnie’s tough, resourceful sister who lives on a narrowboat and knows the canal world better than anyone.

Rather fortuitously, there are walking routes pre-made for both Peaky Blinders and Needless Alley. I am able to just get on with walking, spotting key locations.

Book Title and Location of William's Private Detective Agency 

The Grand Hotel - Trysts between Clara and William

Art Gallery and Museum - William and Clara's first date

Gas Street Basin - Queenie lives on a Barge

Jon Jones Mural in Hill Street for the launch of the Peaky Blinders Film

Electric Cinema (looking increasingly sad) - Where William watched Marlene Dietrich movies 

A refreshment interlude. William often meets Ronnie in the White Swan, Digbeth. Last month, I visited this rough and ready pub by error, confusing it for the recently renovated and reopened Anchor.

It's not too surprising a mistake to make. Both pubs were built by the same firm - James and Lister Lea - share the same terracotta brick style and are located on the same street. In the interests of variety, I make the Anchor my port of call. 

An added incentive - the best track on Katherine Priddy's new album, Hurricane, was filmed there.

It's good to have the Anchor back. A Tardis-like multi-roomer, which cries out to be explored. And the chance of a first Bass of the year. Permanently on, Quinno.

Very similar to the White Swan

The light didn't work for the reverse photo

That dog was in the White Swan last month

The Peaky Blinder walk would have had me drinking in the Rainbow. The first mention of the Peaky Blinders in print. Carl Chinn explains;

“An ‘inoffensive chap’ called George Eastwood had been drinking in the Rainbow pub on the corner of High Street, Deritend and Adderley Street. The teetotaller was picked on by three hard men on the evening of March 23, 1890 – and all because he had a non-alcoholic drink. There is a bit of a row, but it dies down. Later, at about 11pm, George decides to go home. The hard men had already gone, so he must have thought it was safe – but as he was walking underneath the Adderley Street viaduct, he hears them shouting at him and then they brutally assault him under one of these two viaducts. One on the attackers was a chap called Thomas Mucklow, another was called Groom. The identity of the third man is still unknown. Groom punched George before they all started kicking with their boots along the street. And then Groom took off his heavy leather belt – these had thick brass buckles and they would wrap it around their wrist and leave about eight inches free, buckle it together and they would slash! Poor old George took so many beatings from the belt and the kicking and the punch that he was in hospital for three weeks. On the Monday night, the Birmingham Mail reported that this brutal assault was carried out by the gang of Peaky Blinders. It was the first time – March 1890 – that the term ‘Peaky Blinders’ had appeared in print.”

This would have been interesting for the walk - but unfortunately, the pub keeps night-time opening hours only.

The Rainbow - looking better during yesteryear

The back streets of Digbeth providing Peaky Blinder menace and the occasional artwork reminders. Montague Street, with the best mural of the day.

King of the Blinders - part of a much bigger art work

Not Peaky at all

Walk Details

Distance - 4.75 Miles

Geocaches - 4

Walk Inspiration - History WM Podcast and The Book Trail

31/03/26 - A Tardebigge Circuit

Indecipherable Place Name

I knew that the latest West Midlands History Podcast would provide plenty of potential walk inspiration. Mike Jenkins talks about his new book - The History of Place Names in England and Worcestershire. A £5 visit to Amazon and my Kindle will now be able to bore blogfans through a whole new avenue. Skirting the book and listening to the Podcast, my mind was soon made up that the walk would be from Tardebigge.

Unique as the only village in the land that has belonged to three counties (Staffordshire, Warwickshire and now Worcestershire) its also the only place that Mike (and other experts) cannot decode it's naming roots.

After a long discussion of potential options, Mike concludes;

However, most toponymists seem to agree this this is one of those place names which remains obscure and has even been postulated to be related to a pre-Celtic, possibly an Old European (pre-Indo-European) language! If true, this would mean the name originates from at least 3,000 to 4,000 years ago!

We borrow a couple of dogs and park at the impressive church, situated on high ground. I couldn't even find the main door to tell you if its "Doors Open" or not.

Tardebigge Church

And its position on a high ridge

This circular walk is outbound on lanes, along the Monarch's Way. Not many cars to avoid but they are 100% Land Rovers. The Joneses' keep up with each other in these parts.

Borrowed dog, Sam, shows the way through Stoke Cross

Some empty agricultural fields to pick up the Birmingham-Worcester canal, following it up along the famous flight of locks back to the church.

Happy Mrs M and Sam with-guide-dog-in-training, Ian - we don't name them

Celebrating the end of the flight

A perfect walk for dogs - no stiles, off-lead frolicking and plenty of sniffing interest.

Less so for humans. No tea shops, let alone a pub.

Walk Details

Distance - 5 Miles

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration - 100 Walks in Hereford and Worcestershire, Walk 61 

14/02/26 - British Camp

On the Trail of Sir Edward Elgar..... Again

It was always the plan to follow up my first Elgar inspired walk. British Camp - a ramparted hill fort - provided the inspiration for the cantata, Caractacus. I've listened to it.... once.... it goes on a bit.

British Camp has long been linked by local folklore to the last stand of the British chieftain Caractacus against the Romans, even though historians now doubt the battle took place there; the dramatic Iron Age ramparts and sweeping views made it easy for Victorian imagination to place a heroic resistance on its summit. That legend inspired Edward Elgar, who grew up walking the Malvern Hills and in 1898 composed the cantata Caractacus, portraying the gathering of the tribes, their defeat by Rome, and Caractacus’s noble dignity in captivity, turning the hills into a musical symbol of ancient Britain, loss, and quiet heroism.

Public transport options to British Camp are limited to summertime at the weekend. Driving would normally pass St Wulstan's Church - Elgar's final resting place. However, long-term road closures send you around the western side of the Malverns, on pot-holed roads, where the expected sunshine had led to post-walk gridlock. I planned to stop for a photo of a place, previously visited. Circumstance dictates that I lift an image from the Internet.

I chose the route from Juile Royle's Worcester News book. Malvern has myriad footpaths - both official and unofficial, map-marked and waiting to be found. The hand-drawn map is of limited value and mistakes were made. Lost in Gullet Wood. Missing out Hollybush through misreading the instructions.

Pick the bones out of that!

Our plan was to use the 24-hour escape from the relentlessly brutal rain and avoid muddy paths and flooded fields. The first half of the walk was a success - British Camp, Millennium Hill and Hangman's hill leaving our boots unscathed.

Ramparts clearly identifiable 

Happy Days on British Camp

The return was on the lower common land - and was of course a filthy mud pit.  It could almost put you off walking for life. Escaping the mud leads to a stiff climb along the side of British Camp Reservoir.

Options to try and improve morale? The café? The bar at Malvern Hills Hotel? We are nothing if not creatures of habit.

A short but tricky drive to the Nag's Head. The finest pub in the land.

Sheep on Berrow Downs

A stiff climb up the side of British Camp Reservoir

Walk Details

Distance - 4.5 Miles

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration - Julie Royle's Worcestershire Walks, Walk 42