13/04/19 - Inn Way to Peak District Summary

Distance of the Inn Way to the Peak District - 89
Days completed in - 6
Pubs Visited - 31 visited out of the 51 promised in the guide.  Just a handful closed down permanently and several not open on Monday/Tuesday.   Three Stag Heads in Wardlow Mires only open at weekends - and that looked a real experience (see day 4)
Geocaches - 49
Timeframe - 08/04/19 to 13/04/19
Previous Inn Way Summaries - Yorkshire Dales, Lake District and North Yorkshire Moors.



My fourth annual Inn Way and I struck lucky.   Its the weather that can make or break these trips and I had a full week of blue skies and the only drop of water to land on my head was in the Monsal Tunnel.

I could have saved weight in the Osprey by ditching the waterproofs.

The walking on this route is spectacular and provides a great feel for the area - the wild edges of Stanage, Curbar and Froggatt, the gentle Country Houses and then the magnificence of the Hope Valley.   Absolutely terrific walking.

It also felt a lot less isolated than previous Inn Ways - especially last years North Yorkshire Moors.  The nightly locations had multiple entertainment options - including twin chipper Tideswell and the pub crawl that can easily be fashioned from a night in Castleton.

A wonderful experience.

As with all undertakings - there needs to be a roll of honour.

Best Walk - Day 3 - Just gets better and better - Complete Lathkill Dale, drop down to the River Wye and then climb for stunning views over the Monsal Trail.
Best Pub - Day 2 - The Bulls Head, Youlgrave.   A Tuesday night and it felt like the entire community had come out.  Football was on the TV, the darts team were preparing for a tricky away game and various other tourists were dining in the back room.   Proper pub banter.
Best Pint - Day 4 - Theakston Best Bitter at the Peak Hotel, Castleton.   Up untill Castleton, the beer was middling.   Castleton addressed this, with every pub offering high quality product.   Price range over the week £3.30 (Cock and Pullettt, Sheldon) to £5.40 (Peacock, Rowsley).
Best Meal - Day 6 - Unusually, no pies were harmed in the production of this walk.   Apart from a lunchtime Pork Pie in Eyam.   Once again, few menus offered anything exotic, so I was delighted with the last day Balti at Sangams in Hathersage.
Advice - I chose to not follow the order in the book and start at Hathersage - where there is a train station or long term parking available if you book a ticket on line from the Derbyshire Dales website.  No issues with accommodation. 

Each leg of the walk has been detailed on a separate blog, available at the link;

Day 1 - Hathersage to Baslow - 13 Miles
Day 2 - Baslow to Yougrave - 12 Miles
Day 3 - Youlgrave to Tideswell - 16 Miles
Day 4 - Tideswell to Castleton - 15 Miles
Day 5 - Castleton to Hayfield - 12 Miles
Day 6 - Hayfield to Hathersage - 18 Miles

The Photo Album on Flickr

13/04/19 - Day 6 - Inn Way to Peak District - Hayfield to Hathersage

Start - Hayfield
Finish - Hathersage
Distance -  18 Miles
Key Features - Snake Path, Kinder Reservoir, William Clough, Winhill Pike
Geocaches - 15
Pubs - 4 Visited, 7 Available
Previous Days - Day 1, Day 2, Day 3, Day 4, Day 5


So this is it.  Another year's adventure comes to an end.   An end of waking up and only having to concentrate on the next Full English Breakfast, pint and putting one foot in front of another.

You may remember from Day 1 that I've started slightly out of sync.   This walk is the first in the book but my final day.   Its also the longest - 18 miles in store for today.

But there is method in my madness.   As well as the transport benefits, this leg provides a summary of most of the walk, where you can see the edges and the Hope valley for a final reminder.   Besides, if you did 18 miles on day 1, you may be in danger of never starting day 2.

Leaving Hayfield, a couple of signs remind us of the Mass Trespass that opened up the countryside to Ramblers and the house where Captain Mainwaring was born.

Is it wise to walk 18 miles on the last day?

Mass Trespass

Snake Path gently rises out of Hathersage, overlooking Kinder Reservoir and providing access to the first big climb of the day, up along William Clough.   I've been worried about the distance, but paid no attention to the elevation.   Best part of 3000ft is climbed.

Snake Path

Overlooking Kinder Reservoir

At the top of William Clough, most people are turning right to conquer Kinder Downfall and embark on a fruitless search for Kinder Scout's highest point.   I press on, further north then west to walk through the wilds of Black Ashop Moor.

The terrain reminds of something out of Game of Thrones.   This blog has taken so long, that I still haven't had time to catch up of S8S1.

The Wilds of Black Ashop Moor

Another good point about saving today to the end is that this is the only time I get slightly dirty during the week.   Some serious peat bogs and black earth to navigate.  I dread to think what its like after inclement weather.

A good three mile yomp, where I bump into hopelessly lost Duke of Edinburgh's who should be on the Pennine Way.   I'm able to direct to where this path will intersect with where they need to be and reassure them that their mistake has probably saved them a couple of miles.

Saukin Ridge, after the lost DoE

My route climbs higher than the famous Snake Pass Inn, which hides itself away in the trees, should I have been tempted to divert.   A Roman road takes me to Blackey Hey for the 2nd climb of the day.  The views are mainly behind me.

Where I have been walking

A significant series of Geocaches at the top of Woodlands Valley, overlooking Ladybower, takes my mind of the walking.  Fine views over the Hope Valley and the omnipresent Castleton works comes into view yet again.

I'm just about done in when Winpike Crag is reached.   The end is near.

Go on, have another climb

A very steep drop down into Bamford, where only one of the two pubs remain.   The Anglers is in the Good Beer Guide 2019 and has been rescued by the community.   Pick the wrong door and you end up in the Post Office.   The barman selling me my Chatsword Gold was most interested in how far I had come.

Rescued by the community

Said Barman assures me its only 2 miles to Hathersage and all downhill.    He's half correct but a couple more agricultural climbs are in required.   The village comes into view and somewhere down below is my final bed for the night, the YHA.   At 49, I wonder if I will be the youngest resident again.

The Inn Way to the Peak District is Complete

After checking in, showering and having rescued celebration glad rags from the car, I have just a few more pubs to tick off.

And a summary blog to complete.

Nearest the YHA is the George Hotel.   Now, I keep a record of my pub visits on www.pubsgalore.com and the last review there was from the legendary 20 in a day pubcrawler, the late and great Alan Winfield.   I'll just nick his one star rating, as I couldn't agree more

Alan Winfield left this review about George Hotel
The George is a decent looking pub on the outside but once you get inside things go downhill fast its been completely stripped out with pine floors and modern decor 90% of the pub is laid out for diners but nobody was eating as I was the only customer there was a small bar area in the corner that sold crap beer in the shape of Boddingtons smooth flow,this isnt a pub for locals or normal drinkers don't bother with this place.

On 10th May 2010 - rating: 1

RIP Alan.   Nothings changed in the last nine years, although they've probably replaced the Boddies.

He was happier with the Little John over the road, where I found yet another new brewery - the Welbeck Abbey.   Decent enough locals pubs, with separate pool room and charming locals.

The Night has fallen on Little Johns

Having mainly been fruitless in my search for spicy food all week, I can confirm that Hathersage contains two Indian Restaurants.   It might have my forced abstinence but Sangams provided one of the best Baltis I have ever had.   And I used to work in Sparkhill.

A new cocktail bar called the Bank can be added to the list of hostelries but the final one in the guide is the Scotsmans Pack.    Walked past 6 whole days ago. 

Marstons Pedigree becomes the final pint of this years Inn Way.   I didn't find Little Johns Chair, as the only space was at the bar.

Dodgy photo but its been a long week

I'll be back next year for my final Inn Way. 

Northumberland awaits.

12/04/19 - Day 5 - Inn Way to Peak District - Castleton to Hayfield

Start - Castleton
Finish - Hayfield
Distance -  12 Miles
Key Features - Cave Dale, Peveril Castle, Mam Tor, Great Ridge, Jacobs Ladder
Geocaches - 6
Pubs - 5 Visited, 6 Available
Previous Days - Day 1, Day 2, Day 3, Day 4



Final 2 days on the Inn Way and I know the walking starts to get serious.  Today, I am aware that I have to climb Mam Tor and Jacobs Ladder.   Both have been previously completed but on separate hikes.   Tomorrow, it's an 18 mile finale.

It's a wonderful start (as always).   A last look at Castleton, a place I kind of fell in love with, and find the correct path to Cave Dale and get up close to Peveril Castle.

How was your Friday Morning?

The rear of Peveril Castle

Peveril Castle on the Limestone Way

The Limestone Way is left behind on Bradwell Moor, as I head North West on an arrow straight road.   The obvious prize in the far distance is Mam Tor.   The is a short pull up and I'm on the Great Ridge, following it all the way to Hollins Cross.   Photo opportunities are endless on a clear day.  I have been so lucky with the weather.

Put the GPS Away and head for the lump ahead

The Great Ridge - Views in all direction.

2 pub Edale is the downhill prize and out of the two, I'll take the Old Nags Head.   Hiker's Bar and the official start of the Pennine Way seems more suited to my needs.

I could lie and say I'm off to Kirk Yetholm

Surprisingly quiet at midday, with a family who had already started lunch.   I'll remember it as being cold.   The room was freezing, but the judging by the Black Sheep, the cellar must be an ice room.

Still, I'm fortified to do the first couple of miles on the Pennine Way and prepare for Jacobs Ladder.

All Uphill for a bit

It was nothing to worry about.   And what goes up, must come down.   A long, gentle descent into Hayfield over Oaken Clough.

Looking back over Oaken Clough 

The first pub in Hayfield is the Sportsman - a stiff climb up some steps.   I check with the local exercising their dog in the stream that it will be open at 4pm, before a potentially fruitless ascent.

Adding Thwaites to my list of breweries on the Inn Way

Into town proper to find my digs for tonight.   Another joy of these Inn Ways is staying at coaching houses with centuries of history.   You cannot help but wonder about the lives of other guests that have staying their during a 450 year history.

And their mode of transport more aesthetically pleasing than a red trannie

This is a Marstons pub and I have a road to Damascus experience.   Pedigree Bitter, if kept well, is an absolute joy of a pint.   I was amazed, I always thought it smelled of eggs.

Plenty of time for a rest and put on whatever glad rags I can find in the Osprey before investigating the final three.

The Kinder Lodge is the wrong side of A624 Tracks.   The last time I was in here was when Andy Murray won Wimbledon for the first time.  They were serving strawberries and cream and it was all so civil.

Tonight, there's a handful of colorful locals getting down to Digital Gold, playing 60s music far too loud.   The most refreshed announces its time to leave and puts on his rucksack.   Inquiries from the others as to what was contained within are met with "my escort".   We failed to determine if this was his partner, a car or a magazine before he fessed up and said 6 cans of Stella Artois.

That's breakfast sorted.

A change of Modus Operandi since Andy Murrays Success

The great thing about the British Pub is how they are open to all walks of life and can be wildly different.  I'm off to the Pack Horse now, a pub that I had read was full of wannabie nouveau riche.

I'm not going to argue with their pub furniture though.   I sank that deep into a blood red chesterfield sofa that its a wonder I am not there still.

Bad Early Evening Photo of a Gastropub - Contains Theakstons

From this vantage point, I can do nothing but over hear the conversation of 5 yuppies (does Derbyshire have yuppies) with 3 dogs, none on leads.   The loudest is moaning about the problems he is having with his new BMW 5 Series syncing with Spotify running on Android and how he has taken it back to the dealers.

I would have inwardly groaned, muttered an obscenity about first world problems but I needed to know the answer. 

I have exactly the same problem.

Alas, I will forever be pulling into laybys wishing I had an iPhone.  Just as a potential solution was being revealed, the big chocolate labrador got excited by an incoming collie, swished his tail and sent their pints flying.   His owner went to get mops and replacement pints and the dog escaped into the dining room, to attempt to steal food from the diners' plates.

He was told to put his dog on a lead in the most politest of fashions.

To complete the set, I pop into the Royal Hotel on my way home.   No such dramas in here, but the collies owner has followed me in, saying he was after some peace and quiet.

Another old coaching house with many original features and more Stancill Brewery wares to test, this time a Jaxon Brew number 1.

Royal Hotel by Night

11/04/19 - Day 4 - Inn Way to Peak District - Castleton Pubs

Walk During the Day
Pubs - 5
Good Beer Guide Tick - 379

A whopping 12 pubs are available on day 4 of the Inn Way to the Peak District.   I blogged about the 7 that I passed during the walk in link detailed at the top of this report.

That still leaves the 5 in Castleton itself to detail, including for the first time on this journey, an entry in the Good Beer Guide 2019.

Which is interesting, as up to now, the pubs have been "middling".   Far more Greene Kings than I was expecting and so far, I have managed to keep the variety high, with different breweries and beers taken, where possible.

Castleton itself is an absolute joy.   Crammed with history, interesting buildings and 5 pubs in very close proximity.   An initial tour was required to find out if anything was on any menu that didn't involve meat and potatoes. 

But we start at the Peak Hotel for pint of the week.  A beautiful presented Theakstons Best Bitter.

A rambling pub, with plenty of room but nothing spicy on the menu.

Meat and Potato Food Served Every Day - Pint of the Week

I am starving by now, so in the interests of time, I complete a circuit of the remaining pubs.  Most have their menus proudly displayed outside.  I should have stuck with the 1st - Ye Olde Nags Head has Thai Red Curry.   My tastebuds tingle with joy.

C17th Pub - C21st Good Beer Guide Tick

I managed to blag pride of place in front of the Georgian hob grate fireplace, discovering yet another new brewery, Kelham, and their perfect wares.  Worthy of their place in the 2019 Good Beer Guide

Fed, and some would say, watered, I have to tick off the rest.   I don't know when I'll be back and so far, this has been easily the best kept beer.

The George is closer to the Castle than the Castle.  A very nice pub, where the only place to sit was at the bar.   Black Sheep, in front of the fire decorated with suit of arms and a couple of swords for if the pub quiz gets tasty.

Bad Dusk Photo but does show the Castle's proximity to Peveril Castle

More Black Sheep at the Castle, also C17th but with a more modern makeover.  Brightly lit and with a bit of furniture relocation, I could get a high stool next to the fire.   I've had blue skies in the day but very cold evenings of below zero temperatures.

Friendly locals, some of whom had never been to London, others who had never been to Hayfield - tomorrows destination and all of 12 miles away.

Evening Falls on Castleton

A Robinson Pub next.   No trip North is complete without one.   Huge pub, but I think the diners had gone home, as it was mainly empty.    The Unicorn was in perfect condition.

Bulls Head - Just add punters

Finally, a night cap of Acorn Brewery Barnsley Bitter at Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese.   The Good Beer Guide details a pub with this name in nearby Hope and until I checked Google Maps, I though I might be getting 2 Good Beer Ticks.

This is a fantastic pub - dating from 1660, with a list of previous landlords tenureship detailed across low beams.

It's also my room for the night - a single room, where I can leap from the shower onto my bed with minimal effort.

Once again, an honour to be staying somewhere with such history.

My room - above the first Arch over to the right

Best location of the week.   I will return.

11/04/19 - Day 4 - Inn Way to Peak District - Tideswell to Castleton

Start - Tideswell
Finish - Castleton
Distance - 15 Miles
Key Features - Cressbrook Dale, Eyam, Hope
Geocaches - 11
Pubs - 12 potential, 8 Visited.
Previous Days - Day 1, Day 2, Day 3


Tideswell Church, adjacent to my digs, proclaims itself the Cathedral of the Peak by ringing the bells at 6am to wake everyone up and then bonging every 15 mins to make sure they don't snooze.

Unfortunately, the front door at the George is alarmed until 8:30.

This provides plenty of time to get excited about today's walk.   I've been wanting to visit Eyam for years, having read about the Plague stories and it's unique history.

Turns out Castleton was the place to get most excited about.

The George did not include breakfast, so I thought on day 4, I would skip the usual Full English.  Tasty provisions bought from the bakers for lunch.   I've never been told to keep a pork pie upright before.   Apparently, the jelly hadn't quite set.

Off I set, with the promise of another gloriously sunny day.

Road Walking to Litton

There's a lot of early doors pubs here - so with much regret, I have to walk past some absolute belters today.   From each end of the scale.

The Red Lion in Litton and the Bulls Head in Foolow looked classic examples of the Village Inn.  Saved for another day as it wasn't even 10am when I passed the furthest.

Beaut 1, passed by before 9am

Beaut 2 in the lovely village of Foolow

Then there's the Three Stag Heads in Wardlow Mires.   A place that sounds ominous enough on its own.   There's a farm, a cafe and a the pub, which only opens on weekends.   There was a poll on Twitter whilst I was away asking the question "what is the best pub in the land?".   And this place was nominated by enough people that it was only beaten by the Great Western in Wolverhampton.

Was going to be the pub in the film Hostel, but deemed too terrifying

There's obviously been an accident out front, but lets take a closer look at the signage.

Entice People in or Warn them Off?

Looked utterly fascinating and I feel I am missing out by not seeing the inside.

Enough of too early pubs.   The walkings up to its expected phenomenal quality.   First, I have another dale - Cressbrook Dale to traverse, followed by field systems all the way into Eyam.

Cressbrook Dale

I'm into Eyam at 11am.   Too early for the midday opening Miners Arms, but I will hang around.  I sit on a bench opposite Eyam Hall and start on the pork pie, sharing the green with a party of primary school kids.

A look around the plague cottages and then first in the pub to sample the local breweries, aptly enough called quarantine.

Still inhabited - they must like people looking through their windows

Miners Arms - Eyam

There's always a roll call of winners on these trips and this Greene King is at the opposite end of the scale.  Pint probably hadn't been pulled through as I doubt it was meant to look as it did.

I'll admit to not being in the best of moods as I climbed out of Eyam but blues instantly banished when I get to the top of Eyam Moor, beating some pensioners to a bench and having the most amazing vista.

And after three days walking - I can see Stanage Edge - where I started.

Panoramic Setting on Camera

Back to the Beginning

A fine afternoon walking progresses.   Through the hamlet of Abney and ignoring all signs to Shatton, for obvious reasons.   I pick up a Geocache Trail and once again wonder if they tried to build the Cement Works now, would they get planning permission?

End of the Hope Valley

Before Castleton, I have Brough and Hope to work my way through, with three pubs that you'd expect to be open.

Inexplicably, the Traveler's Rest was closed.  I tried every door.

The Old Hall Hope - beautiful Theakstons Best Bitter

The not so great Woodroffe Arms for San Miguel

I really should have stayed in the Old Hall.   Everything I want in a pub.

2 more miles to do get to Castleton, a place previously unvisited but became my favourite place on the walk.   The five pubs that will be subject of another blog had nothing to do with this.

2 Miles on the Hope Valley Floor to get to Castleton - A Wonderful Place

10/04/19 - Day 3 - Inn Way to Peak District - Youlgrave to Tideswell

Start - Youlgrave
Finish - Tideswell
Distance - 16 Miles
Key Features - Lathkill Dale, Monsal Trail, Tideswell Dale
Geocaches - 6
Pubs - 6 available, 5 visited.
Previous Days - Day 1, Day 2


If I am ever doubt as to why I undertake these solo adventures, confirmation is provided on a walk like this.

Day 3 of the Inn Way is an absolute joy from beginning to end.

After breakfast, where we have the winner of skinniest sausage of the week, I leave Youlgrave behind, lane walking to Alport to pick up Lathkill Dale.

Didn't score highly on RateMyBreakfast - where are the beans?  Ugly Mushrooms

Never heard of Lathkill before, but what a location.   Starts off gently enough along the crystal clear stream, passing mine workings and then into a spectacular gorge with overhanging crags.

Thought it would be a gentle river walk

And then it spectacularly turned into this 

Tremendous stuff which takes me most of the morning but still too early for Monyash's Bulls Head.  There's a licenced cafe next door and I surprise myself by having a mug of tea.   I know that Sheldon is not too far away, even if the most direct route is not taken.   We have the well preserved ruins of Magpie Lead Mine to investigate first.

Isolated and free to wander around

There's usually a pub with a comedy name winner on these Inn Way's.   No contest on the Lake District, where my childish walking partner asked every local in Broughton "how far is the Black Cock Inn?".   He would have probably spontaneously combusted if he had been with me for the Cock and Pullet.

The Cock and Pullett

After yesterday's £4.85, it was a delight to be paying £3.30 for my Timothy Taylor Landlord.  Winner of cheapest pint of the Inn Way. 

Some field systems to navigate.   Not as easy as it sounds - they either have complex steps to get over high walls or gaps in the wall that are a stuggle for a man with a 70l Osprey Rucksack attached to squeeze through.

Who is this man and why does he struggle at the walls?

I thought this morning was superb but it just keeps on delivering.   A steep descent and terrifying crossing of the A6 (who puts the crossing at a bend?) and I am along the banks of the river Wye.  The river is left behind at the weir for a climb through the trees.

River Wye

The Reward for all this effort?   The best view of the whole week and the Stables Bar at the Monsal Head Hotel.

View from a Beer Garden

Stables Bar

Stables Bar provided another new Brewery - The Penine Brewing Co for a Monsal Gold.   More free range kids having a dancing competition.   Don't they know there is an ice cream van outside?

Easy to see where I am going next.   A drop to the valley floor to pick up the Monsal Trail - a former railway line.   The guide suggests that I avoid the tunnels but it shaves a bit of distance off and lets face it, it's quite exciting.   The only time a drop of water landed on my head all week.

Drip Drip Drip in the Tunnel

With a nice bit of symmetry, Tideswell Dale ends the ramble.  It never quite hits the height of Lathkill but provides pleasant walking for me to reach my bed for the night.

Another Derbyshire Dale

There's a big game on the BT Sports tonight, with Manchester Utd playing Barcelona - so I need to see if any of the pubs can provide entertainment.   I've already made my mind up about tea - a budget meal from one of the two chippers in town.

The Horse and Jockey is first discovered on the edge of town.  Inquiries show they are the only pub to have the football on but this is limited to Sky.   Looks like I'll be following the match on Twitter.

Huge Pub providing Stancill Brewery Stainless but no Lionel Messi

Tideswell is also famous for the church - the Cathedral of the Peak - and we'll talk about their bells tomorrow.   It's right next to the George.

My room is above the G

A standard Greene King where the most promising choice was Birra Moretti.

Fish and Chips and an investigation of the final boozer in town - the Star.   A very traditional locals pub with a strange triangular bar serving three rooms.   The barman always seemed to have his back turned to the next customer.

The Star - where Stella Artois was the best drink available

Fed, watered and tired after the second longest walk of the week - I retire early.

But not until I confirm that Utd have it all to do in the Nou Camp next Tuesday.