02/12/24 - The Chequers, Ticknall

Peaky Blinders, The Movie

Breaking up a journey to the North. We'll come to the debate I had on Facebook about sparklers on a later blog, but its probably wise to firstly define the North.

Geography

Monday Lunch time - what will we find open for post walk refreshment? The Guide Book's choice was The Wheel Inn. Alan Winfields PuG review giving it a mere five stars. And he loved pubs.

A lot can happen in 14 years since AF crossed the threshold

Believe it or not, it has only actually been closed since August 2020. Stars Pubs and Bars are indicating that they will bring this mid C18th Century pub back to life if they can find a tenant. 

I already knew it was closed but my research did not go as far as spotting that the Staff of Life doesn't open on Mondays. 

Looking like it could be one of those days!

Thank the lord for the Chequers... and what a set of opening hours.

Gap in the Market Spotted!  All day Monday!

Our walk was as enjoyable as you could hope for on a driech day.  A geocache laden march around Calke Abbey and Staunton Harold Reservoir.

Calke Abbey under Scaffold

 

Honestly, this was the best reservoir shot I managed

Calke abbey is National Trust owned and we couldn't believe how many visitors they had by the cars we spotted in the distance. As we got closer, we realised the vehicles were actually trucks. When we reached the buildings, we could see lots of signs to catering tents and bouncers at strategic locations. On entry, our friendly bouncer would only confirm that filming was taking place but was not allowed to divulge on what.

Give Mrs M a mince pie, coffee and a little bit of WiFi and she can provide the answer to anything.

They're still wringing a dollar out of the Peaky Blinder franchise, despite everyone in Birmingham being sick to death with the murals and every pub town in Great Britain, sick to death of the endless themed pub crawls. Men in flat caps on Madri making us all shudder.

Mrs M working out this is the closest she will ever be to Cillian Murphy

Back to the proper refreshment at the Chequers and what a joy it was.

Through the door and finding a free table is impossible due to the coal fire instantly steaming my glasses. It is beyond packed. The banter is top drawer. We have discovered Monday Beer Club, after I ask "is there nothing else to do in Ticknall?"

Bass, a superb ham cob and plenty of conversation.

Unexpectedly, one of the best pub visits of the year.

Bass, not Madri - should have waited to show you the cob!

Walk Details

Distance - 6.25 Miles

Geocaches - 14

Walk Inspiration - Pub Walks in Derbyshire, Walk 28

24/09/21 - Three Stags Heads at Wardlow Mires

Distance - 5 Miles

Walk Inspiration - Half Day Walks in the The Peak District, South East - Walk 2

Good Beer Guide Pub - #711

The Three Stags Heads. Seen it eulogised many times on Social Media. I've walked past it mid week when completing the Inn Way to The Peak District. It only opens on weekends.  Four years later, I find myself close enough to warrant a re-visit.

A suitable walk is found to work up a thirst.

And what a fine walk it was.

A footpath runs next to the pub and I'm out in ancient field systems, separated by dry stone walls.  A navigational error (muscle memory took me on the same route as the Inn Way) takes me to the charming village of Foolow.  A chance for pub archaeology in Wardlow village - where the OS Map shows the big blue cup of joy, but I failed to spot the building that was the Bulls Head. Closed in 2003 and now a private house.

The real highlight are the upper reaches of Cressbrook Dale.  An isolated, dry valley that is the subject of a campaign to save it.  From the creation of a hippy colony (with Yurts), led by a former Dragon's Den Presenter, according to the pub patrons.

Looking back to the Three Stags

Foolow Duck Pond

Looking over Cressbrook Dale - before the hippies come

The exit from the dale leads directly to the front door of the pub.

I commented last time that it looks rather foreboding. Not sure if the loss of one of the Stags Head makes it even more sinister. I am assured that it was kept following a storm and will be replaced.

Two Stags Heads

The Sign on the Door

The frisson of tension you get from entering a new pub is enhanced by a sticking front door, where I try and navigate the lock mechanism to cries of "Push Down Harder".  How badly do I want this pint?

Same answer as usual, very.

Take stock of my surroundings. Small front bar, with low ceiling and massive fire range. Rustic, farmhouse furniture on flag-stone floors.  Rabbit with a shotgun.  Man (who turns out to be the landlord) sat down, sharpening a bayonet with a whetstone.

The rear "music" room.

2nd thoughts, it could be a hare

I'm soon made to feel welcome.  Bar lady explains the campaign to save Cressbrook Dale.  Two other patrons give me marriage advice.  You can be married or happy, but not both.  Bayonet man re-sheathes his weapon and delights me with cheese scones.

Not Chicken McNuggets

Abbeydale Brewery produce a beer just for this venue. A stout called "Black Lurcher". My two drinking chums were drinking it from pewter tankards.

I think I made the correct decision to go for a more sedate Deception from the same brewery.  

The Lurcher comes in at a powerful 7.5%.  

I strectched out my drink to get the maximum time to soak up the unique atmosphere. I understand that a follow up to American Gods by Neil Gaimen - Black Dogs - is set partly in this pub.

I have added it to my Goodreads ToBeRead pile. Will it have savoury snacks in the plot?

23/09/22 - The Good Beer Guide Pubs of Matlock

Pubs - 4 

Good Beer Guide Ticks - #707 - 710

Having walked 1775ft up High Tor, High Junction Peak and the Heights of Abraham, the uphill schlep to the Thorn Tree Inn is the last thing one needs. Matlock is that sort of town. If you are not going up, you are going down.

Initial disappointment that it is a Greene King pub quickly evaporated.  Two absolute classics on cask - Landlord and Proper Job, good community banter and views across the Derwent Valley, allowing me to assess what was previously conquered on foot.

Greene King on a Hill

All that choice, and the bar hangers go Carling

Fine views - both of Landlord and Riber Castle

Solo drinking eavesdropping.  Good to hear talk of "Dead Man's Shoes".  This Paddy Considine revenge thriller is the main reason I am here.  Inadvertently, like some kind of fan-boy, I am wearing a near identical military style jacket to his characters.  

Downhill, following the crowds to Farmacy. Its busy inside and out, with a very drunken man in a cap and sliders is taking it on himself to apologise to every patron and then offering them a drink.  I'd just got my own - not knowing about Aldwark Artisasn Ales for which they are a tap room and selecting an ABK Helles.  I never found out what he was apologising for, but he was refused service to fulfill his offer to others.

Slider-Man relaxing outside after offering strangers drinks

MicroPub Action

Next on the list is just over the road.  If Farmarcy is a micro converted from a chemists, you can guess what the Newsroom used to be.

Former news-agency at night

More appealing inside

Part Micro, part off-licence, as you can see from the shelves.

On the chalkboard, the New Bristol Brewery, Twice Upon a Time IPA took my fancy. Coming in at a whopping 8.5%, I decided to go conservative with a 2/3rds.  I am in a micro, after all.  Normal rules do not apply.  

The barman was having a froth related disaster. I knew he was in trouble when the big spoon came out and by the time I got to a quiet table, the liquid was just up to the half line mark on the glass.  But what a delicious half it was. I was straight back up and thinking I would be short changed again, went for a full pint.  I wasn't.

Which probably explains the reason for my lack of memory of the final micro of the night, Twenty Ten.

Answers on a post card as to what this shop used to be

Not much going on...  England were in the final stages of being beaten again without scoring a goal from open play.  There was Deya Steady Rolling Man.  There nearly always is Deya Steady Rolling Man.

Your Twenty Ten Choices

A decent night work and great to see everywhere so busy.

23/09/22 - Giddy Edge, High Tor, Riber Castle and the Heights of Abraham

Distance - 10 Miles

Geocaches - 5 Traditional and 6 Adventure Lab Caches

Walk Inspiration - Trail Magazine, November 2021, Walk 10

This may be the first time that a film has inspired one of my walks.  I recently re-watched Dead Man's Shoes.  The first time I watched it, I was blown away by the twist.  The last time I watched it, I thought I wonder which town it was filmed in?

The distinctive castle, which is a key location in the film, is Riber Castle.  It dominates the landscape and you can see it everywhere from Matlock, Derbyshire.  

Riber Castle

And there is something else to interest the rambler in Matlock.  Giddy Edge is a 3ft narrow path that runs along a 300ft cliff face.  There is a handrail one side and a sheer drop the other.  Rambling traffic allowed in only one direction.

Don't look down from Giddy Edge

It was over in a flash and recorded for posterity on a go pro camera that turns 70 seconds of video into a 1/2 GB video. Other people have uploaded it to Youtube, with audio and drone footage - so I'll point you at something created by experts with a better sense of drama.

With the excitement out the way early, the walk turns into the probable winner of "Walk of the Year, 2022".  Constant fine views as I make my way to Riber Castle and down to the former railway line of High Peak Junction.  The return is via Cromford and the Heights of Abraham.   

Simply splendid.

Down on the Valley Floor at High Peak Junction/Cromford Canal

Many Derbyshire Views

All it needed was a pub to round off the walk - but I am saving myself for the evening, where four Good Beer Guide Ticks await.

Blog report to follow.

22/05/21 - Buxton - Good Beer Guide (mainly) Pub Crawl

Pubs - 3 Gained Entry, 2 Barred Entry, 1 Dead

Good Beer Guide Ticks #546 - 547

Recovery time needed in the Premier Inn, following a grim weather walk to Three Shires Head.

At 5pm we are ready to attempt something that has not been tried for well over 6 months - an on-spec Pub Crawl. No bookings. Vague notes made on the four Good Beer Guide Pubs in Buxton. With Mrs M on board, we can already knock off the Wetherspoons. I'm braced for disappointment - its just a question of how much.

Cheshire Cheese, 37-39 High Street, Titanic Anchor and Steerage

Away from the Opera House and conservation area is a high concentration of pubs along the high street and in the Market Square. The second encountered on our short walk - after the intriguingly named Blazing Rag - is the Cheshire Cheese.

A tied house to the Titanic Brewery - possibly the only good thing to have come out of Stoke.

Double fronted pubs deserve to be photographed from further away

We negotiate our way, via the guardian of the door,  to the final remaining table - high stools and a shelf, looking directly at the bar but not close enough to work out what is on offer.  I'm not having Plum Porter again. I tried that with limited success at the Bree Louise in Euston, before it was knocked down for contravening iffy smells rules.  

So what to have?  All you need to do is ask for random things to do with the Titanic.  Captain Smith?  Yes, that's one but sadly not on here.  

I am offered a walk to the bar to peek at the goods but after a suitably lavish description of the 5 handpulls, I settle on a very fine classic bitter called Anchor, followed by a similarly high quality, but less enjoyed Steerage Golden Ale.

View from a high table

And then comes the decision?  The next on the list is a micro pub.  Unlikely to get in at the best of times.  

Do we risk our fortunately gained seats to be stared at by locals who remember when the building was a haberdashery in the 1950s?

Of course we do.

The Ale Stop, Chapel Street

It's dead.  One for the dubious ticks committee.  

No Entry

Looked more severe than merely closed.  Despite Mrs M shouting "leave it, it's gone" I look through the window at a scene of beery carnage.  A handpull from a beer engine strewn on the floor, amongst various other drinking detritus. 

Further on-line investigation shows that its not dead, just resting.  They aim to be reborn on June 21st.

Kings Head, 53 Degrees North and the New Inn

This leaves us with a 30 minute window before our booking at Itacha (highly recommended Greek Restaurant).  Kings Head looks lively with outdoor overspill.  53 Degrees North looks wonderful.  Both have chalk boards that make me feel like Joseph of Nazareth in December 0.

This leaves the New Inn, where bouncers at the door have been supplanted by a toothless smoker who has lost the ability to pace himself on Saturdays during lockdown.  I honestly thought Mrs M had bolted it back to Lenny Henry's.  

Still, it was a fine Robinsons Unicorn.  Which I know some people class as an oxymoron.

Red Willow Buxton, 1 Cavendish Circus, Wreckless and Strata West Coast IPA

There's a couple of brewery tap rooms in Buxton.  The Buxton Brewery was on my wish list but has not re-opened.  Instead, there is the tap room of the Red Willow Brewery - which unlike BB - is in the Good Beer Guide.

I know little of this brewery but do remember that Virgin Trains used to stock their Tilting Ale before Avanti took over the West Coast Main Line and upped the prices of advance tickets.

Its a former bank and has had a glorious make over that includes the introduction of a Begbie-esque mezzanine floor, a much desired booth that includes Chesterfields and some leather covered benching in the same style.

Impressive enough on its own but along with a good choice of beers, its also a Gin Palace.   

We were both very happy.

External Photos thwarted by the Buxton Yoof being lairly.  Internal photos didnt come out great.  Here's some lifted from the Internet.

"Go in Mate, its not going to hurt you"

"see, its lovely"

22/05/21 - Three Shires Head

Distance - 8 Miles

Geocaches - 10

Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine, Spring 2021, Walk 27

Here we have a classic Peak District walk that really deserved better conditions.  May 2021 just keeps on delivering.  Despite a weather forecast promising dryness, we sit in the car at Clough House Car Park for 10 minutes, listening to the rain bounce off the roof of the car.  Motivation to get on our boots is possibly at an all time low.  Nothing to do with an Afternoon drinking in Manchester, the day before.

Still, we are here and we need to get on.

Instantly, we are out into the Peak wilds, climbing along Cumberland Brook to its waterfall.

Loving the Peak District Signage

Cumberland Brook Waterfall

The highlight of the walk is Three Shires Head.  Located on the River Dane - its a couple of pack horse bridges and waterfalls, famous for being where Derbyshire, Staffordshire and Cheshire all meet.  Even on a poor weather day, I couldn't get a photo without muggles dicking around in the water.

Better Photos on the Internet

Some stunning views on the Dane Valley Way (another LDP to google) and the chance of refreshments at Gradbach Mill.  There is a little coffee shop but as its only doing takeaways, we decide to defer refreshment until we get back to the pub at Wildboarclough.  As you read this, I'm sure you will be shaking your head going "that was a mistake".

Today's Playground - The Dane Valley Way

Gradmach Mill

A small section of a very impressive looking Geocache Trail provides distraction on the way back.  Looking for tubs in rocks on wild moorland does a wonderful job of taking Mrs M's mind off the fact she could be wrapped up under the purple throw on a Premier Inn Hypnos Mattress.

One of us is Happy

Views to Shutlingsloe on the Return

I'd completed my research on the Crag Inn in Wildboarclough - the Google Maps Opening Hours were a slight concern, but this was a Saturday Afternoon and we felt blessed.

Nothing had prepared me for the two large vans emblazoned with "Demolition Services" on the side.  We still went closer but couldn't shout over the noise from the digger hacking away at the frontage to tell if this was a temporary closure or something more sinister.

For once, the Internet cannot help.  Their last FB post is simply the Peak District in the Snow.  Last December.

Things can only improve when we get to Buxton!

10/10/20 - The Mossbrook Inn, Eckington

Distance - 5 Miles

Geocaches - 5

Walk Inspiration - Pub Walks in Derbyshire

I had no right to have such a good walk, breaking up a long journey to the Infected North.  Much better than Tibshelf Services anyway.

The guide is elderly and you are never sure that the pub recommended will still be there.   No problems with the Mossbrook Inn - no longer a Beefeater but labelled on Google as "GastroPub".

Today's Gastropub

Over the main road and into a lovely copse wood alongside the Moss River.   I know a guide dog called Abi who would have loved the water.

Into the Woods

Over the Moss

At Birleyhay, I find the Bridge Inn too early for refreshment and the footpath home through Plumbley.  Only thing interrupting the fine views is the shooting party.  Yes, there were more than 6 in the back of the wagon, as they headed home to do whatever it is that the do with their bounty.

Time it right for Thwaites at the Bridge Inn

Or admire the Derbyshire Views

I'm first in through the door at the Mossbrook.  Yep, its nicely Gastro, with a fine patio area out front for those minimising risk.  Jaipur on draught.  

Just unsure its meant to look quite like this.... 

Jaipur - Indian for Cloudy

13/04/19 - Inn Way to Peak District Summary

Distance of the Inn Way to the Peak District - 89
Days completed in - 6
Pubs Visited - 31 visited out of the 51 promised in the guide.  Just a handful closed down permanently and several not open on Monday/Tuesday.   Three Stag Heads in Wardlow Mires only open at weekends - and that looked a real experience (see day 4)
Geocaches - 49
Timeframe - 08/04/19 to 13/04/19
Previous Inn Way Summaries - Yorkshire Dales, Lake District and North Yorkshire Moors.



My fourth annual Inn Way and I struck lucky.   Its the weather that can make or break these trips and I had a full week of blue skies and the only drop of water to land on my head was in the Monsal Tunnel.

I could have saved weight in the Osprey by ditching the waterproofs.

The walking on this route is spectacular and provides a great feel for the area - the wild edges of Stanage, Curbar and Froggatt, the gentle Country Houses and then the magnificence of the Hope Valley.   Absolutely terrific walking.

It also felt a lot less isolated than previous Inn Ways - especially last years North Yorkshire Moors.  The nightly locations had multiple entertainment options - including twin chipper Tideswell and the pub crawl that can easily be fashioned from a night in Castleton.

A wonderful experience.

As with all undertakings - there needs to be a roll of honour.

Best Walk - Day 3 - Just gets better and better - Complete Lathkill Dale, drop down to the River Wye and then climb for stunning views over the Monsal Trail.
Best Pub - Day 2 - The Bulls Head, Youlgrave.   A Tuesday night and it felt like the entire community had come out.  Football was on the TV, the darts team were preparing for a tricky away game and various other tourists were dining in the back room.   Proper pub banter.
Best Pint - Day 4 - Theakston Best Bitter at the Peak Hotel, Castleton.   Up untill Castleton, the beer was middling.   Castleton addressed this, with every pub offering high quality product.   Price range over the week £3.30 (Cock and Pullettt, Sheldon) to £5.40 (Peacock, Rowsley).
Best Meal - Day 6 - Unusually, no pies were harmed in the production of this walk.   Apart from a lunchtime Pork Pie in Eyam.   Once again, few menus offered anything exotic, so I was delighted with the last day Balti at Sangams in Hathersage.
Advice - I chose to not follow the order in the book and start at Hathersage - where there is a train station or long term parking available if you book a ticket on line from the Derbyshire Dales website.  No issues with accommodation. 

Each leg of the walk has been detailed on a separate blog, available at the link;

Day 1 - Hathersage to Baslow - 13 Miles
Day 2 - Baslow to Yougrave - 12 Miles
Day 3 - Youlgrave to Tideswell - 16 Miles
Day 4 - Tideswell to Castleton - 15 Miles
Day 5 - Castleton to Hayfield - 12 Miles
Day 6 - Hayfield to Hathersage - 18 Miles

The Photo Album on Flickr

13/04/19 - Day 6 - Inn Way to Peak District - Hayfield to Hathersage

Start - Hayfield
Finish - Hathersage
Distance -  18 Miles
Key Features - Snake Path, Kinder Reservoir, William Clough, Winhill Pike
Geocaches - 15
Pubs - 4 Visited, 7 Available
Previous Days - Day 1, Day 2, Day 3, Day 4, Day 5


So this is it.  Another year's adventure comes to an end.   An end of waking up and only having to concentrate on the next Full English Breakfast, pint and putting one foot in front of another.

You may remember from Day 1 that I've started slightly out of sync.   This walk is the first in the book but my final day.   Its also the longest - 18 miles in store for today.

But there is method in my madness.   As well as the transport benefits, this leg provides a summary of most of the walk, where you can see the edges and the Hope valley for a final reminder.   Besides, if you did 18 miles on day 1, you may be in danger of never starting day 2.

Leaving Hayfield, a couple of signs remind us of the Mass Trespass that opened up the countryside to Ramblers and the house where Captain Mainwaring was born.

Is it wise to walk 18 miles on the last day?

Mass Trespass

Snake Path gently rises out of Hathersage, overlooking Kinder Reservoir and providing access to the first big climb of the day, up along William Clough.   I've been worried about the distance, but paid no attention to the elevation.   Best part of 3000ft is climbed.

Snake Path

Overlooking Kinder Reservoir

At the top of William Clough, most people are turning right to conquer Kinder Downfall and embark on a fruitless search for Kinder Scout's highest point.   I press on, further north then west to walk through the wilds of Black Ashop Moor.

The terrain reminds of something out of Game of Thrones.   This blog has taken so long, that I still haven't had time to catch up of S8S1.

The Wilds of Black Ashop Moor

Another good point about saving today to the end is that this is the only time I get slightly dirty during the week.   Some serious peat bogs and black earth to navigate.  I dread to think what its like after inclement weather.

A good three mile yomp, where I bump into hopelessly lost Duke of Edinburgh's who should be on the Pennine Way.   I'm able to direct to where this path will intersect with where they need to be and reassure them that their mistake has probably saved them a couple of miles.

Saukin Ridge, after the lost DoE

My route climbs higher than the famous Snake Pass Inn, which hides itself away in the trees, should I have been tempted to divert.   A Roman road takes me to Blackey Hey for the 2nd climb of the day.  The views are mainly behind me.

Where I have been walking

A significant series of Geocaches at the top of Woodlands Valley, overlooking Ladybower, takes my mind of the walking.  Fine views over the Hope Valley and the omnipresent Castleton works comes into view yet again.

I'm just about done in when Winpike Crag is reached.   The end is near.

Go on, have another climb

A very steep drop down into Bamford, where only one of the two pubs remain.   The Anglers is in the Good Beer Guide 2019 and has been rescued by the community.   Pick the wrong door and you end up in the Post Office.   The barman selling me my Chatsword Gold was most interested in how far I had come.

Rescued by the community

Said Barman assures me its only 2 miles to Hathersage and all downhill.    He's half correct but a couple more agricultural climbs are in required.   The village comes into view and somewhere down below is my final bed for the night, the YHA.   At 49, I wonder if I will be the youngest resident again.

The Inn Way to the Peak District is Complete

After checking in, showering and having rescued celebration glad rags from the car, I have just a few more pubs to tick off.

And a summary blog to complete.

Nearest the YHA is the George Hotel.   Now, I keep a record of my pub visits on www.pubsgalore.com and the last review there was from the legendary 20 in a day pubcrawler, the late and great Alan Winfield.   I'll just nick his one star rating, as I couldn't agree more

Alan Winfield left this review about George Hotel
The George is a decent looking pub on the outside but once you get inside things go downhill fast its been completely stripped out with pine floors and modern decor 90% of the pub is laid out for diners but nobody was eating as I was the only customer there was a small bar area in the corner that sold crap beer in the shape of Boddingtons smooth flow,this isnt a pub for locals or normal drinkers don't bother with this place.

On 10th May 2010 - rating: 1

RIP Alan.   Nothings changed in the last nine years, although they've probably replaced the Boddies.

He was happier with the Little John over the road, where I found yet another new brewery - the Welbeck Abbey.   Decent enough locals pubs, with separate pool room and charming locals.

The Night has fallen on Little Johns

Having mainly been fruitless in my search for spicy food all week, I can confirm that Hathersage contains two Indian Restaurants.   It might have my forced abstinence but Sangams provided one of the best Baltis I have ever had.   And I used to work in Sparkhill.

A new cocktail bar called the Bank can be added to the list of hostelries but the final one in the guide is the Scotsmans Pack.    Walked past 6 whole days ago. 

Marstons Pedigree becomes the final pint of this years Inn Way.   I didn't find Little Johns Chair, as the only space was at the bar.

Dodgy photo but its been a long week

I'll be back next year for my final Inn Way. 

Northumberland awaits.