21/04/26 - The West Midlands Way Summary

 

The West Midland Way is a 50 year old walking route. Starting at Meriden, rumoured centre of England, it charts a circular route through Warwickshire, Worcestershire, Shropshire and Staffordshire. Hand drawn maps are always a challenge, but it was simple enough to plot, with many of the paths incorporated into established Long Distance Paths. The North Worcestershire Way and Heart of England Way were frequently visited.

Highlights

The route started with well connected by public transport locations. 

Stage 4 offered superb walking - the first time I have walked the Lickey Hills, Clent Hills and Waseley Hills on the same route - utilising the North Worcestershire Path.

Plenty of new and interesting discoveries - not least arriving at Rugeley to follow an Adventure Lab Cache detailing the life of the "Prince of Poisoners".

My adaption of the route included some fine drinking towns. Bridgnorth, Lichfield and Tamworth for the three times winner of CAMRA Pub of the Year. Bathams at the Three Horsehoes in Alverley, was possibly the best way I have ever waited for a bus. The bus stop right outside.

Lowlights

I will never understand why the route designers, Ron and Eric, missed out Lichfield. Looked like they did this on purpose, as the route detoured around it. Of course, I had to include it for public transportation. 

Seeing one man bring the entire North/South Railway network to a standstill by smoking cigarettes on the bridge just outside Penkridge Station was a lesson in woke policing.

Warwickshire is the most boring county to walk in - so the ending was not particularly fitting. Boring fields gave way to two miles of road walking, which could only be avoided by adding serious miles to an already long route. 

Meriden hides its only pub away from the town centre - which meant delayed celebration.

The Stages

Stage 1 - Meriden to Kenilworth

Stage 2 - Kenilworth to Henley-in-Arden

Stage 3 - Henley-in-Arden to Alvechurch

Stage 4 - Alvechurch to Hagley

Stage 5 - Hagley to Kinver

Stage 6 Part 1 - Kinver to Alverley

Stage 6 Part 2 - Alverley to Bridgnorth

Stage 7 - Bridgnorth to Shifnal

Stage 8 - Shifnal to Penkridge

Stage 9 - Penkridge to Rugeley

Stage 10 - Rugeley to Lichfield

Stage 11 - Lichfield to Tamworth

Stage 12 - Kingsbury to Meriden

21/04/26 - West Midlands Way - Stage 12 - Kingsbury to Meriden

I Finished Something!

The West Midlands Way - a fifty year old book, charting a route around the West Midlands - comes to an end.

Due to strange logistics, I have been forced to amend the second half of the route - for the life of me, I cannot understand why Ron and Eric, the route planners, missed out Lichfield and Tamworth. Fine towns but more importantly, public transport hubs.

It was Tamworth that I found myself finishing Stage 11 at. No matter how I planned it, I couldn't find decent paths to get to Kingsbury but there is a handy bus.

I've walked this part of the world extensively on the Heart of England Way and the Centenary Way. I have previously pronounced Warwickshire the country's most boring walking county. 

Two out of three ain't bad

Nothing today has prompted me to change my mind. Kingsbury Water Park offers occasional glimpses of bodies of water through the woodland. Shustoke Reservoir is hardly observed from the footpaths that circumvent it. There are endless agricultural fields - devoid of livestock and crops (at this time of year). One pub - The Swan at Whitacre Heath - so "chainy" that it wasn't worth stopping at.

The only chance to see Shustoke Reservoir

Distant views of Birmingham from a field in Warwickshire

The only item of interest on the map is Maxstoke Priory and this is a disappointment. The church is locked up and the remains of the priory - a couple of walls in a poor state of repair - are hidden from view on private land.

Maxstoke Church

Ideally, I would have liked to end things here. There are two miles of road walking to get back to Meriden. A bus would be handy but it only runs on a Wednesday - and then at 10am! Google Maps was checked for likely traffic and/or grass verges. It was safe enough to walk but I needed the Deserter Podcast to keep my spirits up.

Into Meriden - and despite the green, a memorial to the centre of England and a monument to British Cycling, there is no pub at hand. The Bull's Head another quarter of a mile on from the bus stop.

The Actual Centre of England is at Fenny Drayton

An underwhelming end to an interesting experience which started so well.

Walk Details

Distance - 12 Miles

Geocaches - 4

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6 (Part 1), Stage 6 (Part 2), Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10, Stage 11

20/04/26 - The Bridge Hotel, Stanford Bridge

Hospitality Horrors

Our plan was to use the Bridge Hotel Car Park - complete a 9 mile walk - and reward ourselves with a pint.

Even with today's prices, I am unsure whether this would have met the terms and conditions.

How to drive away customers

The route is from the Ramblers. Paths were better than anticipated in a remote corner of Worcestershire, but I have had to notify the council. A padlocked wonky gate, which even has the Right of Way Marker on the post. All added to to the outdoor gymnasium of clambering stiles and fallen trees.

As pleasurable as it was, little to report. We didn't quite make it to the door of the impressive Georgian Gothic Church at Stanford. The Sapeys (Upper, Lower, Common) have no infrastructure. We saw sheep, cattle, deer, hares, an owl but only one human. The farmer at Noverton fixing his gate.

Clifton-on-Teme Church

Worcestershire / Herefordshire views

Nearly 4 hours later and I would love to bring you a report on the pub. Mrs M quite strict in her instructions of "sod them".

Don't upset Mrs M

Walk Details

Distance - 9 Miles

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration

 

17/04/26 - Birmingham Culture

Needless and Peaky

The latest West Midlands History Podcast features the Peaky Blinders. It was only a matter of time. Carl Chinn enthusiastically reminding the listeners that they are not to be glamourised and were simply street thugs. And then going on to glamourise them for the next 30 minutes.

Finding Peaky Blinders locations in Birmingham is a little like shooting fish in a barrel. In fact, an Arthur and/or Tommy mural in a pub has now replaced Alsatians on a flat roof pub as the international measure of roughness. 

Coincidentally, I had just finished a book set in Birmingham and during the same time period, Needless Alley. 

Needless Alley is a crime novel set in 1933 Birmingham. William Garrett, a struggling private detective, makes his living staging divorce “honey traps” with his friend Ronnie Edgerton, an out-of-work actor. Their work brings William into contact with Clara Morton, the unhappy wife of a wealthy fascist, and he falls in love with her. When murder and corruption follow, William is drawn into Birmingham’s criminal underworld and canal-side backstreets.

The main characters are William Garrett, the troubled detective; Ronnie Edgerton, his witty but reckless partner; and Queenie Maggs, Ronnie’s tough, resourceful sister who lives on a narrowboat and knows the canal world better than anyone.

Rather fortuitously, there are walking routes pre-made for both Peaky Blinders and Needless Alley. I am able to just get on with walking, spotting key locations.

Book Title and Location of William's Private Detective Agency 

The Grand Hotel - Trysts between Clara and William

Art Gallery and Museum - William and Clara's first date

Gas Street Basin - Queenie lives on a Barge

Jon Jones Mural in Hill Street for the launch of the Peaky Blinders Film

Electric Cinema (looking increasingly sad) - Where William watched Marlene Dietrich movies 

A refreshment interlude. William often meets Ronnie in the White Swan, Digbeth. Last month, I visited this rough and ready pub by error, confusing it for the recently renovated and reopened Anchor.

It's not too surprising a mistake to make. Both pubs were built by the same firm - James and Lister Lea - share the same terracotta brick style and are located on the same street. In the interests of variety, I make the Anchor my port of call. 

An added incentive - the best track on Katherine Priddy's new album, Hurricane, was filmed there.

It's good to have the Anchor back. A Tardis-like multi-roomer, which cries out to be explored. And the chance of a first Bass of the year. Permanently on, Quinno.

Very similar to the White Swan

The light didn't work for the reverse photo

That dog was in the White Swan last month

The Peaky Blinder walk would have had me drinking in the Rainbow. The first mention of the Peaky Blinders in print. Carl Chinn explains;

“An ‘inoffensive chap’ called George Eastwood had been drinking in the Rainbow pub on the corner of High Street, Deritend and Adderley Street. The teetotaller was picked on by three hard men on the evening of March 23, 1890 – and all because he had a non-alcoholic drink. There is a bit of a row, but it dies down. Later, at about 11pm, George decides to go home. The hard men had already gone, so he must have thought it was safe – but as he was walking underneath the Adderley Street viaduct, he hears them shouting at him and then they brutally assault him under one of these two viaducts. One on the attackers was a chap called Thomas Mucklow, another was called Groom. The identity of the third man is still unknown. Groom punched George before they all started kicking with their boots along the street. And then Groom took off his heavy leather belt – these had thick brass buckles and they would wrap it around their wrist and leave about eight inches free, buckle it together and they would slash! Poor old George took so many beatings from the belt and the kicking and the punch that he was in hospital for three weeks. On the Monday night, the Birmingham Mail reported that this brutal assault was carried out by the gang of Peaky Blinders. It was the first time – March 1890 – that the term ‘Peaky Blinders’ had appeared in print.”

This would have been interesting for the walk - but unfortunately, the pub keeps night-time opening hours only.

The Rainbow - looking better during yesteryear

The back streets of Digbeth providing Peaky Blinder menace and the occasional artwork reminders. Montague Street, with the best mural of the day.

King of the Blinders - part of a much bigger art work

Not Peaky at all

Walk Details

Distance - 4.75 Miles

Geocaches - 4

Walk Inspiration - History WM Podcast and The Book Trail

15/04/26 - Good Beer Guide Ticking in Gloucester

Variety Abounds

The Drunken Duck, a tiny micropub down a little alley, has a fine collection of Bibles on the window-shelf.

Running back to the last Millennium

The natural thing is to check your home town - in my case - Stourport-on-Severn - to determine who made it in what year. The town has around 15 pubs - and in no time at all, I can see they have all made it during one year or another. Even the ones where I remember the beer quality, and in some cases, the pub itself to be dreadful.

This means the job of Good Beer Guide Ticking is a true Sisyphean undertaking. I expect much work to be done in the County Town since my last visit in Covid. 

I start at the early opener in the fancily gentrified dockyard area. Dr Foster's lacking in naming stakes originality and I must admit to not holding out much hope in a restaurant.

Unapologetically Gastro

Two major surprises - a Tap Takeover from one of may favourite Cotswold Breweries, Goff's. And everything £3 a pint. I mentioned my surprise to the barman, who simply replied "It's Wednesday, innit". Well long live Wednesdays.

Goffs Lancer - just add customers....

A short distance away is the Hop Kettle. Whereas the good doctor opens at 11am, the tardy kettle leave it to 3pm. 

Moving on to the Drunken Duck - which I remember as Angie's and a wonderful landlord who insisted on calling you by your name as he adhered to Covid delivery rituals. Busy with deliveries, beer salesmen and debt collectors, who left fully paid up. Their own house bitter is Butcombe Original.

Drunken Duck - Angies No More

The Fountain was Covid locked up before and I couldn't even get down the alley to take a photograph. It's discussed on the rather excellent Tourist Information audio tour. The oldest brewery and pub in the City, running since the C14th.

The Fountain

7 cask on - most from South West Breweries. My Tribute a panic buy, after being challenged as to what I was doing scanning the Cask Marque QR code. Full of pensioners eating and if I picked poorly on my pint, I made a worse choice on the seating. You try balancing on a church pew with the smell of fish and chips in your nostrils. The Campaign for Comfy Pub Chairs starts again here.

I was looking forward to The Pelican, a Wye Valley House that simply gave up during Covid and didn't open at all. The door was firmly closed and with no sign of life inside. I was forced to re-check Google for opening hours that said it should be open. A push of the door and indeed it was.

Little sign of life in the Pelican

A group of old boys, with the detritus of a serious session on display on their table, provided the eavesdropping entertainment. The Butty Bach was in fantastic condition. It's my regular pint in my GBG local, but it tops it here.

The Audio Guide had brought my attention to the New Inn, describing it as the finest galleried pub in the country. Built in 1440 by monks for pilgrims, I really had to investigate. Not least because Mr Rolls (of Rolls Royce fame) managed to run over himself here in 1896.

Gives the George in Borough High Street serious competition

What it provided in architectural atmosphere, it negated by having a poor beer selection and no-one on point to serve. I was happy with my mooch around, ready to head back to the station in a thunderstorm.

14/04/26 - The Talbot, Chaddesley Corbett

Licenced Café Vibes

We are borrowing dogs again. The third time out with Ian and Sam (we don't name them). We are told that Sam is likely to chase deer on our planned walk on Clent, so re-arrange for Chaddesley Corbett.

Normally, the post walk refreshment would be Bathams at the Swan but the other pub, built in 1501, has re-opened. Looking at the opening hours, we are not 100% sure as what.

Good Beer Guide Pubs marked with a Star in my Google Maps!

The walk was perfect. Wide open spaces on agricultural fields. Some woodland walking along the Royal Foresters Way. And with two male labs, I am delighted to say that every potential stile has been replaced with a kissing gate. We could kiss the local Ramblers. Or Farmers. Whoever maintains them has made the walk very accessible.

Ian and Sam

Along the Royal Foresters Walk

Where the bluebells are out early

Perfect.

Back to the "pub".  Detailed in my 1960s Historic Inns of Interest Book - where it was run by Banks and catered for 60 diners in an upstairs room.

1960s proof-reader required... Chaddersely Indeed 

Only open to 1pm, it cannot be a pub in the truest sense of the word. The owners are going for a licenced café vibe, with more typical hours on the weekends and no end of social events - from book clubs to Thai Street food takeovers.

Outside - cottages from 1501 knocked together

Insider - other customers out of shot

An opportunity to test Mr Clarkson's brewing abilities or chance the cask with a Worcestershire Way. Both shunned for an Americano. 

It seemed more apt.

Walk Details

Distance - 5.5 Miles

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration - 100 Walks in Hereford and Worcester, Walk 42

12/04/26 - London's Hidden Walks - Mayfair

Rock and Roll, Suicide

There are four volumes of London's Hidden Walks. I start posh. Book 1, Walk 1 is Mayfair. The guide is superb - packed with information, with pages of data on a relatively short tour of the capital's most opulent area. 

I'll pick out the bits that are of most interest to me, otherwise I will have the world's longest blog. The streets of London are paved with stories.

I emerged from the tube at Piccadilly - finding my bearings at Eros.

Eros - was meant to be Anteros, the Greek God of unrequited love

At the edge of Park Lane, I hunted for the flat at Number 9 Curzon Place. In 1974, Mama Cass died in a flat there, to be followed four years later - but incredibly in the same bed - by Keith Moon.

Behind the window at the top right hand corner

A little further on at Audley Square - an innocent enough looking lamp post was a dead drop location for Soviet spies in the 1950s. Letters stored behind a little opening at the rear, with chalk marks on the pavement indicating that there was a hidden message. WhatsApp is more efficient, but not as quaint.

Spy lore - now home of not one, but two Geocaches

Around Berkeley Square to find the nightclub that provides the redtop with so much ammunition. Annabel's used to be in the basement of 44, with the Claremont Club (Lord Lucan's gambling den) above. Number 50 is rumoured to be London's most haunted house - with tales of suicides, madness and toffs with shotguns.

Annabel's is now at 46

And this is as close as I will get to a Private Club

For reasons that may make it into a future blog, I am having an Evelyn Waugh cultural moment. In preparation for a visit to Madresfield Court, I am working my way through Brideshead Revisited. Smack bang in the middle of Mayfair is the Church of the Immaculate Conception. Mr Waugh converted to Catholicism there in 1939. Much like Rex in Brideshead. 

As pretty as a picture

To give you an idea as to how much material route planners have to work with in the Smoke, two adjacent houses in Brook Street both have blue plaques. The first, the home of Handel and next door, a couple of centuries later, Jimi Hendrix.

Jimi - Left; Handel - Right

And finally, Heddon Street - a little alley off Regents Street - was the location for the cover shot of Bowie's Ziggy Stardust. A little imagination is required to make the connection.

Ye, Who was K West? 

A Sunday morning too early for pubs, but there were some beauties along the route. Ye Grapes in Shepherd's Market needs a revisit.

Every pub's a beauty in London

Walk Details

Distance - 4.5 Miles

Geocaches - c30

Walk Inspiration - London's Hidden Walks - Book 1 - Walk 1

11/04/26 - A Kentish Town Pub Crawl

Return of the Mapp

The CAMRA Pub Crawls in London has been a rich source of inspiration. This is my first tick from the Second Edition. A quick check of the first edition shows an identical route - completed in my pre-blogging days. 

October 2007.

In many ways, it is comforting that the pubs remain.

The Assembly House - is not worth the inclusion, unless you are a fan of 1970s British Gangster Films. Let me count the ways. Greene King, with a poor beer choice. Terrible service. Exterior covered in so much scaffolding, it makes a photograph redundant. The interior has been stripped of everything that made it pretty - bar the billiards room skylight. Of course, the billiards table has been replaced by big screen football for the Arsenal fans to worry into.

We tried - and failed - to get served and that was for the best.

I'll leave you with Richard Burton as your guide;

Over the road for the Bull and Gate. 

Nowhere does handsome quite like London

In the second edition - this is filed under "Try Also". For fans of 1990s Indie Music, it is a Pilgrimage. The bands who played upstairs reads like my end of year Spotify list - Blur, Oasis, PJ Harvey, Suede, Manic Street Preachers and (er) Coldplay.

A far more sedate affair today - a nice place to sit in Chesterfields and ponder that a pint of Landlord is now £7.25. Alas, my record keeping 19 years ago does not allow me to show percentage inflation.

The ghosts of drinkers priced out of London drinking

Higher expense was to come at The Junction. With no cask on, I was forced into a £7.50 Staropramen. This, after working out how to get in. In a terrible case of burning bridges, the main front door has been seriously damaged by a drunk driver.

Up the Junction

The Pineapple to bring a sense of order to the day and reduce the overall price per pint average. Mrs M is watching the joint account being depleted in real time thanks to message alerts to wearable tech.

This is a classic back street local and regular in the Good Beer Guide.

Successful 2001 campaign to stop it being converted to flats

Even as a veteran pub goer, I occasionally get challenged by British Pub Customs. There is no cask on the heralded antique bar. Communication only works so well - and it takes a lot of walking around through narrow alcoves and little drinking rooms to find a beer festival in the tiny pub beer garden. A lady hiding behind the barrels tells me all beers are £4 but I have to buy a disc token from the bar. I am not suggesting you take part in counterfeiting, but if you have Connect 4 at home, you could get very, very drunk. With the added benefit that you would never have to play Connect 4 again.

Eventually we settle down in front of one of the two magnificent Bass Mirrors.

Zoom in to see the horror damage

The guide goes on for the compulsory Southampton Arms (recently visited) and optional Bull and Last (we don't need Gastro). So, we leave it at that and head for...... guess where?

Camden of course!

There won't be a blog - but I doubt there is a better pub experience than the Hawley Arms after dark. Superb people, music and now with added Harvey's Sussex Best.