28/02/16 - The Ridgeway Summary

Length of the Ridgeway - 85 Miles
Stages Completed in - 14
Distance Walked - 166.45 Miles
Geocaches - 207
Start - Avebury, Wiltshire on the 15th March 2014
Finish - Ivinghoe, Buckinghamshire on the 27th February 2016

Ridgeway, in its Linear Glory

I first noticed the Ridgeway at a corporate event in the shadow of Barbury Castle where they handed out shotguns.  That was a day that could have gone badly wrong but simply planted a seed in my mind as to what fine walking it looked.

Some planning and I determined that I could complete it at my leisure through a series of day walks - either circular or where public transport allowed, linear.

In March 2014, we commenced the odyssey - not at the official start, Overton Hill,  but at Avebury.  Don't miss out on this unique place of British History if you are thinking of tackling it.  Like Stonehedge but infinitely better.

We headed east and finished at Ivinghoe Beacon after 14 individual walks, 166 lovely miles and nearly 2 years later.

Highlights

No doubt about it, the walking along the early stages are superb - the broad, high path that lasts until you reach the Thames at Streatley provides the best walking imaginable.

Tuck into That

There's also regular hill forts, ancient burial mounds and seemingly endless geocaches to discover.

Lowlights
Don't get me started on Arkells Beer.  Tried it in three different places and it was ghastly.

Fool me once, shame on you.  Fool me thrice, shame on me

Advice for other Walkers

1. The western half provides the best scenery and walking. 
2. Public transport is tricky until Streatley. 
3. Where the Ridgeway crosses a road - there's usually a free parking area.
4. Its no hardship to complete circular walks.  The adjacent downs and paths are equally stunning.
5. Beware of Arkells.

How we completed it over 14 Day Walks
Each walk blogged with a map at the link

Walk 1 - Avebury - 7 Miles Circular
Walk 2 - West of Barbury Castle - 11 Miles Circular
Walk 3 - East of Barbury Castle - 10.2 Miles Circular
Walk 4 - Aldboune, 13.5 Miles Circular
Walk 5 - Bishopstone, 8.75 Miles Circular
Walk 6 - White Horse Hill, 13.5 Mile Circular
Walk 7 - Letcombe, 11.5 Miles Circular
Walk 8 - Scutchamer Knob, 15 Miles Circular
Walk 9 - Streately, 13.5 Miles Circular
Walk 10 - Into Watlington, 15 Miles Linear
Walk 11 - Out of Watlington, 8 Miles Circular
Walk 12 - Chinnor, 16.2 Miles Circular
Walk 13 - Princes Risborough, 15 Miles Linear
Walk 14 - Ivinghoe Beacon, 8.3 Miles Circular

The Photo Album on Flickr

27/02/16 - Finishing the Ridgeway

Distance - 8.3 Miles
Distance on Ridgeway - 3.5 Miles
Geocaches - 2
Walk Inspiration - Self devised circular walk to take in last leg of the Ridgeway
Pub - Rose and Crown, St Austell Trelawny

March 2014 and I came up with the idea of walking the Ridgeway on a series of day walks.

Two years and 13 walks later I reach the end.  And it all worked out rather well.

To provide some symmetry to the quest, Sonia accompanied me today.  She started off at Overton Hill, declared it a "cow track" and then only re-appeared to grab the glory of the finish.  Or it may have been she'd heard there was a night out in Wendover to celebrate.

A review of the map showed that a decent looking circular walk could be created from Ivinghoe.  It turned out even better than the map indicated.

We burst out of the village into fields to be met with the unexpected sight of a 17th Century windmill - one of the best remaining examples this side of Bruges.

Pistone Windmill - Standing all alone in the Low County of Bucks

One of the two caches of the day is found at Church End Farm before we pick up the West Coast Main Line and pass the happy free range chickens that have the run on Bulbourne Farm.

This leads to the Grand Union Canal, which provides arrow straight and peaceful walking to Tring Station - where I left the Ridgeway at the previous Stage.

Grand Union

The Guidebook promised cream teas at the Hotel next to Tring Station.  Fortunately, I had made no promises to my walking companion, as it is now a private house.  The cafe at the station appears to be only available for weekday commuters.

Never mind, we have brought sandwiches and I am sure that the Ridgeway will provide suitable seating once we get to a spot with a view.

With a tear in my eye, I see we only have 3.1 miles to go.

Sure enough, I'm ahead of Sonia as we reach the top of Aldbury Nowers Hill and shout "I spy with my little eye something beginning with 'B'".

Bench for the pre-supplied lunch

The Ridgeway provides a fitting end.  It's all views and a little bit of a rollercoaster as we climb Pitstone Hill, Steps Hill and finally, Ivinghoe Beacon.

Pitstone Hill

The Gap Between Pitstone and Steps

The End - Ivinghoe Beacon

I'd like to say that I spent a while and reflected on the journey, but there was a bitterly cold wind which meant we only stayed for a couple of photos and the last slice of Malt Loaf.

I'll write my summary blog from the warmth of Worcestershire to do that.

A steep drop off the side and an unfitting end walking along the pavement back to Ivinghoe.  Sonia claimed this to be wholly unnecessary and toyed with the idea of the bus, a taxi and hitch hiking.

Back to Civilisation

Ivinghoe is a one pub town - so decision making for goal completing celebrations is easy.

Rose and Crown, Ivinghoe

St Austell Trelawny 

To celebrate properly, we headed back to Wendover - discovered the previous stage.  Plenty of choice - for best bed - the Red Lion, best food - the George and Dragon and best pint - The White Swan.

Now to determine the next long term goal.

07/11/15 - Country Retreat

Walk Inspiration - Stage 13 of the Ridgeway
Start - Princes Risborough Station
Finish - Tring Station
Distance - 15 Miles, all on the Ridgeway
Geocaches - 7

I arrive at Birmingham International Station at 7:01am, bleary-eyed and in need of caffeine.  Check the departures board and the 7:14am to Leamington is on time.  This is good news, as I only have a 6 minute window to change trains for Princes Risborough.  Order my americano, sit on a comfy seat and take another glance.  Train cancelled.

Still, if this is the worse that happens today, I will be OK.

After a chat with an official with poor iPad skills, I determine that I can change route, go into Birmingham and out on Moor Street.  Eventual delays of 51 minutes.  This gives me a slight concern, as I now have 6 hours and 7 minutes to walk 15 miles an get my advanced booked train back from Tring.

Still, if this is the worse that happens today, I will be OK.

The weather, once again, is absolutely shocking.  You can guarantee that when I plan a trip on the Ridgeway, will have rain.  And today, is the worst yet.  And that is saying something.  Nothing for it, I goretex up from head to foot and leave Princes Risborough - instantly picking up the path, sharing it's course with the Icknield Way.  The rain is that bad that I don't notice the nozzle of my camelpak water carrier coming off and a torrent of water running down my jacket and into my boots.  That's more than half my water supplies gone and a walk back down the track to find the errant nozzle.

Still, if this is the worse that happens today, I will be OK.

For the first time since before Streatley, this section of the Ridgeway offers some great walking.  On this leg, we have items of interest, great views through the rain and some seriously good paths, climbing hills and dropping back down to do it all over again.  After a couple of dull legs, the Ridgeway has regained its Mojo.

The first climb is a stiff assault to on Brush Hill.  The incline is made bearable by the installation of steps.

Stairway to Heaven

Brush Hill and the Vale of Aylesbury

The first of only a handful of caches are found today - one making me laugh out loud and reminding me why I do this mental activity.  Not going to give it away here, but I will probably tweet a picture of the cache for my three caching followers in Japan.

The height is lost and an unexpected pub is passed by.

The Plough at Cadsden - obviously closed at 10:15am

Next up is Chequers - country retreat of the Prime Minister.  For some reason, I have always wanted to see this place and on foot is as close as you are going to get without having an invite from Sam and Dave.  As a rambler, you literally get to cross the grounds - with constant reminders that you are being watched.  With the weather, I am sure that Security had a good laugh at my predicament.

Note the Monument - of course, we are going to climb there

Signs a plenty

Cross Chequers tree lined driveway and back up into the hills to check out the Boer War Monument at the top of Coombe Hill.  A hell of a vantage point of the Vale.

Coombe Hill Monument

Down into Wendover.  Its after 12 and the pubs are open.  This is nice, as the last slurp on my camelpak produces the final gurgle of air and water.  I look at my progress - 2.5 miles per hour.  The Tring train is in jeopardy.  Look at my attire - drenched and my bottom half covered in mud.  No publican is going to want me in this state.  Its with a heavy heart that I pass by three decent looking boozers but I will be back.

Still, if this is the worse that happens today, I will be OK.

Wendover, you looked lovely.

Out of Wendover, and guess what?  Another Hill Climb.  The remainder for the walk is through woodlands, offering fine autumnal walking and shelter from the worst of the wind and rain.

Wendover Woodland

Free from distractions of public houses and only a smattering of caches, I pick up the pace - getting to 2.8 miles per hour and there will even be a chance of getting a post walk pint if there is a hostelry near Tring Station.

Even the sun comes out to great me as I reach the A41 - showing the hills of the final section of the Ridgeway in all their splendour.  If only I had a drink - Wendover was 8 miles previous.

Gap in the Clouds - and the rest of the Ridgeway

45 Minutes to spare.  But Tring is a dry station.  There is not a pub to be found.  Nevermind, I can get an earlier train to Milton Keynes and grab something there.  But I've forgotten - that when they built MK, they remembered concrete cows and forgot the basics.  The nearest pub is a Wetherspoons and its a 0.8 mile round trip.  I've done 15 and cannot take anymore.  I sit in Costa - minus a real ale and watch the pseudo tramps drinking special brew and hassling travellers for coins.

This is the worse that happens and I am not OK.

31/08/15 - Chinnor Up!

Distance - 16.2 Miles
Distance on Ridgeway - 7 Miles
Geocaches - 10
Start on Ridgeway - Lewnor
End on Ridgeway - Princes Risborough
Pub - Shepherd's Crook,  Crowell, Timothy Taylor Landlord



When you have a plan, you have to stick with it.  I was always going to use the extra day off this weekend to knock off the next leg of the Ridgeway.

The alarm goes at 5:45.  A mere 15 minutes after offspring number 1 has got in from a nightclub.   I awake to the sound of the rain drumming on the conservatory roof.  Sonia questions my logic.  I question my logic.

At least the motorway is quiet.

Park up at Lewknor and after a short crossing under the M40, I am back on the Ridgeway at a place called Cuckoo Pen.

The worst thing about the rain is that it makes all the photos look dismal.

Still, this stage of the Ridgeway requires a camera man of David Bailey proportions to make it look anything but dismal.

Its just a wide track through woods, offering limited views.

A rare gap in the trees for a "View"

There are some geocaches as I make my way through the Clay Pits on either side of the path.  With the weather as it is, I will look for a couple of minutes but I am not wading into the damp undergrowth for a smiley.

Leave the trees behind at Thickthorne Wood and the Ridgeway opens out into agricultural land, offering something else to look at.

Out of Thickthorne Wood

Nothing more to say.  Nothing happens.  Nothing to photograph.  I leave the Ridgeway behind at Shootacre Lane and consider it's former glories back in Wiltshire.

Saunderton is the turning back point and the route I plot back is reasonable.  A large part of it is on various "Ways" (Chiltern, Midshires), which means that I have chosen quality paths.

Bledlow is the first village that I walk through and the pub, the Lions of Bledlow, looks exceptional.

A shame it's only 11:30am.

The Lions of Bledlow

I see the occasional puff of smoke and hear the odd toot of a whistle, which means I am approching Chinnor.  Film location for Midsummer's Murders (more of a Bergerac man myself), it also has a Heritage Railway line, with a Steam train plodding backwards and forwards to Princes Risborough.

A double disappointment, I am too wet to stop at any of the pubs in town - not wanting to de-boot, and de-goretex - only to have to put it all back on again.

And I missed the Beer Festival by two days.

Two Days Too Late

The rain comes down again and by the time I reach Crowell, I cannot deny myself a cheer up.

The Shepherd's Crook it is.  A fine choice, as there are five real ales on - and the stone floors mean I don't have to disrobe. I go safe with a classic Timothy Taylor Landlord.

I'm too wet to sit inside, so I take my pint and sit in the beer garden.  Some may think this is odd, but there really is only so wet you can get.

Just me, a sheep and upturned Wellies

That's Better

Positively cheered up, I head back onto the trail.  Some fine churches at Kingston Blount (11th Century) and Aston Rowant - I cannot help but think I am walking in England's History.

Around the Cricket Pitch, past the Stud Farm, back under the M40 and the walk is over.

Five hours later, I think I have finally dried out.

06/06/15 - Head back when you hit the M40

Stage 11 of the Ridgeway
Distance - 8 Miles
Distance on Ridgeway - 3.3 Miles
Start - Watlington
Finish - Where the Ridgeway meets the M40
Geocaches - 4

A change of plan for Stage 11 of the Ridgeway.  Having knocked off 15 miles in my first linear walk on this Long Distance Path, I originally intended to continue onwards to Princes Risborough on another 9 mile linear walk.  Sonia could have taken a leisurely lie in at the Fat Fox Pub and let her sausages go down.

A plan in principle, but it seemed cruel to deny Sonia another walk on the path that she affectionately calls the "Old Cow Track".  And the Fat Fox has a 10am check out time.

Watlington is a recommended place to stop on the Ridgeway.  Interesting village that has an independent feel.  No chain coffee shops here.  There are three pubs.  The Fat Fox was where we stayed, in a lovely beamed barn conversion.  Sonia gauges the quality of a place by the towels and the biscuits.  100% Egyptian Cotton and Kitkats make for a happy woman.

It was also the place we chose to eat last night.  A five course French themed night could not be resisted, even if we couldn't work out if the Canapes were £5 for lot, for each diner or for each type of Canape.  It seemed tight to ask our theatrical waiter for advice.

After a fine meal we checked out the one of the other pubs, the Chequers Inn.  Best beer in town.  And the food looked none to shabby either.

After breakfasting with the same pair of ladies who avoided the Canape conundrum and went straight to Soup, we determine that they are fellow Ridgeway walkers.  I know this as they are protesting that £40 is too much for a taxi to take their bags to Wendover and they ask me (checking me out for the be-kitted rambler that I am) how much I am paying.  I explain my attempt at doing the Ridgeway as a series of day walks, which will take me a lot longer than them but without the need of paying high price carriage costs.

Onto the walking and we pick up the Ridgeway where I left it yesterday.  A terrible sight awaits us.  Scores of Duke of Edinburgh kids who are having the rules explained to them;

Leader - "If you miss the checkpoints today, you will be failed"
DoE'er - "What's a Checkpoint?"

As we leave them, no doubt the next question would have been "When do we get to lie around in a big group moaning?".

The Ridgeway holds no surprises, with the exception that there is only one geocache along this stretch.  I break up the monotony of the Cow Track by attempting to photo the magnificent Red Kites that swoop overhead.  Sonia tells me what I already know.... they will never come out well with that lens.

Nothing to report until we meet the M40, where I have chosen to be the turning point of Today's Walk.

The Ridgeway, going under the M40

Time to use this Footpath to leave the Ridgeway

I always assumed the Ridgeway crossed the M40 at the cutting a little further South.  There is a wonderful looking path that I gaze at lovingly as I flee the south after a day working in the Smoke which I will have to come back for another day.

Circumvent the M40 J6 exit roads and a field of evil horses and we are under the M40 walking towards Lewknor Village.  A little geocache series allows us to get some numbers.

It's a pretty place with a nice looking pub, which of course, we are too early for.

Remains Uninvestigated

The walking back to Watlington is fine, if not a little unspectacular.  Farmland and the Oxfordshire Way bring us past the Model Farm and through the pretty (no shops, no pub) hamlet of Pyrton.  Having seen the prices of three bedroom houses through the estate agents window last night, we play "Guess the Property Prices" of the mansions.  And why do Vicars needs such massive estates?

Oxfordshire Way - To Pyrton

In no time at all, we are back in Watlington.  You could have twisted my arm for a pint, but Sonia fancied cake.  Fine Italian lemonade and carrot cake hit the spot but do not making a satisfying photo to close down a blog.

05/06/15 - Striding out on the Ridgeway

Start - Streatley and Goring Station
End - Watlington
Distance - 15 Miles
Distance on the Ridgeway - 14 Miles
Geocaches - 17

Getting into Streatley on the last stage of the Ridgway marked a change.  From this point on, the walking changes from exposed chalk upland to river towpaths and woodland.  I also hit civilisation, meaning that I can get there on Public Transport.

For the first time since I set out in March 2014, I am able to knock off some miles in a linear walk, talking me from Goring Station to a handy village with accommodation, Watlington.

The only drama was the potential of a train strike on the day that I had booked to travel.  Hats off to ACAS for saving the day.

Depart Worcester on the 7:32 and arrive, via Oxford, at 9:50.  Street walking down to the River Thames and a couple of easy caches.



The River provides some easy walking, not that my only fellow Ridgeway walker is taking anything for granted.  I pass an elderly gent in a Sunhat (advisable), Shorts (Uhmm... not good for stingers) and four season Scarpa mountain boots.  No wonder I overtook him with ease, it was like having a drag race with Frankenstein's monster.

There's a couple of villages along the Thames that are worthy of further investigation.  Despite having near identical churches, South Stoke has the edge over its Northern brother by virtue of a rather handsome pub.

I'm coming back.

South Stoke

North Stoke

And the reason why the South Triumphs

10:30am is too early for a stop off and I have 15 miles to go today.  I have checked out the map and there is the lovely Big Blue Cup of Joy marked at Nuffield, around 11 miles into today's walk.  That is the motivation that I need to get a plod on.

The A413 marks the end of the Thames walking and forces me to head east, where I pick up Grimm's Ditch.  Its cache laden and nicer than it sounds.

The Start of Grimm's Ditch

Mappiman in the Ditch

The caches break up the walking, with the highlight involving a quick tree climb.  The trees provide some relief from the afternoon sun.

The ditch steadily climbs to the escarpment, providing views back over the Oxfordshire Vale and the ever present views of Didcot Power Station.

Giant Haystacks

Thoughts turn to the my lunchtime pint and I am worried by a sign that greets me on a stile.  Yes, I am having a nice walk but surely they cannot be talking about my Crown?

Bad News Ahead?

I don't talk them up on their offer of free tea and head on to check out the scene of devastation for myself.  It's a horrorshow.

A stolen pub sign and a knocked down goblet

It looks like my ever dwindling supply of luke warm camelbak water is all I am going to have to accompany lunch.

At least I have it in a nice place.

Lie down, look at the Red Kites above, eat Sausage Rolls

Sonia learned that I had booked a rather expensive B&B for the night, and not wanting to miss out on the complementary kit kat, has been hot footing it down to meet me.  In my car.

I get an excited text that she worked out how to get the Wonderstuff on the iPad, has parked up at the B&B and is having a drink in the pub garden.

Nice of her to share her joy.

I arrange to meet her at the first pub that greets me in Watlington, to the South of the village.  Unfortunately, I have given her the name of the pub at the far north of the village and I cannot really blame her for not checking the position of the sun.

I am just forced to walk an extra 0.5 thirsty miles to get my reward.

04/04/15 - Ridgeway in Decent Pint Shocker

Distance - 13.5 Miles
Distance on Ridgeway - 6.5 Miles
Geocaches - 14
Walk Inspiration - Self Created Stage 9 of the Ridgeway


I'm always looking for ways to improve this blog and I've noticed other walking bloggers writing gear reviews.  Having purchased some new Brasher walking socks, I'll give it a go.

They tell you which foot to put them on

Dressed like a hiking Jimmy Cricket, I head off to Streatley, Berkshire, to complete the next stage of the Ridgeway, walking west to meet up with the crossroads where I turned off the Ridgeway at the end of Stage 8.

Instant Reminder of how far I have come and how far to go.  Let's call in halfway

This is the last of the chalk uplands, so I know what the walking will be like.  A broad track with sweeping views in all directions.  From now on, the Ridgeway will change character, becoming less remote and offering a different experience.

Today, I make do with the walking and the occasional geocaching, sharing the path with only a couple of cyclists.

I've had 41 miles of this glory

Turn off the Ridgeway at the crossroads just before East Ilsley, heading south to Compton.  Another pretty village to pass through, again too early to take advantage of what amenities are on offer.

The Swan at Compton

I'm making my own route back to Streatley, planning out footpaths wherever possible.  One path takes me into what I think is someone'garden but is actually a disused railway station, looked after by someone who's read too much JK Rowling.

Dr Beeching Victim

Goes to Hogwarts

An unavoidable nasty stretch of road walking for around a mile takes me to Aldworth.

Contains 7ft Medieval effigies known as the Aldworth Giants.  

The next couple of miles are along ancient green lanes where there is no traffic at all.  A couple more geocaches to break up the walking.  Eventually, I arrive at a pretty little spot called Mutton Copse, where there is a steep hill to climb, rewarding me with some nice views over the Thames from the top.

Huff and Puff up the Hill

To see how the Ridgeway changes character after Streatley

Slip slide my way down to civilisation for suitable refreshment after 11 miles walking.  I've not been very lucky with pubs on the Ridgeway, being served some simply atrocious ales, paradoxically in lovely looking pubs.  Not sure whether it's Arkell's beer or I have just been unlucky.  Ever the optimist, I prepared to give it another shot.

One of the Stops in Jerome K Jerome's "3 men in a boat".  I've read that - its great

Politely leave my muddy shoes under the porch and confidently stride in with my socks announcing to the world that I have them on the correct foot.  Ask the Barman for a sample of the "Streatley Best" and he assures me it is superb.  In an Italian accent.  Can I trust a cosmopolitan European for a Real Ale review?

I can and it was.

Ironically, I appear to have banged my head Geocaching - Unnoticed Geo-injury gently bleeding

A superb walk and I'm really looking forward to the next stage.  As Streatley (well Goring) has a train station, I can do the next two days walking linearly and make my way from here to Princes Risborough, overnighting in Watlington.