04/08/25 - Upton-Upon-Severn to Tewkesbury

The Pear and the Pulpit

A monthly newsletter comes courtesy of Walk Midlands. A man with a beautiful web site and a penchant for walks accessible by public transport. Upton to Tewkesbury appealed and both towns are well worthy of spending a day. Upton, in particular, must be up for the prize of most public houses per capita. 

With AI at our disposal, I can actually tell you that prize would go to Rhayader - a town for another weekend.

Today, I don't hang about in Upton - despite being tempted to spend time in the Map Shop. That's the sort of town it is - a whole shop, just dedicated to maps. More reasons to love it.

I'm straight down to the River Severn - my handrail to Tewkesbury, rendering GPS largely superfluous.

Down by the River

This is the section of "hams" that may be familiar to those using the M5. Whenever it rains for two days, the landscape turns into an inland ocean. As a result, there is very little on the map of interest. It's more or less empty space, with just a walk under the pillars of the M50 to break up the monotony.

This makes a detour to Bushley a necessity before dying of boredom. The church spire spotted from the Severn Way and a single geocache seals the deal.

St Peter’s Church, Bushley was rebuilt in 1843 in Victorian style, using local blue lias stone from Sarn Hill and Postlip stone from the Cotswolds for the spire and decorative features. Inside, it retains several 17th-century Dowdeswell family monuments. The chancel, rebuilt in 1857 by Sir Gilbert Scott, reflects 14th-century design. A font, possibly 12th-century, was once used as a farm drinking trough before being returned. Nearby are the brass figures of Thomas Payne, a woolstapler and retainer of the Earl of Warwick, and his wife Ursula, originally located in the old church’s chancel.

Bushley Church

Gargoyles

Payne Brasses

Into Tewkesbury on a Monday. The more I visit, the more I fall in love. The Black Bear impressing on my last visit but is closed at the start of the week. The Cross House Tavern - the king of micro pubs - is open.

A favourite

A lengthy chat with the Scouse owner - I was impressed with the Sarah Hughes Ruby Mild that was on offer but more impressed with a recent beer. Three types of Spingo beer from the Blue Anchor in Helston. So good, he delivered a barrel to the Roscoe Head in Liverpool.

It seemed more fitting for me to choose a cider or a perry - what with it being Cider Pub of The Year. Couldn't find my chosen drink on untappd. I think it was called Mid Severn and firmly placed in the middle ground of ABVs detailed on the chalk board. It was poured from a bag in a box hidden in a crate.

Information on the Cross House

The Back Room

With 90 minutes until my (cancelled) train, I have time to check out a couple of interiors. Despite the 'spoons being a medieval banqueting hall, it didn't make for good internal photos. Summer holidays ain't it. Kids running around and babies screaming.

The abbey looking magnificently photo friendly.

Saved from Henry the VIII

Walk Details

Distance - 7 Miles

Geocaches - 1

Walk Inspiration

02/07/25 - Ebrington to Ilmington, via Foxcote

On the Trail of the Yubbington Yawnies

More folk tales from the Loreman Podcast. Episode 6 tells of the simple folk of Ebrington, known colloquially as the Yubbington Yawnies.

Most villages have an idiot. Ebrington is full of them, according to legend. Famed for;

• Caging cuckoos to stop summer ending
• Fishing for the moon in the village pond
• And most famously, attempting to make the church tower grow by covering the base in manure, prompting a poem.

“The Yubberton Yawnies be so wise

They mucked the tower to make it rise

And when the muck began to sink

They swore the tower had grown an inch”

This all happens to be in prime Cotswold walking country.

I start at a previously undiscovered car park hidden behind a new build estate and handily positioned for the pub, the Ebrington Arms. North, climbing hills to Lark Stoke. Some fine views in all directions. I am sure the OS Maps had a feature where you could use the camera and it would identify topological features and superimpose the data on the views. If it is still there, I couldn't get it to work in the field.

Lark Stoke Hill Views

And over Ilmington

A drop down to the edge of Ilmington. This is a village recently walked on the Centenary Way. This means I have crossed the border from Gloucestershire into Warwickshire.

Back uphill, over Windmill to walk the grounds of Foxcote House. 

A gap in the hedge to view Foxcote House

Nash's lane to take me back to the pub. Did I find any idiots? Walking back into town, I followed two late middle aged ramblers who stopped to start passionately snogging. I wouldn't have minded, but this took place at the spot where I was thinking of having lunch. For a moment, I was worried things were going to escalate but they spied me getting my banana out (not a euphemism) and scuttled off.

Oh, and the pub beer garden had two men in identical clothes (yacht shoes, pink knee length shorts, stripey tops), with identical hair (bald, beard) both drinking rosé wine. Do these people phone each other up first?  

The pub was labelled by the Times as the best Village Pub in England. It used to be owned by someone connected with the North Cotswold Brewery     and sold a beer called Yubbies. It has changed ownership since my last visit but still has beers from that brewery in the line up. Knowing it would be more than a fiver a pint, I asked for a sample of the Shagweaver first.  

Cotswold Village Pub - The Ebrington Arms

Cask beer in a summertime garden

Perfect condition. Just goes to show, you can have cask in summertime. If you pay £5.45.

Walk Details 

Distance - 7 Miles

Geocaches - 7

Walk Inspiration - Loremen Podcast and Harry Hargreaves The Third Book of Cotswold Rambles, Walk 3

Previous Loremen Walks - Churchill, Burford, Long Compton, Swinbrook, Minster Lovell

01/04/25 - The Sodburys

Finding Palmers 200 North of Somerset

Easy transport links from the Midlands to Yate. A fairly non-descript town of dead pubs and new build shopping experiences. But walking just 2 miles west allows for the Cotswold Villages of the Sodburys to be explored.

Village	Description
Chipping Sodbury	The largest of the three, it’s a historic market town founded in the 12th century. It has a picturesque high street with pubs, independent shops, and a long-standing market tradition. Contains all the refreshment options, including a Good Beer Guide Pub, the Horseshoe.
Old Sodbury	A small village just to the east, known for its scenic location on the Cotswold Way walking route. It has St. John the Baptist Church, which dates back to the 12th century, and remnants of an Iron Age hillfort.
Little Sodbury	A tiny hamlet with a rich history. It’s notable for Little Sodbury Manor, where William Tyndale is believed to have worked on his English Bible translation in the 16th century. The Cotswold Way also passes through here, making it a good spot for walkers.

A march from the railway station to find another village claiming to have the widest high street in the land. This, and oldest pub, must be the most spurious claims to increase tourism.

Wide enough to hold the Mop Fair - 04/04/25

In recent weeks, I have walking in three different counties. Each one, I have accidentally stumbled on the Monarch's Way. Whatever you have to say about Charles II, he certainly got around his kingdom.  

The LDP leads across common land to Little Sodbury End, Horton and Old Sodbury. The clue is in the name here with plenty of history. First a church dedicated to William Tyndale;

William Tyndale (c. 1494–1536) was an English scholar and religious reformer, born in Gloucestershire, best known for translating the Bible into English. In 1535, he was arrested in Antwerp after being betrayed by an English informant. He was imprisoned for over a year in Vilvoorde Castle, near Brussels, where he was tried for heresy by the Catholic Church. In October 1536, he was convicted and sentenced to death. He was strangled at the stake and then burned, his final words reportedly being, "Lord, open the King of England’s eyes." Despite his execution, Tyndale’s English Bible translation remained influential, forming the basis of later versions, including the King James Bible.

Bad Henry VIII

And going back into antiquity, Sobba's Hill fort. Overtaken by Woodcock Farm, who used the centre for making Hay (presumably only when the sun shines). The ramparts are clearly visible and the Cotswold Way runs right through the centre.

Old Sodbury Hill Fort is a large Iron Age hill fort in South Gloucestershire, near the village of Old Sodbury. Positioned on a high ridge along the Cotswold escarpment, it offers commanding views over the surrounding landscape. The fort dates back to around 400–100 BC and was originally built by the Dobunni tribe as a defensive settlement. Enclosing approximately 11 acres (4.5 hectares), it features multiple ramparts and ditches, which were later modified during the Roman period. It may also have been used as a strategic site during the Wars of the Roses. The name Sodbury is thought to derive from the Old English Sobba’s burh, meaning "Sobba’s fort." Today, the site is part of the Cotswold Way walking route, attracting visitors for its historical significance and scenic views.

Always hard to photograph a hillfort

But none of this prepares you for the view from St John the Baptist Church. I doubt I will have a more scenic lunch spot than from the bench overlooking the Severn Vale. 

A single ham sandwich barely apt for such a place

Worryingly, Chipping Sodbury church tower can be spotted a long way away. 

I have a train to catch and a Good Beer Guide Pub to tick off.

I cannot attest to this, but the Horseshoe has to be the stand out pub in the village. Others were spotted but are all trying to be something other than a pub. The Squire was almost visited until I saw the branding "Steak on the Square". Real Ales look way down on its list of offerings.

Not at the Horseshoe - it sells beer and has music

Its not often I get excited but almost a whoop of delight as I spotted Palmers 200. That doyden of Dorset beer that has never been seen so far north. I wasn't even sure if they sold it in their non tied pubs.

Where to find Palmers Tied Houses

A conversation with the barman told that it is permanently available here and they sponsor their Cask Marque status. I feel an Internet Job coming on. Maybe I could maintain a database on locations with Palmers permanently on.

Zoom in to see a rare Timothy Taylor shunning

Times are checked for the 3.04pm return train. Google maps shows it to be 1.6 miles to go.  That can be done in 30 minutes, can't it? 

Only if I can down this second Palmers in 11 minutes.

Ubers are available.

Walk Details

Distance - 11.5 Miles

Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine, November 1991

Geocaches - 16

18/03/25 - Winchombe, Belas Knapp and Brockhampton

Bells, Barrows and Barstools

First visit to Winchcombe since the nonsense of the COVID Lock-downs. Spring is certainly the time to come.

Start off by seeing if there are any secrets left in St Peter's Church. When outside, look out for the gargoyles and the bullet holes. I've never been inside before but I have recently read about the twin coffins.

One of a pair

The only downside of venturing in a place is you are bound to get into conversations with enthusiastic amateur historians. See also National Trust Venues. I do believe that I have now ticked off all that this fine medieval wool church has to offer.

Onwards, slightly delayed, with the walk. Soul restoring.

Out on the Cotswold Way

Looking back with the new born lambs - always a special day on the calendar

The main target of the day is Belas Knap Long Barrow.

Belas Knap is a Neolithic long barrow located in the hills above Winchcombe, dating to around 3000 BC. It was used as a communal burial site, with stone chambers built into the sides of the mound. A false entrance at the front may have had a ritual purpose or served to mislead grave robbers. Excavations have uncovered the remains of more than 30 individuals. Today, it’s a quiet, open site with views across the countryside. 

Long Barrows, notoriously tricky to photograph

A peaceful spot for lunch before taking in the finest countryside walking the Cotswold has to offer, aiming for Brockhampton on the opposite side of the Coln Valley.

Ruined Wontley Farm - 1980s raves to a warehouse for stolen car parts

Brockhampton teases with the OS Map showing a Big Blue Cup of Joy. I'd already resigned myself to a remote Cotswold pub being open on a Tuesday afternoon but things were even worse. It looked long closed but an ongoing campaign led to research its a post COVID cost of living casualty.

Craven Arms, Brockhampton

Campaign for Open Pubs

Ironically, the banners are adorned on "The Old Shop" and "The Old Post Office". Guess there will be a new one on the Craven Arms - "The Old Pub".

The return to Wincombe follows new signage for the Coln River Trail. This looks intriguing. I already have the Wardens/Windrush Ways from Winchcombe earmarked. Looks like another 33 mile multi dayer joins the list.

All the way back to Winchcombe

The grounds of Sudeley Castle mark a spectacular return.

Sudeley Castle is a historic Tudor manor house just outside Winchcombe, with origins dating back to the 15th century. It’s best known as the final home and burial place of Katherine Parr, the last wife of Henry VIII. The castle has seen both royal visits and civil war damage, and was partly restored in the 19th century. Today, it’s privately owned but open to the public, with formal gardens, exhibitions, and access to Parr’s tomb in the chapel on site.

The End of the Walking - Sudeley Castle

Sudeley Castle is a historic Tudor manor house just outside Winchcombe, with origins dating back to the 15th century. It’s best known as the final home and burial place of Katherine Parr, the last wife of Henry VIII. The castle has seen both royal visits and civil war damage, and was partly restored in the 19th century. Today, it’s privately owned but open to the public, with formal gardens, exhibitions, and access to Parr’s tomb in the chapel on site.

Now for the choice of pubs. Having a "week after Super Saturday" Good Beer Guide Tick during the last lockdown, it had to be the Plaisterer's Arms turn. An unlikely but genuinely authentic Irish pub, still run with an iron fist by the Irish Landlady. I previously caught both barrels of her hospitality skills during a bizarre discussion about Sunday Lunch menus. 

Alas, she is still keeping American tourists on their toes, not least by not opening on Tuesdays or Wednesdays.

Need to come on weekends if you want an afternoon drink

The Lion wins again, when our convivial landlord is burning off the last of the Winter's log pile and serving the best pint of Butcombe Original known to man. 

Its the Corner Cupboards turn to be in the GBG this year, not the Lion

Liquid Perfection

Walk Details

Distance - 12.5 Miles

Walk Inspiration - Day Walks in the Cotswolds, Walk 14

Geocaches - 2 and an Adventure Lab Cache

10/01/25 - Honeybourne to Moreton-in-Marsh Rail Trail

Minus 3 all the way to the Prancing Pony

The cold snap offers unexpected advantages to the year-round rambler. The usually treacherous mud in the horse fields is frozen firm, sparing one from the threat of trench foot. On the frost-hardened ground, the ice holds the weight of a 14.5-stone man with just the faintest suggestion of splintering.

But you've got to keep moving.

Officially, I have finished the Rail Trails on the Cotswold Line. But another journey to Worcestershire Parkway for the Student. Who is going for an Interview. For a job. I'm sure there are more courses he could take on, if he really put his mind to it.

I depart at Honeybourne, with half a cup of hot coffee, purchased by the Student. He felt I needed consoling after spending £16.90 for a 30 minute return train journey. I'd already had a go at the hapless ticket seller. He was smiling as he said "It's the Cotswold Line, innit".

At least it's a fine walk - with most paths a repeat from the Heart of England Way.

Its a climb out of the Vale of Evesham onto Dover's Hill. Undulating paths through Chipping Campden, Broad Campden and Blockley before dropping down to the Marsh that gave Moreton is decription.

Here are some photos;

Near the Start - Honeybourne Church

Looking over the Vale of Evesham from Dover's Hill

Cotswold Way Marker pointing towards Chipping Campden

Climbing out of Norcombe Wood Valley near Blockley

With a few villages/towns walked through, there are plenty of refreshment choices. Too early for the 8 Bells Inn and Bakers Arms. Not prepared to risk the Great Western Arms again.

I save myself for Moreton-in-Marsh. Trains back are hourly. I have 45 minutes to enjoy a North Cotswold Brewery Best Bitter in the Bell Inn.

Tolkien's story told in picture form.

Good Beer Regular - and deservedly so

Inspiration

Could be handy in a pub quiz

Walk Details

Distance - 12 Miles

Geocaches - 6 and 7 ALC

Previous Cotswold Line Rail Walks - Worcester Parkway - Foregate Street, Foregate Street to Malvern, Worcester Parkway to Pershore, Pershore to Evesham, Evesham to Honeybourne

20/09/24 - Tewkesbury, The Oldest and the Newest Pubs

Trapped by a Tornado

As excuses for being late for a Worcester Pick up - trapped in a pub by a tornado is right up on the edge of the believability stakes.

Caught a little down spout in Tewkesbury, looks better in 4k. pic.twitter.com/LwnP5gWx7X

— Rich$ingularity🇬🇧 (@richdeanmartin) September 20, 2024

Quite mental, as there was only sunshine at Worcestershire Parkway Station. That, and no trains south caused by all the flooding.

Tewkesbury was a stop off - Two Adventure Lab Caches opening my eyes to this rather unspoiled town. The Abbey, medieval buildings all flag bedecked as though the armies from Games of Thrones are visiting, cat art and many, many alleys.

How great to see the Black Bear open for the first time in my beer blogging career. And haven't they done a fine renovation job. If I told you it had a sympathetic make over, with a fine terrace overlooking the River Avon, you'd probably expect Gastro.

Glosters Oldest Inn

Lots of claims - as you would expect. Dating from 1308 and etched onto the pint glasses. Shakespeare performed there. A tunnel runs to the Abbey - now glass covered, with a monk hiding below. Used as a field hospital after the 1481 Battle of Tewkesbury. More ghosts than you can rattle a chain at.

I was impressed that they had Uley Brewery house beer and the prices kept to an affordable £4.  Excellent stuff.

And since my last visit in 2018, a new Good Beer Guide Tick in town - The Cross House Inn. Architecturally, you would be hard pushed to tell which pub was the newest.

Someone's Pub of the Year - 2023

It's a cracking two roomed micro. Ales, counter top mounted and gravity fed. Ciders and perries in bags in pull out draws.

Carton were exported to Worcestershire. 

Frequent checks at the door to see if the storm had passed. Time to determine that Travelodges are available in December for £30 a night. I'll see if any fellow casketeers are interested in a festive crawl in an impressive beer town.

Not yet

 

30/09/23 - The Plough at Ford, Gloucestershire

Who would have guessed what my First Good Beer Guide Pint for the 2024 Edition was?

No UK based walking blogs for a few weeks. We've been rambling in Portugal, fueled by Superbock. A member of our party was from Stow on the Wold and wasn't a fan of the brewery closest to his home.

This reminded me that its been two years since I walked the Donnington Way. Day 4 saw me walk past the Plough Inn at Ford too early for refreshment. 

A quick search through the reference material and I find a shortish walk - suitable for Mrs M and a Guide Dog in Training, Ivy. Mrs M keen for lunch out. Ivy keen for new fields to sniff at.

We head off, full of optimism that is cruelly shattered when Mrs M checks Google for the post code to be entered into a German Sat Nav. The Plough is closed for unspecified reasons for two weeks.

No worries, the Farmers Arms at Guiting Power is not too far from our planned destination. This pub was temporarily closed when I was on the 5 day walk. Between landlords. Mrs M checks opening hours.  All Good. Checks they do food. All good. Then she throws in the most unexpected news....

Donnington SBA will be my first GBG 2023 Pint

There's a turn-up. I haven't even started my cross ticking yet.

First the walk - The Plough at Ford leads directly to the Cotswold countryside. A frankly dull walk that is either along the edge of Jonjo O'Neills horse training gallops or through agricultural fields.  The paths are decent - the Gloucestershire Way out and the Diamond Way back.

2 attempts and the Plough at Ford remains unvisited

Most of the views have been like this today

Out of the three of us, I'd say Ivy enjoyed it the most.

Free running next to the cornfields

Have you ever tried to use the voice controlled Sat Nav input of a German Car to say "Guiting Power"?

Do you know what it says back to you when you yell "FFS!" after the forth attempt prompts the reply "I cannot find Guiding Powder in my database"?  To get its own back at my anglo saxon language, it takes us down roads with grass in the middle that lead to bolted gates on a private estate. Kamikaze guinea fowl testing the ABS. 

We are a little stressed by the time we make it to the busy village - but a combination of getting the final parking space and table in the pub cheers up our mood. Things could have been so much worse.

Ladders out to erect the "We are in it.... 2024 GBG" Sign

It's all as expected from 5 days of walking between their tied house. A handsome pub. Very plain beer. I asked the Landlord if the brewery had sent any acknowledgement to their CAMRA endorsement. They hadn't but they certainly should. Talk about defying the odds. The SBA perfectly kept but as devoid of taste as I remember.

2024 Kicks Off

And my taste buds are working fine. It took me three bites to determine the "Pie of Day" - steak and ale, according to our server - was in fact chicken.

It was damn fine. Pastry crust top, bottom and side.  

A pie, not a lie.

Walk Details

Distance - 6 Miles

Geocaches - 1

Walk Inspiration - Cotswold Rambles, Red Book, Walk 8