Showing posts with label Sussex. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sussex. Show all posts

Sunday, 24 May 2026

24/05/26 - Kingston, Near Lewes

No Juggs for us

The heatwave is not abating. Social media is full of people berating irresponsible dog walkers. How would you like to walk barefoot on hot coals? In a fur coat?

So through common sense, rather than worrying about being a social pariah, we are up very early and out on the trail before the midday sun. Good news for the dogs, bad news for the drinkers. I pass two pubs, where my contribution to pubsgalore.co.uk will be uploading photographs.

At least the walk is a beauty.... a climb of Swanborough Hill to retrace forgotten steps on the South Downs Way before dropping down to Rodmell for the return walk in the hill's shadow.

Swanborough Hill
Work completed - Swanborough Hill Climbed, Kingston Below
South Downs Way
Back on the South Downs Way - Pre Breakfast
Rodmell
House hunting in Rodmell

A gorgeous walk - now let's look at what we could have won.  Rodmell has the inappropriately named Abergavenny Arms - used as a water stop. We admired the steaks from £13 A Frame Board, but with the broken glass in the front door, wondered whether this might be advertising from a bygone age.

More intriguing was The Juggs, such a great name for a pub and incredibly, unique in the country.

Let's not get too upset at missing out. 

Shepherd's Neame.

The Juggs, Kingston
C15th, half tiled and I hear the only cask is Sussex Best

Walk Details

Distance - 6.5 miles

Geocaches - 3

Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine, February 2008, Walk 4 

Saturday, 23 May 2026

23/05/26 - Rottingdean and into Brighton

For Two More Good Beer Guide Ticks

We are staying at the far eastern extremities of Brighton. Just where the city runs out and its all private schools (Roedean), rolling hills and pretty villages that end in "dean".

With the unexpected heatwave, we are up and out early to take the dogs to visit Ovingdean and Rottingdean, returning to base via Undercliffe.

Too early for pubs but not breakfast, I'll have to add the afternoon pub ticking onto the blog to make it worth-(my)-while.

Ovingdean
Ovingdean Church - Doors Closed
Rottingdean Windmill
Rottingdean Windmill
Seafront at Rottingdean
Rottingdean - a Story Telling Area
The Undercliff
A rare image of Undercliff, without Pain in the Arse Cyclists

The dogs aren't really keen on built up areas, so we park them at home to head out to Brighton to see if I can add to Good Beer Guide Ticks I gained on a grim winter's afternoon in 2025.

More walking, but at least Mrs M can entertain herself by keeping a running count of how many people she spots with purple hair.

The Brighton Bierhaus is the first port of call. Classic pub architecture, with the purpose built alehouse built in the 1830s and formerly known as the Thurlow Arms. It's been resurrected by the Brighton Bier Brewery and made "Craft".

Brighton Bierhaus
Mrs M recording purples in her app

With the temperature nudging the 30s, we take advantage of their German/Belgian offerings - the finest in the City. Hacker-Pschorr in a ceremonial chalice, after the kind barman pointed out the Rothaus was alcohol free.

We haven't got much time but on firing up Google Maps to find our next quarry, we notice the number one Brighton Tourist attraction. Far too many people use Quadrophenia Alley as a cut through to complete a comprehensively authentic recreation, so I console myself with a quick chant of "We are the Mods!"
Quadrophenia Alley
Knee Trembler

And Google Maps is required to find The Hole in the Wall. Tucked away off the seafront down Queensbury Mews, it claims to be Brighton's smallest pub. That don't impress us much. It's at least three times the size of Manchester's Circus Tavern.

Hole in the Wall, Brighton
Two roomer

It is a quality drinking den, with a chalk board of beers and ciders to work through if you have time and a fine selection of snacks. Two flavours of Nik-Naks.

Hole in the Wall, Brighton
Germans all round - Flensburger and Ayinger. Plus Taytos.

Walk Details

Distance - 9 Miles in total, 5 on the plotted walk

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration - AA 1001 Walks, Walk 240

Friday, 22 May 2026

22/05/26 - Lewes, for Mount Caburn

Sussex Best

There was never going to be much debate on where to start our latest walking break.

Lewes - a town full of history, birthplace of revolutionaries, satirical bonfires and the home of the unique taste of Sussex.

Harvey's Brewery, Lewes
A Beaut

This is the Harvey's Brewery - a classic Victorian brewery, which can trace its roots back to 1790. Harvey's Sussex Best happily sits in my top 5 beers, although much more work needs to be completed to calculate the final rankings.

A pint will be a reward for completing an out of town walk at the start of the 2026 mini heatwave. This country is nuts. Last week, I was forced - under the threat of violence - to turn the heating back on in the Midlands.

A matter of moments, and we leave the busy town behind to complete a classic "downs" walk - up and across the golf course, before reaching lush agricultural landscape, with plenty of chalkland clefts and ups and downs. The photos don't do justice to the remoteness or the beauty. Mount Caburn is the target, a grassy dome of a hill that hosted an iron age hillfort. 

Marching to Caburn Fort
The current Mrs M, Child #2 and borrowed doggies on the way to Mount Caburn
The Downs
More chalk uplands

Easy peasy and back into town to determine which of the 8 Good Beer Guide Ticks should get the Mappiman Dollar. The John Harvey Tavern ticks all the boxes;

  • Tap room for the brewery
  • Opposite the brewery shop
    • T-shirts too cyan to suit my complexion
    • But I was tempted by an out of season Christmas Ale
  • Sussex Best and all of its mates on cask
    • Although the Best was gravity fed
  • Dog Friendly
  • Food available
    • An offer on Friday fish and chips
The John Harvey
We chose well

If only we had come on the bus - I could have told you about the other 7 available venues.


Walk Details

Distance - 5 miles

Geocaches - 1

Walk Inspiration - AA Walks Through History Walk 29

Monday, 1 September 2025

01/09/25 - The Anchor Bleu, Bosham

Local Legends and Lunch

Not too much to say about the walk. It was perfect for our needs, but little of interest is passed as we navigate agricultural fields to Fishbourne and then head back along a tide-out coast.

Duck pond at Bisham
Fishbourne's Duck Pond
Coast Walk into Bosham
The Coastal Path....
Coast Walk into Bosham
.... Leads into Bosham

And what an interesting place Bosham is. Full of myths and legends, some actually discovered during investigation of the two dominant structures - the church and the pub.

Legend 1 - A Roman Port

The area has been inhabited since Roman times and was once known as Magnus Portus (“great port”), as recorded in Ptolemy’s Geography. The Roman legacy includes remains like a temple, mosaic, theatre, and the remarkable “Bosham Head” — a huge stone sculpture likely of Emperor Trajan — now housed in Chichester museum.

Legend 2 - Anglo-Saxon & Ecclesiastical Beginnings

Bede noted that in 681 Bishop Wilfrid found a small monastery in Bosham led by Dicul, an Irish monk. A church followed in AD 850, and by the 10th century, the present Holy Trinity Church stood — built atop possible Roman remains. The church retains Saxon features in its lower tower and chancel and underwent expansions in Norman and later periods.

The church doors were open and full of tourists. What a special place;

Bosham Church
Close up on Entry
Bosham Church
Rough-hewn stone walls and a crypt to investigate
Bosham Church
C11th Saxon Font

Legend 3 - King Canute's Daughter

Legend says King Canute’s young daughter drowned in a nearby millstream and was buried in the church. In 1865, a small stone coffin was found in the nave, reviving this tale — though its authenticity remains uncertain.

Legend 4 - The Bosham Bell

One enduring legend tells of Danish pirates stealing the church’s tenor bell, only for it to break free at sea and sink the ship — it now lies in “Bell Hole” amid the harbour. Today, locals claim the bell’s muffled toll still answers the church bells during ringing. Bosham Sailing Club even features this bell imagery in its burgee, celebrating the legend.

Legend 5 - King Harold and the Bayeux Tapestry

Bosham features prominently in the Bayeux Tapestry, showing Harold (Earl of Wessex) riding to Bosham church in 1064 before his voyage to Normandy. His association with the village fuels speculation that he might be buried there; in 1954, alongside the child’s coffin, another coffin with a richly dressed man was found — but exhumation was refused in 2004.

With a recreation displayed on the Church Wall;

Bosham Church
Eye Eye - It's King Harold

Which leaves the pub. From the name alone, I had high hopes for the Anchor Bleu - from the pub sign, I would say named after a sailing vessel. It wears its 300-year history well, with low ceilings and flagged stone floors. Catering for lunch time foodies, we meet a rarity in British Hospitality. There are no sandwiches on the menu, but they check with the chef and we are offered a choice of three. Brilliant.

The only other surprise is that it's not in the Good Beer Guide. Four interesting and unusual cask ales - My Arundel Brewery Sussex Gold was in perfect condition. I can only assume the tide was out when the local CAMRA's were on the prowl.

In the end, we chose off the menu and Mrs M - of notoriously high lunch standards - declared it the best quiche she had ever tasted.

A fitting end to our last "proper" walk from our week's base in Hayling Island.

Anchor Bleu, Bosham
How could you not fall in love?


Walk Details

Distance - 5.25 Miles

Geocaches - 1

Walk Inspiration - Pub Walks for Motorists, Kent, Surrey and Sussex, Walk 25

Sunday, 31 August 2025

31/08/25 - The Kings Arms, Arundel

Halfway to Horsham

Arundel is rather special, isn't it? Never been before, you cannot not notice the castle from the railway and the South Downs Way.

Today is our first actual visit. A family reunion with the Boy, but no histrionics. We only saw him two days ago. We are based on South Hayling and he is at his partners in Horsham. Arundel marks the halfway spot between us.

Family Reunion
Family Reunion. Borrowed Dogs.

Arundel is a historic market town in West Sussex, set on a steep rise above the River Arun at the edge of the South Downs. Its strategic location made it an important defensive site from early times, with the imposing Arundel Castle—founded by Roger de Montgomery in the 11th century after the Norman Conquest—dominating the skyline. The town’s position by the Arun made it a centre for trade and navigation, while its medieval streets, inns, and later Georgian and Victorian buildings reflect its long development as both a stronghold and a place of commerce.

A choice of walks, that start on the same riverside paths along the Arun. 45 minutes into the walk, we have a choice of the short (more time for exploring pubs and bakeries) or long.

We chose the short - finding Swanbourne Lake and associated picnic areas, the Monarchs Way and a  suitable picnic spot in Arundel Park. We cannot afford the £35 a head beef roast dinners at the originally considered Black Rabbit pub. Humus and carrot batons on a log will suffice until cake.

Entering Arundel Parl
Today's Terrain - Wonderful walking

Into town for an Adventure Lab Cache to show the historical sites. The Cathedral Church is positioned in a way that I could take up organised religion.

Cathedral Church, Arundel
What a magnificent spot for a pub

Its St Nicholas, opposite that is explored internally.

St Nicholas Church, Arundel
Dani says we could be in Tuscany
St Nicholas Church, Arundel
Inside St Nicholas

Panel Frieze, St Nicholas Church, Arundel
Two angels holding the train of Mary the Virgin - whitewashed in the Reformation

This could become a never-ending photo blog, as the town is so pretty. We tour the medieval streets, facing the tricky choice of which of the half a dozen bakeries should supplement lunch.

Liquid refreshment is much easier. Not only is the King's Arms the only Good Beer Guide tick in town, it is also the oldest. Slightly out of the tourist town, this allows for a good honest boozer, with keen (for the area) pricing and a choice of four cask ales. Narrowed down to HSB or Jail Ale, my desire was at odds with what I blurted out. What am I doing drinking Devon beer in Sussex?

Kings Arms, Arundel
End of a perfect day

We say our goodbyes - for us, it is an afternoon throwing a tennis ball for an overactive Fox Red Labrador that must have ADHD. For them, its three games of Premier League football - as it's International Break next week.

25% less people are likely to be on the next reunion.

Walk Details


Distance - 5 Miles

Geocaches - One Adventure Lab Cache

Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine from OS Maps Web Site

Friday, 29 August 2025

29/08/25 - Thorney Island Circumnavigation

Intercom Access - "Please state your business"


There is something deeply satisfying about walking the coast of a small island, where navigation could hardly be simpler: just keep the sea on one side and the land on the other.

Thorney Island
This week's borrowed dogs - Rocket and Chilli

Thorney Island, in Chichester Harbour, is today's walk. The public are not allowed on the inside of the island, as this is Ministry of Defence land. Happily, the Sussex Border Path runs completely around the exterior.

Thorney Island’s military history begins in the late 1930s, when its flat, open landscape was chosen as the site for an airfield. RAF Thorney Island opened in 1938 and quickly became an important Coastal Command base during the Second World War, with squadrons flying patrols over the Channel and the western approaches to guard against U-boats and enemy aircraft. It remained active through the war and into the Cold War era, hosting transport and search-and-rescue squadrons. In 1976, after nearly four decades of RAF use, the base was handed over to the Army and became home to the Royal Artillery. Today, it remains a Ministry of Defence site, officially closed to the public except for a controlled coastal footpath.

Access to the coastal path requires communication. On the West and East side of the island are "Checkpoint Charlies" where an intercom button is pressed. You need to state your business here, and like the regulars in the Slaughtered Lamb, you are told to "Stick to the Paths".

In the main, that is all there is. A thin path, with salt marshes one side, and military installations on the other. Frequent warning signs, and not always the most expected.

Thorney Island
Stick to the Path, Boys
Thorney Island
Latest Military Weapon - Brown Tail Moth Caterpillas

Apart from sea views, the major point of interest is the medieval settlement of West Thorney. Most of it is off-limits, but the austere church is right on the coast path and with a sign proclaiming "Church Open", it would be remiss not to explore further.

Thorney Island
Doors Open
Thorney Island
Sermon of the Day
Thorney Island
Norman Font

Once explored - it's splendid isolation for the rest of the circuit. Us, borrowed dogs and the seabirds.

Walk Details


Distance - 7 Miles

Geocaches - 1

Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine, Jan 2009, Walk 4

Wednesday, 18 June 2025

18/06/25 - The Good Beer Guide Pubs of Hastings, Sussex

Celebrating the End of the Saxon Shore Way

Nice to end something where there is the chance to celebrate. Hastings, a four Good Beer Guide Town, with the Dolphin practically at the end of the Long Distance Path. I believe the official end is at the pier. I made my official end here, with an apt Harvey's Sussex Best (water chaser).

A pleasant enough nautically themed traditional pub, with seaward facing outdoor seating to see the sights. Everyone likes to see a goth teenager taken on a family seaside holiday.

Last Pint of the Saxon Shore Way
Final Pint of the Saxon Shore Way
The Dolphin, Hastings
Moments ago, I was on that cliff.

The Albion is a finely named traditional boozer, attracting rather a young and alternative clientele. Despite the many facial tattoos, it bizarrely seemed to be popular with diners. Must have been the pies. Another Sussex Best, a pint that I cannot get tired with.

The Albion, Hastings
Seafront Boozer - the Albion

The Jenny Lind is halfway along the old high street, which has some wonderful architecture. Another traditional and my pub of the night. Lots of cask ales on, but I took the opportunity to maximise the units per pound ration by having a final Biddenden cider on hand-pull. Taught the way to pronounce it properly. Biddies.

The Jenny Lind, Hastings
Three trads.... Micro Coming Up
The Jenny Lind, Hastings
Biddies in a Trad

There had to be a micro pub. The Fishermans Arms rather pretty from the outside and like good micros should, offering some interesting draught brews. Straffe Hendricks Tripel a welcome, but unexpected find.

The Jolly Fisherman, Hastings
Seduced by the advertising

A quick mention about my evening meal. Who would have thought the best Thai food I have ever had would be consumed in a book shop? Not without confusion..... cash only, set menu price of £25, they charge £2 corkage for drinks you take the top off yourself. I left £30 on the table only to be chased down the street like a criminal. Somehow, I was 15p short. A mandatory service charge applied.

Remember Mr Fiddler from Carry on Camping? I think he has opened a book shop. That does Thai food.
 

18/06/25 - Saxon Shore Way - Stage 11 - Rye to Hastings

Saxon Shore Way (SSW) Complete

The final day on the Saxon Shore Way - with the Royal Military Canal delivering me to the sea-side for a spectacular conclusion.

Camber Castle
Hunting for the Royal Military Canal at Camber Castle
Sea views at Cliff End
Sea View opening out at Cliff End

Typically for the SSW, there are no refreshment stops on the way. Not close enough to Winchelsea. Nothing passed at Fairlight Cove. Hastings Country Park simply providing some unneeded ups and downs.

To be fair, entering Hastings from on high - and ignoring the cliff railway - is a fitting end to 11 days and 160+ miles. 

Into Hastings
Hastings - Tonight's playground

As this is a rather brief blog, I may as well complete the summary.

The SSW has taken me through many new towns - Rochester, Faversham, Whitstable, (a diversion to) Margate, Sandwich, Deal, Folkestone, Rye and Hastings. My favoutite had to be Folkestone. Very much admired the arty vibe and what they have done with the Harbour Arm. A model for investment in the leisure economy for any local authority.

The pubs - so many micros, some doing it better than others. A unforgettable experience at the East Cliff Tavern in Folkestone. I can guarantee that this won't be repeated should I ever be lucky enough to visit again. Time waits for no man. 

The beer was that good that I moved onto cider. Thankfully Shepherd Neame disappeared after the first half and by the time I reached the edges of Sussex, Harvey's Best was found in plentiful supply. Goachers and Gadds new breweries. Cask Jaipur for £2.29 a pint became the beer of the second half thanks to the JDW promotion.

The walking improved in the second half. Progress through the Medway towns was slow, as they merge into one. The coastal walks into Deal and Hastings were wonderful. The inland sections of the coastline from 2000 years ago were largely devoid of refreshment stops. We'll not mention trying to cross Dover on foot.

Would I do it again? There is no need, but I would like to revisit the area to walk from Margate to Ramsgate.

Walk Details


Distance - 12 Miles

Geocaches - 13

Tuesday, 17 June 2025

17/06/25 - Some of the Pubs in Rye, East Sussex

48 Hours in Rye

If I could have my time again, I would chose to do this on a Thursday. The Ypres Castle, a long time destination pub, doesn't open until the end of the week. 

Ypre Castle, Rye
Handsome, Hidden and Closed 

There is still plenty to discover, pub-wise. The only surprise for such an ancient pubby town is that only one place, the Waterworks, is in the Good Beer Guide.  Let's see what I found over the two nights - from the worst to the best.

I may have simply picked the Globe Marsh Inn on a bad day. Having found plenty of Harvey's Sussex Best over the two days, I know exactly what it is meant to look and taste like. The unholy mess that I was served here did not even need to be sampled. Straight back to the bar, changed and pump clip reversed, apology accepted. Alas, the next pint, a Romney Amber, looked exactly the same. How many times can a man take a pint back before being banned? I simply struggled through it, sat outside in a busy nautically themed foody pub. Moaning to myself.

Globe Inn Marsh, Rye
Shame, as it is pretty

Late on night 1, but still not dark, I ventured into the Ship Inn at 9:30pm for a half of Long Man Best Bitter. Nothing going on, and the staff were obviously keen to get home. They told a group of three German's that last orders had been called at the frankly bizarre time of 9:45pm and they wouldn't be served. I saw them forlornly walking the dark streets later and apologised on behalf of British Hospitality. The next group to be refused service 5 minutes later unsuccessfully played the "even to residents?" card after being refused service. I almost got involved in the row, but needed to use google to check the law first.

The Ship Inn, Rye
Need to work on the hospitality side of hospitality

A slight improvement at The Old Bell. A sign claiming it to be Rye's oldest pub but I am sure the Mermaid would like a word. A nice line in Greek Food, which I could take advantage of on the second night. I just needed to track down bar staff to serve an excellent Harvey's. One staff member running the bar, the table clearing and the waitressing.

A nice patio out front to watch the world go by and determine how to get to the Mermaid.

The Old Bell, Rye
Harvey's in the Oldest

Turns out the little cobbled alley opposite does take you right to the door to this old hotel, with two bars and a little courtyard. Liveried staff running around looking after the diners. I thought that £2.50 for a half of excellent Harvey's was a small entrance fee to such a museum of a place.

The Mermaid, Rye
The Way to the Mermaid
The Mermaid, Rye
May not be everyone's cup of tea, but I loved it

Which leaves the Waterworks for the Good Beer Guide Tick. A micro housed in the you guessed it.

Exactly how a micro should be. A wide range of interesting drinks. Served by knowledgeable and super friendly staff. Quirky decor, signage and joke facilities.

Having had my fill of gravity poured ales during the many micros of Kent, I moved onto the Cider... working my way through 3 pints over 2 visits. Blogfans will know I had company on night 2

They have reported home to Mrs M that I have started drinking out of flagons. I could almost hear the tutting from Worcestershire.

The Waterworks, Rye
Take your pick - I worked the right hand column
The Waterworks, Rye
Pubrules - we all like Air Con
The Waterworks, Rye
From Flagon to Glass
Waterworks, Rye
Closest I have come to pulling a pint