29/05/21 - Hospitality goes wrong at the John O'Gaunt - Hungerford

Good Beer Guide Tick - #551

Beers - Vale Brewery Gravitas, Elusive Brewing Mechanism

After an afternoon in Newbury, the Good Beer Guide Ticks keep on coming.  A stones throw from our Greene King Hotel is West Berkshire's CAMRA Pub of the Year.

In the interest of balance, I would like to state that I would happily return to the John O'Gaunt.  This blog is going to sound like a moan but as a punter, I have learned a bit of patience is required.  

Even when we reach Fawlty Towers levels of service.

What a Pub of the Year looks like

Despite its imposing interior, its a little anti-tardis inside.  With low ceilings and entrance via a small corridor, its actually appears smaller inside than out.

We were met by the landlord and offered a seat inside or out, but once we had the tour, there was only one choice.  Experiencing their garden is akin to how the kids felt when they went exploring in the wardrobe that lead to Narnia.

Its a delight of high quality tee-pees, with individually controlled heaters.  Each table has a collection of blankets, the seats are fur topped.

The first mistake we made was by choosing a table next to a lemon jump-suited, "only way is Essex" reject who must have been on the porn star martini's since lunch.  My mastermind specialist subject is her life, as she spent our entire visit screeching it to the table of strangers on the next table.

Once seated, we eventually got hold of a drinks menu and 15 minutes later, an average Vale Brewery was delivered.  Probably no fault of the beer or how it was kept, through lockdown I seem to have lost my taste for traditional Pales and Golds.

So far - So Ok.

All smiles at this point

So what went well, what went wrong? To summarise, Mrs Ms romanic night consisted of 2 hours and 45 minutes of staring at a table adorned with a knife and fork, with only the occasional gin to alleviate the misery.

Here's the details for those I haven't lost in a blog of misery.

When re-negotiating the bill, we had a a good chat with the landlord's daughter.

She told us exactly what the media have been saying.  They cannot get hospitality staff and recruiting non-experienced people who are furloughed from other careers.  The girl who had taken our order and gone home is an Air Hostess.

There's nowhere to escape when she makes a cock up in her day job.  Although the consequences are potentially more serious than a fat Brummie not getting his meatballs.

Role on the (Original Plan) for June 21st. 

29/05/21 - (Some of) The Good Beer Guide Pubs of Newbury

Good Beer Guide Ticks - 548-550

Approaching Newbury on the Avon and Kennet Canal, we were greeted by the grizzled old seadog, operating the electric swing bridge.   

"Are you coming across?" - he shouted, before pressing go and cutting off the opposite bank until we had at least walked another 50m.

"Is the Good Pub on that side?" - I replied - which was met with "Yes, its the best pub in Newbury.  And also the most expensive".

He was correct.   It was a Fullers House - who need to make money since they stopped the brewing.

Lock, Stock and Barrel, Northbrook Street, ESB

Technically, still on the Walk from Hungerford

Nothing - and I mean nothing would be stopping me from my first cask ESB of 2021.

Not the velvet rope.

Not the man asking if we had booked.

Not the thought of taking out a second mortgage.

Negotiation with "The Man" - who left us at the rope to watch him de-fumigate -  and we were offered a little table under the right hand umbrella you can see in the above photo. 

I left Mrs M to work out the App booking and went in search of facilities.

My return was both greeted with a prime example of what I had been missing and a cry of "£11.50".

TBF, her Stowford Press was more expensive

The Catherine Wheel, Cheap Street, Otter Ale

A pork pie on a bench (don't ask, I forgot to include a lunch stop on the walk) and an amble through the pretty town that is Newbury.  Less thirsty punters would have stopped to peruse the street market but I was on a mission to get the three good ticks before the 15:03 train.

To explain - the micro - the Cow and Cask - although easily on route would not have presented the most socially distanced of experiences and there probably would have been low odds of gaining entrance in any case.  Regular blogfans will now that Mrs M will not cross the threshold of a JDW.

So this left the Cathernine Wheel - a fine traditional pub, that we briefly saw as we were shown to a rather charming courtyard.  Observations?  No one wants the news on the 65" screen when they go for a pint.  Its all 3rd Wave this, Prince Harry that.

The footpath was narrow.  The road was busy.

A menu was presented and if the sun was over the yard arm, I may have experimented with bottles of 10% Belgian Dancing Juice.

Otter in a Good Old Boy Glass

Instead, I settled on a unexpectedly thin Otter Ale.  I suspect gravity fed barrels but have little proof.

Mrs M found a dog - and its owner to talk to.  She explained that we were ticking off the good beer guide pubs - which he found more fascinating that the reaction normally elicited.  He may be the next ticker, as despite living in Newbury for 16 years, he was unaware of the Cow and Cask.

He agreed with us about JDW - where he had previously been chucked out for sitting at a pavement table outside with his dog.  He recommended the next pub, the KC and gave us the lingo that meant we would be accepted by the regulars.

The King Charles, Cheap Street, Exmoor Ale

This is all going swimmingly well, this is both a short distance away and we are making our way to the station.

But wait - Mrs M spots a problem.   "Aren't Greene King Pubs a bit shite?" she asks.

Sometimes I don't know whether she is joining in with the pub ticking a little too hard.

Eezer Goode...  Mrs M spotting danger signs

Anyone who had tasted Greene King IPA would surely agree with Mrs M, but I am reasonably sure that this was not on offer.

Instead, on our side of the bar, we had a choice of many of the West Country's finest.  Dartmoor Jail Ale, Wickwar Bob and Exmoor Ale.  It felt like we were on our holidays.

Pub Ticking - 2021 Style

Train tickets ordered from the above table - with realisation that a 12 minute journey for two could have bought a round at the Lock Stock and we are whisked away for a freshen up before tea at West Berkshire Pub of the Year.

Lovely afternoon - but will the evening continue in the same vein?  Future blog to report.

29/05/21 - Hungerford to Newbury on the Kennet and Avon Canal

Distance - 9 Miles

Geocaches - 3

 

It was all Greene King's fault.  They sent me a bargain offer for the Bear Hotel in Hungerford and I knew there was a walk that I wanted to do.  A review of my extensive to-do list revealed that this was the canal walk to Newbury and return on the train.

I'm not a massive fan of canal walks but I am a sucker for a linear walk that returns on public transport.  I also expected a high number of canal side pubs.

So I accepted their generous offer and with good weather promised, Mrs M decided she liked the sound of it.

The Walk

Navigation couldn't be easier and at times, where you walk with the Kennet to your left and the canal to your right, its very pretty. 

I should have really completed more research first.  If I want to do all 87 miles of the canal - and who knows, I may live long enough - I probably should have started at Reading.  Or Bath.  Instead, I have ticked off a middle section.  

Also - a quick look at the map would have revealed little civilisation (read pubs).  There was one on route - a passed by too early Dundas Arms in Kintbury - a mere 2.5 miles into the walk.

But fear not, Newbury has 5 Good Beer Guide entries to explore - worthy of a separate blog.  

Leaving Hungerford and finding the Canal

Arriving in Kintbury

Blossoms

Arrival into Newbury

The Bear, Hungerford

Exceeded expectations.  Its an old coaching house, which claims to date back to the C13th.  It would appear to have been closed down for a while before a re-fit and reopening.

There's a pretty little courtyard for outdoor drinking and some vague interpretation of the rules, that were leaving other punters perplexed.  I asked how the system worked to a young couple on the next table and they said "You order a drink and then wait 30 minutes for it to arrive".

If only it was that simple.  In reality, you went inside, found a man - who then said I will come with you to your table to take your order.  Which he did.  And then said I had to come back to the bar to pay for my drink.  Which I was then able to collect.  So it was kind of like the good old days, when you go to a bar and see what is on offer and order appropriately.

And what was appropriate - a rather decent Timothy Taylor Landlord.

The room was fantastic - spacious, with a lovely bathroom and a view from the bedroom window to CAMRA West Berkshire's Pub of the Year.  

Which Mrs M had the foresight to book at table for tea.  Results of which to follow.

See if you can spot who booked John O' Gaunt

26/01/18 - London Countryway Stage 11 - Windsor to Marlow

Distance - 15 Miles
Start - Windsor
Finish - Marlow
Geocaches - 12
Pubs - Kings Arms, Cookham and the Butchers Tap, Marlow
Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10


Stage 11 of the London Countryway, the longest walk and quite a different feel to the previous stages.   Starting at Windsor, I pick up the Thames Path and stick to it.   A whole day of river walking, with the only exception a short climb onto Winter Hill.

It's kind of a shame to leaving Windsor immediately after arriving.  Its a short hop from the Central station down to the river and over the pedestrian bridge to Eton, shedding a tear that 9am on a Saturday morning is too early for a Good Beer Guide tick at the George.

Still, the view from the opposite side of the river is impressive.

Windsor Castle from the North Bank

Route finding is not going to be an issue today.  Fortunately, I have a combination of plentiful geocaches and some magnificent architecture to admire.   The houses on the riverbank on the way to Maidenhead are stunning.   And if a new purchaser doesn't like the architecture, they simply pull the old house down and build one they do like.

Geocaching on the Thames Path

A hotel, next to Bray Studios (where they filmed all the Good Hammer Horrors)

Less Care spent on their boats

Coming into Maidenhead

Timings continue to be wrong as I cross the Bridge into Maidenhead.   It's 2.5 hours since I left Windsor and I am both ready for a break and have completed my research.   The Grenfell Arms is another potential Good Beer Guide tick that's a 1/2 mile detour from the route.   Alas, this opens at 12pm, so not wanting to wait 30 minutes, its a sad tale of washing my sarnies down with water.  At last it takes my mind off the only bit of road walking completed today.

The next stretch is described by the Geocache listings as the finest part of the whole of the Thames Path.   I'd only caveat that with the bit through the City but its probably correct.   There's a series of weirs, islands and the hanging gardens of Cliveden on the opposite side to marvel at.   I finished the walk with a burning desire to re-read Jerome K Jerome's "Three Men in a Boat".

Thames Path upstream of Maindenhead is a delight

The next town is Cookham.   I may not be able to afford to live there but I can just about afford to have a drink there.   Its a beautiful place with plenty of refreshment options that I narrow down to a choice between the Bel and Dragon and the Kings Arms.   Both ancient and handsome but the Kings Arms has better advertising.

Rebellion IPA sold in the Kings Arms.  £4.40 a Pint

But is was £4.40 well spent

A lovely old C17th Coaching house with a roaring fire and a friendly landlord who took an interest in my travels.   He also reminded me that Marlow is where the Rebellion Brewery is, although to be fair, there is a clue on the glass.   This could be added to the end of the trip, should I get bored of hunting Tom Kerridge.   He's much better at hide and seek these days.

Onwards and upwards for the final leg..... literally, as I have the only climb of the day to Winter Hill.  It promises more than it delivers.  The OS Map signifies a viewpoint but you can't see much through the trees.

Cock Marsh outside of Cookham

Winter Hill Views

I've not been to Marlow before and I'm pleased the route creator, Keith Chesterton, chose this place as the leaving point to enter the Chilterns.   Its a much bigger town than I expected and crossing the stunning suspension bridge next to the church raises the spirits when you are on weary legs, 14 miles into a trek.

Crossing into Marlow

View from the Bridge

Much as Rick Stein is synonymous with Padstow, Tom Kerridge appears to own Marlow.   I had a long conversation on the train in about whether the Hand and Flowers would be suitable for a man that is would only be interested in a Michelin starred restaurant if the beer is good.  Google maps showed it as Greene King, so this is unlikely.    My fellow passenger reeled off all the places in town that Tom owns and suggested that the Butcher's Tap might be more up my street.

This triggered memories from an article in the Times about how the butchers shop continues as a pub.  I had to investigate.

Doing what it says on the Tin

I'm not sure what this says about the other pubs in Marlow but it is packed.   And its exactly what you would expect.   A long refrigerated butchers display - with some outstanding looking joints - runs one length of the shop.  In the middle of the bar/fridge unit, are two hand pulls, alongside a chiller containing sausage rolls that even the hardiest #DryJanuary self denier would struggle to resist.   The shop's opposite side is a packed house of occupied traditional pub tables.

I was forced to share seating arrangement but there was only enough meat based pastry snacks for one.

Tightly packed punters meant I was closer to my Rebellion Gold than I would have liked

It looks like Tom has hit on a winning formula.

01/12/18 - Good Beer Guide Ticking in Windsor

There's nothing finer than when all your hobbies combine.

The 10th Stage of the London Countryway, delivers me into Windsor.   And can there be a more spectacular entry into any town than the "Long Walk", coming down from the Copper Horse?

George III on his Copper Horse

The pubs are at the end of the Long Walk

The Corner House, 22 Sheet Street, Inspector Remorse, Electric Bear Brewing Company

A slight deviation from the Long Walk brings me to the first tick of the day.....  A impressive building that looks like its going to do what it says on the tin.... A pub in the corner.

Up close and Personal

Christmas Bar

Getting in the place proves slightly tricky.   The corner doors in the corner house stick.   The large glass windows make it easier to look out of than into and once inside, you can laugh at the others finding it impossible to gain access.   Several times, I hear the barman shout "the doors stick - keep pushing".

Anywhere else, a sign would be put up.   Probably got something to do with planning permission why this hasn't been actioned here.

My glasses steam up following the change in temperature from cold walk to warm surroundings.  Two men in Orange Marshall jackets emblazoned with the acronym APSE are mistaken as to who they represent.   On first viewing, I think you can guess who I thought they worked for.

My choice from the 10 handpulls was mainly because I am aiming to drink more Porter/Stout this winter and not because of its comedy name.

Inspector Remorse my Apse.

The Sticky Doors and my Inspector Remorse

Queen Charlotte, Church Lane, Black Sheep

The country's shortest street is in an area that contains a high volume of pubs.   A perfect escape from the tourist hordes.

Proof that its a tiny street

The Queen Charlotte

From the exterior and chalk written snack board (Wasabi Nuts and Olives, neither of which were dry roasted), you could describe this as an unlikely entry into the Good Beer Guide.

We are firmly in the territory of GastroPub here.

My Untappd check in of Black Sheep caused Mrs M to mistake good lacing with a monster head.

I made my exit before weights and measures had been informed - but not before a photo of the a grand vista from the pub loos.

Winner of Pub Loo View 2018

The Carpenters Arms, Market Street, London Pride

This traditional Nicholson's pub has more of a claim to being in the Country's shortest street.

The Real Thing

And I was never going to cross the threshold without wondering whatever happened to Ashby's Ales.  One minute, you are a greeting, the next a forgotten relic akin to Hofmeister.

All Hail Ashby's Ales

The bay window provided a perfect vantage point to view the Reindeer Parade.

The London Pride was pint of the day.

The Acre awaits for another visit and before the Good Beer Guide in Windsor can be marked as "Complete".

Only bettered by ESB

I'd had enough to drink today.   The building opposite looked straight.

Its fine, honest

01/12/18 - London Countryway Stage 10 - Sunningdale to Windsor

Distance - 8 Miles
Start - Sunningdale
Finish - Windsor
Geocaches - 7
Pubs - Three Good Beer Guide Ticks in a Separate Blog
Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9

The half way point of the London Countryway and it seems a good time to take stock.  Last December, I set off from Gravesend, vowing to make a monthly trip to the Smoke to knock off the individual stages.   I never expected that following a 30 year guide book would be so rewarding.   

It's exceeding both the Capital Ring and the London Loop - similar walking endeavours, encircling the capital. 

I've had the hop fields of Kent, Neolithic burial tombs, Medieval manor houses, the joy of walking the Greensands Way and North Downs Way through vineyards and the Surrey hills.   The paths have been excellent (and thankfully still there) and surprisingly, when you consider it's in the South East, a huge variety of wild terrain.   Woodland, vast expanses of common land, ancient sunken paths and  waterways.   Roads are rarely crossed, let alone walked.

It's the sheer variety of walking that make this route such a joy.

And today's leg adds something else, former Royal Hunting grounds, man made imitation Scottish Lochs and a little bit of Tripoli are tacked onto to the list.

Sunningdale Station is left behind to pick up the back alleys of this exclusive enclave of expensive housing.   All gated properties and when I cross a sports ground, of course its a Polo pitch.

The aim is Virginia Water - somewhere I've not walked before.  It was created to represent a Scottish Loch.  The man who commissioned it, the Duke of Cumberland, must have really enjoyed his involvement in the battle of Culloden Moor.   A battle so brutal it earned him the nickname "The Butcher" and forced a lot of 80s schoolchildren to watch documentaries on it.  I can still hear the voiceover repeating "severed below the knee".

Today, its a fine place for dog walking and Geocachers.

A first glimpse of Virginia Water

A notable Geocache is at Leptis Magna.  Unexpectedly, in a particularly leafy part of Berkshire, are the ruins of a Roman temple, stolen from Libya in the early 1800s.   English Imperialism at its finest.  For the Geocache, I have to collect the information from notice boards to find the treasure's location.

Plunder

Another Multi Cache available using information from the "Cascade"

After large spells of splendid isolation on the London Countryway, Great Windsor Park is packed with people enjoying the wood land and valley gardens.  Always something unexpected around the corner - whether its a Santa race or a 100 ft Totem Pole.

A gift from the Canada to the Queen in 1958.

The final highlight is the Copper Horse and the Long Walk.   I've been here before and its a hell of sight - although you do need better conditions than those experienced today to really appreciate it.  I have the horse to myself, making a lovely, if not slightly damp, stop off point for lunch.

Approaching from the South through the gloom

Mappiman's Lunch Spot

I'm not exactly sure how long the long walk is.   I'm tempted to describe it as "never ending".  It certainly feels it when you can see the entire route ahead in an unobstructed view of Windsor Castle and knowing that the Good Beer Guide pubs of Windsor (four for the thirsty) await at the end of the days walking.

Normally, my blogs end in the pub - but with this much work to do in Windsor, it's worthy of a separate entry.

Usually more handsome than this

Getting Closer

A last Windsor Glimpse before heading back to Waterloo

I'm half way through and I'm already excited as to what will be discovered in 2019.

03/11/18 - London Countryway Stage 9 - West Byfleet to Sunningdale

Distance - 10 Miles
Start - West Byfleet
Finish - Sunningdale
Geocaches - 7
Pub - The Broomhall Hutt, Sunningdale
Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8


No one would have believed you could walk in England's South East and experience such wilderness.

In Stage 9 of the London Countryway, we cross from Surrey to Berkshire via two distinct landscapes - the urban oasis of the Basingstoke Canal and two commons, Horsell and Chobham.

Its a short distance from West Byfleet station to the Basingstoke Canal.  I've walked it before, last time turning right and heading for Weybridge.  Today, its left and towards Woking.   Pleasant walking seeing how many of the houses have accommodated the canals into the back gardens.  Private boat mooring inlets and extravagant decking with tree houses were admired for their owner's vision.

The canal was derelict when KC wrote the guide to the Countrway.   Nice to see that sometimes things do get better.

Easy Walking along the canal

A short length of road walking delivers me to the heavily wooded Horsell Common.  If the name sounds familiar, you've probably read the opening line of the blog in Richard Burton's voice. 
Location for the first martian attacks in War of the Worlds.

Yes, I was singing "the chances of anything coming from Mars...."

The link to the next common is via equestrian fields and skirting the edge of an airfield.  If I had been quicker on the camera draw, I could have provided an impressive take off photograph.  The footpaths run right at the end of the runway.

Instead, you can make do with a sign to live your life by.

Sound Sentiment 

Onto the most surprisingly of all the commons encountered today and on previous legs.  I've never heard of Chobham common before today and you don't expect such vast swathes of wild heath land to be present so close to London.   574 hectares, apparently.   It takes me a good 90 minutes to walk across it, encountering more birds than people.

Surrey Wilderness

The common butts right up against Sunningdale - the end station of today's walk.   Not really heard of Sunningdale either and the locals don't seem to refer to it by this name.  Both the pub and the OS Map are marked Broomhall.

I'd checked on Google Maps before heading off to see what post walk entertainment was available.  Nothing really came up, so I vowed to just see what was there when I arrived.

An Event

An unexpected pub

The Broomhall Hutt is geared up for diners.  Initially, I thought post walk thirst was to be sated by Doom Bar but closer inspection showed a Rebellion Brewery IPA.

Never sure of the quality of ale in establishments like this, I asked for a sample and was provided with a rather large 1/4 pint measure.   It was perfect.   And the sample helped top up and under poured pint.

Holiday's are coming!

The London Countryway keeps delivering... today was a beautiful and varied walk.