12/06/26 - On the Trail of..... Penda's Fen

Play for Today

Always on the lookout for new walking inspiration, I was intrigued when The Dispatch newspaper drew my attention to Penda's Fen. Alan Clarke's 1974 Play for Today—the same director who later made Scum and The Firm—is remarkable for more than just its storyline. In less than ninety minutes it tackles Christianity and paganism, sexuality, nuclear annihilation, working-class identity and the nature of England itself. The hyperlink provides a summary of the plot and its ongoing impact quite nicely.

More extraordinary still, it was broadcast on BBC1 at 9.30pm. At a time when there were only three television channels, the British public effectively had a choice: watch Penda's Fen or go to bed early.

Penda was the seventh-century Mercian ruler remembered as England's last great pagan king. The drama is set in Pinvin, near Pershore - a village whose name in Old English is Penda's Fen - although filming took place in Chaceley, across the River Severn from Tewkesbury in Gloucestershire.

The only walk I have in the area is from an old Country Walking Magazine. This, and some internet-based sleuthing to determine filming locations and a day out for exercise, followed the previous day on the sofa watching the DVD.

I start in the nearby village of Forthampton. In the play, The Vicar visits a parishioner on his death-bed to perform the last rites. I have my first location - an external shot of an impressive house opposite the church.

The last rites were shunned - the dying man happy that he had lived his life on earth

Forthampton Church is "doors open" and I am distracted before taking a step.

Forthampton Church

A Saxon Devil's Head above the front door - Other treasures include a rare stone altar and medieval pews

I'm off and away. The play's eeriness matched by an unchanged for centuries agricultural landscape, with many ancient dead and dying oaks hosting roosting corvids, which take cacophonous flight as I disturb them on approach. I am aiming for the weir at Upper Lode, with constant views of Tewkesbury Abbey on the opposite side of the River Severn.

Dead oaks and Tewkesbury Abbey in the far distance

The weir at Upper Lode

A long stretch of riverside walking passing a couple of pubs. I am too early for the Lower Lode Hotel and Yew Tree Inn, which marks the return inland. A road leads to Chaceley, the site of many of the filming locations.

The main characters family home at the Old Vicarage

The home of the TV scriptwriter

Chaceley Church features prominently - the main protagonist plays the organ there and during his crisis of faith, has a vision when the floor cracks and a voice is heard imploring "free me". It's "doors open" - with a sign saying to close the door behind otherwise birds will get in. There are already three ravens inside.

Chaceley Church

Church Organ

Another devil's head - in the keystone of the arch

Green lanes take me back to Forthhampton. I've been too early for the pubs found on route and nothing is to be found here. A remote good beer guide tick is available at the Railway Inn, Ripple. A 15-minute drive away.

Walk Details

Distance - 8 miles

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration - The Dispatch Newspaper and Country Walking Magazine, January 1995 Walk 12

10/06/26 - Madresfield Court

Brideshead Visited

Convoluted inspiration for today's trip. A 2 mile jaunt across the plains below the Malvern Hills can hardly be described as a walk. 

Today's Walking

The inspiration? I thought the Pevsner Guide to Worcestershire would help with my understanding of the county. As Jonathan Meades stated in an associated BBC documentary - Pevsner is really just a book of lists.  

Madresfield Court piqued my interest. I have walked on the footpaths surrounding it many times but never visited. The documentary told me the house, and the family, was the inspiration for the Evelyn Waugh book Brideshead Revisited. I've unsuccessfully read Waugh before but gave the 1980s TV show and the 2008 film a watch. 10 hours vs. 2 hours but both entertaining enough.

Madresfield Court

The house is in private ownership - and has been for centuries - but they do have open days in the summer. £17 invested and a further £6 in takeaway cake. I am signed up for my latest early-retirement attempt at entertainment. Visiting Stately Homes.

Who would have predicted it?

It's a 90 minute tour of a house packed to the rafters with better quality tat than I have amassed over the years. They have gorilla skeletons, skinned tigers and tortoiseshell sideboards. I have the world's finest collection of walking books and Windows 6.1 Mobile phones. 

Of all the rooms, it is the chapel that is most impressive. Access via the library (smelled wonderful), it is quite the spectacle of art and god's glory.

We can compare Waugh's description, delivered as Charles Ryder is shown around by the dipsomaniac, doomed homosexual, teddy-bear-carrying Sebastian Flyte, with Pevsner's characteristically matter-of-fact inventory;

One of these was the chapel. We entered it by the public porch (another door led direct to the house); Sebastian dipped his fingers in the water stoup, crossed himself, and genuflected; I copied him. ‘Why do you do that?’ he asked crossly.

‘Just good manners.’

‘Well, you needn’t on my account. You wanted to do sightseeing; how about this?’

The whole interior had been gutted, elaborately refurnished and redecorated in the arts-and-crafts style of the last decade of the nineteenth century. Angels in printed cotton smocks, rambler-roses, flower-spangled meadows, frisking lambs, texts in Celtic script, saints in armour, covered the walls in an intricate pattern of clear, bright colours. There was a triptych of pale oak, carved so as to give it the peculiar property of seeming to have been moulded in Plasticine. The sanctuary lamp and all the metal furniture were of bronze, hand-beaten to the patina of a pock-marked skin; the altar steps had a carpet of grass-green, strewn with white and gold daisies.

‘Golly,’ I said.

Pevsner;

"An exceptionally complete piece of Arts and Crafts decoration of 1902.

The paintings are by A. Payne. The stained glass is by him and others. The triptych is by Charles Gere. The small crucifix and the candlesticks are by A. J. Gaskin... C. R. Ashbee's guild also did woodwork."

Sebastian was based on Hugo Lygon, represented as a child in the chapel. All that money and opportunity and he died at 36, falling off a kerb in Germany. The Lygons seem fully aware of the chance that fate plays in life. There is a huge portrait of the distant commoner from the Black Country, William Jennens. He died in his nineties, with a will that left all his money to his mother. The Lygons, after a court trial recorded by Charles Dickens, were the recipients of a third of his money due one married-in family member being a distant cousin. £800m in today's money.

Hugo, pulling the heads off flowers.

Since retirement, I have been posting a daily tweet of what I have enjoyed that day. Day 712 announced my upcoming visit and the watching of the film. 

I think my followers want me to get back to documenting the rough pubs of Cannock.

pic.twitter.com/b63rxdXTuN

— Cooking Lager is feeling divisive (@CarpeZytha) June 9, 2026

08/06/26 - On the Trail of.... George Eliot

No Access

Considering I have never read any of her books, it seems strange that this is the second George Eliot themed walk I have completed. With Middlemarch coming in as the second-best book of all time - as voted by Guardian readers over the weekend - maybe this is something to be addressed.

Previously, I've traipsed around South London looking out for where she lived. Today, it's Nuneaton, her birthplace. Apart from being the most populated town in Warwickshire, they don't appear to have much else to shout about. The hospital and a pub named after her. The pub possibly responsible for putting people in the hospital. Strangely open - but with pumping music, so it cannot be a 'spoons - at 10am on a Tuesday.

Random St George's flags replacing a flat roof (with dog on) as a warning sign

The route is from a 1951 guide book. The maps, and associated descriptions, have always presented a challenge to decipher. The theme is where George (Mary Ann Evans) was raised and some of the real locations that became fictional places in her works.

The lass herself

She was born at South Farm on the Arbury Estate - which in the 1950s was open to the public. The map cuts through this estate and even discusses an obelisk next to the farm in celebration. Public access is no longer available, so I have to adapt the route significantly. I do manage to track down the aforementioned obelisk, moved to the one nice part of town, the riverside park.

Previously next to South Farm

Griff House was her childhood home. I would have visited this too, but the public footpaths I need take me away from what is now a Beefeater/Premier Inn. Progress, hey.

Closest I get to Arbury Park - inspiration for Cheverel Manor in "Scenes from a Clerical Life"

My (replanned) route takes me around the northern side of the estate. "Private" signs are in abundance in case I get any ideas. Dull road walking along Astley Road to a proper, ruined castle with connections to Henry VIII.

A first glimpse across a pool

Up close - maybe too close, as you will find out.

Astley Castle, near Nuneaton in Warwickshire, was originally a 13th-century fortified manor house and later the seat of the Grey family. It is closely linked to Lady Jane Grey, the “Nine Days’ Queen”, who was the great-niece of Henry VIII through his sister Mary Tudor. Following Jane Grey’s failed claim to the throne in 1553 and her subsequent execution, the Grey family’s influence declined and the estate eventually passed out of their hands. The castle also has a literary link to George Eliot: it is generally identified as the inspiration for Knebley Abbey in George Eliot’s novella Mr Gilfil's Love Story, part of Scenes of Clerical Life.

There are plentiful information boards, direction arrows and even a sign saying "please respect the residents' privacy". Which leads me to think I can investigate the ruins in a little bit more detail. I get as far as identifying that a modern conversion is housed inside the ruins and it doesn't take long before I am hollered at as to what I am doing. The cleaners are in. This is now a holiday let owned by the Landmark Trust.

And can't cleaners shout when they spy middle-aged ramblers approaching their patch.

I apologise and try to explain the misleading signage that suggests it's open for public access. I am still not entirely sure it isn't.

I beat a hasty retreat to the church next door, having done my research into alabaster effigies and medieval misericord paintings of the apostles.

It's "doors locked".

Back to the walking. The guidebook wants me to head south to Corley and ultimately Allesley. There is little in the way of interest and a lot of it is lane walking. This might have been pleasant in the fifties but a look on Google Maps shows no verge and a lot of traffic.

I can escape North-West, through a damp wheat field with a narrow path (hello wet trousers and socks) and a golf course.

A revisit to a quite bonkers nautically themed pub - the Lord Nelson - which is almost as far as you can get from the sea in England.

Gah! I had just dried out

Bass in the Lord Nelson - Good Beer Guide Regular

"Get it at sea, take a ship / I'd christen her 'Victory', she'd make it."

Walk Details

Distance - 8.25 miles

Geocaches - 8

Walk Inspiration - Fifty Weekend Walks Round Birmingham - Walk 5

   

06/06/26 - The Three Good Beer Guide Ticks in Cannock

A Spoons and Two Micros

An oddly dull walk from Walsall brought me to Cannock, a previously unexplored town. If you ask AI what there is to see and do in Cannock, it tells you to look for a dogs grave, Freda, on Cannock Chase.

Which is probably not bad advice.

The Wetherspoons, Linford Arms, is where all the life is. A twin gabled town house, where nearly every single table was occupied. Thank God for their ruthlessly efficient app. An all day breakfast and a pint of Moorhouse Pendle Witches brew, whilst I guarded the last available single seater table.

Stand further back to get both gable ends in

The New Hall Arms is just a short walk away, opposite a shabby looking shopping centre. It's a bigger than usual micro, concentrating on cask rather than more esoteric international offerings. Bass was on, but in a move that showed a lack of care and attention, it was stuffed into a craft Vocation pint pot. Covered in art.  Give my boring brown beer in a boring nonic.

New Hall Arms

On the way back to the station is the final part of the trilogy, The Arcade. A quirky little micro pub, which appears to share its space with a music shop. People enter carrying guitars. An interesting collection of keg and cask on, I went for a previously untried Feld Helles lager from Ampersand Brewery.

Cannock, greened.

 

06/06/26 - Walsall to Cannock on the McClean Way

Arrow Straight to a Broken Boulder

Walk Midlands is such an excellent resource. Subscribe to their mail list and as regular as clockwork on the 1st of the month your inbox will be filled with wonderful ramblers inspiration. I had my eye on today's walk as it ended in the never explored before Cannock. As usual, I ask AI what there is to do there. Let's just say ChatGPT is not going to get employed by the Cannock Tourist Board.

If you're expecting a picturesque market town full of historic buildings, Cannock itself can feel a bit underwhelming.

As surprising as that sounds, it's quite a fair assessment. Who says we need to worry about the veracity of  AI?

Still, its probably better than Walsall. In the rain. I look to make my escape as soon as possible and pick up the McClean Way. A former railway line, its arrow straight, offers no views and makes canals seem exciting.

It's like this for miles

Until you escape at Pelsall

Cadman's Lane offers little to lift the boredom - a green lane dividing cow pastures. There's an oddly placed blue plaque in a thicket and even this is a memorial to something that no longer exists. John Wesley, founder of the Methodists, preached from a large sandstone boulder near Fishey. The boulder no longer exists. Kind of fitting for the walk, somehow.

Unexpected Plague

Impossible to say where Great Wyrley ends and Cannock begins but the last couple of miles are along the A34. At least there are three pubs for needed refreshment. I picked well at the first - The Star Inn. A community pub trying to be all things to all people. Food, entertainment and sometimes both. The upcoming England World Cup games can be enjoyed with a half time chip butty.

Well kept beer - HPA, Butty Bach or Timothy Taylor

Over two horrible roundabouts - and then I am in Cannock. A town where the planners really don't want the pedestrian to make it into.  

Three Good Beer Guide Ticks await.

Walk Details

Distance - 10 miles

Geocaches - 1

Walk Inspiration

 

05/06/26 - Masons Arms, Wichenford

Church Treasures and a Dovecote

The Pickerwheel is spun and returns Page 91 of the Hidden Places of Worcestershire book. Wichenford, for a dovecote and a pub.

My extensive library of walking books fails to find a single route in this small village. I am forced into making my own. It's a success - maybe the start of a new career. 6 miles through beautiful agricultural landscapes in the shadows of Woodbury and the Malvern Hills. Plenty of stiles to clamber over. 

Mainly on paths like this

With Views like this

Wichenford Dovecote - when I woke up this morning, I was unsure I could describe to you what a Dovecote is. Now, I know. It's got a brown tourist sign, pointing into the moated Wichenford Manor House. It's gated, so I nervously let myself in. The first building looks suitably ancient but on inspection, it's just stables. Around the corner, I find my quarry. 

C17th Birdhouse

Home for 557 Birds. Who, presumably, have all been evicted

 

Wichenford Church - This is what I love about exploring. The church is not only "Doors Open" but provides the WiFi password on the front door. Live blogging from the field was a possibility. The church is pretty enough and with the low lying land, is visible for much of the walk. Inside it housing two beautiful C17th shrines to the Washbourne family. 

St Laurence

Bunk Bed Shrines

And the loyal dog

The Masons Arms - is a food led country pub, which surprisingly has competition with the most bizarrely located Thai restaurant you will find. Housed in the barn at nearby Buryendtown Farm. One cask on, Wye Valley HPA, and I should have trusted my instincts, as it was badly on the turn. The landlady was that pleasant and attentive, I couldn't bring myself to complain. Besides, there was nothing to swap it with.

Repeat after me Mappiman - if in doubt, sample it; optimism pairs badly with blind ordering.

The menu looked fantastic

Walk Details

Distance - 6 Miles

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration - Page 91 of Hidden Places in Worcestershire 

02/06/26 - London Spiral Stage 24 - Kenley to Knockholt

Ups and Downs on the North Downs

The London Spiral had got into a complete route of built-up housing estates with little green space.

That changes on Stage 24, where the North Downs are explored. History underfoot, as ancient villages and Roman Roads are found. Then there are the hills.... all gentle in their own right but over the 14 miles, 1,150ft of ascent has been completed.

This starts from the get go - out of Kenley Station and up a chalk hill to Riddlesdown and the London Loop.

I've been here before

One of the gentle valleys on the North Downs

It's all golf courses, woodland, horse fields and the odd little village like Fickleshole. Fine, cache laden walking with two "highlights".

The words Biggin Hill will stir memories in any child of the late sixties brought up on Commando and Sven Hassell books. I was quite excited to be walking around the northern perimeter of this key site of the Battle of Britain. Until I arrived there. Dense vegetation, an overgrown footpath and a high fence. I heard aeroplanes and at one point, I saw the tail of one as it revved up for take-off.

Milking Lane Cottages, just before Biggin Hill

Refreshment should have been found at the two-pub, one-café village of Downe. A place with strong associations with Charles Darwin.

Charles Darwin moved to Down House in the village of Downe in 1842, seeking space and quiet away from London after returning from the voyage of the Beagle. He lived there with his family for the rest of his life, spending more than 40 years working, observing nature, and developing his ideas on evolution. It was at Down House that he wrote On the Origin of Species (1859) and carried out many of his famous experiments in the house, garden, and surrounding North Downs countryside. Darwin remained there until his death in 1882, by which point the house had become both his home and his lifelong scientific base.

I arrived at 10:50am, too early for the pubs but I could have murdered a cup of coffee. The café had an opening time of 11am detailed on the door but remained firmly in darkness after my 20 minute exploration of the church.

Coffee tickers having as hard a time of it as pub tickers.

A Sundial dedicated to Darwin on Downe Church

The front door of the Queens Head Pub, Downe

More countryside to Pratt's Bottom and the nearby Knockholt Station to end the walk. 

Initially, I think the Bulls Head is closed. The door refuses to open and a look through the window shows a place seemingly devoid of life. I console myself with the thought I will have more time to battle Central London tube strikes, when a lady chases after me down the street to tell me they are indeed open. The door is stiff and I am not the first to fall foul of its required "twist and pull" operation.

The first fully enjoyable leg of the London Spiral is celebrated with a Harvey's Sussex Best.

Be careful not to make a Pratt of yourself at the Bulls Head

And no problems on the Northern Line from Charing Cross to Euston.

Walk Details

Distance -  14 miles

Start - Kenley

Finish - Knockholt

Areas Walked - North Downs, Biggin Hill

Geocaches - 17

Pubs - 1

Previous Walks - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10, Stage 11, Stage 12, Stage 13, Stage 14, Stage 15, Stage 16, Stage 17, Stage 18, Stage 19, Stage 20, Stage 21, Stage 22, Stage 23

01/06/26 - A Croydon Pub Crawl

Bob Steel's Edgy City

The second edition of CAMRA's London Pub Walks has a new area to discover - Croydon. With a population greater than Southampton and Brighton, Bob Steel, the author, describes Croydon as London's Edge City. He describes its unique identity, history and doesn't shy away from its concrete jungle associations or indeed recent troubles. 

This was when London was burning in the 2011 riots. I can't remember exactly what they were rioting about but I do know I was there shortly afterwards, walking the Capital Ring.

Still, with a handily placed Premier Inn and great transport links - I can use it as stopover for my London Spiral Walk. Wits kept about me. Phone only checked when backs to the wall. 

The pubs have to be explored. Four are in the Good Beer Guide. None are called the Swan and Paedo.

Things get off to a poor start. The only 'spoons in town is The George. The Skylark - Bob's Pub 8 - has long gone. The George is going through an 8 week renovation - possibly to banish any similarity to Piccadilly's Moon Under Water. If Social Media is to be believed, this may have been rougher. It does mean I have to re-plan tea.

GBG Dubious Tick

Surrey Street is just packing away its street market as I arrive at the Dog. It's lost the "and Bull" extension since the guide was written. It's also lost its Youngs patronage, as the beer range was rather boringly limited to Doom Bar and Landlord. Croydon's oldest pub, with an island bar and rear room with fireplace.

No Bull

Island Bar Hoggers

Two bank conversions for the price of one now. The Spread Eagle by Fullers providing Old Joint Stock vibes. Massive ceilings, a roped off staircase to a function room. No ESB but there was HSB, and a main course of Hunters Chicken only costing the same as two pints. Almost seemed a bargain. Until they delivered it to the wrong table and I nearly lost three chips.

The Green Dragon providing a similar architectural experience. A live music venue, but not on a Monday. Bob details that they have Hog's Back beers on offer and indeed, I find my first TEA for over 10 years. Thank the lord for Untapped.

Impressive Architecture at the Spread Eagle

And Green Dragon - GBG endorsed

Is the other side of the flyover Bandit Country? There's two men ripping the seats out of an SUV to use it is as a skip on wheels. By the time I return, the police are there. I'm not making this up.... the SUV was packed to the hilt with what looked like a central heating system. 

But I have to press on for two more. The Royal Standard having old school charm in spades. Not the biggest of pubs but full of different entrances and nooks and crannies running around a central bar. Lovely pale wood panelling and bar. Another Fullers pub with no ESB. If it wasn't for the Doric Arch, I would be forgiven for thinking this is now a seasonal ale.

The view from under the flyover

Proper Pub Interior

Final visit of the night and it's The Bulls Head. An Irish landlord who looks like he has been there forever, yet Bob's description from 15 years ago holds no relevance now. Bob talks about the cask offering with the Cronx brewery offering guest ales, alongside more established Courage Best and Doom Bar.

Today, there is no cask. 

This looked like the sort of pub that you could buy anything, alongside your keg lager. You know, a lawnmower and someone to operate it. A parrot that has picked up the locals' lingo. There's more, but I have heard the phrase that snitches get stitches.

Painted in the colours of Crystal Palace my abiding memory will be that all other players from any other team are See You Next Tuesdays.

Glad All Over

There's one more Good Beer Guide Tick available at the Builders Arms. This, and a Peep Show themed tour, are plenty of reasons to come back.