03/07/26 - The Old Royal Library, Malvern

Late, for the Summer Solstice 

This was meant to be walked on 21st June. It was also meant to be walked at sunset. My first excuse is that I have been busy on the coastal walking. My second excuse is that we have the 1am England Mexico game this weekend. I am not staying/getting up late twice in succession. My third excuse, I would be shot for lighting fires in the tinderbox heatwave we are experiencing.

Summer Solstice: The Longest Day

June brings the great pivot of the year: the Summer Solstice, when the sun seems to pause at its zenith before beginning its slow decline.

It's a festival of fire and light, of fullness and ripeness, of standing still in the very height of things.

Pilgrimage at midsummer has always been drawn to the great circles of Stonehenge, Avebury and Callanish, where sunrise aligns with ancient stones in a drama that has played for millennia. And, of course, in a more contemporary way, Glastonbury Festival, always occurring around Midsummer's Day.

But it can be as simple as walking to the highest hill near you, lighting a small fire, and watching the sun dip late before rising early once again.

For my highest hill, I have picked the County Top of Worcestershire - the Beacon. 

A short but beautiful walk that I know well. Up the 99 steps to St Annes Well, yomp along the spine of the Malverns and then work my way back to town along the western side of the hills. Four locations of an Adventure Lab Cache telling the history of the working donkeys of Malvern, adding to the entertainment.

St Annes Well

Traditional Caching, with views

The Toposcope

Trig Point Bagging

To finish a perfect day, Black Country Ales have opened a new pub, the Old Royal Library. Directly opposite the Unicorn, which has subsequently closed down. The two things may be related, but the Unicorn has survived years opposite a much cheaper (and grander) Wetherspoons. They were used to competition.

New Pub in Town - The Old Royal Library

Everything one would expect from a BCA - the usual decor, cobs, bewildering range of unknown breweries and real cider/perry.

Walk Details

Distance - 5 miles

Walk Inspiration - Julie Royle's Worcestershire Walks Book 2

Geocaches - 6

Previous Celtic Pilgrimages - Imbloc, Spring Equinox, Belatne

01/07/26 - Kingswear, for the Seven Stars at Dartmouth

Beat The Clock

A new walk for us today. Requiring a ferry and on the other side of the Dart Estuary, it may not quite be within the South Hams that we have come to love so much.

We've a lot to pack in today. A 6 mile walk, two ferry crossings and a substantial lunch. It's pack-up day today and England KO at 5pm. We intend to be on the road back to the Midlands bang on 7pm, hopefully to contemplate quite how we will watch the next round at 1am on a Monday morning.

That's a problem for another day. First, we have to work out how to fit all this activity in when the longest of long stay car parks in Dartmouth is 4 hours. I mean, we would use the park and ride but it has 1-star reviews, my favourite complaining that there are no buses to take you park. So that's just an out-of-town "park" then, is it?

The walking is superb. Once across the estuary, we march inland first - heading up to Higher Brownstone before dropping down to the coast path at Coleton Fishacre and Pudcombe Cove. The coastline home, after dolphin and seal watching on the Mew Stone. Such a rollercoaster route - we are either walking up or down, which of course eats into our available time.

The Dart Estuary

A holloway leads to Higher Brownstone

Coast Path to the Mew Stone

Having a breather after one of the "ups"

The Mew Stone - home to dolphins and seals

Ziggy demands a swim at Mill Cove

On completion, we have an hour to spend before eviction. Fish and Chips (£36 for two, but Rockfish was in the Telegraph's best Chippers 2026) and a bench. Ziggy charged with protecting us from an ever growing number of circling seagulls.

This leaves time for a very quick pint at the new 2026 Good Beer Guide Tick. The Seven Stars advertises itself as Dartmouth's oldest pub. Probably reason enough for a visit. Perhaps not quite reaching the cuteness of last year's entry, The Cherub, but the beer was excellent. A cool Jail Ale rounding off a fine week of exploration.

The Seven Stars - Dartmouth's Oldest

Walk Details

Distance - 6.5 miles

Geocaches - 3

Walk Inspiration - 40 Walks In Devon

30/06/26 - Burgh Island from Ayrmer Cove

£2 for a plastic cup

Here I go again, on a stunning walk in the South Hams. This is an easy one, to a special place. 

Catch it right, and you can walk on a sand bar - with waves lapping at your feet to the east and to the west and visit the oldest pub in Devon, The Pilchard.

You've just got to navigate a bit of a stupid system. Beer, of below quality, is served in plastic glasses for which you pay a £2 deposit. I've got a problem with plastic glasses at the best of times, but having a system that doubles the queuing time in an oversubscribed pub is beyond ridiculous. Two sets of punters, early off season on a tuesday and it took 10 minutes for the one member of staff to stop making coffees to give provide the deposit refund. Mrs M convinced this is a ruse, with most people giving up and keeping the cup as a souvenir.

Blog ranting over - this is a simple walk from a National Trust car park. A holloway leads down to Ayrmer cove and then the coast path runs past Challaborough Caravan City to the island.

Ziggy loving the shady holloway

Ayrmer Cove

Tide looking good for a walk to Burgh Island

Despite the earlier slagging of the Pilchard, there are things in its favour. A 10am opener and a beer garden with unbeatable views. Time it when you can get inside and it's all you'd expect from a ancient, smugglers inn.

A sea tractor, should the tide be in

Ahoy there shipmates

The £2 Plastic Cup, with ropey Dartmoor Legend

A rollercoaster of ups and downs through the tiny village of Ringmore for the return.

Walk Details

Distance - 4.5 miles

Geocaches - 3

Walk Inspiration - 40 Walk in Devon 

29/06/26 - The Ferry Inn, Salcombe

Save Up for Portlemouth Down

This is another of our "must walks" in The South Hams.

Salcombe Town lies on one side of the Kingsbridge Estuary. It's all winding streets, artisan gin and equally artisan ice cream outlets, with plenty of other shops competing for your holiday dollar.

A £3 ferry ride is all it takes to reach the opposite shore, where golden sandy beaches and some of South Devon's finest coastal walking await. We studied the ferry over coffee. The largest combined fare for the 3 minute journey. £36. No wonder it was the same chap piloting it as last year. Pound per hour, he is the richest man in Devon. A title the landlord of the Ferry Inn, which we will come to later, is desperate to steal.

This short but spectacular route passes the idyllic Mill Bay and Sunny Cove before opening out onto dramatic clifftop paths leading to Gara Rock and Portlemouth Down. From there, the walk loops back inland along a wonderfully atmospheric sunken holloway, providing a fitting finale to a memorable circuit.

A fine way to start/end a walk

The coves on the east side of Kingsbridge Estuary

At the sea, heading towards Gara Rock on Portlemouth Downs

A shady holloway for the return

Devon CAMRA must have been reading my blog. There is always one pub in Salcombe in the Good Beer Guide and after last year's walk, I pronounced the pint at the Kings Arms, their recommendation, the worst of the entire week. They have been stripped of their entry and in 2026, this belongs to the Ferry Inn.

Whatever happens, it will be the winner of most spectacular entrance to a Good Beer Guide pub.

Mrs M (and Ziggy) looking forward to the Ferry Inn

Unobstructed view from ferry

Side On

And possibly winner of best view from a beer garden.

Palmers 200, looking over to where we walked

Of course, there is a catch. This 1749 boozer is a Palmers house. A phrase that normally induces an ache in the wallet. Add that to a tourist pub, with a view, in a place where the kids are called Ophelia and Tarquin and expect the worst.

Two pints - £15.30. 

No Crisps.

Walk Details

Distance - 7.5 miles

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration - Komoot

28/06/26 - The Albert Inn, Totnes

The South Hams Way

Totnes throws off quirky Glastonbury vibes. Interesting people, independent shops and three Good Beer Guide Pubs. Just the one open for business at midday on a Sunday - but they do Sunday Lunch. A suitable enough temptation to drag Mrs M from her desired coastal walks.

It was during our last visit that I discovered the South Hams Way. A newly launched Long Distance Path tracing the perimeter of the area for 100 miles. A section from Totnes along the River Dart to Ashprington provided the opportunity to complete an inland section.

Another on the list?

The walking is easy... The footpath is surprisingly distant from the river - possibly due to its tidal status and the climb into Ashprington very steep. But it's a pretty little village, complete with a functioning pub - The Durant Arms.

As far as you can sail up the Dart to Totnes

The Dart broadening out near Ashprington

Devon Views

After lane walking from Ashprington, views over Totnes

Into town - where the only outlet selling mystical stuff needs to be in liquid format. 

The Bay Horse Inn - a 1pm opener. On a weekend.  Strange hours.

Copperhead Ales Taproom - must be religious. They don't open on a Sunday at all.

This leaves the Albert Inn. A Taproom for the Bridgetown Brewery. 

Einstein a-go-go

There has been a weekend long beer festival running. I know this, as my first two choices marked on the chalk board have sold out. This left a mild or a Pale Ale (Accolade) from the brewery to try.

A good atmosphere in the pub, as veterans from the previous two days festivities finished their walk of shame for more of what didn't kill them to make them stronger. The barman announced his surprise to see each and every one of them.

Walk Details

Distance - 6.25 miles

Geocaches - 4

Walk Inspiration - Komoot

27/06/26 - Bolt Head

The gentlemen morning drinker is better served at 'Spoons

Another perfect walk from Komoot. Mrs M goes as far as to say it is her "walk of the year". Interesting, as a variation of the route won a similar accolade back in the dark covid days of 2020.

Today, we battle the "lanes" of the South Hams to start at East Soar National Trust Car Park. Not the official South West Coast Path (we follow this on the way back, underneath our current position) but fine views in all directions.

Looking up the estuary to Salcombe

Beautiful woodland walking through Overbecks brings us to a decision point. We know the beach at South Sands is not "dog-friendly". We also know that it is our only potential refreshment stop - having ignored the honesty tea and coffee facilities at Soar Farm. We decide a view of the Salcombe Castle ruins is worth the effort. And what an inspired decision that was.

At the first A-board with the word "bar", we head down a steep slope to what turns out to be the South Sands Hotel. A stunning terrace, overlooking the beach. Other patrons? Drinking champagne out of the required chalice. Fear not, their kids have Aston Villa tops on, so it ain't that posh.

Mrs M sends me off to order a flat white. I ask if she is sure, as I am going for a cool, refreshing beer. As is the wont of all women, she says that she will just have some of mine. It may be 9:45 am, but we have been up hours and time works differently when you are on holiday. Alas, their licence only covers them for residents until 10:30 am. Villa parents look smug with their pinkies out, as I contemplate googling the nearest 'spoons.

All is not lost. The coffees were delicious and no more than Starbucks, as Rockerfella Mrs M points out to me. 

And what a view - the castle, a fort and a sea tractor that we both agree will never make it across the estuary.

Transpires the tractor is just a jetty and passengers disembark to a proper boat

Refreshed, we tear ourselves away for what is possibly the best walking of all of the SWCP.  The climb to Bolt's Head is proper Lord of the Rings territory. The sea views can be taken for granted but the gnarly rock formations are something a little different.

Mrs M and Ziggy

A seaward facing retaining wall for safety

Another route added to the "South Hams Must Be Walked" list. If we come next year, no planning will be required.

Walk Details

Distance - 5 miles

Geocaches - 2

Walk Inspiration

26/06/26 - Pig's Nose, East Prawle

The Annual Return to a Top 5 Pub

We rarely notice the moment a one-off outing becomes an annual pilgrimage. This is our third time completing a variation of this walk. Having honed our technique, this is the second time we have had an identical two-centre lunch.

Yet the roads to East Prawle are no easier. I have now taken to turning the radio down so I can better see the high hedges, the grass growing down the centre of the road and the local lunatics who take national speed limit as an invitation to career around blind bends. I am not sure how many years I have left in me for this tradition.

After two days of country-wide record breaking June heat, a storm broke in the South Hams last night. Today's walk starts in 19 degree temperature with a sea fret offering air condition like conditions. Just perfect.

Officially the coolest two people in the land

This walk was found on Komoot - the slight variation - a permissive path that took us down to the cove that the pub was named after. From then, the coast past Gammon Head, to the Coastguard's Station at Prawle Point and the undercliff around Langerstone Point to Horseley Cove. All varieties of walking - from hands-on rock scrambling to pleasant meadow fields encountered.

The permissive path to Pig's Nose

Water break for Ziggy at Gammon Head

To Prawle Point Coastguard Station

 A swim (for Ziggy) at Horseley Cove before the stiff climb back for the annual refreshments.

First, crab sandwiches at The Piglet Cafe (monopolies commission have been informed). They are expensive, but I challenge you to find a finer crab sandwich in the country. Possible, if you find one that doesn't come with a side of salted Doritos. B-Tec crisps, according to Mrs M.

This is enjoyed whilst we await the scrape of the midday bolt at the pub. A regular in "best of" guides in Devon from everything from the food, to the beer (you must have the gravity fed Eddystone), to the live music. And not forgetting the superb walking.

2026 Photo

An investigation to find something new to tell you. Previously, I commented that it might be the only pub loos with shower facilities. I noticed we can add laundrette services to that list. And the trap, at least in the men's, is called the "poop deck".

Their website details their musical heritage. There cannot be many remote pubs that can have such a roster of previous performers;

The pub’s music hall has hosted an extraordinary range of artists over the years, from Atomic Kitten, Stanton Warriors, Lee Scratch Perry, Damon Albarn, The Animals and The Boomtown Rats, The Blockheads to name a few.

Today, there were many reasons to be cheerful.

Walk Details

Distance - 5 Miles

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration

24/06/26 - Frogmore Creek

Escaping the Heatwave, Evading the Pub

A walk from "Best Pubs in South Devon" holds plenty of promise.

Yet compromises need to be made. We are on day 2 of the heatwave that has had the news outlets reaching for ever darker crayons. Mrs M wants us up and out early - 6am was mentioned - and on the shortest walk I have for the area. I'm up for the early start. England vs. Ghana last night provided no reason to stay up celebrating.

The Globe at Frogmore will have to wait. With opening hours of 3pm - 11pm midweek, it was always going to be a tall order to get the tick. 

Heating up at 7:18am

It's a beautiful ramble. Frogmore Creek is a drowned river valley in the Kingsbury Estuary. The village at the head was once a thriving port and the pub served the working community. Low tide when we drop down to access it. Occasional views along its length to Salcombe.

First glimpse

Salcombe in the far distance

Fields take us to West Charleton - where the Charleton Inn awaits those in cooler climes - before a delightful green lane in the sheep hills drops us back to the start.

In car - the temperature is 24 degrees. And we haven't even had breakfast.

Ziggy the hot dog looking forward to his sardine brunch

Views from the green lanes above Frogmore Creek

Walk Details

Distance - 5 miles

Geocaches - 1

Walk Inspiration - Best Pub Walks in South Devon 

19/06/26 - The Slow Way - Stourport to Droitwich

PID360 / VideoGuard 360

I walked much of this route in reverse, when completing the Droitwich to Hartlebury Rail Trail. It was a disaster of overgrown paths with terrible signposting. I really shouldn't have bothered this Slow Way, but someone has to review them.

To save repeating my moaning, I will simply put up my Slow Ways review. 

This is a disaster - particularly around the east side of the A449 around Stinton Pool and Acton Farm.

Before I start listing the problems, I think I have worked out that these slow ways have been developed on line and no one has actually walked them until they are on the website. I am the first to review this one.

I started at Stourport and ended at Droitwich. I have previously walked much of the route in reverse and it was a disaster then.

The issues? The paths are badly overgrown, signposting is minimal and in many places impassable.

52°18.606'N, 2°13.352'W - path disappears, Dense vegetation. Impossible to follow on the public right of way.

52°18.106'N, 2°13.099'W - a new solar farm. Approaching from the North - there is a clear path between the two fenced off solar farms. Later on, the path completely disappears at a brook. When approaching from the South, I wasn't even able to find my way through. Then, in the middle of the PROW at the co-ords, there is a machine. I have googled it. It is a PID360 / VideoGuard 360. On approach, it sparks up an alarm akin to an air-raid warning, which sounds twice. Lights come on and a very sinister Northern Irish Voice tells you that "Your approach is being recorded. The police have been notified". I am exaggerating when I add "So they have". I have seen the film Aliens. I thought it would shoot me.

52°17.986'N, 2°12.955'W - path disappears at a thicket brook. If you are approaching from the South, you won't even get this far. Forced to battle my way through.

Once (if?) you reach Doverdale Church - its plain sailing on lanes until 52°16.376'N, 2°11.516'W - the Monarchs Way at Nunnery Wood. There is high wheat in the fields. The farmer has left a path but not accurately where marked on the OS Map. Easy to lose it - and I ended up going around in circles on existing tractor tracks, trying not to make a crop circle.

I have reported the issues to Worcestershire County Council Rights of Way Management.

I seriously recommend that no one else attempts this walk.

Seems I am not the only rambler to fall foul of this device. Check out this BBC Story.

For what it is worth - here are the photos.

The Monarach's Way - Not quite where it is meant to be

Westwood House, on the approach to Droitwich

It's not all misery. The Hop Pole Inn is still serving a choice of Bathams beers in perfect condition.

12 miles of misery for this

And the 133 bus - which only runs on Monday, Wednesday and Friday - was bang on its 13:30 departure time. 

I was the solo passenger.

It was like a big Uber.

Walk Details

Distance - 12 miles

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration

17/06/26 - Rail Trail - Langley Green to Smethwick Galton Bridge

Back to my roots

A combination of sources for today's walk, which is possibly the most personal one undertaken.

This month's History West Midlands Podcast is about racism in 1960s Smethwick and specifically Malcolm X's 1965 visit to the area. The next leg of my "rail trails" series is between Langley Green and Smethwick.

Peter Griffiths became Smethwick’s Conservative MP in the 1964 general election after running a notoriously racist and anti-immigration campaign, winning against the national trend and displacing Labour’s Patrick Gordon Walker. A few months later, on 12 February 1965, Malcolm X visited Smethwick at the invitation of Avtar Singh Jouhl and the Indian Workers’ Association to see the discrimination faced by Black and Asian residents, including the colour bar at the Blue Gates pub, where he was not served. He described the situation in Smethwick as even worse than America, and his visit became a powerful symbol of international solidarity against racism. Malcolm X was assassinated in New York on 21 February 1965, just nine days after the Smethwick visit.

I was born in Birmingham and spent the first two years in Smethwick. In a street very near and similar to where Malcolm X visited. My parents - white, working class, moved away in 1971. I never heard them be racist but their reasons were "they didn't want their kids to be in the minority at school".

With this as a backdrop - I trace a route between the two stations, taking in key locations to the story and from my life. It's an urban walk - so certainly not pretty.

Mappiman's First House - Remembered only through photos

There's not that many pubs in the area. The first seen, the Merrivale - a burnt-out shell that is bound to be demolished soon. Most in the area are "Desi-Pubs" - a perfect blend of beer and Indian Food, mixed grill platters a speciality. The Old Chapel is a surviving traditional pub and also the oldest non-secular building in Smethwick. Long been of interest, as we drive past it from the Albion. My mom tells me stories of sharing half a cider with my dad, unable to afford a drink each, having mortgaged themselves to the hilt to purchase the two-up, two-down.

I was hoping to visit today, but it appears to be going through a change of ownership. Stonegate has it up for sale and Facebook has an enthusiastic post suggesting a new chapter is starting soon. 

Old Chapel - I can claim a tick from my pram in 1970

Blue Plaque

Lunch and an interlude at Smethwick Heritage Centre in Victoria Park. A tiny room celebrating Smethwick's industrial past and West Bromwich Albion's former glories.

Picnic in a Park

The Red Cow - Peter Griffiths, the Racist MP, used to campaign from there. Now Desi

The Blue Gates - Visited on my Metro Pub Crawl Walk

My acting career died a death before it had chance to flourish. In Smethwick High Street - where I was busy photographing the mosque, I was approached by a film producer who needed white Caucasian males to appear as extras in a movie being shot. Photos taken and paperwork part completed until I asked how long I would be needed for. Alas, shooting was between 2pm and 8pm. I couldn't commit.

A statue to Sikh Soldiers in WW1

Marshall Street - not far from Smethwick Galton Bridge - is the logical conclusion to the day's activities. A blue plaque marking Malcolm X's visit to Smethwick.

A street of terraced houses

Malcolm was here

Walk Details

Distance - 5 miles

Geocaches - 2

Previous Stages on the Wyre Valley Line - Worcester to Droitwich, Droitwich to Hartlebury, Hartlebury to Kidderminster, Kidderminster to Hagley, Hagley to Stourbridge, Stourbridge to Cradley Heath, Cradley Heath to Old Hill, Old Hill to Langley Green