23/05/26 - Rottingdean and into Brighton

For Two More Good Beer Guide Ticks

We are staying at the far eastern extremities of Brighton. Just where the city runs out and its all private schools (Roedean), rolling hills and pretty villages that end in "dean".

With the unexpected heatwave, we are up and out early to take the dogs to visit Ovingdean and Rottingdean, returning to base via Undercliffe.

Too early for pubs but not breakfast, I'll have to add the afternoon pub ticking onto the blog to make it worth-(my)-while.

Ovingdean Church - Doors Closed

Rottingdean Windmill

Rottingdean - a Story Telling Area

A rare image of Undercliff, without Pain in the Arse Cyclists

The dogs aren't really keen on built up areas, so we park them at home to head out to Brighton to see if I can add to Good Beer Guide Ticks I gained on a grim winter's afternoon in 2025.

More walking, but at least Mrs M can entertain herself by keeping a running count of how many people she spots with purple hair.

The Brighton Bierhaus is the first port of call. Classic pub architecture, with the purpose built alehouse built in the 1830s and formerly known as the Thurlow Arms. It's been resurrected by the Brighton Bier Brewery and made "Craft".

Mrs M recording purples in her app

With the temperature nudging the 30s, we take advantage of their German/Belgian offerings - the finest in the City. Hacker-Pschorr in a ceremonial chalice, after the kind barman pointed out the Rothaus was alcohol free.

We haven't got much time but on firing up Google Maps to find our next quarry, we notice the number one Brighton Tourist attraction. Far too many people use Quadrophenia Alley as a cut through to complete a comprehensively authentic recreation, so I console myself with a quick chant of "We are the Mods!"

Knee Trembler

And Google Maps is required to find The Hole in the Wall. Tucked away off the seafront down Queensbury Mews, it claims to be Brighton's smallest pub. That don't impress us much. It's at least three times the size of Manchester's Circus Tavern.

Two roomer

It is a quality drinking den, with a chalk board of beers and ciders to work through if you have time and a fine selection of snacks. Two flavours of Nik-Naks.

Germans all round - Flensburger and Ayinger. Plus Taytos.

Walk Details

Distance - 9 Miles in total, 5 on the plotted walk

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration - AA 1001 Walks

22/05/26 - Lewes, for Mount Caburn

Sussex Best

There was never going to be much debate on where to start our latest walking break.

Lewes - a town full of history, birthplace of revolutionaries, satirical bonfires and the home of the unique taste of Sussex.

A Beaut

This is the Harvey's Brewery - a classic Victorian brewery, which can trace its roots back to 1790. Harvey's Sussex Best happily sits in my top 5 beers, although much more work needs to be completed to calculate the final rankings.

A pint will be a reward for completing an out of town walk at the start of the 2026 mini heatwave. This country is nuts. Last week, I was forced - under the threat of violence - to turn the heating back on in the Midlands.

A matter of moments, and we leave the busy town behind to complete a classic "downs" walk - up and across the golf course, before reaching lush agricultural landscape, with plenty of chalkland clefts and ups and downs. The photos don't do justice to the remoteness or the beauty. Mount Caburn is the target, a grassy dome of a hill that hosted an iron age hillfort. 

The current Mrs M, Child #2 and borrowed doggies on the way to Mount Caburn

More chalk uplands

Easy peasy and back into town to determine which of the 8 Good Beer Guide Ticks should get the Mappiman Dollar. The John Harvey Tavern ticks all the boxes;

• Tap room for the brewery
• Opposite the brewery shop
• T-shirts too cyan to suit my complexion
• But I was tempted by an out of season Christmas Ale
• Sussex Best and all of its mates on cask
• Although the Best was gravity fed
• Dog Friendly
• Food available
• An offer on Friday fish and chips

We chose well

If only we had come on the bus - I could have told you about the other 7 available venues.

Walk Details

Distance - 5 miles

Geocaches - 1

Walk Inspiration - AA Walks Through History Walk 29

20/05/26 - Slow Way - Highley to Bewdley

For The Harbour at Arley

Highley - an unassuming mining town in Shropshire - becomes my most walked Slow Way location. I can add Bewdley to Kinver, Bridgnorth and Cleobury Mortimer to the list of destinations that I have walked from or to.

Today's walk is so simple..... Immediately pick up the river, walk downstream on the Severn Way, stop when you arrive at Bewdley.

Today's vista - the river at Highley

Long Distance Walking on the Severn Way

Half-way along, handily placed for (liquid) lunch, is the Harbour Inn at Arley. 

The Harbour Inn

With the population of Arley on the other side of the footbridge, it's a survivor. Pleasing that is open regular hours (Midday - 11pm), the only surprise was that I was not alone for my visit. A couple of other walkers not quite making it worth their while opening. 

Three Wye Valley Cask on - with Butty Bach in fair condition.

Plenty of refreshment options in Bewdley - but not all keeping such traditional hours. Looks like it's evening only for Bathams at the Horn and Trumpet.

Walk Details

Distance - 7 Miles

Geocaches - 1

Walk Inspiration

18/05/26 - More on the South Staffordshire Railway Walk

The End of Easter

With this walk, I have more or less completed the South Staffordshire Railway. A previous outing conquered the northern half. A very similar walk today completes the southern half.

Starting at a car park where Himley Station used to live, it's obvious the all-terrain path has had some recent work. There are less pot-holes here than on the roads driven to get here.

Easy walking, easy routefinding

For future reference - the café and another car park are at Bratch Lane, where I leave the railway to pick up the Staffordshire-Worcestershire canal. Towpath walking to Awbridge - which may or may not have been designed by James Brindley. 

Awbridge

Whilst on a historical bent, this is my first walk testing out the Hiiker App. It has a function to show your position on a C19th OS map. Today's route passing through the grounds of both a hospital for infectious diseases and a Victorian Workhouse.

Another feature? - an overlay of "live pubs!"

A Trysull revisit - too early for The Bell, but the church is "doors open". Despite it's age - parts of it 1000 years old - there's not too much of interest. The relatively modern stained glass windows and a C13th font compete with human activity for things to investigate. It is the last day of Easter, moving into Pentecost and the altar vestments were being changed from white to red. The things you learn when the pubs are shut.

Dropping down to Trysull

All Saints, Trysull

Countryside providing access to the Canal at the Round Oak, exiting it Botterham Lane, for a return to the car park.

Walk Details

Distance - 7.5 miles

Geocaches - 4

Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine, March 2025, Walk 13

12/05/26 - The Good Beer Guide Pubs of Salisbury

Wiltshire's Beer City

There's no need to do any planning for Salisbury. Nearly every pub visited tonight had one of these leaflets;

Everything you need

I'm impressed with the City from the get-go. Varying my diet after a four-day trek across the county, I decide Thai food should be on the menu. Pub #1 is the Rai D'or. Good Beer Guide tick. CAMRA Historic Pub Interior. Thai restaurant.

The trail always provides

I admire what they have done here. As a pub, it retains many features - ancient fireplace, low ceilings, traditional tables. The restaurant side of the business runs with maximum efficiency and minimal fuss. Two cask ales on, reflecting low turnover but maintaining quality—and the Frome Brewery Usual Best Bitter is in perfect nick. 

I'm off to a flyer as I navigate the flyover - trying to cross the A36(T) which somehow got through town planning. The Winchester Gate is my quarry - The home of live music in Salisbury.

Out of towner

No live music tonight (though a couple of chaps with instrument cases come in who are either musicians or 1930s Chicago mobsters), but the piped music is at a volume that makes you think you’re at Knebworth. An interesting Fuzztone by Dark Revolution—a hazy NEIPA.

Rock on at the Winchester

In the near vicinity is The Wyndham Arms. I was told not to miss this Hop Back Brewery house by the Marlborough trio - saying it was every bit as good as Swindon's Glue Pot. A man's pub, for men, who either like eating crisps, reading newspapers or looking at their phones.

Crop Circle in perfect condition

My palate is crying out for something a bit different to cask. The Coach and Horses more than scratches that itch. A huge menu showcasing some wonderful keg options, alongside the four cask ales. Paulaner Salvator sampled on draught for this first time ever. Excellent choice, friendly and knowledgeable staff but it really needed some more customers to generate an atmosphere. 

Unsure about the windows

Just add punters

On the subject of variety - a shout-out to Sips micro pub. In the leaflet but not in the Good Beer Guide. There can't be many places where you can drink draught Delirium Barrel Aged Blonde. Probably for good reasons, as it would hasten by approach to full-time tramp.

My final GBG tick is probably the town's most famous, The Haunch of Venison. Three star CAMRA Heritage pub and incredibly atmospheric. 

If they advertise "Live Eels", surely they need to sell them

A little tricky identifying the beers that were on, as they are scatter around on the opposite bar to the where the customer stands. They were all Hop Back - but this is not a tied house. I did ask the reason, but the explanation made little sense.

The Delirium and Salvator were kicking in.

There's 32 pubs in that leaflet. Based on tonight's exploration, it's well worth a return visit.

For once, Wiltshire has surprised me - in the positive sense.

12/05/26 - A Wiltshire Way Day 4 - Amesbury to Salisbury

Ancient Monuments, Gratis

The first half of A Wiltshire Way comes to an end in Salisbury. A city that makes the remote plodding and below average pub scene worth the effort.

Today, it's an easy walk and with the twin highlights of Stonehenge and Old Sarum - real highlights. Both are paid for tourist attractions but both can be experienced gratis.

Stonehenge especially so - approach from the Avenue and you find yourself on the other side of a low fence, where the patrons have paid £30. I'm up there with Martin Lewis for money saving techniques.

Come over here and save yourself £120

Geocaching trail and fine walking through Wilsford Cum Lake (make your own jokes) and refreshment found in the unlikely place of Great Bustard. From a distance, I thought it meant Boris Johnson. A posh eponymous gastro-pub, where people feel it acceptable to hold job interviews in public. I groaned at some of the answers and saw through her bull at some of her answers. The interviewer was a goon too.... often answering his own questions. By the time I had finished my Hop Back Summer Lightning, he had given himself the job.

A literal barn of a pub - the sign is more interesting

Every step getting me closer and closer to my goal - through fields of blue wildflowers until eventually, Old Sarum comes into view. An impressive hill fort, abandoned town with a castle and cathedral. The forerunner to Salisbury.

The track to Old Sarum

The ramparts - Google aerial views for the dramatic views of the Cathedral footings

And there lies Salisbury - endless history, a delightful Cathedral court and 6 Good Beer Guide ticks to attack.

It's taken me four days to get here. I fully intend to kick the arse out of it.

A spire to inspire Russian tourists with exact measurements

Walk Details

Distance - 13.5 miles

Geocaches - 56

Previous Stages on "A Wiltshire Way" - Day 1 - Swindon to Marlborough, Day 2 - Marlborough to Pewsey, Day 3 - Pewsey to Amesbury

11/05/26 - A Wiltshire Way - Day 3 - Pewsey to Amesbury

Horse, What Horse?

Pewsey was ticked off - pubs with odd opening hours, Chinese and Indian Takeaways but what it is most famous for is its White Horse.

Pewsey White Horse is one of the lesser-known chalk hill figures of southern England, cut into the steep southern slope of Pewsey Hill above the village of Pewsey in Wiltshire. Unlike many of the older white horses, it is relatively modern — created in 1937 to commemorate the coronation of King George VI.

I can see on the map that it's on the imaginatively named Pewsey Hill - which my route to Amesbury is taking me straight up. Somehow, I fail to spot it.

Pewsey Hill - The horse may be the other side of the hedge

This kind of sets the tone for the day's walking. I am on Salisbury Plain - the views are amazing. Amazingly empty. My path runs for as far as the eye can see. There's not even the frisson of being shot at or run over by a tank.

Where to stop on today's walk?

No tanks

I pick up the River Avon valley and a collection of very odd military towns. The barracks look more like a Prisoner of War camp. Hard to tell whether the barbed wire is to stop me getting in or to stop the soldiers getting out. Nothing of interest in Haxton, Netheravon, Figheldean or Ablington.

Thank the Lord for Durrington, with its Sainsbury's Local and Big Blue Cup of Joy.

The Stonehenge Inn

A pub so bad, it almost comes back around the other side of a rating system. I'm unsure what was the most naff - I suppose I would have enjoyed a double-decker bus play area in the garden as a kid. I don't think anyone appreciated the plastic menhirs guarding the entrance door. And the miniature Stonehenge summons inevitable memories of This Is Spinal Tap — one suspects the druids may soon be demanding it be built eighteen inches higher.

Gotta laugh

Face tells a different story

I'll save the rest of my review for pubsgalore.com.

Nearly in Amesbury, I am saving the real Stonehenge for tomorrow. My ancient monument today is Woodhenge - although I am unsure as to what I am looking at.

At least this is free to enter

Amesbury is full of history, with plenty to investigate. The pub scene is a little limited and hardly worth reporting.

The George is my digs for tonight and was good enough for General Fairfax to base his headquarters in the English Civil War. It is an excellent, value for money hotel and my most extravagant stay of the trip. The hotel bar did not look like it would provide much entertainment. 

Bunting

The Kings Arms was a morose, cask-less pub that may have shown the football later but I couldn't bring myself to return. Surprisingly, I saw an Australian order two pints of Fosters.

Sad Times at the Kings Arms

The Bell is an unexpected Wetherspoons for a town of this size. Due to their famous pricing system, it was the only busy pub in town. A druid in a high-visibility jacket holding court and banging his staff for emphasis on his punchlines. The beer - Stonehenge Brewery - in perfect condition. 

Ding Dong - Decent Beer - People

Finally, The New Inn. A foodie pub, again lacking atmosphere and the only drink I had to return. A rancid half of London Pride that smelled and tasted badly of vinegar. Why barmen have to "check the barrel" when they could just sniff it, I will never know. He concurred the barrel was nearing empty but it should never have got to this point. How will we ever get Australians off Fosters?

New Inn, Old Beer

Walk Details

Distance - 15.5 miles

Geocaches - 36

Previous Stages on "A Wiltshire Way" - Day 1 - Swindon to Marlborough, Day 2 - Marlborough to Pewsey

10/05/26 - A Wilstshire Way Day 2 - Marlborough to Pewsey

Man on a Deadline

Wiltshire has provided a new experience. I don't think a walk plotted on a map has so spectacularly failed to deliver in execution.

There are two very distinct walking areas for today's indirect route between Marlborough and Pewsey.

Savernake Forest is one of Southern England's oldest surviving forests. A harder look at the OS Map would have revealed the unnatural man-made tracks. Arrow straight, loose stone rides - shared with the  occasional vehicle spewing up dust - did not make for a pleasant morning. DPD were trying to set a time record for a full traverse. 

The map, more interesting than reality.

One part of the forest that DPD aren't allowed to drive

The village of Great Bedwyn offered potential refreshment but I was too early for the Three Tuns and the post office was closed on a Sunday. A first potential hazard encountered - a bull in field. Thankfully, he was distracted by a magpie in the churchyard.

Handsome beast

In an improvement on yesterday, I did find somewhere to lunch. The Swan at Wilton, a busy dining pub, where beer of the week, Ramsbury Gold, was once again found.

An admittedly poor photograph

And it was a good job I stopped here.

The afternoon's walking was along the Kennet and Avon Canal. I am from the West Midlands, from a town that solely exists because of the canal. You cannot walk for more than a couple of miles without stumbling on a pub or cafe. Not in Wiltshire. 

7 miles, where the only thing of "interest" was the Bruce Tunnel. And you have to leave the towpath to get through that.

It will be a while before my next canal walk

I met a trio of drinkers in Marlborough last night who told me that I should not miss the Shed Alehouse in Pewsey. Knowing how limited entertainment options in the town are, I was determined to take their advice. It closes at 4:30pm on a Sunday.

So the relentless canal plod was executed against a ticking stopwatch. It provided the motivation required. I was there at 4pm.

Taken after 4:30

What an odd place - the front drinking parlour is bolted onto a terraced house, containing maybe three tables. Packed solid. My 70l Osprey left on the street. To be honest, if it had been nicked, I would not have been too bothered.  Tube rules about giving your seat up to those more in need are unobserved. I'm the only mug who has traipsed 19 miles to get here.

By pint two, a gap had opened up and I was able to generate conversation with the old classic "where is best to eat in Pewsey". Always good for debate, even if the answer is not ofyen a Chinese on a bench.

There are three other pubs in town - although the Royal Oak had seemingly given up. It was open on arrival but firmly bolted before the chow mein had been ordered.

Moonrakers was where everyone in the Shed absconded to after 4:30pm. After B and B check-in (they don't do breakfast, so probably should call it a B) - I made it in time to get involved in a pub wide debate about VAR and whether West Ham's equaliser against Arsenal should have stood. Five days later and I am still undecided. Which shows why VAR needs to get in the bin. 

Wait till you see the roundabouts in Pewsey

Finally, after 33 miles of walking, I get my first Good Beer Guide Tick of the trip at The Coopers Arms. A delightful, thatched pub on the village outskirts. 

More like it

Ossett White Rat in perfect condition. If you want to get in the Bible, sell beer from Yorkshire.

Walk Details

Distance - 19 Miles

Geocaches - 4

Previous Stages on "A Wiltshire Way" - Day 1 - Swindon to Marlborough