08/08/25 - The Good Beer Guide Pubs of Wigan

Half Way There in Wigan

Wigan - just about within the Greater Manchester area - lists 8 pubs in the 2025 Good Beer Guide. I manage the first four, following a morning on the Greater Manchester Ringway. Is there enough here to justify a return visit?

Not if Tap 'n' Barrel is an accurate representation of the local beer scene. A micro pub, hosted down a small shopping arcade, I struggle to find service. An unmanned bar, that remains unmanned to the point of discomfort. Should I say something to the two other punters? Should I help myself and break my duck of having "never pulled a pint in my life"?

External Speaking sharing indie pop to the streets of Wigan

After a good five minutes, a lady appears from upstairs and apologises. Pork pies are available on the weekend and I determine the weekend starts on a Friday lunchtime. Three real ales are on, but all pale ales. I make a mistake with my Wensleydale Semer Water, which was definitely on the turn. That slightly acetic sniff and taste of vinegar. It should really have been returned.

Lunch, nearly sorted

A better experience at the very traditional Anvil. And prices that cannot be sniffed at. Phoenix Brewery Arizona a spoons-esque bargain of £3.45.

Red Brick....

... And Multi Award Winning

Wigan Central, hosted in railway arches, is a good place to sit and ponder my homeward journey at a town that has two adjacent railway stations. I could bang on about the complexity of our railway system but all I will say is this. A 48 minute, two train journey from North Western is three times the price of a 68 minute, three train journey from Wallgate. Even when there are severe delays from Wallgate. I am hoping to recoup the cost of a couple of pints from Northern.

Under the arches....

Wigan Central offer an interesting selection of beers - both local cask and international keg, which is my blueprint for how a micro should operate. I'm a little unsure of the gimmicky railway signal ordering system available on all tables. A full pub, and no one taking advantage of table service by raising the flag.

Abbeydale Black Mass always getting acknowledgement from the brewery during an Untappd check in.

Which leaves for today the 2021 Historic England Conservation award winning Swan and Railway. 

An unassuming exterior leads to one of those labyrinthine pubs with many rooms to explore. After a long discussion with the barman about Bass, I settle in the front left room - with a spreadsheet of pub tickers and a couple of delayed train travelers.

Pub Art #1

Pub Art #2

Enough here to warrant coming back to find the remaining four. Although spending an afternoon in the Swan would also be recommended.

08/08/25 - Greater Manchester Ringway - Stage 15

All Downhill from Here

Winter Hill was the final big hill on the Greater Manchester Ringway. It's going to be interesting to see what I find with the last five stages. 

After 13 miles yesterday, it's nice to have a gentler walk today - although purists will notice a rather big navigational error that led to a couple of miles being knocked off today's route. To be fair, it is easy to just plod on along canals and the bit I missed, Haigh Hall, I have previously walked.

Little to report in the early stages, passing through Blackrod village, with all the views behind to Winter Hall.

Yesterday's GM Ringway

If there was a theme for today - it would be transportation links. The former Lancashire Union Joint Railway leading to the longest canal in Northern England.

Bridges over track beds

Bridges over canals.

The Worthington Lakes break up the straight line walking - a series of reservoirs on the River Douglas providing water to the townspeople of Wigan.

It's the River Douglas that provides the route back to civilisation.

Wigan - with 8 Good Beer Guide ticks and the complexity of two adjacent train stations to provide post beer confusion on how best to get back to Salford.

That many pubs are always worthy of a separate blog.

Walk Information

Start - Blackrod

Finish - Wigan

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10, Stage 11, Stage 12, Stage 13, Stage 14

Distance -  9 Miles

Geocaches - 25

Walk Inspiration

07/08/25 - Greater Manchester Ringway - Stage 14

On Winter Hill

I once walked Hergest Ridge, so this is not the first hill walk to have a song named after it.

To get there, it's a gentle climb, following Eagley Brook, past impressive mills and through Barrow Bridge. Unusually, it rains. It never rains in Manchester. In 2025, I'm not even being ironic.

The route details are told through an Adventure Lab Cache, which sadly eludes me. The gates on the old road are firmly closed, as work is underway on replacing the supporting cables. This means I cannot bring you photos of the Scotsman’s Stump, marking the 1838 murder of George Henderson, or of the site where a Bristol Britannia crashed in 1958, killing 35 people. Other smaller aircraft accidents have happened here too, and it was also the scene of the 1896 Winter Hill mass trespass, when over 10,000 people protested against land enclosure. At 456 metres, the hill is now most recognisable for its large TV and radio mast.

Trespass Memorial

The road to nowhere

Pigeon Tower

Once across the M61, it's a short distance to Blackrod Railway station. An uninspiring "bar and grill" pub didn't look worth the wait between hourly trains.

This left time at Deansgate to make sure the Britons Protection was as I remember it. Looking good, but I don't think they have anywhere near the same number of whiskies.

Perfect Landlord, water chaser, no beer mats.

Walk Information

Start - Bromley Cross

Finish - Blackrod

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10, Stage 11, Stage 12, Stage 13

Distance -  13 Miles

Geocaches - 15

Walk Inspiration

20/05/25 - Greater Manchester Ringway - Stage 13

The River Irlam to the Peel Monument and a Roman Road

A lovely stretch of the Greater Manchester Ringway but why so few photos? 

Most of the 12 miles are walking along the River Irlam or climbing - some would say unnecessarily - to the Peel Tower, Ramsbottom. I knew I was going up there, but after such a lengthy climb, I am surprised the high ground was not kept for longer.

Pretty Irlam - fine walking, monotonous photos

Peel Tower - in praise of an C19th Rozzer and Prime Minister - A son of Bury

Views across to the Manchester Skyline

From the tower, it's a down and up to the remarkable Affetside. Now a tiny hamlet of a handful of cottages but strategically placed on an arrow straight Roman Road, Wailing Street. A medieval cross and a pub, which can't really expect us to believe that it dates from 1442. They proudly write the date on exterior wall but are far more coy about it being in the Good Beer Guide.

Having visited a JW Lees and a Holts in Bury yesterday, I get to complete the set. Hydes have the best beer of the three. The Quattro a very decent special bitter.

Proudly Emblazoned "Since 1442"

And very specific instructions on how to enjoy yourself

Jumbles Reservoir leads to the walk's terminus - Bromley Cross. The 3 p.m. train meant I can fight for a seat against the school kid hordes.

Walk Information

Start - Bury

Finish - Bromley Cross

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10, Stage 11, Stage 12

Distance - 11.5 Miles

Geocaches - 5

Walk Inspiration

19/05/25 - Bury by Night

Monday Night - Tricky for Ticking

A first visit to Bury. An overnight stay, so plenty of time, I looked to a Facebook Page (British Pubs) for inspiration of where to go. Of course, recommendations were made for practically every pub in town. Which shows there is a pub for every person; one man's meat is another man's poison.

They were quickly uploaded to my new favourite app - Bar Trek - which has a lovely feature when used in earnest. It shows what is open / closed and closing soon.

Useful for a Monday night, where 21st Century rules decree that no one wants to go out.

We can always rely on a 'Spoons. The Art Picture House showing off what Timbo does. A fine piece of architecture saved from decay. Super keen prices and service. I am making the most of the temporary promotion of Jaipur at £3. I can always go back to Leffe.

The Art Picture House

Glorious Interior

Tea sorted, but I had to inquire on Twitter whether steak is off all the 'spoons menus. Yes, since April. Along with the mixed grills.

Two Tubs next - a traditional pub with military leanings. A veterans group reserving the main back room, keen to show each other their models of Napoleonic soldiers in red tunics. I have Sean Bean shouting Bastard as an earworm for the rest of the night.

A Thwaites house, the gold was less memorable than the Pappadums.

The Two Tubs

Both Wyldes and Robert Peel are next door. The latter refused. If it's not good enough for JDW then its not good enough for me. Besides, it looked empty and devoid of anything comfy to sit on. Wyldes, simply so I could add another tick for the great family brewers of Manchester. Joseph Holts Bitter and a listen to a couple of old boys both lament and argue which is the current best pub in town. Should I trust them when they agreed on Murphys?

Strangely, it wasn't recommended by the Facebook Intelligentsia. 

No longer a 'spoons.

Wylde about Joey Holts

Monday night closed pubs next. As usual, possibly the two I was most looking forward to. Trackside - looks like one of those excellent railway pubs. Someone should create a tick-list. Broad Street Social a Good Beer Guide recommendation, for those whose palate deserves a change from Boring Brown Bitter.

The Trackside

Social, apart from Mondays

This leaves the Marketside Tavern - a small micro. Cask, Keg and Bottles aplenty but seemingly specialising on German brews. At £5, my Augustiner became the most expensive pint of the night.

Just add punters

Until I checked out Murphys.

19/05/25 - Greater Manchester Ringway - Stage 12

I'll never know Knowl Moor

I downloaded all the GPX files when the Greater Manchester Ringway was first devised. On checking the excellent on-line resource, I could see that I had managed to walk 3 miles less than the advertised 13 miles.

It would appear that Naden Brook has been bypassed in favour of the wind turbines of Knowl Moor. Things never stay the same, but do they improve? Not necessarily. This shaded track through the woods is perfect for the rare Manchester sunshine. 

Brookside

I discovered the owl telescope and have to zoom in on my mobile to see what the owls are looking for.

Owl Telescope

Funny Mancs!

The tiny hamlet of Birtle features two "Big Blue Cups of Joy on the OS Map". I had completed my research and the Church Inn was a COVID Victim. Although if the retired owners got their advertised £1m, then they will be set for life. I can't imagine they did.... how long would it take a business to recoup a million?

This leaves the Pack Horse. Right on my path and for a Monday Lunch time, packed solid with smartly dressed people over-spilling into the beer garden. Fortunately, I was able to get to the bar with no fuss and despite my very obvious ramblers gear was asked "are you with the wake?"

My big mouth costing me a free pint. Possibly.

A acquaintance with one of the three big Manchester brewers - JW Lees.

Pack Horse from the front

Handsome looking bitter, odd dimpled glass, utterly devoid of taste

Under the M66, an interesting lesson in what "Strangles" is, after a talk with a farmer when the signage made no sense to me and then following the River Irlam through Burrs Country Park to the fleshpots of Bury.

All the time with tomorrow's prize in sight.

Peel Monument in Ramsbottom - I'm bound to be climbing on Stage 13

Walk Information

Start - Norden

Finish - Bury

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10, Stage 11

Distance - 10 Miles

Geocaches - 6

Walk Inspiration

05/12/24 - Cottonopolis Manchester

Two Pubs and a Dive Bar

Winner of the shortest distance for a blogged walk. It is from an official walking guide, so don't blame me for its brevity. Less than a mile, exploring Manchester's rich past as a Global Trading Centre for the Cotton Industry.

It starts at a pub and recommends stopping at another - both of which were unticked since the launch of another specific book this time last year. So much inspiration, filling my days!

A pint before I even begin at Holts, The Old Monkey.

Monkey Magic

For some reason, I always had this down as a "Fun Pub". Maybe a previous visit had it packed with students. I've never felt compelled to revisit and have often hot footed past onto more revered hostelries. A basic Holts Pub, with the football on, bright lights and just a handful of punters took me a little by surprise. 

Third in the world to check in their seasonal ale - "Deck the Holts".

Why Not at this time of Year

I've hardly got going and its time to stop again. The City Arms - the middle of three boozers - in Kennedy Street. Always worth it - the beer quality is fantastic, even if I never fail to move on from Red Willows Feckless. Seemingly permanently on. Lucky enough to get a little table in the back bar.

A break in the gaspers

Fools?  A bit harsh, I hardly know them

Best concentrate on the walk. I'm looking for Portland stone buildings. I'm looking for Neptune on the top of the Manchester Ship Canal HQ. I take my life in my own hands by dipping into Back Fold Lane at night - the former location of a pond used to punish "lewds and scolds". File under sketchy.

The End of the Walk - The Royal Exchange

Walk over and time to kill. I have an entry saved in my google maps that even eluded Matthew Curtis in his "Manchester's Best Beer Pubs and Bars" book. 

Corbieres, A dive bar..... and Manchester's "Worst Kept Secret".

Down we go!

What goes on in Corbieres? Sorry - you'll have to go yourself to find out. I will say the music is beyond excellent.

24 Hour Party People indeed.

Walk Details

Distance - 1 Mile

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration - AZ Hidden Walks in Manchester, Walk 2 and Manchester's Best Beer Pubs and Bars.

24/08/24 - The Altrincham Drinking Scene

The Sunday Times Best Place to Live?

This is a blueprint for the dying high street. Simply re-invigorate a Market Hall, fill it with drinking and dining options and the punters will come flocking. Saturday lunch-time and there is a real buzz to the place. Outdoor tables and chairs fully taken everywhere. 

Table Service and Sofas in the Cinema

With two types of guide - Good Beer and knowledgeable would be locals (they are saving up) - we head out on an August Saturday to see what the bars are like. 

Costello's Bar - GBG #976

Micro Bar Number 1

I appreciate that the above image conflicts with my earlier "bustling Altrincham" comment but the rain had just started to hammer and it was early.

A showcase for the Dunham Massey Brewery hosted in the Goose Green area of Town. I've walked in the Dunham Massey estate but the beers have eluded me. A Stamford Best Bitter a perfect introduction.

You'd expect it to be perfect on its home ground.

The Market

Run by the people who bring you Mackie Mayor in the Northern Quarter. Thankfully, we had Gen Zedders to do the heavy lifting. Ordering three types of meal from phone apps and leaving me to navigate Jack in the Box old-school by walking up to the bar, like some sort of dinosaur.

Bringing punters to the Yard

Black Jack Pub Ale Best Bitter and people watching.

Rustic - GBG #977

The micro pub that didn't impress. 2pm opening time on a Saturday, when Google says midday.

Of course I was the first punter but I didn't really warm to the bar man telling me my Marble Pint had not been pulled through, even if he did offer to change it if I wasn't satisfied. Dirty glass. I'll watch with interest if its in the imminent 2025 or did I catch them on a bad day.

The view at 1:58pm

Belgian Bar

Our local guides told of a micro that does exactly what it says on the tin. Confirmation that Kwak is dispensed in the appropriate glass and bemusement when I offered my shoe as a deposit.

A fully continental drinking experience in Greater Manchester.

Kwakers

The Beacon - GBG #978

Slight confusion between the online GBG website and the book which details this place as PI. Presumably the same owners, as 18 Shaws Road remains recommended.

A fine blueprint for a micro, where a window seat provides street theatre viewing.

Red Willow Feckless in such good condition that we stayed for two.

AI representation of a perfect afternoon

I could have stayed for longer - but we had a pop music rendezvous with an artist that I had last seen in the flesh 39 years ago.

There is no need to guess which of us has changed the most.

Johnny Marr has a picture in his attic.

Just before another Wythensaw Boy, Billy Duffy, came on stage

 

23/08/24 - Greater Manchester Ringway - Stage 11

GM Ringway Brewery Adoption

All my long distance paths eventually adopt a brewery. I kept finding Rebellion on the Chiltern Chain Walk. Purity became the de-facto pint on the Millennium Way. 

For the Greater Manchester Ringway, it will have to be Brid's Cross.

A few social media interactions have recommended the best pubs in Rochdale. A comment on the last leg mentioned that I missed out at the Red Lion, where there is a permanent line. Today, through a little bit of serendipity, I stalk their entire vehicle fleet and gatecrash their 1st Birthday Party.

Its as if Storm Lillian wanted me to make their acquaintance. A change of travel plans, as trees on lines broke the rail network. 

This wasn't going to stop me from getting to Littleborough, where I had completed research to show the canal route out to the hills was blocked. Going through town allowed a lunch purchase at the bakery.

Today's route is similar to last couple - Geocache laden moorland, the Pennine Way and a couple of reservoirs. Watergrove at the start and Greenbooth at the end.

Wonderful, but samey walking. The Manchester skyline in view for long periods.

Long Sections of the Pennine Way

Manchester in the distance

Storm Lillian blows herself out

A navigational mistake at Healey Dell, where I should have been down on the valley floor, rather than on precipitous cliff paths above. But this led to the first indication that I was deep in Brid county. Sat on a bridge rampart, enjoying my very out of region Cornish Pasty, a 4x4 passes by. The spare wheel cover having the brewery logo to remind me what beer to look out for at walk conclusion. Who says that advertising doesn't pay?

The view I should have had, instead of car spotting

Not content with spotting one vehicle, I make to Broadly Fold and find another. If this is where Sean and Ruth live, you've got a geocache at each end of the road. At the Eastern end, look under a rock between the stumpy lamppost and footpath marker.

I appreciate I am getting close to stalking territory now

A drop down past Greenbooth Reservoir and into Norden, thankful for google maps helping me understand the Bee Bus Network.

I am looking for Baum - a Good Beer Guide 2024 recommendation and right up my Strasse. A shop conversion, that they have made to feel very pubby.

Baum - Toad Lane Conservation Area

Up to the bar, and I thought this was the regular cask line up. Transpires I had picked the breweries 1st anniversary birthday party tap takeover.

Love the Art

30 minutes to learn more about the brewery. Each of the beers has a folk story attached. I'm a bit of a folklore fan myself, often linking walks with folk tale locations. My chosen West Coast IPA, Under the Eildon Tree, telling the tale of Thomas the Rhymer.

It is a fine beer, with beautiful and distinctive artwork.

View from the comfy seats at the Baum

Want to know more about Brid's Cross Brewery?..... in another twist of fate, they are the subject of latest episode (94) on the Beer Prime Podcast. Discount code taken advantage of for export to Worcestershire.

Stage 12 will land me in Bury and I am open for recommendations :-)

Walk Information

Start - Littleborough

Finish - Norden

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10

Distance - 12 Miles

Geocaches - 14

Walk Inspiration