05/06/25 - Goathland, for the Birch Hall Inn at Beck Hole

Heartbeat, with Nick Berry

If you ever need cheering up, check out the TripAdvisor reviews for the Goathland Hotel. 2.8 and falling. AI Summaries coming up with "Expensive" and "Rude". I have had the "treatment" during my North Yorkshire Moors Inn Way.

Here are my comments from that fateful day.

And on to the Goathland Hotel, where the proprietor has changed the name to the Aidensfield Arms, to lure in the Nick Berry fanclub.

And talk about being careful what you wish for. The place is mentally busy with runaround kids, the indecisive elderly and the quite frankly insane and he is having to work like a trojan. I order my Black Sheep and he gives me the 1000 yard stare. I ask him if there is a problem. After a sigh and a pause he says "You haven't said if you want a pint or a half" in the most cheerless, morose Yorkshire accent imaginable.

That same day, I tried to visit the much more lauded Birch Hall Inn. Vague opening hours meant I was never going to be lucky when I couldn't control the time of arrival. No such issues this time. I have completed my homework and can strike from 11:30am on a Thursday.

Tourist bits in Goathland out of the way and we are on our way.

Aidensfield or Goathland

The route is rather good for walking dogs. A disused railway line where they can go off lead for a time. A quiet lane through remote moorland. More off lead walking through woodland as we try to find the Mallyan Spout Waterfall, but the recent drought has limited its impact.

Flat and straight

Stay on the paths

Wild Exploring

The first thing I notice about the Birch Hall Inn is that the door is ajar. Hallelujah! The second thing I notice is that a sign in the window says "Cash Only".

I dreamt about this last night. The only time I have significant cash is when getting my haircut at a Turkish Barbers by a barber that has never been to Turkey. Luckily, I have enough shrapnel in my rucksack to exactly afford a round of 1 pint, 1 half and a quarter of rhubarb and custard.

I am fairly confident in saying that this is the only pub in the land that is bisected by a sweet shop.

Let's bring you the photos.

Painting by the father of the actor that played Long John Silver in Treasure Island - Algernon Newton

The Hatch in the Big Bar - Sweets available

Not enough shrapnel to stretch to Buttered Beer Cake

Cash is King

Things I learned by talking to a faceless voice on the other side of the hatch;

• The current landlady has run the place for 44 years
• She took it on from a previous landlady who ran it for 54 years
• On the condition, she made no changes
• She did add a ladies loo, previously, they had to use the facilities in the upstairs lodging
• The most people in the small bar is 32.
• And 2 dogs
• They get a lot of regulars (quoits team), railway enthusiasts, walkers, pub aficionados and international tourists
• They don't open on Saturdays because of the hassle from pub crawlers completing the "Gallon Walk"
• Although I expect they do when it gets dark for the locals

A bucket list entry ticked off.

Can you tell I enjoyed my visit?

Walk Details

Distance - 5 Miles

Geocaches - 4

Walk Inspiration - Best Pub Walks on the North Yorkshire Moors and Coast, Walk 18

04/06/25 - Runswick Bay to Staithes for the Cod and Lobster

Civilised Opening Hours

As fine a coastal walk as you could hope for. Lung bursting ups and downs, dramatic (and crumbling) high cliffs and a lovely little village steeped in history to explore in Staithes.

Today, is mainly this.... the shanty town of Port Mulgrave below

There's a free museum at Staithes, which no doubt tells Captain Cook's story, with a mix of fishing history and alum rock mining.

We didn't get past the uniquely named Cod and Lobster Pub. 

Unless you count Mrs M's round at the bakery.

Not sure what more you could want from a pub. Outdoor seating, where all that separates you from an always changing sea view are some railings. A small, low ceiling bar inside for cozy chats with salty sea dogs - - or perhaps tourists from Cannock -  if the weather changes . Black Sheep and Timothy Taylor Landlord available from the very civilised 10am opening hours.

The dogs get a post pint hurrah on the beach and we head for cake.

Beach side views...

... of a perfectly positioned pub

As if the walk couldn't get better, we had a change of terrain for the return leg. Shun the bus back (unless the C&L keeps you longer than expected), cross the road and drop down into the deserted dingly dell of Oakbridge Woods.

Perfect off lead walking for dogs that had previously avoided fatigue.

The next day, they slept in. To 6.10am.

Contrasting Walk

Walk Details

Distance - 7.5 Miles

Geocaches - 1

Walk Inspiration - 40 Walks in North Yorkshire

03/06/25 - The River Esk Walk - Sleights to Whitby

Good Beer Guide Ticking

The River Esk Walk is a new medium distance path. 

The Esk Valley Walk is a scenic long-distance footpath in North Yorkshire, England, stretching approximately 35 miles from the village of Castleton to the historic coastal town of Whitby. This route offers a diverse walking experience, combining upland moorland, river valleys, and picturesque villages.

From our base in Sleights, it takes us exactly where we want to be. The tourist and pubby highlights of Whitby. The walking is functional, following sheep fields and railway lines. What is surprising is the lack of views of the river. If it wasn't for crossing at Ruswarp, we wouldn't have seen it at all until the estuary.

Where's the Esk?

Good signage

Usual tourist photos, alongside sail boats, up 199 steps and next to ruined abbeys that inspired fictional pointy toothed monsters. 

Time to add to the Good Beer Guide Ticks, from a previous visit to the area when we could only sit outside the few pubs that had chosen to open in Spring 2021.

The Black Horse would not have coped with covid. A squeeze through the front door to a tiny front room where you have to make friends with everyone. A couple of springer spaniels will aid that process significantly. 

Peaking Early - Today's Best Pub

This is one of those places that will improve through experience. A first visitor could be forgiven for thinking the front room is all there is - where two beers are available. Oddly, from Suffolk and Cornwall. However, there is another room around the back with some more LocALE offerings.

Conversations flowed with the landlord, the locals and the tourists until we reached the point when we had bored everyone and we were the last couple standing. Things we learnt? The landlord has never seen a ghost here but he had at his previous pub, the Hole in the Wall, York. Tapas in Yorkshire is Yapas. Obviously.

My type of gaff

Cultural Appropriation

We did head up the steps and have a revisit of the previously blogged Whitby Brewery.  A must visit on a sunny day.

Strategically positioning ourselves for public transport home, we head towards the station for one of the three trains a day. Not steam, regular Northern.

The Station Inn does nothing to dispel my suspicion that any pub named after railway infrastructure is likely to be a bit rubbish. It doesn't look great from the outside.

Ordinary Pub

Inside, it fares better. Multi roomed and apart from the stifling temperature, the little lounge, with its green leather bench seating, is a nice place to drink.

The drink? A poor example of Timothy Taylor Landlord in a dirty glass.  We move on.

Where better to wait for a train than The Waiting Room? Sister pub to the Saturday visited Arch and Abbey but unless you like cider, not quite as interesting.

Its the tiniest of micros. WhatPub listing it as 6 yards squared. Not sure it has more than four tables.

For me a micro needs to offer more than a regular pub to work. Four Cask, no Keg at all and a small collection of International bottles. Nine ciders could have been that unique offering, but not quite up my street. I like cider, but wouldn't know how to choose from a list of names and producers. There are all £4.95, so I would probably apply the same high ABV as I do to beer. 7% seems a bargain.

The cask - Abbeydale Absolution - was perfect. So it definitely warrants its place in the bible.

Last Train to Sleights leaves at 4pm

Amusingly, if you wish to use the facilities, you are forced to ask for the key, which is connected to a giant fob. Instructions say you must lock the door and return the key to the bar.

The place is that small that no one could sneak in for a crafty tinkle without the staff noticing.

Obviously, there was an incident that forced this policy to be implemented.

In other news, Northern Trains were ready for us at the allotted time. £7.80 for two for nine minutes.

Walk Details

Distance - 4 Miles

Geocaches - 5

Walk Inspiration - The Esk Valley Walk

01/06/25 - Robin Hood's Bay to Ravenscar

Sunday Lunch or Parmo?

Last time we walked these parts, we headed North on the Cleveland Way. It seems prudent to venture in the opposite direction on our revisit.

Mrs M, having studied Tripadvisor for hours, decides that the uniquely named Fylingdales Inn, just outside of Robin Hood's Bay, has one of the better Sunday lunches around. We remember the steepness of the road when dropping down to the bay, but no time to hang around, we are up and away on the Cleveland Way.

Team Photo

Regular Blogfans will notice two new members. A pair of Springer Spaniels who are my type of dog. Yesterday, they tried to drag me in the Little Angel in Whitby. When that failed, they tried again at the Grandby. I shall not forsake them a third time.

The Coast Path is grand, high and seemingly made of mud. Much is crumbling into the sea. With fences only on the inland side, the dogs remain on leads until whenever we drop down to a cove. The first, the Boggle Hole, does not pass the Mrs M sniff test. Having let them off for a splash, she quickly re-clips them saying it stinks. Of what I ask, only for another couple to answer "Shit". Northeners telling it like it is. 

I think I have deduced how the remote YHA plumbing works.

Looking backwards on the Cleveland Way to RHB

And forwards

There appears to be only a hotel at Ravenscar, so as soon as we can we pick up the Cinder Track, a wonderful disused railway that if we wanted, could take us all the way back. A mile can be saved by heading through sheep fields and picking it back up later. Dogs off leads, and great views of the coastal path we have just walked. Unlike Padstow, significantly less people on bikes dinging bells at us.

The Dog's Favourite Stretch

Finish at the pub, where I think the four of us deserve our refreshments. 

The Fylingdales is a solid Theakston house, doing a good trade in food. It is Sunday - the roasts are beef, pork or turkey - but a full menu is also available.

With six different types of Parmo on offer, I should have probably eaten a little more local.

But I don't regret the turkey - delivered quickly enough that most of the XB was still available to wash it down.

Parmo shunned

Walk Details

Distance - 8 Miles

Geocaches - 7

Walk Inspiration - 100 Walks in East Yorkshire, Walk 9

31/05/25 - The Arch and the Abbey, Whitby

Promenading

A familiarisation walk in Whitby. The last time we were here, it was April 2021 and Covid lock downs were in a strange place. We could eat and drink outside but many establishments had not bothered to reopen. A classic pub town was half lost. 

We're back and nothing can stop us now. The unvisited Good Beer Guide Pubs have been marked in Google Maps and it looks like a lot a week of micros. We'll start with one today.

Our walk is a simple stroll up the promenade to Sandsend - through golf courses and along the main road, where it would have made more sense to drop down to the beach.

Off the prom and onto the beach

The return is along a wonderful wooded route behind Saltmoore, a rather too splendidly posh looking hotel.

Off Lead

The route was downloaded from Komoot. Having shown us the beauty, it then meanders through housing estates, wanting us to be taken on a loop of the River Esk. I think we shall complete a walk from our digs at Sleights into town along the Esk, so we can save this for another day.

It's time to find a breakfast cafe and wait for the earlier openers. Midday. All of them.

The Arch and the Abbey is a fine micro in town. Pretty glass frontage announcing 50 plus craft beers. Dog friendly. Lovely Chesterfields. Lots of Belgian beers. A sister pub to the Waiting Room, where the loyalty card will get you a free pint after purchasing 9 others in either establishment

Today's first customers

Roosters Hazy Faced Assassin on keg. I can't remember the price, but the coffee seemed very good value at £2.20.

Haysi Fantayzee

Walk Details

Distance - 6.5 Miles

Geocaches - 4

Walk Inspiration - Komoot 

 

05/12/24 - Yarnbury Mines, Hebden Beck for the Grassington Pubs

Christmas Cake.... with Cheese

Day 2 in North Yorkshire and another cracking half day walk.

We leave Grassington Civilisation to head upwards, discovering iron age ruins and the location of the original village.

Today's Playground

Yomping on to Yarnbury

Yes, a slight navigational error was made. I should have been further west, but we got a feel for the ancient field systems and we arrived where we needed to be. Yarnbury, for a quite delightful beck-side drop through the mine workings.

Easy navigation home

One small problem.... the overnight rain has the beck in spate. We were meant to cross at stepping stones, which are just about visible under 9" of water. As ever, the trail will provide.

Unorthodox

Too early for the Clarendon Pub in Hebden but only a couple of miles along High Lane to re-enter Grassington.

A tea-shop sounds about right. Christmas Cake sounds like an accompaniment treat. Being asked if I would like a slice a Wensleydale reminds me why this is God's Country.

Now Then..... Tea, with a Chef's Swoosh

But we read the blog for the pubs, I hear a couple of blogfans cry? Well, I've been and blogged before but here is last night's summary, with this morning's photos.

The Devonshire is a posh Timothy Taylors gastropub. When busy, it feels great. When quiet a little soulless. The beer is perfectly kept and Bolt Maker is now edging it in their range for me.

The Devonshire

The Black Horse Hotel is now in the Good Beer Guide (as is the Foresters), providing an unexpected tick. Black Sheep House, and the seasonal Blitzen was in fine condition. They have a special on the food menu. Roast Turkey and all the trimmings with Christmas Pudding to follow. I ask for the Christmas Fayre and the waitress responds with "what, like a circus?". Apparently, Christmas Fayres are not national. Good food, good service, good beer and lovely internal Christmas decorations.

Fayre Enough

We expected The Foresters to be closed, having spotted on Facebook that the long term patrons had held a leaving party last week. The new management team are already in. The earthiest pub in Grassington and filled with proper pub goers. The Landlord was still £5.40 a pint.

'Ow Much! I believe the correct response to be.

Earthy Pubness

Walk Details

Distance - 6 Miles

Walk Inspiration - Mark Reid's Walking Weekends in the Yorkshire Dales, Walk 10

Geocaches - 2

04/12/24 - River Wharfe, from Grassington to Burnsall

Return to the First Inn Way Finale

It's good to be back in this part of the world. 8, nearly 9 years since I completed my first Inn Way (to the Yorkshire Dales) at the Fountaine Inn, Linton. The exact place where this walk - from Mark Reid's Walking Weekends - also finishes.

An easy out ramble along the River Wharfe. 

Linton Mill

River Wharfe

Loup Scar

Burnsall Bridge - the head back point

The Red Lion strategically place next to the bridge, and thankfully a pre-midday opener. A decent Dark Horse Brewery, Hetton Pale Abbey the reward.

Such handsome, solid pubs in this part of the world

The return is across ancient field systems for an all body work out. So many walls, with stone stiles and little swing gates to cross.

Yorkshire Adventure Playground

Linton, with the Fountaine Inn, provides the next stop - a mere half a mile from Grassington. Move on to the Craven Bitter from Dark Horse for liquid symmetry. 

Lovely to see the Inn Way sign still resplendent on the outside of the pub. Apparently, one of the few with the book stamp clicker still attached.

From Fontaines DC to Fountaine Inn

Number 26.... and the end of an odyssey

Walk Details

Distance - 8.5 Miles

Walk Inspiration - Mark Reid's Walking Weekends in the Yorkshire Dales, walk 9 

Geocaches - 1

03/12/24 - Leeds Urban Ramble for the Good Beer Guide Pubs

The Great Facebook Sparkler Row

I joined a new group on Facebook. Great British Pubs. After initial success posting visits to the Barton Arms in Birmingham and Fleece Inn in Bretforton, I thought I'd pop something up that amused me.

Harmless Fun

Less than a week after and the battle is still raging. 750+ reactions. 326 comments, arguing about what constitutes the North, spelling but most vociferously, the head on beer. I've not seen anything like it. I think I'll stick with less controversial posts in the future.

Over a couple of days, I tried to knock off my unvisited Leeds Good Beer Guide Pubs. A great pub city.  Of course, I have already ticked Whitelocks, before anyone questions its omission.

This was structured around a Fontaines DC Gig and an interesting six mile Urban Rambler that headed North to the Universities, through shopping arcades and the pretty bits by the River Aire.  

Thornton's Arcade

Down by the River

The pubs;

Town Hall Tavern was the location of the offending sign. Other comments mentioned the irony that the prices in here were higher than London. A Timothy Taylor House, so either time to experiment with something new and lesser spotted or try and put to bed whether Boltmaker is better than Landlord.

The Town Hall Tavern

Choose your poison

The Templar next. Mrs M not entirely happy with a rather smelly lounge. I was more than happy with this Grade II listed drinking den. Not least, because we had hit Monday Night Cask Club. 

Greene King but actually OK

Ossett White Rat for £2.30

The North Bar concluded Monday nights outing. I will be forever grateful for the bar staff pointing out that my 6% NEIPA (not outrageous) would have been £9.40 a pint (very outrageous). Good grief!  Not for me, I am afraid.

Still expensive, Heart and Soul by Vocation Brewery

A better start to Tuesday, with the handsome Duck and Drake. Bang on midday and Mrs M questions whether it is actually open. Not only is it open, but already nice and busy, with punters jostling for position in front on the roaring fire.

Victorian Classic

Roosters Yankee

Almost opposite is the far less authentic Lamb and Flag. I dunno, somehow they have made a C19th century building done out in a traditional pub style feel nothing like a pub. It didnt have that lived in charm. Too sanitised. A very poor pint of Leeds Brewery Midnight Bell, which I would have surely returned had Mrs M not had an altercation about the temperature of her flat white. We don't want to be labelled problem customers, do we?

Leeds Brewery Flagship

Very strong vinegar taste in the Midnight Bell

Thornbridge to the rescue, with The Bankers Cat. Opulent, hotel bar feel, with high seats around a central bar and lots of leather. Kelham Pale Rider in perfect condition.

A bit of luxury

Finally, the rather anonymous Tapped. No photos, as little to see from the outside and a modern cafe type feel on the insider. Complete with brewing vessels. Plenty of choice of cask, keg, bottles and cans. 

Wapentake, an interesting looking delicatessen of Yorkshire delights, remains the final City Centre tick. Doesn't open until Wednesday at 9am.

Walk Details

Distance - 7 Miles

Geocaches - Many Adventure Lab Caches

Walk Inspiration - Urban Rambles