21/04/26 - The West Midlands Way Summary

 

The West Midland Way is a 50 year old walking route. Starting at Meriden, rumoured centre of England, it charts a circular route through Warwickshire, Worcestershire, Shropshire and Staffordshire. Hand drawn maps are always a challenge, but it was simple enough to plot, with many of the paths incorporated into established Long Distance Paths. The North Worcestershire Way and Heart of England Way were frequently visited.

Highlights

The route started with well connected by public transport locations. 

Stage 4 offered superb walking - the first time I have walked the Lickey Hills, Clent Hills and Waseley Hills on the same route - utilising the North Worcestershire Path.

Plenty of new and interesting discoveries - not least arriving at Rugeley to follow an Adventure Lab Cache detailing the life of the "Prince of Poisoners".

My adaption of the route included some fine drinking towns. Bridgnorth, Lichfield and Tamworth for the three times winner of CAMRA Pub of the Year. Bathams at the Three Horsehoes in Alverley, was possibly the best way I have ever waited for a bus. The bus stop right outside.

Lowlights

I will never understand why the route designers, Ron and Eric, missed out Lichfield. Looked like they did this on purpose, as the route detoured around it. Of course, I had to include it for public transportation. 

Seeing one man bring the entire North/South Railway network to a standstill by smoking cigarettes on the bridge just outside Penkridge Station was a lesson in woke policing.

Warwickshire is the most boring county to walk in - so the ending was not particularly fitting. Boring fields gave way to two miles of road walking, which could only be avoided by adding serious miles to an already long route. 

Meriden hides its only pub away from the town centre - which meant delayed celebration.

The Stages

Stage 1 - Meriden to Kenilworth

Stage 2 - Kenilworth to Henley-in-Arden

Stage 3 - Henley-in-Arden to Alvechurch

Stage 4 - Alvechurch to Hagley

Stage 5 - Hagley to Kinver

Stage 6 Part 1 - Kinver to Alverley

Stage 6 Part 2 - Alverley to Bridgnorth

Stage 7 - Bridgnorth to Shifnal

Stage 8 - Shifnal to Penkridge

Stage 9 - Penkridge to Rugeley

Stage 10 - Rugeley to Lichfield

Stage 11 - Lichfield to Tamworth

Stage 12 - Kingsbury to Meriden

21/04/26 - West Midlands Way - Stage 12 - Kingsbury to Meriden

I Finished Something!

The West Midlands Way - a fifty year old book, charting a route around the West Midlands - comes to an end.

Due to strange logistics, I have been forced to amend the second half of the route - for the life of me, I cannot understand why Ron and Eric, the route planners, missed out Lichfield and Tamworth. Fine towns but more importantly, public transport hubs.

It was Tamworth that I found myself finishing Stage 11 at. No matter how I planned it, I couldn't find decent paths to get to Kingsbury but there is a handy bus.

I've walked this part of the world extensively on the Heart of England Way and the Centenary Way. I have previously pronounced Warwickshire the country's most boring walking county. 

Two out of three ain't bad

Nothing today has prompted me to change my mind. Kingsbury Water Park offers occasional glimpses of bodies of water through the woodland. Shustoke Reservoir is hardly observed from the footpaths that circumvent it. There are endless agricultural fields - devoid of livestock and crops (at this time of year). One pub - The Swan at Whitacre Heath - so "chainy" that it wasn't worth stopping at.

The only chance to see Shustoke Reservoir

Distant views of Birmingham from a field in Warwickshire

The only item of interest on the map is Maxstoke Priory and this is a disappointment. The church is locked up and the remains of the priory - a couple of walls in a poor state of repair - are hidden from view on private land.

Maxstoke Church

Ideally, I would have liked to end things here. There are two miles of road walking to get back to Meriden. A bus would be handy but it only runs on a Wednesday - and then at 10am! Google Maps was checked for likely traffic and/or grass verges. It was safe enough to walk but I needed the Deserter Podcast to keep my spirits up.

Into Meriden - and despite the green, a memorial to the centre of England and a monument to British Cycling, there is no pub at hand. The Bull's Head another quarter of a mile on from the bus stop.

The Actual Centre of England is at Fenny Drayton

An underwhelming end to an interesting experience which started so well.

Walk Details

Distance - 12 Miles

Geocaches - 4

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6 (Part 1), Stage 6 (Part 2), Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10, Stage 11

20/04/26 - The Bridge Hotel, Stanford Bridge

Hospitality Horrors

Our plan was to use the Bridge Hotel Car Park - complete a 9 mile walk - and reward ourselves with a pint.

Even with today's prices, I am unsure whether this would have met the terms and conditions.

How to drive away customers

The route is from the Ramblers. Paths were better than anticipated in a remote corner of Worcestershire, but I have had to notify the council. A padlocked wonky gate, which even has the Right of Way Marker on the post. All added to to the outdoor gymnasium of clambering stiles and fallen trees.

As pleasurable as it was, little to report. We didn't quite make it to the door of the impressive Georgian Gothic Church at Stanford. The Sapeys (Upper, Lower, Common) have no infrastructure. We saw sheep, cattle, deer, hares, an owl but only one human. The farmer at Noverton fixing his gate.

Clifton-on-Teme Church

Worcestershire / Herefordshire views

Nearly 4 hours later and I would love to bring you a report on the pub. Mrs M quite strict in her instructions of "sod them".

Don't upset Mrs M

Walk Details

Distance - 9 Miles

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration

 

17/04/26 - Birmingham Culture

Needless and Peaky

The latest West Midlands History Podcast features the Peaky Blinders. It was only a matter of time. Carl Chinn enthusiastically reminding the listeners that they are not to be glamourised and were simply street thugs. And then going on to glamourise them for the next 30 minutes.

Finding Peaky Blinders locations in Birmingham is a little like shooting fish in a barrel. In fact, an Arthur and/or Tommy mural in a pub has now replaced Alsatians on a flat roof pub as the international measure of roughness. 

Coincidentally, I had just finished a book set in Birmingham and during the same time period, Needless Alley. 

Needless Alley is a crime novel set in 1933 Birmingham. William Garrett, a struggling private detective, makes his living staging divorce “honey traps” with his friend Ronnie Edgerton, an out-of-work actor. Their work brings William into contact with Clara Morton, the unhappy wife of a wealthy fascist, and he falls in love with her. When murder and corruption follow, William is drawn into Birmingham’s criminal underworld and canal-side backstreets.

The main characters are William Garrett, the troubled detective; Ronnie Edgerton, his witty but reckless partner; and Queenie Maggs, Ronnie’s tough, resourceful sister who lives on a narrowboat and knows the canal world better than anyone.

Rather fortuitously, there are walking routes pre-made for both Peaky Blinders and Needless Alley. I am able to just get on with walking, spotting key locations.

Book Title and Location of William's Private Detective Agency 

The Grand Hotel - Trysts between Clara and William

Art Gallery and Museum - William and Clara's first date

Gas Street Basin - Queenie lives on a Barge

Jon Jones Mural in Hill Street for the launch of the Peaky Blinders Film

Electric Cinema (looking increasingly sad) - Where William watched Marlene Dietrich movies 

A refreshment interlude. William often meets Ronnie in the White Swan, Digbeth. Last month, I visited this rough and ready pub by error, confusing it for the recently renovated and reopened Anchor.

It's not too surprising a mistake to make. Both pubs were built by the same firm - James and Lister Lea - share the same terracotta brick style and are located on the same street. In the interests of variety, I make the Anchor my port of call. 

An added incentive - the best track on Katherine Priddy's new album, Hurricane, was filmed there.

It's good to have the Anchor back. A Tardis-like multi-roomer, which cries out to be explored. And the chance of a first Bass of the year. Permanently on, Quinno.

Very similar to the White Swan

The light didn't work for the reverse photo

That dog was in the White Swan last month

The Peaky Blinder walk would have had me drinking in the Rainbow. The first mention of the Peaky Blinders in print. Carl Chinn explains;

“An ‘inoffensive chap’ called George Eastwood had been drinking in the Rainbow pub on the corner of High Street, Deritend and Adderley Street. The teetotaller was picked on by three hard men on the evening of March 23, 1890 – and all because he had a non-alcoholic drink. There is a bit of a row, but it dies down. Later, at about 11pm, George decides to go home. The hard men had already gone, so he must have thought it was safe – but as he was walking underneath the Adderley Street viaduct, he hears them shouting at him and then they brutally assault him under one of these two viaducts. One on the attackers was a chap called Thomas Mucklow, another was called Groom. The identity of the third man is still unknown. Groom punched George before they all started kicking with their boots along the street. And then Groom took off his heavy leather belt – these had thick brass buckles and they would wrap it around their wrist and leave about eight inches free, buckle it together and they would slash! Poor old George took so many beatings from the belt and the kicking and the punch that he was in hospital for three weeks. On the Monday night, the Birmingham Mail reported that this brutal assault was carried out by the gang of Peaky Blinders. It was the first time – March 1890 – that the term ‘Peaky Blinders’ had appeared in print.”

This would have been interesting for the walk - but unfortunately, the pub keeps night-time opening hours only.

The Rainbow - looking better during yesteryear

The back streets of Digbeth providing Peaky Blinder menace and the occasional artwork reminders. Montague Street, with the best mural of the day.

King of the Blinders - part of a much bigger art work

Not Peaky at all

Walk Details

Distance - 4.75 Miles

Geocaches - 4

Walk Inspiration - History WM Podcast and The Book Trail