04/11/26 - On the Trail of...... Alfred Watkins

Ley Line Hunting

Alfred Watkins wrote the first book on Ley Lines. Published just over 100 years ago, his academic study in The Old Straight Track noticed that ancient landscape features - churches, stone circles, hill forts, ford crossings, etc - often line up in a dead straight line.

The Man...

.. and his work

The book is a game changer for those that like exploring outside. It's highly dubious that Ley Lines actually exist. He argues in the book against popular counter arguments - such as the Lines taking difficult paths and artefacts being from a different age. More compellingly, modern sceptics have been able to draw Ley Lines between modern things - like BT telephone boxes. But the chapters do compel the walker to consider why things are built where they are and where places get their names from. A brilliant chapter on how often the name Cole (corrupted to Cold) appears in the British landscape. Cole - a name for a magician and carrier of a sighting staff.

Herefordshire Council has published a series of day walks and a Watkins Long Distance Path.

Walk 1 takes us to the place he had his revelation - a minor, non-descript crossroads just outside Risbury.

“Suddenly”, his son Allen would recount, “the scales fell from Watkins’ eyes and his mind was flooded with a rush of images forming one coherent plan. The realisation came to him that over many long years of prehistory all trackways had been marked out in straight lines by experts on a sighting system”.

The ley ran, he suggested, from an initial point on top of Croft Ambrey, down Croft lane, through the Broad, a hamlet south of Luston, up to this point at Blackwardine crossroads, over Risbury Camp all the way to the old Roman station on the high ground of Homend Bank at Stretton Grandison. So, the The Blackwardine Ley was the first one ever proposed.

Of course, I was going to walk it.

Little to see at Risbury, but as Watkins documented on his line, there is an ancient fort. Unusually, it's not on a hill but has contained man-made ramparts next to Humber Brook.

Risbury Camp - A hill fort - without the hill

Gob's Castle is the next item noted on the map - alas, it transpires that this is a ruined farm house in the middle of nowhere. Unusual for something so mundane to have such a grand title.

Who was Gob?

The Society of Ley Hunters have erected a standing stone to Watkins at Blackwardine crossroads. It's just not that easy to find! There is a small post, which I initially mistook for my quarry. I could see the letters A T E R etched into the flank and wondered what the connection to Watkins could be. After taking photos - now deleted and never to be mentioned again - I noticed the letter W at the top of the pole.

The standing stone and a memorial marker are located on the other side of the hedge, inside the grounds of a natural cemetery.

Not a municipal marker

Humber Court and Church provide the final interest on the walk. Alas, the church is not "doors open" but I did find the clergyman's name.

Would you believe me if I told you it was Reverend Cole?

Humber Church

Walk Details

Distance - 5.25 miles

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration - Walking with Watkins, Walk 1

02/11/26 - All Hallows Pilgrimage

Worcestershire's Oldest Yew Trees

A simple brief for the latest Celtic Pilgrimage for All Hallows. 

It’s the season of thinning veils, when ancestors and departed loved ones are thought of as being nearer than usual. Walk to a local graveyard, light a candle, do the old things we have always done. The Irish and Mexican traditions show us how feasting and merriment are part of honouring too. In Britain, a walk to an ancient yew tree can hold this mood, a reminder that death and life are entangled.

ChatGPT tells me that the oldest yew trees in Worcestershire are at St Nicholas Church in Warndon. Located on the outskirts of Worcester and subject to myriad housing estates, there are enough remnants of the old land available in well maintained green corridors and occasional woodland. 

First the church. Dating from the 12th century, St Nicholas stands on the site of an ancient settlement and is thought to have origins stretching back to Anglo-Saxon times. Its most striking feature is the black-and-white timber-framed tower, added in the late 15th or early 16th century. Remarkably, the church escaped Victorian restoration, retaining much of its medieval character, including 14th-century features and old box pews.

Wooden Tower at Warndon

It's "Doors Open" but I didn't expect it to be occupied. The church organist, Alan, practicing. A friendly fella, he gave me a leaflet and asked my favourite hymn. I replied "as a Baggie, it would have to be the Lord is my Shepherd". He stretched his fingers and played something completely different. Alan is a Wolves fan.

The box pews and font

The yew trees matched up to ChatGPT's recommendation. Two, seemingly consuming the headstones and with little ribbons tied into the branches.

Yew

Exact age unknown

There is an official Warndon Heritage Trail that follows many of the same paths on the Wild About  Worcester route followed this time last year.

Inspirational Benches

Amongst the housing, ancient oaks.

A short but pleasant walk and I meet the 35 bus back to town - not quite at a bus stop, but with enough pleading in my eyes and waving of hands that the driver takes pity.

The Horn and Trumpet is an unexpected entry in my Historic Inns of Interest book. 

It's still owned by Marston's - who over the years have knocked all those aforementioned bars together into one continuous space. Sports screens dominate and it's an early opener - attempting to compete with 'Spoons for the Carling with Breakfast brigade. Surprisingly, they do get some trade from those that think JDW is below them.

A previously unvisited Marston's

Walk Details

Distance - 2.5 miles

Geocaches - 2

Walk Inspiration - Warndon Village Heritage Trail 

Previous Celtic Pilgrimages - Imbolc, Spring Equinox, Beltane, Summer Solstice, Lammas, Autumn Equinox and Michaelmas

29/10/26 - Angela Marsons - Evil Games

Completing the Amblecote Triangle - It's Murder

Book 2 in the West Midlands Based Kim Stone detective book series providing the inspiration for exploration.

A significant literary improvement on book 1, and a nice cat and mouse mystery between Kim and a worthy adversary. A psycho-analyst convincing her patients to commit crimes. An amusing and entertaining villain and the reader is provided with an interesting back story for Kim. A 4.5/5 review.

The main crime sees a rape victim taking unexpected revenge, following her therapy session. 

"And even that frail facade had been destroyed three months earlier when she'd passed a pub on the Thorns Road and seen her attacker leaving with a dog by his side"

"A dark gulley ran along the side of an end terrace that stretched up towards Amblecote, one of the finer parts of Brierley Hill"

There is only one pub left on the Thorns Road.

Leaving Lye Station

Victims last drink - the Thorns

I've no idea what the pub is trying to be at the moment. It's listed on Pubs Galore as The Koyla Kitchen - a Thai restaurant. Yet it still runs an afternoon carvery. I checked in case I could experiment with something different to a pad thai, but all I found were Yorkshire puddings.

Sometimes, all you need is a first impression to make up your own mind as to the type of venue it really is.

You go out for a half with a pair of shoes...

The scene of crime alley running adjacent.

Suitably grim

The text describes how the alley leads to Amblecote - the jewel of Brierly Hill. I can plot a walk that is more interesting on the 1890s map than the current OS Map. Where once there were foundries and pits they is now an endless housing estate, sometimes hiding footpaths that will get me to Amblecote.

A worthy destination for the beer enthusiast. A little triangle of roads contains four regular Good Beer Guide Pubs, all with keen pricing. A chance for me to tick off the Swan and who could ignore the Robin Hood. One of the Telegraphs Top 500 pubs in the land.

The Swan

An unnecessary roaring fire on entry - after my walk, I need to position myself on some smart leather benching as far away as possible. A standard selection of cask - with a couple from Hobsons, including a never before seen Town Crier Green Hop.

And onwards to the Robin Hood - a showcase for the best beer in the Black Country. There aren't many places where you can have both Sarah Hughes Dark Ruby and Bathams Bitter. It's always worth stopping for two.

A Mappiman Top 10 Pub

Walk Details

Distance - 4 Miles

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration - The locations in Evil Games, by Angela Marsons.

27/10/26 - Westminster to Mayfair Pub Crawl

Coffee and Halves only

My morning in Westminster finishes bang on ten. Now for a pub crawl. Yes, in London, it's possible to start this early - and without visiting Timbo. Although your wallet will have wished that you had.

Joolz is my guide - and I have to say, the pubs seem secondary to a fine Mayfair walk, which brings to my attention various locations that my recent walk failed to highlight. Scanning the QR code in the guidebooks redirects you to an entertaining video, which hardly mentions the pubs at all. Odd for a London Pub Walks book.

The 10am opener is the Westminster Arms. A strange Shepherds Neame pub that seems oddly devoid of furniture. Just a handful of high stools around the window frames. The Campaign for Comfy Sofa restarts here. 

Bill Clinton and Angelina Jolie former patris

There is a little clue as to the reason for this - one of three pubs in the area with a division bell. I've never heard it ring - giving politicians eight minutes to get back to their place of work - but I have seen it go from empty to a scrummage in moments, as our elected elite flood the place. I imagine this doesn't happen so often now, with heavily subsidised bars in their place of work more appealing in a cost of living crisis.

Token Halloween decorations

Having the place to myself, allowed for a good photo of the one feature of this pub worth seeing - the gorgeous bar back. The rest of the visit, the worst of hospitality. I asked if they did coffee and I could tell from the barman's face they did but he couldn't be arsed. He then went on to talk loudly to the other staff member, slagging off last night's customers.

Fair-do's if they were politicians.

Almost worth the entry fee.

Around the corner to the Two Chairmen. An C18th pub, with comfy seats and a working coffee machine. Greene King - named after sedan carriers, rather than stalwarts of business and plushly unmemorable. 

Two Chairmen

Decent range for a GK - Jaipur ignored for arabica

Into Mayfair, via the Waterloo Steps. The Red Lion, a fine recommendation, not quite open. One of Len Deighton's London Dossier recommendations, it's a real beauty inside.

Fullers Finest

The Chequers takes some finding, with its very narrow frontage. For the area, very working class, right from its 1717 origins. The local coachmen used to while away the time playing chequers on the doorstep, forcing its name change from the Masons Arms. In 2026, these working class roots run to a fine sausage and onion baguette. Other toasted sandwiches are available. And bang average London Pride.

Orderly queue for the Chequers

I'd noticed Ye Grapes, in Shepherd's Market on my previous walk and vowed to come back. Alas, the beauty is mainly limited to the outside. The Ghost Ship, near undrinkable.

Disappointment

Joolz points out 48 Upper Grosvenor Street - the location of a piece of particularly racy London folklore. Home of the Duchess of Argyll and location of the infamous "headless man" photo. The Duchess was also in it. In the nip, apart from a pearl necklace, and performing a service. The jewellery apt, as it is how this particular story ended.

Things that happen beyond closed doors

Across Grosvenor Square, via The Barley Mow and down a little mews back street is a lovely sculpture of Terence Donovan taking a photo of Twiggy. The statue providing more memories than the Barley Mow. A pub that doesn't do nuts but does olives tells you everything you need to know.

Bourdon Street - if you are looking for it

A last bit of art - possibly the oldest outdoor statue in London graces the door of Sothebys. Sekhmet, the Egyptian goddess of healing dating from 1300BC. Cleopatra's Needle might be able but is it an artefact, rather than a statue?

Future Quiz Question

And the final pub - The Mason's Arms - a classic of the 1930s Mock Tudor style. A decent line up of Yorkshire Cask and a 25% discount for card carrying CAMRA members.

Probably pub of the day for the half of Old Peculiar.

Mock Tudor in Mayfair

Half pint jug

Walk Details

Distance - 3.75 miles

Walk Inspiration - Joolz Splendid Pub Walks, Walk 13

Previous Joolz Pub Walks - Bayswater, Hackney