05/02/26 - On the Trail of..... George Dawson

The Civic Gospel

During my ramblings around Birmingham, you often stumble on magnificent Victorian buildings. Usually they are running to rack and ruin, and I am not just talking about Aston pubs. As I trip over dead rats and pick my way through the mountains of rubbish, I often consider "what went wrong?". The city used to have pride and purpose, with an obvious sense of "betterment".

The latest History West Midlands podcast gave me the background on this. George Dawson, a Nonconformist preacher who proclaimed "Everything for Everybody". The more famous Joseph Chamberlain took his words and vision to build a Birmingham that was once the envy of the civilised world.

A young George Dawson

George Dawson (1821–1876) was a Nonconformist preacher and radical thinker whose ideas helped shape Victorian Birmingham’s sense of civic purpose. Minister of the Church of the Saviour from 1847, he moved away from orthodox theology towards a broad, humane Christianity rooted in everyday life rather than doctrine. His sermons, rich in literature and moral urgency, argued that religion should be lived and enacted, not merely believed.

Dawson’s central idea, later known as the Civic Gospel, held that the city is a moral organism and that local government has a duty to improve human life. Clean streets, public libraries, parks, and education were seen as expressions of ethical and spiritual values, not luxuries. These ideas strongly influenced Joseph Chamberlain, who absorbed Dawson’s thinking and translated it into active municipal reform as Birmingham’s mayor in the 1870s, turning moral vision into practical governance.

"A city must have its parks as well as its prisons, its art gallery as well as its asylum, its books and its libraries as well as its baths and washhouses, its schools as well as its sewers; it must think of beauty and of dignity no less than of order and of health."

As if I couldn't admire the man more, it transpires that when he was invited by the Temperance Movement to provide a speech, he extolled the virtues of drinking.

But is it possible to put a walk together to find key locations of the man's life?  

A statue would have been nice. There was one - in the middle of Chamberlain square. Not universally liked and removed in 1951 for the Festival of Britain. The bust lives in a museum dungeon somewhere.

We won't let this stop me.

The Library of Birmingham

Our man played a key role in the 300th year celebrations of Shakespeare's Death. On the 9th floor of the new Library of Birmingham is both a plaque to the man and the current home of the Shakespeare memorial room.

The library is perhaps a symbol of Birmingham's decline. Built in 2013 to much fanfare and cost (£188 Million), it cannot afford to be staffed properly and keeps poor opening hours. Thus wrote a man forced to wait in the foyer for the 11am opening. The cafe is closed. Books? Despite having 10 floors, Kidderminster library has more on its shelves. 

Everything to Everybody

Moved from Old to New

The Shakespeare Room - Top Floor

A Bust

Chamberlain Square and the Arts Museum

These buildings provide the best architectural representation of the principles of the Civil Gospel. Classically designed and open to all to encourage learning. 

A first visit to the Arts Museum, which was rather packed. The Ozzy Osbourne exhibition is still running and bringing in the punters. Imagine what they could do with The Crown pub, if they showed a bit of imagination.

The Art Museum

The Ozzy Exhibition

Chamberlain Square

His Final Resting Place

Key Hill Cemetery, Section O, to the left hand side of the Icknield Street entrance. Internet research tells me to look for the tallest obelisk. I needn't have relied on the Internet. There is a handy map of key final resting places. I have a feeling the West Midlands History Podcast will be bringing me back here for other sons and daughters of the second city.

Easy Find

Died young - well remembered

02/02/26 - St Brides Day - Halesowen to Hagley

The Imbolc Pilgrimage

A wonderful article in the December 2025 Idler magazine promoted walking pilgrimages based on ancient festivals throughout the year.

February 1st sees St Bride's Day and Imbolc;

Imbolc, celebrated around 1 February, marks the quiet turning point between winter and spring. Rooted in early Irish tradition and later associated with St Brigid (or St Bride), it is a festival of renewal, light, and potential rather than arrival or abundance. Traditionally linked to lambing, fresh milk, and the lengthening days, Imbolc focuses on what is beginning to stir beneath the surface: the cleaning of hearths, the lighting of fires, and visits to sacred wells. It is a threshold moment in the year, attentive to small signs of change, when survival gives way—cautiously—to hope.

The suggested itinerary for an Imbolc inspired walk: to find a holy well.

I'd already thought of St Kenelm's Well in Clent when the monthly Walk West Midlands newsletter arrived in my inbox. Everything is connected - their feature walk is a linear route from Halesowen to Hagley. The only decision to be made is which direction to travel. Roberto's Bar for interesting world beers or the King Arthur for Bathams. Start-of-the-week opening hours make the choice for me. 

I alight the 192 bus in West Halesowen, practically on the Clent foothills. A muddy climb leads up to St Kenelm's Church and well.

St Kenelm's Well

According to legend, St Kenelm, a 9th-century Mercian prince, was murdered as a child on the Clent Hills, and when his hidden body was discovered a spring burst from the ground, now known as St Kenelm’s Well. This well is traditionally regarded as one of the sources of the River Stour, which rises from several springs on the Clent Hills before flowing south-west through the Black Country and into Worcestershire. The story of Kenelm’s death and translation is commemorated today by St Kenelm’s Way, a long-distance walking route that traces the legendary journey of his body from the hills near Romsley to his shrine at Winchcombe Abbey, linking landscape, water, and story into a single, enduring sacred geography.

 The well is met first.... a trickle of water falling into a bricked conduit. I am not the only one "celebrating" Imbolc. The nearby bushes are decorated with hung fabrics and at the source of the water, a St Bride's cross fashioned out of reed.

Located to the north east of the church - downhill

St Bride's Cross at the Well

The small church is "doors open" and demands exploration. An ancient semi-circular tympanum above the door representing "Christ in Majesty". Inside, a more modern wooden carved screen denoting the last supper.

Two raised fingers - Christ divine and mortal

Judas carrying the purse - John resting on Jesus' shoulder. Peter, unusually for the Last Supper with keys

The Walk Midlands route creator likes road walking. At least I am out of the mud. A drop down St Kenelm's Pass and then across to the main Clent village. The decision on whether to turn this into a pub crawl is taken out of my hands. Too early for the Vine. The newly reopened Fountain doesn't open on a Monday. And the Lyttelton Arms is only for first dates.

As planned - it's a quick Bathams at the King Arthur - timed to perfection with 40 minutes until the return 192 bus. Busy with pensioners and eaters of cobs and pork pies.

Hagley High Street

Happy Mondays - it's Bathams

Walk Details

Diatance - 6 Miles

Geocaches - 3

Walk Inspiration

29/01/26 - Rail Trail - Ashchurch to Cheltenham

Highest Part of the Cotswolds

A new website discovery. A rail-trail enthusiast from the West Country is plotting routes between stations. That's right on track for me.

Ashchurch (for Tewkesbury) to Cheltenham looked interesting, but on reflection I should have waited for a better day weather-wise. It wasn't raining but climbing to the Cotswold ceiling in the mist kind of missed the point of the potential views.

From the station, low agricultural land of no merit leads to the Gloucestershire way and the sleepy villages of Oxenton and Gotherington.

Gloucestershire Way short on thrills

Only Iron Age Hillforts can save the day. Nottingham Hill and Cleeve Cloud are part of the same escarpment, each with an ancient hillfort. The former wooded, with an arrow-straight footpath running up and over. The later is wild common land with a rather dramatic golf course. It appears that you can walk anywhere. With the inclement weather, there are no worries about being hit by flying golf balls.

Nothing to see on Cleeve Cloud. Biting wind to feel

A drop down to Cheltenham Racecourse for a handily placed bench providing a perfect lunch stop. The festival starts in 6 weeks, and many memories were made from the 15 years consecutive attendance until Covid got in the way. The live music was always better than the horses.

Of course, the mist clears once I am off the hills

My route avoids the town centre, utilising the disused Honeybourne Rail line as a corridor back to the train station. Fortunately, 2024 has seen a pub/pizzeria open adjacent. Here serve better post-walk refreshments than previously found at the only alternative, Tesco Express.

Jubilee bridge on the disused railway line

Steam and Whistle, in battleship grey

Surprisingly good cask - Bristol Beer Factory Fortitude

Walk Details

Distance - 14 miles 

Walk Inspiration

Geocaches - 4

23/01/26 - Ludlow Pub Crawl

Pub Rules

The most epic bus journey from Kidderminster. The 292 still runs hourly, taking you through Bewdley, Cleobury Mortimer, Clee Hill before dropping me off outside the Ludlow Brewery. Over an hour after setting off.

The Ludlow Brewing Company

A civilised 11am opener on the days that it is open. Even though I am early, I'm not the first in. Which is encouraging. 

Next to the railway

Somehow, the advanced party ignored the wood burner next to my seat

I have the feeling that I have peaked already. There is food. There is atmosphere. Constant movement from the staff actually making the stuff we love. And as you would expect, the beer is in absolutely perfect condition. My Stairway - a 5% IPA - as good a pint as I have ever had.

I loved it and the bus journey is already a distant memory.

The Feathers

The architecture cannot be ignored and the first clue for my adventure lab cache.

Formerly the Griffin Inn, which may help future ALC-ers

A timber framed coaching inn from 1642. Trust me, all the beauty is on the outside and there is little need to explore the internals. Even if liveried waiters were poised to bring you Ludlow Gold.

The Charlton Arms

My exploration took me downhill to the ancient bridge. On the other side is the Charlton Arms. A sticker on the door boasting that it is in a "Top 50 Gastropub 2025".

The Charlton Arms - Across the Teme

A view from a bay window

For a gastropub - it's OK. There is a separate bar for the drinkers - and the Ludlow Gold was in fine condition. The comfy seats (and wall sockets) are in a pre-dining area, where the hungry wait to be called into the dining room. The view from the bay window is a joy.  Recommended? Well, it's a bit out of the way and there are plenty of other options.

The Wheatsheaf

Chosen for its external architectural interest. It's literally built into the City Walls, with a narrow gateway where you can watch drivers of SUVs try and squeeze through the narrow gap.

With bravery, you can drive through the gatehouse

One old fella who couldn't finish his chips inside. I looked hopeful when they came to collect his plate, but I needed to be more vocal with my desires. My pub instincts proved excellent and I have never been as grateful to order only a half. Timothy Taylor Landlord with the sharp smell of vinegar.

The Old Street Tavern

My Google Maps has the Green Dragon saved - and it was this I was looking for. God knows why or when I saved it but it is now a private house. Although a private house that has thirsty pub bloggers staring through the window. 

It's only a short walk to the Old Street Tavern - a small but multi-room, multi-floor proper boozer. Friendly staff and locals propping up the bar but I could not ignore the wood burner in a small room to the side.

Siren Memento in fine condition.

Worth a look?....

..... Definitely

The Church

My real quarry is the Blood Bay - a Good Beer Guide Tick - but this does not open until 3pm. With half an hour to spare, there was time to hang around for a half in The Church. A freehouse dating from the C14th, its mainly geared for pub dining. 

The major thing of note is the church bell housed in a recess by the bar. Commandeered from some redundant church, it is still used today to call last orders.

The Church

A decent half of Ludlow Gold, to show you the church bell

The Blood Bay

Shop Conversion

I'm still processing my thoughts on this place. Let's provide some details, so you can make up your minds;

Very limited opening hours - the 3pm Friday opening is a recent trial.

Its a micro in a shop but they have gone for a Victorian Pub experience. This means authentic, repurposed hand-pulls that have no branding on them. The drinks selection is geared to beer and cider drinkers, with very limited other options. They stock a pale, bitter, stout and a cider. Uley Brewery appears to be popular, from a chalkboard detailing what's on and what's coming.

There is a strictly enforced no-mobiles rule. Which goes as far as browsing. I am a solo, retired pub explorer who was chastised for looking to see how the 192 bus was doing on its journey to take me home. Do I need telling "to turn it off or take it upstairs"? As a result, you will need to see a more brazen, professional pub blogger's work for internal photos.

My pet hate is pubs with signs detailing obscure rules that make little sense to the outsider. 

But having said that, this was a pub where conversation flowed and strangers were included. I think the success of this depends on the landlords/landlady's ability to be a host and facilitate this conversation. The Blood Bay's landlady was very keen to chat in-between the real work of running a bar.

The online consensus is that people love it, citing the mobile, laptop, music ban as a positive. I can see where they are coming from but I doubt it would make my top 100 pubs.

I set off for the anticipated 4pm bus. It was 24 minutes late. 

If I had access to my phone, I could have stopped for a second pint.