07/07/2026 - The Royal Oak, Charmouth

Golden Cap Views

Charmouth becomes the base of our latest dog sit. 5 days in heatwave number 3 of 2026. We are unsure how many of the planned walks we will manage to execute but we start with the shortest.

Charmouth is a picturesque coastal village in west Dorset, located on the Jurassic Coast between Lyme Regis and Bridport, where the River Char meets the sea. Famous for its fossil-rich cliffs and dramatic scenery, the village has a fascinating history, including visits from royalty. Catherine of Aragon is said to have stayed here in 1501 before her marriage to Prince Arthur, while the most famous visitor was the future Charles II, who hid in Charmouth in 1651 after defeat at the Battle of Worcester while attempting to escape to France. An Adventure Lab Cache points us to the Abbot's House, which has provided accommodation for both of these royal guests. And considering one was Charles II, it's no wonder the Monarch's Way LDP runs through it.

Royal Patronage at the Abbot's House

We've walked Golden Cap several times but never from this direction. Alas, due to the heat and the dog we are in charge of being 70 (dog years) we decide to shorten the walk a mile from the summit. There are plenty of escape routes to make this possible. The walk follows the Monarchs Way over cliffs before walking back to town via Stonebarrow Hill.

The footbridge across the river Char, where it meets the sea

Looking back from the Monarch's Way, over Lyme Regis

Mrs M and Bluebell agreeing Golden Cap is just too far.

Back into town, for a choice of refreshments. Charmouth hosts two pubs, the Royal Oak and George, one cafe and one chipper.

We were told the Royal Oak is the posher of the two. This is probably due to the prices, as it is a Palmers tied house. Less than two weeks since I paid the most for cask at another one of their outlets, the Ferry Inn, Salcombe.

Not quite needing a mortgage for a round today

Legendary pub crawler Alan Winfield declared this the best pub in Charmouth, and I intended to discover whether his judgement still held true before the end of the week. Admittedly, his review was from 2000, when Charmouth could probably boast another six other pubs. I only have the George to visit.

The Palmers 200 was certainly in good enough shape to earn an early vote of confidence. A happy blend of locals and visitors created the right atmosphere, with tourists doing what tourists do best: loudly debating the cost of car parking (a conversation I was so desperate to join with). Add in the friendly staff, and the signs were already pointing towards Alan having got this one right.

Walk Details

Distance - 4.5 miles

Geocaches - 5

03/07/26 - The Old Royal Library, Malvern

Late, for the Summer Solstice 

This was meant to be walked on 21st June. It was also meant to be walked at sunset. I was meant to light a fire. My first excuse is that I have been busy on the coastal walking. My second excuse is that we have the 1am England Mexico game this weekend. I am not staying/getting up late twice in succession. My third excuse, I would be shot for lighting fires in the tinderbox heatwave we are experiencing.

Summer Solstice: The Longest Day

June brings the great pivot of the year: the Summer Solstice, when the sun seems to pause at its zenith before beginning its slow decline.

It's a festival of fire and light, of fullness and ripeness, of standing still in the very height of things.

Pilgrimage at midsummer has always been drawn to the great circles of Stonehenge, Avebury and Callanish, where sunrise aligns with ancient stones in a drama that has played for millennia. And, of course, in a more contemporary way, Glastonbury Festival, always occurring around Midsummer's Day.

But it can be as simple as walking to the highest hill near you, lighting a small fire, and watching the sun dip late before rising early once again.

For my highest hill, I have picked the County Top of Worcestershire - the Beacon. 

A short but beautiful walk that I know well. Up the 99 steps to St Annes Well, yomp along the spine of the Malverns and then work my way back to town along the western side of the hills. Four locations of an Adventure Lab Cache telling the history of the working donkeys of Malvern, adding to the entertainment.

St Annes Well

Traditional Caching, with views

The Toposcope

Trig Point Bagging

To finish a perfect day, Black Country Ales have opened a new pub, the Old Royal Library. Directly opposite the Unicorn, which has subsequently closed down. The two things may be related, but the Unicorn has survived years opposite a much cheaper (and grander) Wetherspoons. They were used to competition.

New Pub in Town - The Old Royal Library

Everything one would expect from a BCA - the usual decor, cobs, bewildering range of unknown breweries and real cider/perry.

Walk Details

Distance - 5 miles

Walk Inspiration - Julie Royle's Worcestershire Walks Book 2

Geocaches - 6

Previous Celtic Pilgrimages - Imbloc, Spring Equinox, Belatne

01/07/26 - Kingswear, for the Seven Stars at Dartmouth

Beat The Clock

A new walk for us today. Requiring a ferry and on the other side of the Dart Estuary, it may not quite be within the South Hams that we have come to love so much.

We've a lot to pack in today. A 6 mile walk, two ferry crossings and a substantial lunch. It's pack-up day today and England KO at 5pm. We intend to be on the road back to the Midlands bang on 7pm, hopefully to contemplate quite how we will watch the next round at 1am on a Monday morning.

That's a problem for another day. First, we have to work out how to fit all this activity in when the longest of long stay car parks in Dartmouth is 4 hours. I mean, we would use the park and ride but it has 1-star reviews, my favourite complaining that there are no buses to take you park. So that's just an out-of-town "park" then, is it?

The walking is superb. Once across the estuary, we march inland first - heading up to Higher Brownstone before dropping down to the coast path at Coleton Fishacre and Pudcombe Cove. The coastline home, after dolphin and seal watching on the Mew Stone. Such a rollercoaster route - we are either walking up or down, which of course eats into our available time.

The Dart Estuary

A holloway leads to Higher Brownstone

Coast Path to the Mew Stone

Having a breather after one of the "ups"

The Mew Stone - home to dolphins and seals

Ziggy demands a swim at Mill Cove

On completion, we have an hour to spend before eviction. Fish and Chips (£36 for two, but Rockfish was in the Telegraph's best Chippers 2026) and a bench. Ziggy charged with protecting us from an ever growing number of circling seagulls.

This leaves time for a very quick pint at the new 2026 Good Beer Guide Tick. The Seven Stars advertises itself as Dartmouth's oldest pub. Probably reason enough for a visit. Perhaps not quite reaching the cuteness of last year's entry, The Cherub, but the beer was excellent. A cool Jail Ale rounding off a fine week of exploration.

The Seven Stars - Dartmouth's Oldest

Walk Details

Distance - 6.5 miles

Geocaches - 3

Walk Inspiration - 40 Walks In Devon

30/06/26 - Burgh Island from Ayrmer Cove

£2 for a plastic cup

Here I go again, on a stunning walk in the South Hams. This is an easy one, to a special place. 

Catch it right, and you can walk on a sand bar - with waves lapping at your feet to the east and to the west and visit the oldest pub in Devon, The Pilchard.

You've just got to navigate a bit of a stupid system. Beer, of below quality, is served in plastic glasses for which you pay a £2 deposit. I've got a problem with plastic glasses at the best of times, but having a system that doubles the queuing time in an oversubscribed pub is beyond ridiculous. Two sets of punters, early off season on a tuesday and it took 10 minutes for the one member of staff to stop making coffees to give provide the deposit refund. Mrs M convinced this is a ruse, with most people giving up and keeping the cup as a souvenir.

Blog ranting over - this is a simple walk from a National Trust car park. A holloway leads down to Ayrmer cove and then the coast path runs past Challaborough Caravan City to the island.

Ziggy loving the shady holloway

Ayrmer Cove

Tide looking good for a walk to Burgh Island

Despite the earlier slagging of the Pilchard, there are things in its favour. A 10am opener and a beer garden with unbeatable views. Time it when you can get inside and it's all you'd expect from a ancient, smugglers inn.

A sea tractor, should the tide be in

Ahoy there shipmates

The £2 Plastic Cup, with ropey Dartmoor Legend

A rollercoaster of ups and downs through the tiny village of Ringmore for the return.

Walk Details

Distance - 4.5 miles

Geocaches - 3

Walk Inspiration - 40 Walk in Devon