21/04/26 - West Midlands Way - Stage 12 - Kingsbury to Meriden

I Finished Something!

The West Midlands Way - a fifty year old book, charting a route around the West Midlands - comes to an end.

Due to strange logistics, I have been forced to amend the second half of the route - for the life of me, I cannot understand why Ron and Eric, the route planners, missed out Lichfield and Tamworth. Fine towns but more importantly, public transport hubs.

It was Tamworth that I found myself finishing Stage 11 at. No matter how I planned it, I couldn't find decent paths to get to Kingsbury but there is a handy bus.

I've walked this part of the world extensively on the Heart of England Way and the Centenary Way. I have previously pronounced Warwickshire the country's most boring walking county. 

Two out of three ain't bad

Nothing today has prompted me to change my mind. Kingsbury Water Park offers occasional glimpses of bodies of water through the woodland. Shustoke Reservoir is hardly observed from the footpaths that circumvent it. There are endless agricultural fields - devoid of livestock and crops (at this time of year). One pub - The Swan at Whitacre Heath - so "chainy" that it wasn't worth stopping at.

The only chance to see Shustoke Reservoir

Distant views of Birmingham from a field in Warwickshire

The only item of interest on the map is Maxstoke Priory and this is a disappointment. The church is locked up and the remains of the priory - a couple of walls in a poor state of repair - are hidden from view on private land.

Maxstoke Church

Ideally, I would have liked to end things here. There are two miles of road walking to get back to Meriden. A bus would be handy but it only runs on a Wednesday - and then at 10am! Google Maps was checked for likely traffic and/or grass verges. It was safe enough to walk but I needed the Deserter Podcast to keep my spirits up.

Into Meriden - and despite the green, a memorial to the centre of England and a monument to British Cycling, there is no pub at hand. The Bull's Head another quarter of a mile on from the bus stop.

The Actual Centre of England is at Fenny Drayton

An underwhelming end to an interesting experience which started so well.

Walk Details

Distance - 12 Miles

Geocaches - 4

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6 (Part 1), Stage 6 (Part 2), Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10, Stage 11

20/04/26 - The Bridge Hotel, Stanford Bridge

Hospitality Horrors

Our plan was to use the Bridge Hotel Car Park - complete a 9 mile walk - and reward ourselves with a pint.

Even with today's prices, I am unsure whether this would have met the terms and conditions.

How to drive away customers

The route is from the Ramblers. Paths were better than anticipated in a remote corner of Worcestershire, but I have had to notify the council. A padlocked wonky gate, which even has the Right of Way Marker on the post. All added to to the outdoor gymnasium of clambering stiles and fallen trees.

As pleasurable as it was, little to report. We didn't quite make it to the door of the impressive Georgian Gothic Church at Stanford. The Sapeys (Upper, Lower, Common) have no infrastructure. We saw sheep, cattle, deer, hares, an owl but only one human. The farmer at Noverton fixing his gate.

Clifton-on-Teme Church

Worcestershire / Herefordshire views

Nearly 4 hours later and I would love to bring you a report on the pub. Mrs M quite strict in her instructions of "sod them".

Don't upset Mrs M

Walk Details

Distance - 9 Miles

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration

 

17/04/26 - Birmingham Culture

Needless and Peaky

The latest West Midlands History Podcast features the Peaky Blinders. It was only a matter of time. Carl Chinn enthusiastically reminding the listeners that they are not to be glamourised and were simply street thugs. And then going on to glamourise them for the next 30 minutes.

Finding Peaky Blinders locations in Birmingham is a little like shooting fish in a barrel. In fact, an Arthur and/or Tommy mural in a pub has now replaced Alsatians on a flat roof pub as the international measure of roughness. 

Coincidentally, I had just finished a book set in Birmingham and during the same time period, Needless Alley. 

Needless Alley is a crime novel set in 1933 Birmingham. William Garrett, a struggling private detective, makes his living staging divorce “honey traps” with his friend Ronnie Edgerton, an out-of-work actor. Their work brings William into contact with Clara Morton, the unhappy wife of a wealthy fascist, and he falls in love with her. When murder and corruption follow, William is drawn into Birmingham’s criminal underworld and canal-side backstreets.

The main characters are William Garrett, the troubled detective; Ronnie Edgerton, his witty but reckless partner; and Queenie Maggs, Ronnie’s tough, resourceful sister who lives on a narrowboat and knows the canal world better than anyone.

Rather fortuitously, there are walking routes pre-made for both Peaky Blinders and Needless Alley. I am able to just get on with walking, spotting key locations.

Book Title and Location of William's Private Detective Agency 

The Grand Hotel - Trysts between Clara and William

Art Gallery and Museum - William and Clara's first date

Gas Street Basin - Queenie lives on a Barge

Jon Jones Mural in Hill Street for the launch of the Peaky Blinders Film

Electric Cinema (looking increasingly sad) - Where William watched Marlene Dietrich movies 

A refreshment interlude. William often meets Ronnie in the White Swan, Digbeth. Last month, I visited this rough and ready pub by error, confusing it for the recently renovated and reopened Anchor.

It's not too surprising a mistake to make. Both pubs were built by the same firm - James and Lister Lea - share the same terracotta brick style and are located on the same street. In the interests of variety, I make the Anchor my port of call. 

An added incentive - the best track on Katherine Priddy's new album, Hurricane, was filmed there.

It's good to have the Anchor back. A Tardis-like multi-roomer, which cries out to be explored. And the chance of a first Bass of the year. Permanently on, Quinno.

Very similar to the White Swan

The light didn't work for the reverse photo

That dog was in the White Swan last month

The Peaky Blinder walk would have had me drinking in the Rainbow. The first mention of the Peaky Blinders in print. Carl Chinn explains;

“An ‘inoffensive chap’ called George Eastwood had been drinking in the Rainbow pub on the corner of High Street, Deritend and Adderley Street. The teetotaller was picked on by three hard men on the evening of March 23, 1890 – and all because he had a non-alcoholic drink. There is a bit of a row, but it dies down. Later, at about 11pm, George decides to go home. The hard men had already gone, so he must have thought it was safe – but as he was walking underneath the Adderley Street viaduct, he hears them shouting at him and then they brutally assault him under one of these two viaducts. One on the attackers was a chap called Thomas Mucklow, another was called Groom. The identity of the third man is still unknown. Groom punched George before they all started kicking with their boots along the street. And then Groom took off his heavy leather belt – these had thick brass buckles and they would wrap it around their wrist and leave about eight inches free, buckle it together and they would slash! Poor old George took so many beatings from the belt and the kicking and the punch that he was in hospital for three weeks. On the Monday night, the Birmingham Mail reported that this brutal assault was carried out by the gang of Peaky Blinders. It was the first time – March 1890 – that the term ‘Peaky Blinders’ had appeared in print.”

This would have been interesting for the walk - but unfortunately, the pub keeps night-time opening hours only.

The Rainbow - looking better during yesteryear

The back streets of Digbeth providing Peaky Blinder menace and the occasional artwork reminders. Montague Street, with the best mural of the day.

King of the Blinders - part of a much bigger art work

Not Peaky at all

Walk Details

Distance - 4.75 Miles

Geocaches - 4

Walk Inspiration - History WM Podcast and The Book Trail

15/04/26 - Good Beer Guide Ticking in Gloucester

Variety Abounds

The Drunken Duck, a tiny micropub down a little alley, has a fine collection of Bibles on the window-shelf.

Running back to the last Millennium

The natural thing is to check your home town - in my case - Stourport-on-Severn - to determine who made it in what year. The town has around 15 pubs - and in no time at all, I can see they have all made it during one year or another. Even the ones where I remember the beer quality, and in some cases, the pub itself to be dreadful.

This means the job of Good Beer Guide Ticking is a true Sisyphean undertaking. I expect much work to be done in the County Town since my last visit in Covid. 

I start at the early opener in the fancily gentrified dockyard area. Dr Foster's lacking in naming stakes originality and I must admit to not holding out much hope in a restaurant.

Unapologetically Gastro

Two major surprises - a Tap Takeover from one of may favourite Cotswold Breweries, Goff's. And everything £3 a pint. I mentioned my surprise to the barman, who simply replied "It's Wednesday, innit". Well long live Wednesdays.

Goffs Lancer - just add customers....

A short distance away is the Hop Kettle. Whereas the good doctor opens at 11am, the tardy kettle leave it to 3pm. 

Moving on to the Drunken Duck - which I remember as Angie's and a wonderful landlord who insisted on calling you by your name as he adhered to Covid delivery rituals. Busy with deliveries, beer salesmen and debt collectors, who left fully paid up. Their own house bitter is Butcombe Original.

Drunken Duck - Angies No More

The Fountain was Covid locked up before and I couldn't even get down the alley to take a photograph. It's discussed on the rather excellent Tourist Information audio tour. The oldest brewery and pub in the City, running since the C14th.

The Fountain

7 cask on - most from South West Breweries. My Tribute a panic buy, after being challenged as to what I was doing scanning the Cask Marque QR code. Full of pensioners eating and if I picked poorly on my pint, I made a worse choice on the seating. You try balancing on a church pew with the smell of fish and chips in your nostrils. The Campaign for Comfy Pub Chairs starts again here.

I was looking forward to The Pelican, a Wye Valley House that simply gave up during Covid and didn't open at all. The door was firmly closed and with no sign of life inside. I was forced to re-check Google for opening hours that said it should be open. A push of the door and indeed it was.

Little sign of life in the Pelican

A group of old boys, with the detritus of a serious session on display on their table, provided the eavesdropping entertainment. The Butty Bach was in fantastic condition. It's my regular pint in my GBG local, but it tops it here.

The Audio Guide had brought my attention to the New Inn, describing it as the finest galleried pub in the country. Built in 1440 by monks for pilgrims, I really had to investigate. Not least because Mr Rolls (of Rolls Royce fame) managed to run over himself here in 1896.

Gives the George in Borough High Street serious competition

What it provided in architectural atmosphere, it negated by having a poor beer selection and no-one on point to serve. I was happy with my mooch around, ready to head back to the station in a thunderstorm.