01/07/26 - Kingswear, for the Seven Stars at Dartmouth

Beat The Clock

A new walk for us today. Requiring a ferry and on the other side of the Dart Estuary, it may not quite be within the South Hams that we have come to love so much.

We've a lot to pack in today. A 6 mile walk, two ferry crossings and a substantial lunch. It's pack-up day today and England KO at 5pm. We intend to be on the road back to the Midlands bang on 7pm, hopefully to contemplate quite how we will watch the next round at 1am on a Monday morning.

That's a problem for another day. First, we have to work out how to fit all this activity in when the longest of long stay car parks in Dartmouth is 4 hours. I mean, we would use the park and ride but it has 1-star reviews, my favourite complaining that there are no buses to take you park. So that's just an out-of-town "park" then, is it?

The walking is superb. Once across the estuary, we march inland first - heading up to Higher Brownstone before dropping down to the coast path at Coleton Fishacre and Pudcombe Cove. The coastline home, after dolphin and seal watching on the Mew Stone. Such a rollercoaster route - we are either walking up or down, which of course eats into our available time.

The Dart Estuary

A holloway leads to Higher Brownstone

Coast Path to the Mew Stone

Having a breather after one of the "ups"

The Mew Stone - home to dolphins and seals

Ziggy demands a swim at Mill Cove

On completion, we have an hour to spend before eviction. Fish and Chips (£36 for two, but Rockfish was in the Telegraph's best Chippers 2026) and a bench. Ziggy charged with protecting us from an ever growing number of circling seagulls.

This leaves time for a very quick pint at the new 2026 Good Beer Guide Tick. The Seven Stars advertises itself as Dartmouth's oldest pub. Probably reason enough for a visit. Perhaps not quite reaching the cuteness of last year's entry, The Cherub, but the beer was excellent. A cool Jail Ale rounding off a fine week of exploration.

The Seven Stars - Dartmouth's Oldest

Walk Details

Distance - 6.5 miles

Geocaches - 3

Walk Inspiration - 40 Walks In Devon

30/06/26 - Burgh Island from Ayrmer Cove

£2 for a plastic cup

Here I go again, on a stunning walk in the South Hams. This is an easy one, to a special place. 

Catch it right, and you can walk on a sand bar - with waves lapping at your feet to the east and to the west and visit the oldest pub in Devon, The Pilchard.

You've just got to navigate a bit of a stupid system. Beer, of below quality, is served in plastic glasses for which you pay a £2 deposit. I've got a problem with plastic glasses at the best of times, but having a system that doubles the queuing time in an oversubscribed pub is beyond ridiculous. Two sets of punters, early off season on a tuesday and it took 10 minutes for the one member of staff to stop making coffees to give provide the deposit refund. Mrs M convinced this is a ruse, with most people giving up and keeping the cup as a souvenir.

Blog ranting over - this is a simple walk from a National Trust car park. A holloway leads down to Ayrmer cove and then the coast path runs past Challaborough Caravan City to the island.

Ziggy loving the shady holloway

Ayrmer Cove

Tide looking good for a walk to Burgh Island

Despite the earlier slagging of the Pilchard, there are things in its favour. A 10am opener and a beer garden with unbeatable views. Time it when you can get inside and it's all you'd expect from a ancient, smugglers inn.

A sea tractor, should the tide be in

Ahoy there shipmates

The £2 Plastic Cup, with ropey Dartmoor Legend

A rollercoaster of ups and downs through the tiny village of Ringmore for the return.

Walk Details

Distance - 4.5 miles

Geocaches - 3

Walk Inspiration - 40 Walk in Devon 

29/06/26 - The Ferry Inn, Salcombe

Save Up for Portlemouth Down

This is another of our "must walks" in The South Hams.

Salcombe Town lies on one side of the Kingsbridge Estuary. It's all winding streets, artisan gin and equally artisan ice cream outlets, with plenty of other shops competing for your holiday dollar.

A £3 ferry ride is all it takes to reach the opposite shore, where golden sandy beaches and some of South Devon's finest coastal walking await. We studied the ferry over coffee. The largest combined fare for the 3 minute journey. £36. No wonder it was the same chap piloting it as last year. Pound per hour, he is the richest man in Devon. A title the landlord of the Ferry Inn, which we will come to later, is desperate to steal.

This short but spectacular route passes the idyllic Mill Bay and Sunny Cove before opening out onto dramatic clifftop paths leading to Gara Rock and Portlemouth Down. From there, the walk loops back inland along a wonderfully atmospheric sunken holloway, providing a fitting finale to a memorable circuit.

A fine way to start/end a walk

The coves on the east side of Kingsbridge Estuary

At the sea, heading towards Gara Rock on Portlemouth Downs

A shady holloway for the return

Devon CAMRA must have been reading my blog. There is always one pub in Salcombe in the Good Beer Guide and after last year's walk, I pronounced the pint at the Kings Arms, their recommendation, the worst of the entire week. They have been stripped of their entry and in 2026, this belongs to the Ferry Inn.

Whatever happens, it will be the winner of most spectacular entrance to a Good Beer Guide pub.

Mrs M (and Ziggy) looking forward to the Ferry Inn

Unobstructed view from ferry

Side On

And possibly winner of best view from a beer garden.

Palmers 200, looking over to where we walked

Of course, there is a catch. This 1749 boozer is a Palmers house. A phrase that normally induces an ache in the wallet. Add that to a tourist pub, with a view, in a place where the kids are called Ophelia and Tarquin and expect the worst.

Two pints - £15.30. 

No Crisps.

Walk Details

Distance - 7.5 miles

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration - Komoot

28/06/26 - The Albert Inn, Totnes

The South Hams Way

Totnes throws off quirky Glastonbury vibes. Interesting people, independent shops and three Good Beer Guide Pubs. Just the one open for business at midday on a Sunday - but they do Sunday Lunch. A suitable enough temptation to drag Mrs M from her desired coastal walks.

It was during our last visit that I discovered the South Hams Way. A newly launched Long Distance Path tracing the perimeter of the area for 100 miles. A section from Totnes along the River Dart to Ashprington provided the opportunity to complete an inland section.

Another on the list?

The walking is easy... The footpath is surprisingly distant from the river - possibly due to its tidal status and the climb into Ashprington very steep. But it's a pretty little village, complete with a functioning pub - The Durant Arms.

As far as you can sail up the Dart to Totnes

The Dart broadening out near Ashprington

Devon Views

After lane walking from Ashprington, views over Totnes

Into town - where the only outlet selling mystical stuff needs to be in liquid format. 

The Bay Horse Inn - a 1pm opener. On a weekend.  Strange hours.

Copperhead Ales Taproom - must be religious. They don't open on a Sunday at all.

This leaves the Albert Inn. A Taproom for the Bridgetown Brewery. 

Einstein a-go-go

There has been a weekend long beer festival running. I know this, as my first two choices marked on the chalk board have sold out. This left a mild or a Pale Ale (Accolade) from the brewery to try.

A good atmosphere in the pub, as veterans from the previous two days festivities finished their walk of shame for more of what didn't kill them to make them stronger. The barman announced his surprise to see each and every one of them.

Walk Details

Distance - 6.25 miles

Geocaches - 4

Walk Inspiration - Komoot