08/06/26 - On the Trail of.... George Eliot

No Access

Considering I have never read any of her books, it seems strange that this is the second George Eliot themed walk I have completed. With Middlemarch coming in as the second-best book of all time - as voted by Guardian readers over the weekend - maybe this is something to be addressed.

Previously, I've traipsed around South London looking out for where she lived. Today, it's Nuneaton, her birthplace. Apart from being the most populated town in Warwickshire, they don't appear to have much else to shout about. The hospital and a pub named after her. The pub possibly responsible for putting people in the hospital. Strangely open - but with pumping music, so it cannot be a 'spoons - at 10am on a Tuesday.

Random St George's flags replacing a flat roof (with dog on) as a warning sign

The route is from a 1951 guide book. The maps, and associated descriptions, have always presented a challenge to decipher. The theme is where George (Mary Ann Evans) was raised and some of the real locations that became fictional places in her works.

The lass herself

She was born at South Farm on the Arbury Estate - which in the 1950s was open to the public. The map cuts through this estate and even discusses an obelisk next to the farm in celebration. Public access is no longer available, so I have to adapt the route significantly. I do manage to track down the aforementioned obelisk, moved to the one nice part of town, the riverside park.

Previously next to South Farm

Griff House was her childhood home. I would have visited this too, but the public footpaths I need take me away from what is now a Beefeater/Premier Inn. Progress, hey.

Closest I get to Arbury Park - inspiration for Cheverel Manor in "Scenes from a Clerical Life"

My (replanned) route takes me around the northern side of the estate. "Private" signs are in abundance in case I get any ideas. Dull road walking along Astley Road to a proper, ruined castle with connections to Henry VIII.

A first glimpse across a pool

Up close - maybe too close, as you will find out.

Astley Castle, near Nuneaton in Warwickshire, was originally a 13th-century fortified manor house and later the seat of the Grey family. It is closely linked to Lady Jane Grey, the “Nine Days’ Queen”, who was the great-niece of Henry VIII through his sister Mary Tudor. Following Jane Grey’s failed claim to the throne in 1553 and her subsequent execution, the Grey family’s influence declined and the estate eventually passed out of their hands. The castle also has a literary link to George Eliot: it is generally identified as the inspiration for Knebley Abbey in George Eliot’s novella Mr Gilfil's Love Story, part of Scenes of Clerical Life.

There are plentiful information boards, direction arrows and even a sign saying "please respect the residents' privacy". Which leads me to think I can investigate the ruins in a little bit more detail. I get as far as identifying that a modern conversion is housed inside the ruins and it doesn't take long before I am hollered at as to what I am doing. The cleaners are in. This is now a holiday let owned by the Landmark Trust.

And can't cleaners shout when they spy middle-aged ramblers approaching their patch.

I apologise and try to explain the misleading signage that suggests it's open for public access. I am still not entirely sure it isn't.

I beat a hasty retreat to the church next door, having done my research into alabaster effigies and medieval misericord paintings of the apostles.

It's "doors locked".

Back to the walking. The guidebook wants me to head south to Corley and ultimately Allesley. There is little in the way of interest and a lot of it is lane walking. This might have been pleasant in the fifties but a look on Google Maps shows no verge and a lot of traffic.

I can escape North-West, through a damp wheat field with a narrow path (hello wet trousers and socks) and a golf course.

A revisit to a quite bonkers nautically themed pub - the Lord Nelson - which is almost as far as you can get from the sea in England.

Gah! I had just dried out

Bass in the Lord Nelson - Good Beer Guide Regular

"Get it at sea, take a ship / I'd christen her 'Victory', she'd make it."

Walk Details

Distance - 8.25 miles

Geocaches - 8

Walk Inspiration - Fifty Weekend Walks Round Birmingham - Walk 5

   

06/06/26 - The Three Good Beer Guide Ticks in Cannock

A Spoons and Two Micros

An oddly dull walk from Walsall brought me to Cannock, a previously unexplored town. If you ask AI what there is to see and do in Cannock, it tells you to look for a dogs grave, Freda, on Cannock Chase.

Which is probably not bad advice.

The Wetherspoons, Linford Arms, is where all the life is. A twin gabled town house, where nearly every single table was occupied. Thank God for their ruthlessly efficient app. An all day breakfast and a pint of Moorhouse Pendle Witches brew, whilst I guarded the last available single seater table.

Stand further back to get both gable ends in

The New Hall Arms is just a short walk away, opposite a shabby looking shopping centre. It's a bigger than usual micro, concentrating on cask rather than more esoteric international offerings. Bass was on, but in a move that showed a lack of care and attention, it was stuffed into a craft Vocation pint pot. Covered in art.  Give my boring brown beer in a boring nonic.

New Hall Arms

On the way back to the station is the final part of the trilogy, The Arcade. A quirky little micro pub, which appears to share its space with a music shop. People enter carrying guitars. An interesting collection of keg and cask on, I went for a previously untried Feld Helles lager from Ampersand Brewery.

Cannock, greened.

 

06/06/26 - Walsall to Cannock on the McClean Way

Arrow Straight to a Broken Boulder

Walk Midlands is such an excellent resource. Subscribe to their mail list and as regular as clockwork on the 1st of the month your inbox will be filled with wonderful ramblers inspiration. I had my eye on today's walk as it ended in the never explored before Cannock. As usual, I ask AI what there is to do there. Let's just say ChatGPT is not going to get employed by the Cannock Tourist Board.

If you're expecting a picturesque market town full of historic buildings, Cannock itself can feel a bit underwhelming.

As surprising as that sounds, it's quite a fair assessment. Who says we need to worry about the veracity of  AI?

Still, its probably better than Walsall. In the rain. I look to make my escape as soon as possible and pick up the McClean Way. A former railway line, its arrow straight, offers no views and makes canals seem exciting.

It's like this for miles

Until you escape at Pelsall

Cadman's Lane offers little to lift the boredom - a green lane dividing cow pastures. There's an oddly placed blue plaque in a thicket and even this is a memorial to something that no longer exists. John Wesley, founder of the Methodists, preached from a large sandstone boulder near Fishey. The boulder no longer exists. Kind of fitting for the walk, somehow.

Unexpected Plague

Impossible to say where Great Wyrley ends and Cannock begins but the last couple of miles are along the A34. At least there are three pubs for needed refreshment. I picked well at the first - The Star Inn. A community pub trying to be all things to all people. Food, entertainment and sometimes both. The upcoming England World Cup games can be enjoyed with a half time chip butty.

Well kept beer - HPA, Butty Bach or Timothy Taylor

Over two horrible roundabouts - and then I am in Cannock. A town where the planners really don't want the pedestrian to make it into.  

Three Good Beer Guide Ticks await.

Walk Details

Distance - 10 miles

Geocaches - 1

Walk Inspiration

 

05/06/26 - Masons Arms, Wichenford

Church Treasures and a Dovecote

The Pickerwheel is spun and returns Page 91 of the Hidden Places of Worcestershire book. Wichenford, for a dovecote and a pub.

My extensive library of walking books fails to find a single route in this small village. I am forced into making my own. It's a success - maybe the start of a new career. 6 miles through beautiful agricultural landscapes in the shadows of Woodbury and the Malvern Hills. Plenty of stiles to clamber over. 

Mainly on paths like this

With Views like this

Wichenford Dovecote - when I woke up this morning, I was unsure I could describe to you what a Dovecote is. Now, I know. It's got a brown tourist sign, pointing into the moated Wichenford Manor House. It's gated, so I nervously let myself in. The first building looks suitably ancient but on inspection, it's just stables. Around the corner, I find my quarry. 

C17th Birdhouse

Home for 557 Birds. Who, presumably, have all been evicted

 

Wichenford Church - This is what I love about exploring. The church is not only "Doors Open" but provides the WiFi password on the front door. Live blogging from the field was a possibility. The church is pretty enough and with the low lying land, is visible for much of the walk. Inside it housing two beautiful C17th shrines to the Washbourne family. 

St Laurence

Bunk Bed Shrines

And the loyal dog

The Masons Arms - is a food led country pub, which surprisingly has competition with the most bizarrely located Thai restaurant you will find. Housed in the barn at nearby Buryendtown Farm. One cask on, Wye Valley HPA, and I should have trusted my instincts, as it was badly on the turn. The landlady was that pleasant and attentive, I couldn't bring myself to complain. Besides, there was nothing to swap it with.

Repeat after me Mappiman - if in doubt, sample it; optimism pairs badly with blind ordering.

The menu looked fantastic

Walk Details

Distance - 6 Miles

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration - Page 91 of Hidden Places in Worcestershire