28/06/26 - The Albert Inn, Totnes

The South Hams Way

Totnes throws off quirky Glastonbury vibes. Interesting people, independent shops and three Good Beer Guide Pubs. Just the one open for business at midday on a Sunday - but they do Sunday Lunch. A suitable enough temptation to drag Mrs M from her desired coastal walks.

It was during our last visit that I discovered the South Hams Way. A newly launched Long Distance Path tracing the perimeter of the area for 100 miles. A section from Totnes along the River Dart to Ashprington provided the opportunity to complete an inland section.

Another on the list?

The walking is easy... The footpath is surprisingly distant from the river - possibly due to its tidal status and the climb into Ashprington very steep. But it's a pretty little village, complete with a functioning pub - The Durant Arms.

As far as you can sail up the Dart to Totnes

The Dart broadening out near Ashprington

Devon Views

After lane walking from Ashprington, views over Totnes

Into town - where the only outlet selling mystical stuff needs to be in liquid format. 

The Bay Horse Inn - a 1pm opener. On a weekend.  Strange hours.

Copperhead Ales Taproom - must be religious. They don't open on a Sunday at all.

This leaves the Albert Inn. A Taproom for the Bridgetown Brewery. 

Einstein a-go-go

There has been a weekend long beer festival running. I know this, as my first two choices marked on the chalk board have sold out. This left a mild or a Pale Ale (Accolade) from the brewery to try.

A good atmosphere in the pub, as veterans from the previous two days festivities finished their walk of shame for more of what didn't kill them to make them stronger. The barman announced his surprise to see each and every one of them.

Walk Details

Distance - 6.25 miles

Geocaches - 4

Walk Inspiration - Komoot

27/06/26 - Bolt Head

The gentlemen morning drinker is better served at 'Spoons

Another perfect walk from Komoot. Mrs M goes as far as to say it is her "walk of the year". Interesting, as a variation of the route won a similar accolade back in the dark covid days of 2020.

Today, we battle the "lanes" of the South Hams to start at East Soar National Trust Car Park. Not the official South West Coast Path (we follow this on the way back, underneath our current position) but fine views in all directions.

Looking up the estuary to Salcombe

Beautiful woodland walking through Overbecks brings us to a decision point. We know the beach at South Sands is not "dog-friendly". We also know that it is our only potential refreshment stop - having ignored the honesty tea and coffee facilities at Soar Farm. We decide a view of the Salcombe Castle ruins is worth the effort. And what an inspired decision that was.

At the first A-board with the word "bar", we head down a steep slope to what turns out to be the South Sands Hotel. A stunning terrace, overlooking the beach. Other patrons? Drinking champagne out of the required chalice. Fear not, their kids have Aston Villa tops on, so it ain't that posh.

Mrs M sends me off to order a flat white. I ask if she is sure, as I am going for a cool, refreshing beer. As is the wont of all women, she says that she will just have some of mine. It may be 9:45 am, but we have been up hours and time works differently when you are on holiday. Alas, their licence only covers them for residents until 10:30 am. Villa parents look smug with their pinkies out, as I contemplate googling the nearest 'spoons.

All is not lost. The coffees were delicious and no more than Starbucks, as Rockerfella Mrs M points out to me. 

And what a view - the castle, a fort and a sea tractor that we both agree will never make it across the estuary.

Transpires the tractor is just a jetty and passengers disembark to a proper boat

Refreshed, we tear ourselves away for what is possibly the best walking of all of the SWCP.  The climb to Bolt's Head is proper Lord of the Rings territory. The sea views can be taken for granted but the gnarly rock formations are something a little different.

Mrs M and Ziggy

A seaward facing retaining wall for safety

Another route added to the "South Hams Must Be Walked" list. If we come next year, no planning will be required.

Walk Details

Distance - 5 miles

Geocaches - 2

Walk Inspiration

26/06/26 - Pig's Nose, East Prawle

The Annual Return to a Top 5 Pub

We rarely notice the moment a one-off outing becomes an annual pilgrimage. This is our third time completing a variation of this walk. Having honed our technique, this is the second time we have had an identical two-centre lunch.

Yet the roads to East Prawle are no easier. I have now taken to turning the radio down so I can better see the high hedges, the grass growing down the centre of the road and the local lunatics who take national speed limit as an invitation to career around blind bends. I am not sure how many years I have left in me for this tradition.

After two days of country-wide record breaking June heat, a storm broke in the South Hams last night. Today's walk starts in 19 degree temperature with a sea fret offering air condition like conditions. Just perfect.

Officially the coolest two people in the land

This walk was found on Komoot - the slight variation - a permissive path that took us down to the cove that the pub was named after. From then, the coast past Gammon Head, to the Coastguard's Station at Prawle Point and the undercliff around Langerstone Point to Horseley Cove. All varieties of walking - from hands-on rock scrambling to pleasant meadow fields encountered.

The permissive path to Pig's Nose

Water break for Ziggy at Gammon Head

To Prawle Point Coastguard Station

 A swim (for Ziggy) at Horseley Cove before the stiff climb back for the annual refreshments.

First, crab sandwiches at The Piglet Cafe (monopolies commission have been informed). They are expensive, but I challenge you to find a finer crab sandwich in the country. Possible, if you find one that doesn't come with a side of salted Doritos. B-Tec crisps, according to Mrs M.

This is enjoyed whilst we await the scrape of the midday bolt at the pub. A regular in "best of" guides in Devon from everything from the food, to the beer (you must have the gravity fed Eddystone), to the live music. And not forgetting the superb walking.

2026 Photo

An investigation to find something new to tell you. Previously, I commented that it might be the only pub loos with shower facilities. I noticed we can add laundrette services to that list. And the trap, at least in the men's, is called the "poop deck".

Their website details their musical heritage. There cannot be many remote pubs that can have such a roster of previous performers;

The pub’s music hall has hosted an extraordinary range of artists over the years, from Atomic Kitten, Stanton Warriors, Lee Scratch Perry, Damon Albarn, The Animals and The Boomtown Rats, The Blockheads to name a few.

Today, there were many reasons to be cheerful.

Walk Details

Distance - 5 Miles

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration

24/06/26 - Frogmore Creek

Escaping the Heatwave, Evading the Pub

A walk from "Best Pubs in South Devon" holds plenty of promise.

Yet compromises need to be made. We are on day 2 of the heatwave that has had the news outlets reaching for ever darker crayons. Mrs M wants us up and out early - 6am was mentioned - and on the shortest walk I have for the area. I'm up for the early start. England vs. Ghana last night provided no reason to stay up celebrating.

The Globe at Frogmore will have to wait. With opening hours of 3pm - 11pm midweek, it was always going to be a tall order to get the tick. 

Heating up at 7:18am

It's a beautiful ramble. Frogmore Creek is a drowned river valley in the Kingsbury Estuary. The village at the head was once a thriving port and the pub served the working community. Low tide when we drop down to access it. Occasional views along its length to Salcombe.

First glimpse

Salcombe in the far distance

Fields take us to West Charleton - where the Charleton Inn awaits those in cooler climes - before a delightful green lane in the sheep hills drops us back to the start.

In car - the temperature is 24 degrees. And we haven't even had breakfast.

Ziggy the hot dog looking forward to his sardine brunch

Views from the green lanes above Frogmore Creek

Walk Details

Distance - 5 miles

Geocaches - 1

Walk Inspiration - Best Pub Walks in South Devon