30/06/26 - Burgh Island from Ayrmer Cove

£2 for a plastic cup

Here I go again, on a stunning walk in the South Hams. This is an easy one, to a special place. 

Catch it right, and you can walk on a sand bar - with waves lapping at your feet to the east and to the west and visit the oldest pub in Devon, The Pilchard.

You've just got to navigate a bit of a stupid system. Beer, of below quality, is served in plastic glasses for which you pay a £2 deposit. I've got a problem with plastic glasses at the best of time, but having a system that doubles the queuing time in an oversubscribed pub is beyond ridiculous. Two sets of punteres, early off season on a tuesday and it took 10 minutes for the one member of staff to stop making coffees to give provide the deposit refund. Mrs M convinced this is a ruse, with most people giving up and keeping the cup as a souvenir.

Blog ranting over - this is a simple walk from a National Trust car park. A holloway leads down to Ayrmer cove and then the coast path runs past Challaborough Caravan City to the island.

Ziggy loving the shady holloway

Ayrmer Cove

Tide looking good for a walk to Burgh Island

Despite the earlier slagging of the Pilchard, there are things in its favour. A 10am opener and a beer garden with unbeatable views. Time it when you can get inside and it's all you'd expect from a ancient, smugglers inn.

A sea tractor, should the tide be in

Ahoy there shipmates

The £2 Plastic Cup, with ropey Dartmoor Legend

A rollercoaster of ups and downs through the tiny village of Ringmore for the return.

Walk Details

Distance - 4.5 miles

Geocaches - 3

Walk Inspiration - 40 Walk in Devon 

29/06/26 - The Ferry Inn, Salcombe

Save Up for Portlemouth Down

This is another of our "must walks" in The South Hams.

Salcombe Town lies on one side of the Kingsbridge Estuary. It's all winding streets, artisan gin and equally artisan ice cream outlets, with plenty of other shops competing for your holiday dollar.

A £3 ferry ride is all it takes to reach the opposite shore, where golden sandy beaches and some of South Devon's finest coastal walking await. We studied the ferry over coffee. The largest combined fare for the 3 minute journey. £36. No wonder it was the same chap piloting it as last year. Pound per hour, he is the richest man in Devon. A title the landlord of the Ferry Inn, which we will come to later, is desperate to steal.

This short but spectacular route passes the idyllic Mill Bay and Sunny Cove before opening out onto dramatic clifftop paths leading to Gara Rock and Portlemouth Down. From there, the walk loops back inland along a wonderfully atmospheric sunken holloway, providing a fitting finale to a memorable circuit.

A fine way to start/end a walk

The coves on the east side of Kingsbridge Estuary

At the sea, heading towards Gara Rock on Portlemouth Downs

A shady holloway for the return

Devon CAMRA must have been reading my blog. There is always one pub in Salcombe in the Good Beer Guide and after last year's walk, I pronounced the pint at the Kings Arms, their recommendation, the worst of the entire week. They have been stripped of their entry and in 2026, this belongs to the Ferry Inn.

Whatever happens, it will be the winner of most spectacular entrance to a Good Beer Guide pub.

Mrs M (and Ziggy) looking forward to the Ferry Inn

Unobstructed view from ferry

Side On

And possibly winner of best view from a beer garden.

Palmers 200, looking over to where we walked

Of course, there is a catch. This 1749 boozer is a Palmers house. A phrase that normally induces an ache in the wallet. Add that to a tourist pub, with a view, in a place where the kids are called Ophelia and Tarquin and expect the worst.

Two pints - £15.30. 

No Crisps.

Walk Details

Distance - 7.5 miles

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration - Komoot

28/06/26 - The Albert Inn, Totnes

The South Hams Way

Totnes throws off quirky Glastonbury vibes. Interesting people, independent shops and three Good Beer Guide Pubs. Just the one open for business at midday on a Sunday - but they do Sunday Lunch. A suitable enough temptation to drag Mrs M from her desired coastal walks.

It was during our last visit that I discovered the South Hams Way. A newly launched Long Distance Path tracing the perimeter of the area for 100 miles. A section from Totnes along the River Dart to Ashprington provided the opportunity to complete an inland section.

Another on the list?

The walking is easy... The footpath is surprisingly distant from the river - possibly due to its tidal status and the climb into Ashprington very steep. But it's a pretty little village, complete with a functioning pub - The Durant Arms.

As far as you can sail up the Dart to Totnes

The Dart broadening out near Ashprington

Devon Views

After lane walking from Ashprington, views over Totnes

Into town - where the only outlet selling mystical stuff needs to be in liquid format. 

The Bay Horse Inn - a 1pm opener. On a weekend.  Strange hours.

Copperhead Ales Taproom - must be religious. They don't open on a Sunday at all.

This leaves the Albert Inn. A Taproom for the Bridgetown Brewery. 

Einstein a-go-go

There has been a weekend long beer festival running. I know this, as my first two choices marked on the chalk board have sold out. This left a mild or a Pale Ale (Accolade) from the brewery to try.

A good atmosphere in the pub, as veterans from the previous two days festivities finished their walk of shame for more of what didn't kill them to make them stronger. The barman announced his surprise to see each and every one of them.

Walk Details

Distance - 6.25 miles

Geocaches - 4

Walk Inspiration - Komoot

27/06/26 - Bolt Head

The gentlemen morning drinker is better served at 'Spoons

Another perfect walk from Komoot. Mrs M goes as far as to say it is her "walk of the year". Interesting, as a variation of the route won a similar accolade back in the dark covid days of 2020.

Today, we battle the "lanes" of the South Hams to start at East Soar National Trust Car Park. Not the official South West Coast Path (we follow this on the way back, underneath our current position) but fine views in all directions.

Looking up the estuary to Salcombe

Beautiful woodland walking through Overbecks brings us to a decision point. We know the beach at South Sands is not "dog-friendly". We also know that it is our only potential refreshment stop - having ignored the honesty tea and coffee facilities at Soar Farm. We decide a view of the Salcombe Castle ruins is worth the effort. And what an inspired decision that was.

At the first A-board with the word "bar", we head down a steep slope to what turns out to be the South Sands Hotel. A stunning terrace, overlooking the beach. Other patrons? Drinking champagne out of the required chalice. Fear not, their kids have Aston Villa tops on, so it ain't that posh.

Mrs M sends me off to order a flat white. I ask if she is sure, as I am going for a cool, refreshing beer. As is the wont of all women, she says that she will just have some of mine. It may be 9:45 am, but we have been up hours and time works differently when you are on holiday. Alas, their licence only covers them for residents until 10:30 am. Villa parents look smug with their pinkies out, as I contemplate googling the nearest 'spoons.

All is not lost. The coffees were delicious and no more than Starbucks, as Rockerfella Mrs M points out to me. 

And what a view - the castle, a fort and a sea tractor that we both agree will never make it across the estuary.

Transpires the tractor is just a jetty and passengers disembark to a proper boat

Refreshed, we tear ourselves away for what is possibly the best walking of all of the SWCP.  The climb to Bolt's Head is proper Lord of the Rings territory. The sea views can be taken for granted but the gnarly rock formations are something a little different.

Mrs M and Ziggy

A seaward facing retaining wall for safety

Another route added to the "South Hams Must Be Walked" list. If we come next year, no planning will be required.

Walk Details

Distance - 5 miles

Geocaches - 2

Walk Inspiration