Mappiman's Real Ale Walks

Tuesday, 2 June 2026

02/06/26 - London Spiral Stage 24 - Kenley to Knockholt

Ups and Downs on the North Downs

The London Spiral had got into a complete route of built-up housing estates with little green space.

That changes on Stage 24, where the North Downs are explored. History underfoot, as ancient villages and Roman Roads are found. Then there are the hills.... all gentle in their own right but over the 14 miles, 1,150ft of ascent has been completed.

This starts from the get go - out of Kenley Station and up a chalk hill to Riddlesdown and the London Loop.

I've been here before

One of the gentle valleys on the North Downs

It's all golf courses, woodland, horse fields and the odd little village like Fickleshole. Fine, cache laden walking with two "highlights".

The words Biggin Hill will stir memories in any child of the late sixties brought up on Commando and Sven Hassell books. I was quite excited to be walking around the northern perimeter of this key site of the Battle of Britain. Until I arrived there. Dense vegetation, an overgrown footpath and a high fence. I heard aeroplanes and at one point, I saw the tail of one as it revved up for take-off.

Milking Lane Cottages, just before Biggin Hill

Refreshment should have been found at the two-pub, one-café village of Downe. A place with strong associations with Charles Darwin.

Charles Darwin moved to Down House in the village of Downe in 1842, seeking space and quiet away from London after returning from the voyage of the Beagle. He lived there with his family for the rest of his life, spending more than 40 years working, observing nature, and developing his ideas on evolution. It was at Down House that he wrote On the Origin of Species (1859) and carried out many of his famous experiments in the house, garden, and surrounding North Downs countryside. Darwin remained there until his death in 1882, by which point the house had become both his home and his lifelong scientific base.

I arrived at 10:50am, too early for the pubs but I could have murdered a cup of coffee. The café had an opening time of 11am detailed on the door but remained firmly in darkness after my 20 minute exploration of the church.

Coffee tickers having as hard a time of it as pub tickers.

A Sundial dedicated to Darwin on Downe Church

The front door of the Queens Head Pub, Downe

More countryside to Pratt's Bottom and the nearby Knockholt Station to end the walk.

Initially, I think the Bulls Head is closed. The door refuses to open and a look through the window shows a place seemingly devoid of life. I console myself with the thought I will have more time to battle Central London tube strikes, when a lady chases after me down the street to tell me they are indeed open. The door is stiff and I am not the first to fall foul of its required "twist and pull" operation.

The first fully enjoyable leg of the London Spiral is celebrated with a Harvey's Sussex Best.

Be careful not to make a Pratt of yourself at the Bulls Head

And no problems on the Northern Line from Charing Cross to Euston.

Walk Details

Distance - 14 miles

Start - Kenley

Finish - Knockholt

Areas Walked - North Downs, Biggin Hill

Geocaches - 17

Pubs - 1

Previous Walks - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10, Stage 11, Stage 12, Stage 13, Stage 14, Stage 15, Stage 16, Stage 17, Stage 18, Stage 19, Stage 20, Stage 21, Stage 22, Stage 23

Monday, 1 June 2026

01/06/26 - A Croydon Pub Crawl

Bob Steel's Edgy City

The second edition of CAMRA's London Pub Walks has a new area to discover - Croydon. With a population greater than Southampton and Brighton, Bob Steel, the author, describes Croydon as London's Edge City. He describes its unique identity, history and doesn't shy away from its concrete jungle associations or indeed recent troubles.

This was when London was burning in the 2011 riots. I can't remember exactly what they were rioting about but I do know I was there shortly afterwards, walking the Capital Ring.

Still, with a handily placed Premier Inn and great transport links - I can use it as stopover for my London Spiral Walk. Wits kept about me. Phone only checked when backs to the wall.

The pubs have to be explored. Four are in the Good Beer Guide. None are called the Swan and Paedo.

Things get off to a poor start. The only 'spoons in town is The George. The Skylark - Bob's Pub 8 - has long gone. The George is going through an 8 week renovation - possibly to banish any similarity to Piccadilly's Moon Under Water. If Social Media is to be believed, this may have been rougher. It does mean I have to re-plan tea.

GBG Dubious Tick

Surrey Street is just packing away its street market as I arrive at the Dog. It's lost the "and Bull" extension since the guide was written. It's also lost its Youngs patronage, as the beer range was rather boringly limited to Doom Bar and Landlord. Croydon's oldest pub, with an island bar and rear room with fireplace.

No Bull

Island Bar Hoggers

Two bank conversions for the price of one now. The Spread Eagle by Fullers providing Old Joint Stock vibes. Massive ceilings, a roped off staircase to a function room. No ESB but there was HSB, and a main course of Hunters Chicken only costing the same as two pints. Almost seemed a bargain. Until they delivered it to the wrong table and I nearly lost three chips.

The Green Dragon providing a similar architectural experience. A live music venue, but not on a Monday. Bob details that they have Hog's Back beers on offer and indeed, I find my first TEA for over 10 years. Thank the lord for Untapped.

Impressive Architecture at the Spread Eagle

And Green Dragon - GBG endorsed

Is the other side of the flyover Bandit Country? There's two men ripping the seats out of an SUV to use it is as a skip on wheels. By the time I return, the police are there. I'm not making this up.... the SUV was packed to the hilt with what looked like a central heating system.

But I have to press on for two more. The Royal Standard having old school charm in spades. Not the biggest of pubs but full of different entrances and nooks and crannies running around a central bar. Lovely pale wood panelling and bar. Another Fullers pub with no ESB. If it wasn't for the Doric Arch, I would be forgiven for thinking this is now a seasonal ale.

The view from under the flyover

Proper Pub Interior

Final visit of the night and it's The Bulls Head. An Irish landlord who looks like he has been there forever, yet Bob's description from 15 years ago holds no relevance now. Bob talks about the cask offering with the Cronx brewery offering guest ales, alongside more established Courage Best and Doom Bar.

Today, there is no cask.

This looked like the sort of pub that you could buy anything, alongside your keg lager. You know, a lawnmower and someone to operate it. A parrot that has picked up the locals' lingo. There's more, but I have heard the phrase that snitches get stitches.

Painted in the colours of Crystal Palace my abiding memory will be that all other players from any other team are See You Next Tuesdays.

Glad All Over

There's one more Good Beer Guide Tick available at the Builders Arms. This, and a Peep Show themed tour, are plenty of reasons to come back.

01/06/26 - London Spiral Stage 23 - Epsom to Kenley

More Surrey Housing Estates

The London Spiral is coming to its final knockings. I reckon that this, and one more 2-day trip, will see the odyssey completed.

Nothing for the walking purist on this stage. 9 miles and I have three photos. One of those documenting one of the Spiral's original intentions - to investigate public art.

The alley to the Barley Mow, Epsom

Nothing of any note until the quaint village of Woodmansterne. Everything needed for a mid walk break, including Harvey's Sussex Best at the Woodman. A bonus point for it being "Cask Monday" and the bank doesn't need to be broken. £3.25 - another Surrey bargain.

The village green

A bench for Mappiman in the sunshine

I could find nothing worth stopping for in Coulsdon - a scruffy looking town centre, where a climb is required to reach Kenley Station.

Tomorrow, I determine how the Surrey Hills get their name.

Walk Details

Distance - 9 miles

Start - Epsom

Finish - Kenley

Areas Walked - Banstead, Coulsdon

Geocaches - 5

Pubs - 1

Saturday, 30 May 2026

30/05/26 - The Oddingley Murders Walk

Murderer, Murdered

Today's walk - courtesy of the Ramblers - is a themed walk to find the locations of an 1806 double murder. Here is the story - and the characters involved.

The Oddingley Murders were a notorious Worcestershire crime that began in 1806 when Rev. George Parker, the unpopular rector of Oddingley, was shot and beaten to death while crossing a field near the village. Parker had become deeply unpopular with local farmers because of disputes over church tithes.

Suspicion quickly fell on Richard Heming, a local labourer and wheelwright, who disappeared immediately after the murder. For 24 years it was assumed he had escaped justice.

In 1830, workmen discovered Heming's skeleton buried beside a barn wall at Netherwood Farm. The discovery revealed that the suspected murderer had himself been murdered shortly after killing Parker. Evidence suggested that a group of local farmers had hired Heming to kill Parker and then silenced him to prevent him revealing the conspiracy. Several men were tried, but all were acquitted, leaving the case officially unsolved.

Key People

Rev. George Parker – Rector of Oddingley and victim of the first murder.

Richard Heming – Labourer and wheelwright; believed to have murdered Parker before becoming the second victim.

Thomas Clewes – Farmer of Netherwood Farm, where Heming's remains were discovered.

Captain Samuel Evans – Retired army officer, magistrate and owner of Church Farm; alleged mastermind of the conspiracy.

A fine walk in the Worcestershire Countryside - maybe a touch too long on a busy golf course. Of course, a pub would have improved things. The nearest pub, Speed The Plough, is just out of reach of the walk. A shame, as the pub has a part to play in the story.

After the 1830 trial for the Oddingley Murders ended with all defendants acquitted, the village of Oddingley erupted in boisterous celebrations. What should have been a moment of legal closure instead became a night of disorder and excess.

A large crowd gathered in the village and the festivities quickly got out of hand. Revellers forced their way into the church, where they rang the church bells in celebration, much to the outrage of the new parish priest. The behaviour escalated further, including drunken antics in the churchyard and even a man urinating on Rev. George Parker’s grave, which deeply scandalised onlookers.

The celebrations eventually spilled into violence, ending in a drunken brawl at the church gates.

The new rector, horrified by what he saw as sacrilegious behaviour linked to a place tainted by murder and moral disorder, insisted that the nearby pub—then called “The God Speed the Plough”—remove the word “God” from its name. It has remained simply “Speed the Plough” ever since.