24/07/26 - The London Spiral Summary

Around and around in circles for 5 years

So what's a man to do when he has walked the Capital Ring, the London Loop and the London Country Way? Each of these Long Distance Paths are circular, in ever more distant circles around the Capital. 

How about a Spiral walk that starts at Kings Cross and gets further and further out till you are dumped at Gravesend?

There are two sources available -  Inspiral London and The London Spiral Walk. As far as I can tell, they follow the same route. Inspiral London appears to be the originator, has the better mapping and has a mission statement, that is was only partly successful in achieving.

Inspiral London is a unique artist-led metropolitan trail, a collective on the ground mapping that creates a new walk trail winding in and out of London. This anti-clockwise spiral walk begins at Kings Cross, unwinding six times to finally end at Gravesend, only to begin again. The route crosses the River Thames at ten strategic locations, using bridges, foot tunnels, a cable car and ferries. At over 300-miles of pathway, the trail is divided into 36 segments all easily accessible by public transport, allowing the public – walkers, urban explorers, excursionists, citizens – to experience the city and its environs as one vast art space in which to re-imagine their city.

It's the art-space element that lost me - some of the associated blogs, did indeed identify public artworks - especially in the early stages. I am sure this was largely forgotten by the times we reached the commuter boroughs and the agricultural walks on the outer loop.

It is a fine piece of psycho-geography. Putting my journey in the hands of others, following a random and on-the-ground unmarked trail and not knowing what (if anything) I would find.

The Highlights

My appreciation and knowledge of London (especially its public transport!) has increased. All the areas you would want to explore—and some you probably wouldn't—are covered. The treasures are endless, and the stories on every street are myriad.

Of course, the pubs - 55 of them. I have been able to tick off Good Beer Guide Pubs in some of the more unloved areas of Greater London. And there have been some absolute classics, either revisited or discovered. As a big fan of the Deserter Podcast, it was almost a pilgrimage to visit the Shirker's Rest in New Cross. I exported Slabs crisps to Worcestershire. Shout outs to the Faltering Fullback (Arsenal), the Mayflower (Bermondsey), The Wanstead Tap, Cricketers (Richmond) and the Park Tavern (Eltham).

I am unsure whether I would have crossed the Thames by cable car if it wasn't for the route. Surreal, especially as I was completing an Adventure Lab Cache, airborne. I've lost track of the number of crossings but I think bridge, underpass, cable car and boat covers all the manners of the crossings.

The Lowlights

The later stages, especially the North and West, were an endless procession of housing estates. A decision point loomed at Hayes and Harlington (stage 20), where I said I would reach the river for the final crossing at Hampton and make a decision. Planning showed the remainder could be done easily with a couple of overnight stays. In true style, those four walks were poor, excellent, excellent, poor.

Arriving in Penge, a local asked me what I was doing. When I told him I had walked from Wimbledon he said "what the bloody hell have you done that for?" I was at a loss on how to reply.

The finale was disappointment. Then again, I knew the terrain of entering Gravesend from the London Country Way. There is no easy way of stating this. It's not pretty. It's not for walkers.

The Stages

Stage 01 - Kings Cross to Marylebone
Stage 02 - Marylebone to Hoxton
Stage 03 - Hoxton to Archway

Stage 04 - Archway to Kensington
Stage 05 - Kensington to Canada Water
Stage 06 - Canada Water to Turnpike Lane
Stage 07 - Turnpike Lane to Shepherd's Bush
Stage 08 - Shepherd's Bush to Clapham Common
Stage 09 - Clapham Common to Lewisham
Stage 10 - Lewisham to Wanstead
Stage 11 - Wanstead to Arnos Grove
Stage 12 - Arnos Grove to Wembley
Stage 13 - Wembley to Kew Gardens
Stage 14 - Key Gardens to Wimbledon
Stage 15 - Wimbledon to Penge
Stage 16 - Penge to Woolwich
Stage 17 - Woolwich to Roding Valley
Stage 18 - Roding Valley to Hadley Wood
Stage 19 - Hadley Wood to Carpender's Park
Stage 20 - Carpender's Park to Hayes
Stage 21 - Hayes to Hampton Court
Stage 22 - Hampton Court to Epsom
Stage 23 - Epsom to Kenley
Stage 24 - Kenley to Knockholt
Stage 25 - Knockholt to Farningham Road
Stage 26 - Farningham Road to Gravesend

Walk Summary

Distance - 275 Miles

Geocaches - 124 and many Adventure Lab Caches 

Pubs - 55

24/07/26 - London Spiral - Stage 26 - Farningham Road to Gravesend

5 Years

That's exactly how long ago - to the day - it is since I set out from King's Cross on the London Spiral.

26 day walks later, having crossed the Thames by bridge, boat, underneath and cable car. I've reached the end of the track. Although some variations cross the water again to Tilbury. But there be monsters.

I've walked out of Gravesend on the London Countryway, and I was right to not expect too much. It's impossible to access or escape, with gyratory road systems and urban spread.

But I have to get there first - and that is no fun at all either.

It's all lanes to Grub Street, where I thought I would be grateful for the countryside to the admittedly pretty Southfleet. Alas, the countryside is a horror show. Head height crops and disappearing paths. It is possible to walk around the sweetcorn but a wade through thigh-high stinging nettles and thistles is impossible.

The only photo I have is an unopened pub in Southfleet.

There are no bad pubs in the country called ‘The Ship Inn.’

From a walking perspective, a fitting end to the London Spiral Walk. It's certainly not been one for the walking purist and there were times - especially in the latter stages of housing estates of unloved London boroughs, where I thought of knocking it on the head.

Instead, I have proved that I see things through to the bitter end. 

A planned two-centre celebration for the new Good Beer Guide Ticks in Gravesend.

The Three Pillars is easily missed. A cellar bar in a Masonic hall, accessed only by steep steps. Even with Google Maps, it's a tough find.

There's a pub down there

So you would think they would make it easy for the unsuspecting traveller who has made it this far. The first sign is "Cash Only". Of course, I have no cash. You can't lie to Bromley Tramps if you do.

Despite a friendly but complicated explanation of where the nearest cash point is, I saw nothing (apart from the air conditioning) to warrant drinking alone in an underground bunker.

My other new tick - reached without passing an ATM - is the Invicta Bar. 

Open-fronted micro bar

They take card here. Mainly because they charge £7.40 to celebrate the end of an odyssey like a Mexican.

Enjoyed once, but I'm off to 'Spoons

Of course, there will be a summary blog of the route. Once I have had time to review 26 walks over 5 years.

Walk Details

Distance -  9 miles

Start - Farningham Road

Finish - Gravesend

Areas Walked - Gravesend

Geocaches - 1

Pubs - 2

Previous Walks - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10, Stage 11, Stage 12, Stage 13, Stage 14, Stage 15, Stage 16, Stage 17, Stage 18, Stage 19, Stage 20, Stage 21, Stage 22, Stage 23, Stage 24, Stage 25

23/07/26 - A Bromley Pub Crawl

The Modern High Street

Overnighting in Bromley, as I go through the final knockings of the London Spiral Walk. Civilisation (ha!) and a Bar Trek route that offered a couple of Good Beer Guide pubs, made it a tempting base.

Easy Crawling

The town is quite pretty. A more or less pedestrianised high street. Some interesting architecture in the old shop frontages. A lovely park just away from the main drag. Yet, here I am at 57 years old, doubling the amount of robberies I have witnessed in my lifetime. In just over 12 hours.

Crime 1: A Trainspotting-esque dash from Sports Direct, chased by the security guard, running style hampered by the boxes under his arms. My attention drawn by the crowd cheering. He was caught, but the guard simply retrieved the goods and let him on his merry way. 

Crime 2: Sainsbury's Local. Two of them, casually walking around, not even hiding the products and just walking out, setting off alarms but as casual as you like.

Crime 3: Greggs at breakfast time. A hungry fella walks in, takes his drink and sandwich and walks out again. The lady next to me reports it to the staff, who simply say "happens every day".

I'll get onto the pubs, before I start ranting about "Broken Windows Policing Policy".

The Partridge is a fine place to start. A solid, handsome Fuller's Pub, with a distinct air of civility with Chesterfields, atriums and smoking rooms. A beautiful Good Beer Guide Tick and a perfect ESB.

Handsome Outside....

.... and In

The next two on the crawl are both closed. The Bar Trek App is only a couple of years old, so its worrying how quickly things change. At least the Artful Duke has been repurposed as a chicken shop, the clucking crazy Saucy Bird. The Barrel and Horn is simply boarded up.

Since retirement, I am a big fan of Wetherspoons. But you have to be in the mood. As a solo pub ticker, the app is invaluable in protecting a table, but you have to be able to get a table in the first place. I thought that I would try The Greyhound a bit later, when things have calmed down.

Standing room only at the Greyhound

Instead, I was seduced by the architecturally imposing Star and Garter. Sometimes, the recipe for a good pub looks so easy that you wonder why more people don't adopt it.

Floor-mounted brass plaque states it is "1898 Vernacular Revival"

Tiling in the outside alcove

Unsure of the collective noun for fiddle players (a scrape?), there were plenty of them setting up in the corner. But my real love came from the drinks choice. I could (and probably should) have stayed here all night.

Amongst the many highlights on draught were Stille Nacht, Kernal, Deya, Ross-on-Wye ciders and in an unexpected turn, beer from my home town on cask. I have never seen Bewdley Brewery beers outside of the Wyre Forest but the bloke in front of me was ordering three pints.

Definitely the town's pubby highlight.

The Swan and Mitre didn't look like it would offer much and it didn't. My inability to leave things unfinished meant I popped my head in to see a very limited range. Why are bar staff so efficient and friendly when you just want to escape? A half of Cruzcampo out of politeness. I don't think the ceremonial chalice comes in half pints.

Low expectations, realised

Which leaves the ubiquitous micro pub. The Craft Beer Cabin will be fighting against many things. Its location, well out of town and the other pubs, will work against it. The music choice - heavy metal at an uncomfortable level - will dissuade more than it welcomes. As will the pricing. I vowed to stop drinking when it went north of a fiver for a schooner.

Peaceful.... apart from the music

Obviously run by an enthusiast but just two punters on a Thursday night won't be paying the electronic beer board Untapped subscription costs, let alone the rent. I wish them all the best.

Conscious of nightfall, I legged it back to the safety of the Travelodge.

Via the Star and Garter. The range deserved a second look.

 

23/07/26 - London Spiral Stage 25 - Knockholt to Farningham Road

Penultimate Pleasure

The final two days on the London Spiral act as a metaphor for the whole route. Today, it's lovely countryside walking on great paths. Tomorrow, the grim descent into Gravesend. The route has never been a 100% success but I am not a quitter.

The other good things about these final throes - single digit walking.

From Knockholt station, two pubs are instantly possible but even I feel the drink needs to be earned. The Bo Beep boasting an existence since 1500.

Open, but I haven’t walked enough miles to justify it.

Across fields, with views of the distant London skyscrapers and then a long passage through Lullingstone Park and the castle. Dodging golf balls.

Nestled in the Darent Valley near Eynsford, Kent, Lullingstone Castle is one of England's oldest family estates, with the Hart Dyke family having owned it continuously since the late fifteenth century. Although described as a castle, the present building is principally a Tudor manor house, incorporating elements of an earlier medieval residence whose imposing gatehouse still survives.

There’s London, from the extremes of the Spiral Walk.

A first glimpse of Lullingstone Castle

and the gatehouse

I walked the Darent Way 9 years ago - so the route under Eynsford Viaduct should be familiar. It isn't. I only know that I have visited the picture postcard Lion pub when I try to rescan the Cask Marque QR code. During that 2017 visit, it was Doom Bar for £3.65. Today, it's Harvey's Sussex Best for £6.05. What does that say? Better choice of beer? Inflation has been running at an average of 6% over the last nine years.

And yet the King of the North says it's 2.8%. 

I'm off-track and ranting again.

Look at that for timing!

Next to the folly bridge and the River Darent

Time is against me with an hourly train from Farningham Road - the walking along the river, under the M20 is pretty and geocache laden. 

What lies beneath

I made it with one minute to spare, knowing I will be back tomorrow.

If I survive lawless Bromley.

Walk Details

Distance -  9 miles

Start - Knockholt

Finish - Farningham Road

Areas Walked - Lullingstone, Eynsford

Geocaches - 9

Pubs - 1

Previous Walks - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10, Stage 11, Stage 12, Stage 13, Stage 14, Stage 15, Stage 16, Stage 17, Stage 18, Stage 19, Stage 20, Stage 21, Stage 22, Stage 23, Stage 24