12/05/26 - A Wiltshire Way Day 4 - Amesbury to Salisbury

Ancient Monuments, Gratis

The first half of A Wiltshire Way comes to an end in Salisbury. A city that makes the remote plodding and below average pub scene worth the effort.

Today, it's an easy walk and with the twin highlights of Stonehenge and Old Sarum - real highlights. Both are paid for tourist attractions but both can be experienced gratis.

Stonehenge especially so - approach from the Avenue and you find yourself on the other side of a low fence, where the patrons have paid £30. I'm up there with Martin Lewis for money saving techniques.

Come over here and save yourself £120

Geocaching trail and fine walking through Wilsford Cum Lake (make your own jokes) and refreshment found in the unlikely place of Great Bustard. From a distance, I thought it meant Boris Johnson. A posh eponymous gastro-pub, where people feel it acceptable to hold job interviews in public. I groaned at some of the answers and saw through her bull at some of her answers. The interviewer was a goon too.... often answering his own questions. By the time I had finished my Hop Back Summer Lightning, he had given himself the job.

A literal barn of a pub - the sign is more interesting

Every step getting me closer and closer to my goal - through fields of blue wildflowers until eventually, Old Sarum comes into view. An impressive hill fort, abandoned town with a castle and cathedral. The forerunner to Salisbury.

The track to Old Sarum

The ramparts - Google aerial views for the dramatic views of the Cathedral footings

And there lies Salisbury - endless history, a delightful Cathedral court and 6 Good Beer Guide ticks to attack.

It's taken me four days to get here. I fully intend to kick the arse out of it.

A spire to inspire Russian tourists with exact measurements

Walk Details

Distance - 13.5 miles

Geocaches - 56

Previous Stages on "A Wiltshire Way" - Day 1 - Swindon to Marlborough, Day 2 - Marlborough to Pewsey, Day 3 - Pewsey to Amesbury

11/05/26 - A Wiltshire Way - Day 3 - Pewsey to Amesbury

Horse, What Horse?

Pewsey was ticked off - pubs with odd opening hours, Chinese and Indian Takeaways but what it is most famous for is its White Horse.

Pewsey White Horse is one of the lesser-known chalk hill figures of southern England, cut into the steep southern slope of Pewsey Hill above the village of Pewsey in Wiltshire. Unlike many of the older white horses, it is relatively modern — created in 1937 to commemorate the coronation of King George VI.

I can see on the map that it's on the imaginatively named Pewsey Hill - which my route to Amesbury is taking me straight up. Somehow, I fail to spot it.

Pewsey Hill - The horse may be the other side of the hedge

This kind of sets the tone for the day's walking. I am on Salisbury Plain - the views are amazing. Amazingly empty. My path runs for as far as the eye can see. There's not even the frisson of being shot at or run over by a tank.

Where to stop on today's walk?

No tanks

I pick up the River Avon valley and a collection of very odd military towns. The barracks look more like a Prisoner of War camp. Hard to tell whether the barbed wire is to stop me getting in or to stop the soldiers getting out. Nothing of interest in Haxton, Netheravon, Figheldean or Ablington.

Thank the Lord for Durrington, with its Sainsbury's Local and Big Blue Cup of Joy.

The Stonehenge Inn

A pub so bad, it almost comes back around the other side of a rating system. I'm unsure what was the most naff - I suppose I would have enjoyed a double-decker bus play area in the garden as a kid. I don't think anyone appreciated the plastic menhirs guarding the entrance door. And the miniature Stonehenge summons inevitable memories of This Is Spinal Tap — one suspects the druids may soon be demanding it be built eighteen inches higher.

Gotta laugh

Face tells a different story

I'll save the rest of my review for pubsgalore.com.

Nearly in Amesbury, I am saving the real Stonehenge for tomorrow. My ancient monument today is Woodhenge - although I am unsure as to what I am looking at.

At least this is free to enter

Amesbury is full of history, with plenty to investigate. The pub scene is a little limited and hardly worth reporting.

The George is my digs for tonight and was good enough for General Fairfax to base his headquarters in the English Civil War. It is an excellent, value for money hotel and my most extravagant stay of the trip. The hotel bar did not look like it would provide much entertainment. 

Bunting

The Kings Arms was a morose, cask-less pub that may have shown the football later but I couldn't bring myself to return. Surprisingly, I saw an Australian order two pints of Fosters.

Sad Times at the Kings Arms

The Bell is an unexpected Wetherspoons for a town of this size. Due to their famous pricing system, it was the only busy pub in town. A druid in a high-visibility jacket holding court and banging his staff for emphasis on his punchlines. The beer - Stonehenge Brewery - in perfect condition. 

Ding Dong - Decent Beer - People

Finally, The New Inn. A foodie pub, again lacking atmosphere and the only drink I had to return. A rancid half of London Pride that smelled and tasted badly of vinegar. Why barmen have to "check the barrel" when they could just sniff it, I will never know. He concurred the barrel was nearing empty but it should never have got to this point. How will we ever get Australians off Fosters?

New Inn, Old Beer

Walk Details

Distance - 15.5 miles

Geocaches - 36

Previous Stages on "A Wiltshire Way" - Day 1 - Swindon to Marlborough, Day 2 - Marlborough to Pewsey

10/05/26 - A Wilstshire Way Day 2 - Marlborough to Pewsey

Man on a Deadline

Wiltshire has provided a new experience. I don't think a walk plotted on a map has so spectacularly failed to deliver in execution.

There are two very distinct walking areas for today's indirect route between Marlborough and Pewsey.

Savernake Forest is one of Southern England's oldest surviving forests. A harder look at the OS Map would have revealed the unnatural man-made tracks. Arrow straight, loose stone rides - shared with the  occasional vehicle spewing up dust - did not make for a pleasant morning. DPD were trying to set a time record for a full traverse. 

The map, more interesting than reality.

One part of the forest that DPD aren't allowed to drive

The village of Great Bedwyn offered potential refreshment but I was too early for the Three Tuns and the post office was closed on a Sunday. A first potential hazard encountered - a bull in field. Thankfully, he was distracted by a magpie in the churchyard.

Handsome beast

In an improvement on yesterday, I did find somewhere to lunch. The Swan at Wilton, a busy dining pub, where beer of the week, Ramsbury Gold, was once again found.

An admittedly poor photograph

And it was a good job I stopped here.

The afternoon's walking was along the Kennet and Avon Canal. I am from the West Midlands, from a town that solely exists because of the canal. You cannot walk for more than a couple of miles without stumbling on a pub or cafe. Not in Wiltshire. 

7 miles, where the only thing of "interest" was the Bruce Tunnel. And you have to leave the towpath to get through that.

It will be a while before my next canal walk

I met a trio of drinkers in Marlborough last night who told me that I should not miss the Shed Alehouse in Pewsey. Knowing how limited entertainment options in the town are, I was determined to take their advice. It closes at 4:30pm on a Sunday.

So the relentless canal plod was executed against a ticking stopwatch. It provided the motivation required. I was there at 4pm.

Taken after 4:30

What an odd place - the front drinking parlour is bolted onto a terraced house, containing maybe three tables. Packed solid. My 70l Osprey left on the street. To be honest, if it had been nicked, I would not have been too bothered.  Tube rules about giving your seat up to those more in need are unobserved. I'm the only mug who has traipsed 19 miles to get here.

By pint two, a gap had opened up and I was able to generate conversation with the old classic "where is best to eat in Pewsey". Always good for debate, even if the answer is not ofyen a Chinese on a bench.

There are three other pubs in town - although the Royal Oak had seemingly given up. It was open on arrival but firmly bolted before the chow mein had been ordered.

Moonrakers was where everyone in the Shed absconded to after 4:30pm. After B and B check-in (they don't do breakfast, so probably should call it a B) - I made it in time to get involved in a pub wide debate about VAR and whether West Ham's equaliser against Arsenal should have stood. Five days later and I am still undecided. Which shows why VAR needs to get in the bin. 

Wait till you see the roundabouts in Pewsey

Finally, after 33 miles of walking, I get my first Good Beer Guide Tick of the trip at The Coopers Arms. A delightful, thatched pub on the village outskirts. 

More like it

Ossett White Rat in perfect condition. If you want to get in the Bible, sell beer from Yorkshire.

Walk Details

Distance - 19 Miles

Geocaches - 4

Previous Stages on "A Wiltshire Way" - Day 1 - Swindon to Marlborough  

09/05/26 - Marlborough Night

8 Pubs, All CAMRA Unendorsed

Day 1 of "A Wiltshire Way" delivers me into Marlborough. Having passed not a single open pub since Swindon, I am delighted to have 8 to play in on a Saturday night. That's a lot to be not bothering the Bible, but has CAMRA got it right in their mass exclusion?

After the church, the first building I pay attention to is my digs for tonight. The handsome Bear.

Look closely - Arkells 

Sadly, the first pint on the Odyssey is Arkells. Beer for people that think Donnington Ales are too racy.

The blandest IPA 

From a resident's perspective, I know I'm doomed. The bunting is going up for a 50th Birthday Party. Space is being made for a band. At least they were a good band. Their midnight-approaching encore was Nick Cave's "Red Right Hand".

A walk down the broad high street to find out what else is on offer.

The Tap is a hidden away little micro, where a very expensive French restaurant was also found for my evening meal. It's takeaways on benches from here on in, blog-fans. Nothing very memorable in this shop conversion but you can tell they are trying. 2/3rds of a Lost and Grounded Helles panic-bought.

Beer Here

Surprisingly, a newly redecorated gastro-pub, The Marlborough, provided not only pint of the day, but pint of the week. I stumbled upon Ramsbury Gold in many places over the trip - but it was never served as perfectly as it was here. I suppose for £6.10, I should demand excellence.

Everything Local - which is the way they like it in these parts

Excellence - for a price

For a Saturday night, there's not a great deal going on in town. I'll lump Wellington Arms, Royal Oak, Castle and Ball and Green Dragon together. The first, a rough and ready (for the town) locals pub. The middle two Greene King pubs - with one I couldn't even bring myself to stop at - such was the poor beer choice. The final one a Wadworth house. Swordfish - a rum infused session ale - always makes me giggle.

To be fair to the Castle and Ball, friendly al fresco drinkers did engage me in conversation and provided me with the first laugh of the week. It's probably not a great idea to hurl abuse at drivers of yellow Lamborghinis when they have the top down. Rich B, for that was his number plate, did stand up for himself. 

For the local drinkers

Quite dreadful - not often I refuse a pub

Castle and Ball unphotographed - The Green Dragon

My prickers of pomposity did provide me with the local intel required. A Chas and Dave tribute act in the Lamb. 

No way was this to be missed.

Do Sainsbury's still sell rabbit?

I've never noticed the beautiful lyricism of Gertcha before but sadly left before Snooker Loopy.

Conclusions? The town delivered less than it promised by the number of options. The beer in the Marlborough is worthy of a Good Beer Guide tick. Don't book rooms in pubs with shared bathroom facilities.

Other people are animals.