Friday, 16 May 2025

16/05/25 - Handsworth, Birmingham - An AZ City Walk

Would Alan Winfield Dare to Enter?

A rather depressing walk. The guidebook wanted the walker to discover the Lunar Society.

The Lunar Society was an informal group of Enlightenment thinkers, scientists, and industrialists who met in Birmingham during the late 18th century, often under the full moon—hence the name. Key members included Matthew Boulton, James Watt, Josiah Wedgwood, Erasmus Darwin, and Joseph Priestley. They blended scientific discovery with industrial innovation, helping to drive the Industrial Revolution. Meeting at places like Soho House in Handsworth, they discussed chemistry, engineering, medicine, and social reform, shaping modern science, manufacturing, and progressive thought. The Society's legacy remains central to Birmingham’s identity as a birthplace of industrial and intellectual change.

True enough, I discovered several blue plaques and the first part of the walk, Handsworth Park, is decent enough to while away time.

Handsworth Park
Handsworth Park - Divided by a railway line - lake one side, cricket pitch the other

However, in no time, you are spewed out onto the Soho Road. Whatever good the Victorians tried to create, with their grand houses and public facilities, is long gone. You know a community is in trouble when the library employs bouncers. Fierce bouncers who pounced on me the minute I tried to find the industrial espionage stone relief. Depicting Creswick, Boulton and Watt discussing an advance in the steam engine, whilst dastardly Dick Cartwright eavesdrops.

Handsworth Library
Possibly the relief, possibly not

Other things of interest are religious; a convent and St Mary's Church, which marks the beginning and end of the walk.

Handsworth Convent
Convent
Looking down Church Hill to St Mary's, Handsworth
Looking down Church Hill

Apart from that, it was a game of spot the repurposed pub from architectural clues. The Barrel, Frighted Horse (winner of best name for a Brummie pub ever), Ivy House, Pump Tavern, Queens Head, and Red Lion are all long gone. The blog is starting to sound like lyrics to a Country and Western song.

The guidebook does point out the Observatory - a Flat Iron, end of terrace classic. A quick check on-line showed that it had lost its licence in 2020. This usually means one of two things.

The Observatory, Handsworth
Photos of Carling and Guinness and an open door

Surprisingly, it was open and a licence recently restored. This despite the court case arguing "a new licence would mean a return to “illegal parking, people drinking and urinating in their front gardens and side entrances to the properties, rows and fights on a daily basis”.

A neon sign saying "Open" and an ajar door, through which I could see a pool table. However, all the windows were completely blacked out. Perhaps vampires scared of the afternoon sunlight? 

I'm afraid that not being able to see what was going on inside made it too intimidating for me. A blog first - a pub that I was too scared to enter.

I wonder if the king of pub crawlers, Alan Winfield, would have been braver.

Probably.

Walk Details

Distance - 3.5 Miles

Walk Inspiration - AZ - Hidden Walks in Birmingham Walk 9 

Previous Birmingham AZ Walks - Walk 1 & 2Walk 3Walk 4Walk 5Walk 6Walk 7, Walk 8

Geocaches - 5

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