Saturday 31 July 2021

31/07/21 - Heart of Wales Line - Stage 3 - Llanbister Road to Knighton

Distance - 13 Miles
Geocaches - 0
Pub - Watsons Ale House, Knighton, Conwy Brewery Clogwyn Gold
Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2




It wasn't just the plague that stopped progress on the Heart of Wales Line.  Wales were adopting different travel rules to England - so even when I was allowed to travel, I wasn't allowed to travel in Wales.  Then there was a landslide.  Then there was a massive derailment and fire (unless I dreamt this).  

All told, the railway line has been out of useful operation for me since February 2020.

At the end of July '21, it looks safe to resume.

And thank God I asked the conductor to stop at Llanbister Road.  Had I not remembered how request stops work, I would have been whisked off to Swansea.

Llanbister Road
Single track request stop that is Llanbister Road


It felt good to be back.  This is the first "hill walk" that I have completed for sometime.  In a 13 mile walk, I passed one pair of walkers coming in the opposite direction.  The possibility of a pub at Lloyney had long been dismissed as having changed into a private residence.  Not that the reviews were great.  Pouring supermarket cider from a 2l plastic bottle does not a good landlord make.

Once orientating myself at the platform (the path leads directly from it), it the first of what seemed like many climbs.  Nearly 2000ft of ascent today.  That's a mountain full.

Wales
Still, you get the views.

Cnwch Bank is proper wild - feint paths cutting through the ferns - the terrain improves when Glyndwr's way is picked up.

Wernygeufron Hill
Looking down over the Teme Valley at Lloyney

Knucklas has three things of interest.  A station - should you want to bail out of the walk.  A pub - the Castle Inn - should you wish to slightly divert from the path and the viaduct.  Its only the latter that I walk past.
Knucklas Viaduct
Engineering
Knucklas Viaduct
How it happened

I've got just enough water to get me to Knighton.  The path in is superb - running high above the B4355 in shady woodlands but I'm not going to lie, I was delighted to reach civilisation.
Looking over Knighton
Knigton Below

Having completed my homework, I was aware that there is one Good Beer Guide Tick in Town.  Yet according to Google Maps, Watsons Ale House kept the same sort of hours as the Red Lion.  This entry from yester-year only opened at 4pm on a Saturday.   Which is little use to the rambler.

With it being 2:45pm, I went to check out Watsons - more in hope than expectation.

Glad I did.  Good Beer Guide Tick #571 and the first in Wales for some time.

Watsons Ale House
There's advertising!

The small print on the sign shows that Wales is still applying rules differently.  Masks on when moving around, table service only.  I see enough as a I walk past the small bar to a sun trap garden to know that Conwy Brewery Clogwyn Gold will be my tipple of choice.  Along with an iced water chaser.

Successful day back on the trail.

Watsons Ale House
It was fantsatic


Sunday 25 July 2021

25/07/21 - Upper Holloway Pub Crawl

Distance - 3 Miles

Pubs - 5

Biblical Rain Sunday, as this day shall be known.  Having walked Isleworth, I emerged at Leicester Square tube to be faced with this.  

London Rain
What will end first, the rain or my patience at hiding under a Pret Brolly

Surprisingly, I do make it back to Archway for a lazy Sunday Evening of Good Beer Guide Pub (other pubs may apply) Ticking.

Shaftesbury Tavern, Hornsey Road

Shaftesbury Tavern
Handsome

Worth the walk for a GBG Tick #568.  It provided excellent London Pride and my tea, where I am just in time for the 7pm closing of the Thai restaurant serving within.  They do not skimp on portions.  Its a wonder I managed to drag myself off the Chesterfield sofa to continue the walk.

Shaftesbury Tavern
CAMRA Interior of Historic Importance

Other things of interest?  A free jukebox that worked as well as the one in the Temple Bar, Manchester.  I was there for an hour.  No PJ Harvey was played.

Landseer Arms, Landseer Road

I wasn't sure it would be open (google is never that helpful).  My initial joy at seeing a full table of hipster yoof was dashed by them being the staff.  The pub is closed due to flooding.

Not surprising.  This is the retweet I sent to the Chairman of the Dubious GBG Tick committee to see if I could have a waiver.


Image stolen from the Internet.

Landseer Arms
Also - I had searched Twitter for LDN Storms.  I do not follow Tits McGee

St Johns Tavern, Junction Road

GBG Tick #570.  Yes, I claimed the Landseer Arms.

This is the worst of all possible Gastropubs.  I felt completely in the way here, sitting at a table set up for diners in a room full of diners.

Five Points XPA was a decent pint and you cannot accuse the Guide of using no other criteria than "Good Beer".

StJohns
Another lifted photo - Head Chef was dicking around with the awning as I left

Old Mother Red Cap, Holloway Road

A twitter recommendation that I could not ignore.  It is dangerously close to Archway Premier Inn, where I am very much enjoying the air conditioning, at the expense of a drip akin to Chinese Water Torture.


As close to an Irish Pub Experience I have had since charging around Dublin looking for the greatest hostelries available to man.

Mother Red Cap
Too full of Thai to contemplate a Guinness

The Archway Tavern, Navigator Square

Another Twitter resource that I use in the Smoke is @BeerGuideLondon.  Not that I needed any help in finding this huge pub, directly outside the Tube and Lenny's favourite budget hotel.

Archway Tavern
Magnificent Pub

I managed to get in just before closing, when the keg dispensers were getting a thorough cleaning and the only other sentient life is an Eastern European Bouncer whose appearance and accent meant he couldn't have picked a better vocation.  Oh, and a large very friendly Boxer (dog, not pugilist).

Stiegl on draft, complete with presentation chalice.  My Son's favourite.  Suddenly, my hobby made sense to him.

I spent a while looking for decent photos on the web and found a bit of history that I thought I would share.  

The interior is the cover of the Kinks Album, Muswell Hillibillies.

Muswell Hillibillies
Pub Life 1971

And look at this photo of it's yester-year glory.

Archway Tavern
Pre-Predestrianisation of Navigation Square



25/07/21 - Isleworth and the London Apprentice

Distance - 4 Miles

Geocaches - 1

Walk Inspiration - Walking Village London



My primary reason for being here on a Sunday morning was to tick off another of the pubs that Len Deighton recommended in his book, London Dossier.  I think this is number 7 out of the 11 that remain.  Progress being made.

It nearly didn't happen.  I enjoyed some Adventure Lab Caches in the City and kept an eye on the trains to Isleworth. The Pingdemic had taken its toll, with many cancellations.  Yet the 10:50 was on time and I had 5 minutes to scuttle from the London Eye to Platform 16, carrying a hot sausage roll, a black coffee and an precariously balanced oyster card.  I made it into the first carriage, with seconds to spare.

I then relaxed with my delayed breakfast, hearing the train guard announce something about the last set of doors not opening at one station but not getting past his guttural mumbles to know which.

Of course, it was Isleworth.  I was there furiously pressing an unlit button, seeing the station below.  Another Jame Bond move and I am successfully leaping through closing doors in the next carriage along, rolly-pollying onto the platform.

All that excitement - for an OK Walk.  

  • Follow the Duke of Northumberland River, an artificial waterway
  • Fail to find a Multi Cache - ignore the southern spur on the map.
  • Find Isleworth Ait, an island in the Thames
  • Determine it wasn't the Germans that destroyed the Church in 1943 but some arsonists.
    • who I bet blamed the Germans
  • Learn about the Isleworth Plague Pit
    • black death, not Covid
  • Have lunch at the London Apprentice

The Photos
Duke of Nothumberland River
Duke of Northumberland River
Isleworth Views
First views of Isleworth Ait
First views of the River
Could have been a multi pub walk
Isleworth Church
The Church - Don't blame the Germans


The London Apprentice
London Apprentice
Handsome London Apprentice

A regular entry in the Good Beer Guide, including the latest.  I like a pub that details the history on a sign to save me writing about it.

London Apprentice
Also a rowing stop off point for the er... London Apprentices


It obviously has a super enviable position - the beer garden providing wonderful riverside views.
20210725_125503
Beer Garden Views


Inside, it has a traditional, low ceiling feel that made me feel instantly comfortable but with no need to photograph.

There may have been more than one real ale on, but like always, I failed to get past the Timothy Taylor.

Good Service and an excellent Sunday Lunch.

Not bad at all from a tourist pub.

On this occasion, Len was right.



Saturday 24 July 2021

24/07/21 - Must Visit London Pubs from Len Deighton

The Background

Pre-plague, I was reading Len Deighton's London Dossier.  A 1967 Guide to the Smoke.  There was a section on pubs.  I thought to myself, that would make an interesting list to tick off.  The list is here.

A spare evening provided me with the chance to tick off another 3.  All stone cold classics.  All must visits - at least once :-)

The Blackfriar

The History

174 Queen Victoria Street

The Blackfriars
Currently covered in Scaffold.  One of my earlier photos

You're not going to find a book on London Pubs that doesn't have a couple of pages dedicated to it.  A 1902, no expense spared make over from a leading light in the arts movement, Henry Poole. There's not an interior surface that's not covered in marble, bronze or a mirror.  Jolly Monks everywhere. If they are leading you on to drink, there are counter slogans etched into the walls that are more "self improvement".  

"Industry is all", "Silence is Golden", "Wisdom is Rare".  I think Henry was playing with us.

John Betjeman saved it from demolition.  And thank God he did.  I still haven't discovered everything inside.  

Next time, I need to look devil hanging upside down from one of the four (Morn, Noon, Even and Night) light fittings in the snug.   

Part Pub - Part Art Gallery.

Today's Experience

The best place to sit is in the snug, in an area that is reserved for dining.  I haven't eaten, there is a table, and the waitress confirms it is free.  Having clocked the beers on passing (I'm a pro), I order a TT Landlord.  I am given a menu.  Everything comes with chips.  Apart from the Mac and Cheese.

I'm left a while to take clandestine photos.

The Blackfriar
The Snug - possibly the devil hanging

My pint is delivered quickly. I've been here long enough to know its London Pride.  Besides, it's etched on the glass.

20 minutes pass, no one comes to take my food order. This is enough time to decide I don't want shite service or chips, so I pay my bill and head out, taking a few more photos.

I suppose if Nicholson's run a destination art gallery/pub, you don't have to worry about customer service.
The Blackfriar
You still need to come

The Blackfriar
At least once.

In case you are worried what I had for tea, I went to the first place over the road. Never again will I go to a restaurant with Cheeky in the name. Cheeky Chicos, the Mexican, did not know how to make a frozen Margarita. What the Polish staff lacked in authentic culinary knowledge, they made up with by enthusiastically wearing sombreros.  

Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese

The History

Wine Office Court
Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese
Off Fleet Street
Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese
Need a revolution, or we have a Charlie Problem

There's plenty that have a claim to be the oldest pub in London.  This has a good claim. The date is significant for history buffs, as it's one year after London lost 80% of its buildings. It may be the cellar vaults that age from this time undisturbed. They can be visited but they are not that interesting.  Keep to the two upstairs rooms - the restaurant (chop room) or the tiny bar. When they have the coal fire going in winter, it really is something to behold.

Haunt of Dr Johnson and that old boozehound, Dickens.  You'll certainly have a drinking experience to meet theirs. Although they probably didnt have to put up with Sam Smiths.

Today's Experience

Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese
The Bar, The Coal Fire

The barman tells me they are out of all draught beers, apart from the Stout and the Organic Lager.  Nothing to do with the pingdemic shortage of lorry drivers. Poor cellar management. I ask what bottles they have and try an India Pale Ale.

Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese
At least it won't last long

I thought we put up with Sam Smiths because they were cheap. £6 for a 355ml bottle of 5% bang average beer may work out the most expensive drink I had all weekend. 

I ignore the no mobile rule to tweet my discontent.

The place slowly fills up.  They are not doing food, so the Chop Room is empty. Yet, they will not allow any new punters to sit in there - even if they have ordered crisps. Two middle aged South Coast ladies on a pub tour of London are sent packing. Normally, I don't mind sharing my table with anyone, but we are in a tiny, poorly ventilated C17th bar.

All is forgiven when they ask if I have any pub recommendations.

It amazing how long a small bottle of beer can last.

The Cittie of York

The History

22 High Holborn

Cittie of York
Getting close to last orders.  Which can be anytime in LDN


Look closely, in the centre of the sign, under the clock is "1430" emblazoned.  It certainly looks medieval inside.  But this is a Victorian swizz... 1920's mock-antique.  Even the 1430 date is a con.  The original pub was over the road.

Still, it should be admired from when it was Hennekeys Long Bar (when Len Deighton described it, it was a wine bar rather than a pub).  The long bar is a given, but check out the huge wine vats above.  Also, the little booths running on the opposite side, along with the low lighting, add to the olde world experience.

My Experience

All very quiet on a Saturday night.  London is like that.  The weekend pub experience is often less lively than a weekday.  Or at least it was.  Who knows these days?

With few around, I can photo to my heart's content.

Cittie of York
The Entrance - and I must check out the Cellar Bar
Cittie of York
Just about make out the Wine Vats and long Bar

Its a Sam Smiths, which at least has the draught beers on.  

I decide to try an Alpine,  described as a Helles Lager - of which I am a massive fan.  I have been spending lockdown ordering Ayinger, HB, Augustiner, Paulaner and Lowenbrau.  

None of these were 2.8% pish water.

I take to a booth to tweet in private.  Twitter tells me I should have had the OBB.

Cittie of York
Conspiratorial Phone Access in a Sam's 


24/07/21 - The London Spiral Walk - Stage 1

Distance - 9 Miles

Start - Kings Cross

Finish - Paramo Shop, Melcombe Street, Marylebone

Areas Walked - Kings Cross, Euston, Finsbury, Camden Town, Regents Park

Geocaches - 2

Pubs - 3 



First an introduction to this latest Long Distance Orbital Path of London.

I thought I had completed the lot - The Capital Ring, The London Loop and even the unmarked, nearly lost in time London Countryway.

Then I stumbled on the London Spiral Walk, possibly a variation of Inspiral London.

London Spiral
An indication to my future trips to the Smoke

The concepts are the same - six loops of the City - starting at Kings Cross and moving out to end at Gravesend (same as the Countryway).   The creator's purpose was to encourage urban walking, with an aim to discover public artworks.  

It's just the sort of Psychogeography that I love.  As much as I love public art, I will be adapting the route to take in Good Beer Guide Pubs, Geocaches and Adventure Lab Caches.

You've got to make pilgrimages personal.

So Kings Cross the start - and as well as admiring some very desirable housing in Keystone Crescent, I am also on the hunt for breakfast.  Hard to believe such as quiet, pretty street is a stone's throw from Spice central.

Kings Cross - The Start
Kings Cross Square - Spice Central

Keystone Crescent
Close to Gorgeous Keystone Crescent

The trail provides an old school cafe, next to a pub converted into a mosque. Sitting outside, you cannot help eavesdrop a conversation between two scots that covers everything from Raith Rovers winning 6-0, to the original bass player in Ultavox to how they kill dogs for food in China. I'm always alone, never lonely.

Blue River Cafe
Blue River - recorded for future posterity.  Free tea and toast with the F.E.B.

First surprise of the day is the Regents Canal just to the North of Kings Cross.  I've never seen Coal's Drop Yard before but is looks an oasis of calm for shopping, eating and drinking.  A place to come back to when I have more time.  

Coal Drops Yard
Coal Drop Yard

Through St Pancreas Church Yard - another quiet spot - and south past the side of Euston and into the top of Bloomsbury. Hotels, Tavistock Square, Greys Inn Road and I didn't realise how close Angel/Upper Street are to Kings Cross.  It seemed just as quick to walk as it is to take the tube.

The north, through Somers Town is certainly edgy and more of what you would expect from inner city landscapes. Ghost Tube Stations, graffiti and hoping the marked route will get me across railway lines and the canal.  It does, although its not necessarily obvious in Springbank Walk.  

York Road Ghost Tube
Ghost Tube - York Road
Regents Canal at Camden
Regents Canal - and into Camden

Its about time for a break - and there's endless choice in Camden. Surprisingly, I have two closely located, previously unvisited Good Beer Guide entries to discover. Ever so slightly of the beaten track but I am delighted with both.

The Golden Lion, Royal College Street, Good Beer Guide Tick #565

The guide talks about its history of being saved from flat conversion and how its a focal point for the community.  Hurrah - a victory for pubs.

And its a very tidy pub run by a brilliant Landlady prepared to engage in just the right level of conversation and keeping two quality ales on.  Butcombe Original was an unexpected find.
Golden Lion, Camden
Flats!  There's enough flats in London
Golden Lion, Camden
Quality Pint in a Quality Pub

Colonel Fawcett, 1 Randolph Street GBG Tick - #565

Colonel Fawcett, Camden
Not far up the road

Colonel Fawcett was one of the last Englishmen to die in a duel.  He was mortally wounded after a gun fight in 1843, in nearby Camden Road. His stricken body was carried to the upstairs of the pub, where he died and is reported to haunt the premises.

Nothing shows our progress in a woke society more than when the hipster in front of me at the bar orders a Virgin Mary.

I'm not sure the Colonel would have wanted that.  Maybe he will come down and shout "Boo!", as Mr Big Beard removes his virtuous celery.

Beerwise - there's just the one hand pull on.  Other reviewers have commented "how much do pubs pay to get in the GBG Guide, when they have only one cask on".  This seems a fair-ish point but there are plenty of keg, including the much revered Kernel.  Now, I've had this in bottles and wondered about what the fuss is.  On draught, I can understand why.  I loved it until I checked my on-line banking two days later.  £6.10 :-)

Colonel Fawcett, Camden
Well, it is a bit Gastro

I stayed for two (the music was first class) but I need to head out to the madness of Camden.  If you are looking at the route, you may see a spur to the north that goes nowhere - this was me completing an Adventure Lab Cache.  Alternative entertainment to paying "Punks a Pound to Get Drunk".

Into Camden
Bridges helping Navigation
Camden Lock - Punks on the Bridge
Camden Lock(s) with Punks that I didn't pay £1 to

Spotting the Spread Eagle on my Camden exit took me back to my first visits to London, where the Britpop Indie kids could be found in either there or the nearby Good Mixer.  As much as I enjoyed trying to spot Justine Frishmann in either of them, I always preferred the Dublin Castle.

I was going to walk on by - but who knows when I will be next in the area?  I need to make sure these places are as I remember them.  And to photograph them in case they do.

Dublin Castle
Should I stay or should I go?
Dublin Castle
Beer has improved since the late 90's
Dublin Castle
Exactly as I remember it.

Enough excitement in Camden.  Regents Park provides some much needed tranquility for a rambler, four pints in.

Regents Park Cricket
England in a photo....

I'd read a review of some Urban Walking trousers from Paramo.  The Montero trousers are jean effect, but are water/wind proof and come with discreet ventilation zips along the side.  Everything for the stylish rambler around town.

They're the sort of thing that Mrs M would never allow me to buy, if she was with me.

The Paramo shop is in Melcombe Street at the bottom of Regents Park.  I'll just pop in and try them on to see if I like them.

Never before has a walk ended in a tiny closet, behind a blue curtain.

48 hours later, whilst blogging my Soho Pub Ticking journey, I hear a cry from the master bedroom.

"What exactly are these windproof slacks in your wardrobe?"