The Background
Pre-plague, I was reading Len Deighton's London Dossier. A 1967 Guide to the Smoke. There was a section on pubs. I thought to myself, that would make an interesting list to tick off. The list is here.A spare evening provided me with the chance to tick off another 3. All stone cold classics. All must visits - at least once :-)
The Blackfriar
The History
174 Queen Victoria Street
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| Currently covered in Scaffold. One of my earlier photos |
You're not going to find a book on London Pubs that doesn't have a couple of pages dedicated to it. A 1902, no expense spared make over from a leading light in the arts movement, Henry Poole. There's not an interior surface that's not covered in marble, bronze or a mirror. Jolly Monks everywhere. If they are leading you on to drink, there are counter slogans etched into the walls that are more "self improvement".
"Industry is all", "Silence is Golden", "Wisdom is Rare". I think Henry was playing with us.
John Betjeman saved it from demolition. And thank God he did. I still haven't discovered everything inside.
Next time, I need to look devil hanging upside down from one of the four (Morn, Noon, Even and Night) light fittings in the snug.
Part Pub - Part Art Gallery.
Today's Experience
The best place to sit is in the snug, in an area that is reserved for dining. I haven't eaten, there is a table, and the waitress confirms it is free. Having clocked the beers on passing (I'm a pro), I order a TT Landlord. I am given a menu. Everything comes with chips. Apart from the Mac and Cheese.
I'm left a while to take clandestine photos.
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| The Snug - possibly the devil hanging |
My pint is delivered quickly. I've been here long enough to know its London Pride. Besides, it's etched on the glass.
20 minutes pass, no one comes to take my food order. This is enough time to decide I don't want shite service or chips, so I pay my bill and head out, taking a few more photos.
I suppose if Nicholson's run a destination art gallery/pub, you don't have to worry about customer service.
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| You still need to come |
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| At least once. |
In case you are worried what I had for tea, I went to the first place over the road. Never again will I go to a restaurant with Cheeky in the name. Cheeky Chicos, the Mexican, did not know how to make a frozen Margarita. What the Polish staff lacked in authentic culinary knowledge, they made up with by enthusiastically wearing sombreros.
Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese
The History
Wine Office Court
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| Off Fleet Street |
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| Need a revolution, or we have a Charlie Problem |
There's plenty that have a claim to be the oldest pub in London. This has a good claim. The date is significant for history buffs, as it's one year after London lost 80% of its buildings. It may be the cellar vaults that age from this time undisturbed. They can be visited but they are not that interesting. Keep to the two upstairs rooms - the restaurant (chop room) or the tiny bar. When they have the coal fire going in winter, it really is something to behold.
Haunt of Dr Johnson and that old boozehound, Dickens. You'll certainly have a drinking experience to meet theirs. Although they probably didnt have to put up with Sam Smiths.
Today's Experience
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| The Bar, The Coal Fire |
The barman tells me they are out of all draught beers, apart from the Stout and the Organic Lager. Nothing to do with the pingdemic shortage of lorry drivers. Poor cellar management. I ask what bottles they have and try an India Pale Ale.
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| At least it won't last long |
I thought we put up with Sam Smiths because they were cheap. £6 for a 355ml bottle of 5% bang average beer may work out the most expensive drink I had all weekend.
I ignore the no mobile rule to tweet my discontent.
The place slowly fills up. They are not doing food, so the Chop Room is empty. Yet, they will not allow any new punters to sit in there - even if they have ordered crisps. Two middle aged South Coast ladies on a pub tour of London are sent packing. Normally, I don't mind sharing my table with anyone, but we are in a tiny, poorly ventilated C17th bar.
All is forgiven when they ask if I have any pub recommendations.
It amazing how long a small bottle of beer can last.
The Cittie of York
The History
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| Getting close to last orders. Which can be anytime in LDN |
Look closely, in the centre of the sign, under the clock is "1430" emblazoned. It certainly looks medieval inside. But this is a Victorian swizz... 1920's mock-antique. Even the 1430 date is a con. The original pub was over the road.
Still, it should be admired from when it was Hennekeys Long Bar (when Len Deighton described it, it was a wine bar rather than a pub). The long bar is a given, but check out the huge wine vats above. Also, the little booths running on the opposite side, along with the low lighting, add to the olde world experience.
My Experience
All very quiet on a Saturday night. London is like that. The weekend pub experience is often less lively than a weekday. Or at least it was. Who knows these days?
With few around, I can photo to my heart's content.
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| The Entrance - and I must check out the Cellar Bar |
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| Just about make out the Wine Vats and long Bar |
Its a Sam Smiths, which at least has the draught beers on.
I decide to try an Alpine, described as a Helles Lager - of which I am a massive fan. I have been spending lockdown ordering Ayinger, HB, Augustiner, Paulaner and Lowenbrau.
None of these were 2.8% pish water.
I take to a booth to tweet in private. Twitter tells me I should have had the OBB.
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| Conspiratorial Phone Access in a Sam's |
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