Stage 9 of the West Midlands Way. I wouldn't be surprised if this is classed as "the best section", once complete. A nice bit of symmetry at the start and end. The ancient towns of Penkridge and Rugeley. Canals, divided by a long section of the Staffordshire Way through Cannock Chase and into the Shugborough Estate. The Staffordshire and Worcester Canal to begin, the Trent and Mersey to end.
Let's show the walk through photographs;
Penkridge Church - with an inscription of 1578 carved into the sandstone wall
Autumn begins on the Staffordshire and Worcestershire Canal
Deer in Teddesley Park
Hadrian's Arch - one of the many follys in Shugborough
Shugborough House
Having completed my research, I was keen to discover the mystery of The Shepherd's Monument, another of the Shugborough follies.
Shugborough Hall, near Stafford, is an 18th-century stately home built for the Anson family, whose naval hero Admiral George Anson brought back great wealth from his circumnavigation of the globe. The estate is famed not only for its elegant Palladian mansion and landscaped grounds but also for the enigmatic Shepherd’s Monument, erected in the mid-18th century. Beneath a carved relief of Nicolas Poussin’s painting The Shepherds of Arcadia, an inscription of seemingly random letters—“OUOSVAVV” framed by “D M”—has baffled historians, cryptographers, and codebreakers for over 250 years. Theories range from Masonic secrets and religious messages to hidden references to the Holy Grail, but despite numerous attempts, including by wartime codebreakers at Bletchley Park, the true meaning remains unresolved.
The National Trust gatehouse was unguarded and the blog needs more dodgy photos to bring the mystery to life.
Risk Taking in Shugborough
Must mean something to someone
Onwards with the (lengthy) walk;
Over Essex Birdge, a C16th Pack Horse Bridge with 14 arches...
... to pick up the Trent and Mersey Canal all the way to Rugeley
Another story awaits in Rugeley. A place detailed in the Domesday Book and most notable as an Industrial Revolution mining town. Its most infamous resident - William Palmer, the Prince of Poisoners.
William Palmer, known as the “Prince of Poisoners” was a Victorian doctor infamous for one of the most notorious criminal cases of the 19th century. Born in 1824 in Rugeley, Staffordshire, he qualified as a physician but quickly gained a reputation for greed, gambling, and mounting debts. Between the early 1850s and his arrest in 1855, a series of mysterious deaths surrounded him, including his wife, brother, and several associates, though he was only ever tried for the murder of his friend John Parsons Cook. Cook died after falling ill at the Talbot Inn (now the Shrew) in Rugeley, where Palmer was suspected of administering strychnine. His trial at the Old Bailey in 1856 drew national attention, and after being found guilty, he was hanged outside Stafford Prison that same year, cementing his reputation as one of England’s most infamous poisoners.
I spent a little time plotting the locations of his dastardly deeds before finding out that an Adventure Lab Cache had done all the work for me;
The Palmer Family Home
Grave of John Parsons Cook - Gambler, bon vivant, Palmer victim
Formerly the Talbot, where Palmer administered poison to Cook
Palmer's final home - where he may or may not have poisoned his own children
A first - the blog turns "true crime". Let's get back to its original purpose. Pubs.
I had every intention of investigating the Talbot/Shrew but thankfully I was saved from myself.... this, a subset of an online review.
At the rear is a dance floor, karaoke with loud music and disco lights...
Best to stick with the Good Beer Guide recommendations, of which there are two and only the Vine open on a Monday. Although, I have never seen a pub look less open. Nearest door to the street closed and barely a light on inside to show proof of life.
A mobility scooter further down the street gave hope
There is am eponymous brewery attached. If they sell any of their beers elsewhere, I haven't stumbled across them. A choice of at least 4, with the grapefruit IPA turned down in favour of the stout.
The pressure on with the Untappd checkin.... once I start my typing, I am told the head brewer is sat next to me. At least he is on the stout as well.
Arundel is rather special, isn't it? Never been before, you cannot not notice the castle from the railway and the South Downs Way.
Today is our first actual visit. A family reunion with the Boy, but no histrionics. We only saw him two days ago. We are based on South Hayling and he is at his partners in Horsham. Arundel marks the halfway spot between us.
Family Reunion. Borrowed Dogs.
Arundel is a historic market town in West Sussex, set on a steep rise above the River Arun at the edge of the South Downs. Its strategic location made it an important defensive site from early times, with the imposing Arundel Castle—founded by Roger de Montgomery in the 11th century after the Norman Conquest—dominating the skyline. The town’s position by the Arun made it a centre for trade and navigation, while its medieval streets, inns, and later Georgian and Victorian buildings reflect its long development as both a stronghold and a place of commerce.
A choice of walks, that start on the same riverside paths along the Arun. 45 minutes into the walk, we have a choice of the short (more time for exploring pubs and bakeries) or long.
We chose the short - finding Swanbourne Lake and associated picnic areas, the Monarchs Way and a suitable picnic spot in Arundel Park. We cannot afford the £35 a head beef roast dinners at the originally considered Black Rabbit pub. Humus and carrot batons on a log will suffice until cake.
Today's Terrain - Wonderful walking
Into town for an Adventure Lab Cache to show the historical sites. The Cathedral Church is positioned in a way that I could take up organised religion.
What a magnificent spot for a pub
Its St Nicholas, opposite that is explored internally.
Dani says we could be in Tuscany
Inside St Nicholas
Two angels holding the train of Mary the Virgin - whitewashed in the Reformation
This could become a never-ending photo blog, as the town is so pretty. We tour the medieval streets, facing the tricky choice of which of the half a dozen bakeries should supplement lunch.
Liquid refreshment is much easier. Not only is the King's Arms the only Good Beer Guide tick in town, it is also the oldest. Slightly out of the tourist town, this allows for a good honest boozer, with keen (for the area) pricing and a choice of four cask ales. Narrowed down to HSB or Jail Ale, my desire was at odds with what I blurted out. What am I doing drinking Devon beer in Sussex?
End of a perfect day
We say our goodbyes - for us, it is an afternoon throwing a tennis ball for an overactive Fox Red Labrador that must have ADHD. For them, its three games of Premier League football - as it's International Break next week.
25% less people are likely to be on the next reunion.
Walk Details
Distance - 5 Miles
Geocaches - One Adventure Lab Cache
Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine from OS Maps Web Site
July 2004 when I started to seriously engage in walking as a hobby. Since then, I have amassed a library of rambling books, subscribed to Country Walking Magazine and plotted all the routes into a computer resource that would take several lifetimes to complete.
Yet, after all this effort, there is not a single walk available on where we are dog sitting this week. Hayling Island is a black hole for the on-foot explorer.
Today's walk is as close at it gets, starting at the mainland side of the bridge at Langstone. There is a Fullers Pub, the Ship, with a car park whose boundaries are unlcear. Several signs offering fines for staying and the one sign that say how to pay is for moored boats. Fortunately, it is a 10am opener and with the staff turning up, I can confirm that we are good to go.
This is an easy walk, using the coast path into Elmsworth, with an inland diversion to see Warblington Castle. The tide is out and in the main, the seaweed is not a rotting, stinking mess of mud.
Today's Vista
At the beginning of the walk, we pass what I incorrectly assume to be a lighthouse. This is Langstone Mill, built in 1730 and running for 200 years until converted into residential accommodation in the 1930s. Of course, it was an artist who first lived there. The wonderfully named Flora Twort.
A perfectly positioned Royal Oak available for thirsty Flora
Emsworth, historically a centre for shipbuilding, oyster fishing, and milling, does have something to interest us. There are three Good Beer Guide Ticks available. We manage the two that are adjacent in the main road. Even if the Eeyore that is Mrs M insists that they won't be open at 10:30am in the morning.
I have completed my research. The Blue Bell, opens at 9.
And would you believe that there is no room? Every table taken and a constant stream of cars coming into the car park. We manage to get a seat outside, until the rain starts and then reposition to high stools at the bar. Two adults and two dogs being the worst of pub citizens, the bar blockers.
Blue Bell, Emsworth - unnaturally busy pre-midday
Hop Back Fugglestone enjoyed, even if I couldn't answer my fellow drinkers' question as to whether it is a "bitter". It is, I am just not from these parts.
No problems getting a seat at our next port of call, the beautifully tiled Coal Exchange.
A Surprising Gastro
Not that it wasn't going to get busy. Most tables were reserved for diners from midday and I can see this is a rather unusual Gastro pub - at least at Lunchtime. Never have I seen a more wet-led looking food pub.
Fullers, all I had to do was enjoy my pint, engage in good conversation with the friendly bar staff and wonder if ESB has permanently turned into HSB. The Ship, where we parked, also had no sign of my favourite special bitter. Not that there is anything wrong with HSB.
The rain came again, but we were able to shorten the route slightly by walking inland on what is marked on the OS Map as "The Church Path". Took us too close to Warblington Castle for decent photos, but what remains is on private land only. A sliver of a tower left behind after the first English Civil War.
I have spent too much time in the evenings on Twitter and Elon is convincing me there is about to be a second.
Warblington Castle from afar
Back to a more modern reference for the castle - I have Tommy, the Musical on my sky planner. During the song "Sensation", a topless Daltry launches a hang glider from the castle top, whilst mental biker gangs first fight with guns and chains and then do that stupid Mud dance, of thumb in belt loops and hip pivoting.
I am either going to have to source some drugs in Hampshire or delete the film.
There can be no in-between.
Walk Details
Distance - 5 Miles
Geocaches - 0
Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine, August 2024, Walk 6
Warwickshire's First Community Pub and Churches Aplenty
This is what I love. Finding ancient guidebooks and seeing what has changed and what still exists.
My latest eBay find - a 1951 book called "Fifty Weekend Walks round Birmingham". Walks will be tackled sequentially. Walk 1 is from Hatton. I can ignore the bus route instructions, as I don't have 1s 7d for the bus fare. I can adapt the hand-drawn map for my own needs.
North goes at the top - with little indication of distance
This is a good advert for completing research. The walk itself - through Warwickshire countryside and along rather too many roads (traffic not an issue in 1951) - would have been as dull as ditch water. By carefully reading the walk text and a little bit of googling, I was able to have something to look for at every turn. And there was even time for a spontaneous find.
Claverdon is the first sleepy village. Pinley Abbey was more interesting on the map than on the ground - as there was little to see of a nunnery founded in the reign of Henry I. In 2025, I was forced to concentrate on poorly maintained paths. On the village approach, there is an architectural oddity that looks out of place.
The Stone Building looks like a fortified tower. It was part of a grander building built by Sir Thomas Spencer, whose tomb can be investigated in the church. Once you pass the smithy, with its unusual horse-shoe front door.
Pubs, not the only thing to be converted to flats
The horseshoe fronted old Smithy
The Tomb of Sir Thomas Spencer - 1586
The guide book points out a grave with a wonderfully bleak inscription. Memorialising John Matthews, who lived during the reign of Henry VIII, and gave the land for the church to be built on. It's part of a longer sonnet that starts;
"Altho’ John Matthews under this stone lies rotten,
His deeds and name by us shall never be forgotten"
My book claims the text is still decipherable. The only other reference I can find on the Internet is from a C19th book - Shakespeare's Land - which states the tomb is near the South Porch. A good mooch around, but no success in locating it. The clue "Tomb" - and the fact he is the church benefactor - led me to believe it would have been one of the grander memorials. Maybe the text has deteriorated in the last 50 years.
South Porch, lots of text, sadly indecipherable
Wolverton is a very sleepy hamlet. A manor house and a very simple church, notable for its Norman origins and my observation, the walls are bowing outwards. No gaudy iconography here.
Wolverton Church
I'm back on the wider blog topic at Norton Lindsey. A village that has a pub. First the church, to see a Saxon font that is much older than the mainly Victorian building that houses it. Some fine stained glass windows.
The clock ticks very loudly, somewhat disrupting the internal ambience
Saxon Font - shaft wider than the bowl it supports
God is Love, Love One Another
I knew that the New Inn was Warwickshire's first community owned pub, sharing space with a shop and a cafe. I did not realise it is in the 2025 Good Beer Guide. Unexpected ticks are always the best. Especially when they are open at 2:30pm on a Wednesday afternoon.
As expected from a pub owned by 200 members of the community, the patrons were all locals. Three ladies laughing so hard they had to announce that they hadn't even had a drink. A couple of solo fellas on lout. A rather important looking fella - who I am convinced is the community ring leader - sat at the bar end on a gin and tonic. Further evidence that he is in charge from the Wi-Fi password - "haveagin", all lower case. He might have been responsible for commissioning the pub poem;
A ballard for boarded-up boozers
This lack of cask activity left me slightly concerned that the TV Screen showing the available ales, with a detailed description of each, listed six different choices. I wondered who was the last person to have ordered an Old Hooky.
I had nothing to fear. It was in fine condition.
Old Hooky
Having had my fun, I ensure I return home a hero. Carrot cake from the adjacent shop for Mrs M and the boy.
Walk Details
Distance - 10 miles
Geocaches - 10
Walk Inspiration - Fifty Weekend Walks round Birmingham, Walk 1
A day in Central London. There's been a series of Geocaches placed for an event that are about to be archived. Having completed half already, it would be shame to leave gaps on the map. Psycho-geographic street meanders looking for magnetic tubs on the back of electrical boxes is not for everyone, but it kept me entertained.
I suppose you could end up anywhere in London and be close to a classic pub. I finish at Borough Tube for a return visit to the Royal Oak in Tabard Street.
Would certainly be my local, if I lived in the Borough
A timeless Harvey's House - central bar, two rooms, hard seating. One clever home worker, having set up his workstation in the corner. If I had heard a Microsoft Teams chime, The Fear would have returned.
The beer is always in top condition in here and as much as I would have loved a Sussex Best, I decided to go for a lesser spotted Old Ale. And its not even autumn.
Sure the mild was worth experimenting with as well.
Tear myself away for an official walk. I am very close to finishing a guide book - Andrew Duncan's Favourite London Walks. I date every walk completed and this has provided inspiration since 2004. It's absolutely terrifying where time disappears to.
A 3.5 mile walk across Hyde Park, Green Park and St James Park. If I had used available subways, it is possible that the entire walk could have been completed without crossing a road.
The book is packed with facts. I'll give you one. James I opened St James Park to the population and used to keep a zoo. In it was an elephant that used to drink a gallon of wine a day.
A lovely meander, with sights at every corner. One you could do time and time again and find something new.
Here's a short collection of today's (obvious) discoveries.
Kensington Palace, gone wild
The Serpentine - the damming of the River Westbourne
Buckingham Palace, obviously
The view from St James Blue Bridge
Big Ben without scaffolding
Walk Details
Distance - 3.5 Miles on the Parks Walk, 10 overall
Geocaches - More than 50, lost count.
Walk Inspiration - Andrew Duncan's Favourite London Walks
Wigan - just about within the Greater Manchester area - lists 8 pubs in the 2025 Good Beer Guide. I manage the first four, following a morning on the Greater Manchester Ringway. Is there enough here to justify a return visit?
Not if Tap 'n' Barrelis an accurate representation of the local beer scene. A micro pub, hosted down a small shopping arcade, I struggle to find service. An unmanned bar, that remains unmanned to the point of discomfort. Should I say something to the two other punters? Should I help myself and break my duck of having "never pulled a pint in my life"?
External Speaking sharing indie pop to the streets of Wigan
After a good five minutes, a lady appears from upstairs and apologises. Pork pies are available on the weekend and I determine the weekend starts on a Friday lunchtime. Three real ales are on, but all pale ales. I make a mistake with my Wensleydale Semer Water, which was definitely on the turn. That slightly acetic sniff and taste of vinegar. It should really have been returned.
Lunch, nearly sorted
A better experience at the very traditional Anvil. And prices that cannot be sniffed at. Phoenix Brewery Arizona a spoons-esque bargain of £3.45.
Red Brick....
... And Multi Award Winning
Wigan Central, hosted in railway arches, is a good place to sit and ponder my homeward journey at a town that has two adjacent railway stations. I could bang on about the complexity of our railway system but all I will say is this. A 48 minute, two train journey from North Western is three times the price of a 68 minute, three train journey from Wallgate. Even when there are severe delays from Wallgate. I am hoping to recoup the cost of a couple of pints from Northern.
Under the arches....
Wigan Central offer an interesting selection of beers - both local cask and international keg, which is my blueprint for how a micro should operate. I'm a little unsure of the gimmicky railway signal ordering system available on all tables. A full pub, and no one taking advantage of table service by raising the flag.
Abbeydale Black Mass always getting acknowledgement from the brewery during an Untappd check in.
Which leaves for today the 2021 Historic England Conservation award winning Swan and Railway.
An unassuming exterior leads to one of those labyrinthine pubs with many rooms to explore. After a long discussion with the barman about Bass, I settle in the front left room - with a spreadsheet of pub tickers and a couple of delayed train travelers.
Pub Art #1
Pub Art #2
Enough here to warrant coming back to find the remaining four. Although spending an afternoon in the Swan would also be recommended.
