Stage 9 of the West Midlands Way. I wouldn't be surprised if this is classed as "the best section", once complete. A nice bit of symmetry at the start and end. The ancient towns of Penkridge and Rugeley. Canals, divided by a long section of the Staffordshire Way through Cannock Chase and into the Shugborough Estate. The Staffordshire and Worcester Canal to begin, the Trent and Mersey to end.
Let's show the walk through photographs;
Penkridge Church - with an inscription of 1578 carved into the sandstone wall
Autumn begins on the Staffordshire and Worcestershire Canal
Deer in Teddesley Park
Hadrian's Arch - one of the many follys in Shugborough
Shugborough House
Having completed my research, I was keen to discover the mystery of The Shepherd's Monument, another of the Shugborough follies.
Shugborough Hall, near Stafford, is an 18th-century stately home built for the Anson family, whose naval hero Admiral George Anson brought back great wealth from his circumnavigation of the globe. The estate is famed not only for its elegant Palladian mansion and landscaped grounds but also for the enigmatic Shepherd’s Monument, erected in the mid-18th century. Beneath a carved relief of Nicolas Poussin’s painting The Shepherds of Arcadia, an inscription of seemingly random letters—“OUOSVAVV” framed by “D M”—has baffled historians, cryptographers, and codebreakers for over 250 years. Theories range from Masonic secrets and religious messages to hidden references to the Holy Grail, but despite numerous attempts, including by wartime codebreakers at Bletchley Park, the true meaning remains unresolved.
The National Trust gatehouse was unguarded and the blog needs more dodgy photos to bring the mystery to life.
Risk Taking in Shugborough
Must mean something to someone
Onwards with the (lengthy) walk;
Over Essex Birdge, a C16th Pack Horse Bridge with 14 arches...
... to pick up the Trent and Mersey Canal all the way to Rugeley
Another story awaits in Rugeley. A place detailed in the Domesday Book and most notable as an Industrial Revolution mining town. Its most infamous resident - William Palmer, the Prince of Poisoners.
William Palmer, known as the “Prince of Poisoners” was a Victorian doctor infamous for one of the most notorious criminal cases of the 19th century. Born in 1824 in Rugeley, Staffordshire, he qualified as a physician but quickly gained a reputation for greed, gambling, and mounting debts. Between the early 1850s and his arrest in 1855, a series of mysterious deaths surrounded him, including his wife, brother, and several associates, though he was only ever tried for the murder of his friend John Parsons Cook. Cook died after falling ill at the Talbot Inn (now the Shrew) in Rugeley, where Palmer was suspected of administering strychnine. His trial at the Old Bailey in 1856 drew national attention, and after being found guilty, he was hanged outside Stafford Prison that same year, cementing his reputation as one of England’s most infamous poisoners.
I spent a little time plotting the locations of his dastardly deeds before finding out that an Adventure Lab Cache had done all the work for me;
The Palmer Family Home
Grave of John Parsons Cook - Gambler, bon vivant, Palmer victim
Formerly the Talbot, where Palmer administered poison to Cook
Palmer's final home - where he may or may not have poisoned his own children
A first - the blog turns "true crime". Let's get back to its original purpose. Pubs.
I had every intention of investigating the Talbot/Shrew but thankfully I was saved from myself.... this, a subset of an online review.
At the rear is a dance floor, karaoke with loud music and disco lights...
Best to stick with the Good Beer Guide recommendations, of which there are two and only the Vine open on a Monday. Although, I have never seen a pub look less open. Nearest door to the street closed and barely a light on inside to show proof of life.
A mobility scooter further down the street gave hope
There is am eponymous brewery attached. If they sell any of their beers elsewhere, I haven't stumbled across them. A choice of at least 4, with the grapefruit IPA turned down in favour of the stout.
The pressure on with the Untappd checkin.... once I start my typing, I am told the head brewer is sat next to me. At least he is on the stout as well.
Another book to work my way through. Worcestershire's Historic Pubs. No index and rather haphazard organisation - chapters on Mug Houses, Canal and Railway Pubs, Road Side Pubs and Locals.
The Bell at Pensax is filed under "Road Side Pubs".
Proper Pub Queuing
Book published in 2007
The walk is from the Ramblers. Pensax and Menith Wood don't offer much for discovery. Half-hearted coal mining, but no evidence on the ground. I have to make do with hop fields, woodland and some fine views of the Worcestershire countryside.
At least I think they are hops. The Seek App identified them as "common weeds"
This is the third time I have walked past Burnt House. There's a hermit that lives in splendid isolation with an ever-increasing collection of junk. Last time I passed, a radio was playing but all was in silence today. The next field has a farmer chopping down a tree who confirms that the eccentric is still alive. Maybe he has run out of battery.
Pub Archaeology at Menith Wood. The OS Map shows the big blue cup of joy, but identifying the Cross Keys proves impossible. The internet provides only one nondescript external photo but a Facebook page hints at the joy within. A closed pub is more than bricks and mortar; it is the fading of countless conversations, celebrations, and friendships.
The former landlady and slightly menacing landlord
We made our own entertainment. It was shite.
A return to the Bell at Pensax. It was a permanent feature in the Good Beer Guide and was probably my first serious attempt at blogging pubs. It was closed for a few years and reopened in 2023. But not to universal acclaim. CAMRA removed it from its "Inventory of Historic Interiors" when the snug was lost during the renovation.
Bell forged in 1886 - about the same time as the pub
The central serving hatch has also gone, but they leave the sign where Miss E Wallop has sold out her female sisters by insisting they know their place.
A pub is no place for discretion
A dining room to the left and the main bar to the right. Log Burner, flagged floors and a frankly unnecessary selection of 6 cask ales. No need, there are only two other punters on a Thursday lunch.
I'm counting four pales and two bitters. Is there any need?
To be fair, the Ludlow Gold was pulled through with a full 100% "wastage". One pint for the sink, one pint for me.
Monumental sausage rolls and scotch eggs available under a glass dome. Alas, the Mappiman retirement budget only runs to a liquid lunch, despite the temptation of a wonderful smelling fish finger sandwiches delivered to the two other punters.
Hard, when the storms meant you didn't bother taking sandwiches on the ramble.
Not too much to say about the walk. It was perfect for our needs, but little of interest is passed as we navigate agricultural fields to Fishbourne and then head back along a tide-out coast.
Fishbourne's Duck Pond
The Coastal Path....
.... Leads into Bosham
And what an interesting place Bosham is. Full of myths and legends, some actually discovered during investigation of the two dominant structures - the church and the pub.
Legend 1 - A Roman Port
The area has been inhabited since Roman times and was once known as Magnus Portus (“great port”), as recorded in Ptolemy’s Geography. The Roman legacy includes remains like a temple, mosaic, theatre, and the remarkable “Bosham Head” — a huge stone sculpture likely of Emperor Trajan — now housed in Chichester museum.
Bede noted that in 681 Bishop Wilfrid found a small monastery in Bosham led by Dicul, an Irish monk. A church followed in AD 850, and by the 10th century, the present Holy Trinity Church stood — built atop possible Roman remains. The church retains Saxon features in its lower tower and chancel and underwent expansions in Norman and later periods.
The church doors were open and full of tourists. What a special place;
Close up on Entry
Rough-hewn stone walls and a crypt to investigate
C11th Saxon Font
Legend 3 - King Canute's Daughter
Legend says King Canute’s young daughter drowned in a nearby millstream and was buried in the church. In 1865, a small stone coffin was found in the nave, reviving this tale — though its authenticity remains uncertain.
Legend 4 - The Bosham Bell
One enduring legend tells of Danish pirates stealing the church’s tenor bell, only for it to break free at sea and sink the ship — it now lies in “Bell Hole” amid the harbour. Today, locals claim the bell’s muffled toll still answers the church bells during ringing. Bosham Sailing Club even features this bell imagery in its burgee, celebrating the legend.
Legend 5 - King Harold and the Bayeux Tapestry
Bosham features prominently in the Bayeux Tapestry, showing Harold (Earl of Wessex) riding to Bosham church in 1064 before his voyage to Normandy. His association with the village fuels speculation that he might be buried there; in 1954, alongside the child’s coffin, another coffin with a richly dressed man was found — but exhumation was refused in 2004.
With a recreation displayed on the Church Wall;
Eye Eye - It's King Harold
Which leaves the pub. From the name alone, I had high hopes for the Anchor Bleu - from the pub sign, I would say named after a sailing vessel. It wears its 300-year history well, with low ceilings and flagged stone floors. Catering for lunch time foodies, we meet a rarity in British Hospitality. There are no sandwiches on the menu, but they check with the chef and we are offered a choice of three. Brilliant.
The only other surprise is that it's not in the Good Beer Guide. Four interesting and unusual cask ales - My Arundel Brewery Sussex Gold was in perfect condition. I can only assume the tide was out when the local CAMRA's were on the prowl.
In the end, we chose off the menu and Mrs M - of notoriously high lunch standards - declared it the best quiche she had ever tasted.
A fitting end to our last "proper" walk from our week's base in Hayling Island.
How could you not fall in love?
Walk Details
Distance - 5.25 Miles
Geocaches - 1
Walk Inspiration - Pub Walks for Motorists, Kent, Surrey and Sussex, Walk 25
Arundel is rather special, isn't it? Never been before, you cannot not notice the castle from the railway and the South Downs Way.
Today is our first actual visit. A family reunion with the Boy, but no histrionics. We only saw him two days ago. We are based on South Hayling and he is at his partners in Horsham. Arundel marks the halfway spot between us.
Family Reunion. Borrowed Dogs.
Arundel is a historic market town in West Sussex, set on a steep rise above the River Arun at the edge of the South Downs. Its strategic location made it an important defensive site from early times, with the imposing Arundel Castle—founded by Roger de Montgomery in the 11th century after the Norman Conquest—dominating the skyline. The town’s position by the Arun made it a centre for trade and navigation, while its medieval streets, inns, and later Georgian and Victorian buildings reflect its long development as both a stronghold and a place of commerce.
A choice of walks, that start on the same riverside paths along the Arun. 45 minutes into the walk, we have a choice of the short (more time for exploring pubs and bakeries) or long.
We chose the short - finding Swanbourne Lake and associated picnic areas, the Monarchs Way and a suitable picnic spot in Arundel Park. We cannot afford the £35 a head beef roast dinners at the originally considered Black Rabbit pub. Humus and carrot batons on a log will suffice until cake.
Today's Terrain - Wonderful walking
Into town for an Adventure Lab Cache to show the historical sites. The Cathedral Church is positioned in a way that I could take up organised religion.
What a magnificent spot for a pub
Its St Nicholas, opposite that is explored internally.
Dani says we could be in Tuscany
Inside St Nicholas
Two angels holding the train of Mary the Virgin - whitewashed in the Reformation
This could become a never-ending photo blog, as the town is so pretty. We tour the medieval streets, facing the tricky choice of which of the half a dozen bakeries should supplement lunch.
Liquid refreshment is much easier. Not only is the King's Arms the only Good Beer Guide tick in town, it is also the oldest. Slightly out of the tourist town, this allows for a good honest boozer, with keen (for the area) pricing and a choice of four cask ales. Narrowed down to HSB or Jail Ale, my desire was at odds with what I blurted out. What am I doing drinking Devon beer in Sussex?
End of a perfect day
We say our goodbyes - for us, it is an afternoon throwing a tennis ball for an overactive Fox Red Labrador that must have ADHD. For them, its three games of Premier League football - as it's International Break next week.
25% less people are likely to be on the next reunion.
Walk Details
Distance - 5 Miles
Geocaches - One Adventure Lab Cache
Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine from OS Maps Web Site
July 2004 when I started to seriously engage in walking as a hobby. Since then, I have amassed a library of rambling books, subscribed to Country Walking Magazine and plotted all the routes into a computer resource that would take several lifetimes to complete.
Yet, after all this effort, there is not a single walk available on where we are dog sitting this week. Hayling Island is a black hole for the on-foot explorer.
Today's walk is as close at it gets, starting at the mainland side of the bridge at Langstone. There is a Fullers Pub, the Ship, with a car park whose boundaries are unlcear. Several signs offering fines for staying and the one sign that say how to pay is for moored boats. Fortunately, it is a 10am opener and with the staff turning up, I can confirm that we are good to go.
This is an easy walk, using the coast path into Elmsworth, with an inland diversion to see Warblington Castle. The tide is out and in the main, the seaweed is not a rotting, stinking mess of mud.
Today's Vista
At the beginning of the walk, we pass what I incorrectly assume to be a lighthouse. This is Langstone Mill, built in 1730 and running for 200 years until converted into residential accommodation in the 1930s. Of course, it was an artist who first lived there. The wonderfully named Flora Twort.
A perfectly positioned Royal Oak available for thirsty Flora
Emsworth, historically a centre for shipbuilding, oyster fishing, and milling, does have something to interest us. There are three Good Beer Guide Ticks available. We manage the two that are adjacent in the main road. Even if the Eeyore that is Mrs M insists that they won't be open at 10:30am in the morning.
I have completed my research. The Blue Bell, opens at 9.
And would you believe that there is no room? Every table taken and a constant stream of cars coming into the car park. We manage to get a seat outside, until the rain starts and then reposition to high stools at the bar. Two adults and two dogs being the worst of pub citizens, the bar blockers.
Blue Bell, Emsworth - unnaturally busy pre-midday
Hop Back Fugglestone enjoyed, even if I couldn't answer my fellow drinkers' question as to whether it is a "bitter". It is, I am just not from these parts.
No problems getting a seat at our next port of call, the beautifully tiled Coal Exchange.
A Surprising Gastro
Not that it wasn't going to get busy. Most tables were reserved for diners from midday and I can see this is a rather unusual Gastro pub - at least at Lunchtime. Never have I seen a more wet-led looking food pub.
Fullers, all I had to do was enjoy my pint, engage in good conversation with the friendly bar staff and wonder if ESB has permanently turned into HSB. The Ship, where we parked, also had no sign of my favourite special bitter. Not that there is anything wrong with HSB.
The rain came again, but we were able to shorten the route slightly by walking inland on what is marked on the OS Map as "The Church Path". Took us too close to Warblington Castle for decent photos, but what remains is on private land only. A sliver of a tower left behind after the first English Civil War.
I have spent too much time in the evenings on Twitter and Elon is convincing me there is about to be a second.
Warblington Castle from afar
Back to a more modern reference for the castle - I have Tommy, the Musical on my sky planner. During the song "Sensation", a topless Daltry launches a hang glider from the castle top, whilst mental biker gangs first fight with guns and chains and then do that stupid Mud dance, of thumb in belt loops and hip pivoting.
I am either going to have to source some drugs in Hampshire or delete the film.
There can be no in-between.
Walk Details
Distance - 5 Miles
Geocaches - 0
Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine, August 2024, Walk 6
The Wyre Line Rail Trails abruptly stop at Hagley. There are more Rail Trails on the line available, but these don't restart until after the Birmingham Stations. I was able to get a decent countryside ramble from Hagley to Stourbridge, but I can kind of see their thinking. Not much to encourage the walker between Stourbridge and first Lye, then Cradley Heath.
Unless the walker doesn't appreciate the upcycling Henry the Hoovers as plant pots.
Upcycle
Or attention to detail and anatomically accurate graffiti.
The wind blows hard in Wollescote
For the old-school walker - views of the day from Stevens Park would be more appreciated.
The Black Country
Lye is the next station on the line, but we have only just begun walking. The Dudley Real Ale Trail suggests the Windsor Castle for the sole stop. Sadly closed down now - but still providing fond memories of my first ever brewery tour, where the lesson learned about "finings" is used to ask sensible questions on all subsequent tours. We cannot even blame demographic changes for the closure. My first visited curry house over the road is also closed.
Standing Proud but sadly closed
Lye Central behind the memorial to Sir Cedric Hardwicke
The Holly Bush bucks the trend. A community boozer that is open from 10am in the morning. Will anyone be in there at 11:01am on a Wednesday?
Plenty.
Under starters orders at 10am in Cemetery Road
I think they were rather surprised to see a new face. No real ale on, which at times can be a relief. Most of the posse on the left hand side, but one solo drinker on his own on the right. In the 30 minutes to took me to drink a Guinness and come to terms with the latest West Ham Meltdown on Sky Sports, the solo fella managed three pints of John Smiths. Impressive dedication, by anyone's book.
Up Thorns Road for Adventure Lab Caching in another Stevens Park before arriving at the top of the hill for Quarry Bank. The aforementioned trail telling me to visit the Church Tavern, formerly known as the Nailers.
But first - the real church, an impressively huge Victorian edifice.
Christ Church, Quarry Bank
In the field research told me the main item of interest here was the grave of a music hall actor, Charles Godfrey, who died in 1900.
Charles Godfrey (born Paul Lacey, 26 April 1854 – May 1900) was a highly acclaimed English music hall entertainer, remembered as one of the most phenomenally successful artistes of his day.
A heavy drinker throughout his life, Godfrey’s health suffered, and he died prematurely in May 1900, aged just 46.
Enough clues from the Black Country Society Blog to track down his final resting place.
Last Orders
In honour of a fellow drinker, it was over the road to the Nailers – which well and truly hammered the final nail in my coffin when it comes to trusting cask in unknown premises.
The Church Tavern
Let me explain why it won my trust - a good, recent review on www.pubsgalore.com. Untappd showing a rotating list of cask ales, many of which were my favourites. The Real Ale Guide.
Two punters - both on Carling - should have been the counter-warning. Still, I ploughed on, choosing the Burton Bridge Stairway to Heaven over a more LocALE Holden's Golden Glow.
It was dreadful - smelly, cloudy and nasty tasting.
Would you have taken it back, potentially facing a shooting stars-esque raising of handbags and a "Oooooh" from the Carling Twins?
I simply vowed to always ask for a sample first.
Like I did the last time this happened.
Walk Details
Distance - 4 Miles
Geocaches - 6
Future Inspiration;
Taking the narrative from the Black Country Society Blogs and turning them into walks
The Dudley Trail - 5 Walks of varying lengths, which appear to have a common start. A section passed in Stevens Park
