30/07/23 - Chiltern Chain Walk - Stage 17 - Christmas Common

The Unexpected Remoteness of the Chiltern Hills

Nearly 6 hours and 15 miles walking in the Chilterns. On several named paths - the Ridgeway, the Chiltern Way, the Oxfordshire Way. Yet I pass few people, visit no villages and the only pub is a revisit to the Fox and Hounds at Christmas Common. Visited on Stage 16 of the Chiltern Way.

I should have made a note of the entertainment that the walk author achieved. He recorded every wild flower observed to keep himself going. I can give you are report on the animals encountered - two large deers and a hare.

The walk starts at the Watlington Hill National Trust Car Park and works its way south to pickup the ridgeway, It's the usual Chiltern Ups and Downs, on great tracks and through lots of woods - the biggest being Warburg Nature Reserve. Packed lunch at Pishill Church and a most welcome post walk pint in on a sofa under a teepee at the Fox and Hounds. The Untappd lowest ever scoring Brakspear Gravity once again defying its poor reputation. Perfectly kept and I'll do my best to raise its average rating.

Starting the day going downhill from Watlington Hill NT Car Park

Information booth at Warburg Nature Reserve

Pishill Church - View from a lunchstop bench

The Oxfordshire Way taking me home

Familiar Ground, Familiar Pint - Brakspear Gravity at the Fox and Hounds, Christmas Common

I wish I could bring you more than a scattering of meaningless photos.

Next time, I will come prepared with my Guidebook to British Wild Flowers.

Walk Information

Distance - 14.5 Miles

Geocaches - 2 

Walk Inspiration

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10, Stage 11, Stage 12, Stage 13, Stage 14, Stage 15, Stage 16

29/07/23 - The Kings Arms, Ombersley - An Historic Inn of Interest

 A Pub Good Enough for King Charles II

Another day, another book for inspiration.

3/6 in Old Money

This is part of a series published by county in my birth year, 1969. Ebay is a wonderful thing. Said Mrs M, never.

50 inns detailed for Worcestershire, so that will keep me going for a while.  A page per pub, with background information and pub highlights of old. In 1969, Ombersley's Kings Arms was a Bass/M&B Pub and the Ploughmans was highly recommend.

Before sustenance, a walk. An easy ramble across agricultural land, along the Severn Way and back through the ancient hamlet of Uphampton. No surprises, if you exclude what fishermen leave behind in the undergrowth. 

Ombersley Court and Church at the start of the walk

Holt Fleet Bridge with an Inn either side, if you want to make a day of it

Severn Way Marker

Fine views over Abberley on the return through Uphampton

Onto the pub - which according to the guide has been in existence since 1411, although the exact date of the current building is unknown. Timbered coaching house, it was used by King Charles II on the first night of his escape from the Battle of Worcester in 1651. The rumoured bed he slept in, still in the building, apparently.

View from a Beer Garden

Remove the cars, and this street scene is unchanged for centuries

No internal photos, but you can use your imagination of low ceilings and inglenook fireplaces but alas, the guide book mentioned suits of armour are no more.  

An unexpected Youngs Special London Ale on offer but I'll keep it honest on the blog. With an uninspiring lunch time menu lacking what you'd class as "light bites" - we hot footed it to the Cross Keys up the road. 

But that wasn't in the guide book.

Walk Details

Walk Inspiration - AA 1001 Walks, Walk 454

Distance - 5 Miles

23/07/23 - Belgian Beers in the Malverns

 Station to Station Walking for the Best Pub in the Land

There it is, I have said it. 20 years of serious pub ticking and I am prepared to declare a winner.

The Nag's Head, Malvern.

In a blog where I have walking company and take the least amount of photos of any walk completed.

Normally, these boys days out are in more glamourous national parks but with one of us in post op recovery, a gentle six miler was deemed best to test a new leg joint.

Letting the train take the strain, we alight at Colwall for a jaunt up the Western Flanks of the hills to pick up the Northern Malverns at the Wyche Cutting.  A simple dissection to the Worcestershire Beacon and then a skirt past Sugarloaf before taking Lady Howard De Walden drive, zigzaging down to the pub.

Looking South down the Spine of the Malverns

Looking North to Sugar Loaf

If anything, the walk was too short.  

So why is the Nag's Head so good?  Let me count the ways.

• Wonderful pubby interior of low beams, a fire place, a squeeze to get in and to get to the bar.  Conversation inducing.
• A separate dining room and the food, especially a sunday lunch - is very good
• An external patio covered and sheltered
• If you can't fit in a full Sunday Lunch, they do a roast sandwich, with yorkshire pudding, roast potatoes and a gravy boat.
• The gravy is that good, I could drink it from the pot.
• And if I was alone, I would have.
• The beer.  A printed menu is available and its the perfect mix of traditional, craft and foreign.  In 90 minutes, it was;
• Timothy Taylor Landlord
• Burnt Mills Shivelight New England Pale Ale
• Hook Norton Old Hooky
• Orval

Chalice was returned by hand.  I know what you are thinking, but I'm not an animal

With trains only every hour on a Sunday, we had a decision and a 1/2 mile dash to make to get to Malvern Link. To avoid future confusion, the Worcester Bound Platform is the nearest.

And what's in Worcester..... only Tripel Bs.  Possibly the best Belgian Cafe this side of the water.

Paljas Saison on draft with correct glassware.

Honestly, you need to take up walking. It's great.

Walk Details

Distance - 6 Miles

Start - Colwall Station

Finish - Malvern Link Station

22/07/23 - The Royal Oak at Tetbury

 Trouble at Tetbury

11 years since my last visit to Tetbury. A walk marred by bad weather and a bad pint. Armed with a Good Beer Guide Tick to aim for but still in appalling weather, I hope to have at least 50% more success this time. 

Today's walk start at the old railway station - a Beeching casualty - with the goods shed now repurposed as an Arts Centre. A cafe and free parking makes for a busy start, even if the rain is coming down as stair rods. Rain spotted photos, when I can be bothered.

A sequential (no need) Adventure Lab Cache forces me to look for clues through the town centre first. Counting screws in door brackets in a storm..... how do you spend your weekends?

The Market Place - an a pedestrian unfriendly town.

Tetbury Church, where I hunt for an 8 layered pyramidal tombstone

The walk breaks down into three distinct stages - agricultural fields on the Monarch's Way - lane walking to Newnton Hill and a wonderful disused railway line called the Tetbury Trail.

Easy walking on the hardcore

I noticed the Trouble House on the drive in. A former pub, it now looks like a cafe but post walk research has the magic three letters - B A R. I should have explored more - its a mere half mile in the other direction to reach it on foot. The wikipage makes for a fine story. The area known as "The Troubles" - due to both flooding problems and issues with press-gangs. The Trouble House Halt became the only railway stop built to serve a pub and didn't they put up a fight when the Beeching Axe fell. A coffin full of empty whisky bottles sent to the destroyer of railways. The last passenger train stopped on the tracks by burning hay bales.

Where is this spirit of rebellion now?  

France.

My refreshment is the GBG Tick - the Royal Oak. Situated more or less at the former Tetbury station.

Alas, a pub that is less than the sum of its parts.

Cotswold GBG Ticking

Accommodation blocks and a nice garden for another day

Inside, its strangely soulless for a pub. Wood aplenty, most tables with "reserved" signs. Staff that refer to you as "Sir" far too often for it to be comfortable, especially when they are from higher up in the class system.

Otter Bitter was one of four available - and maybe a touch too cold, but OK.  A sausage sandwich for a tenner that came on regular sliced bread that couldn't cope with the sogginess of the onions, less palatable.

Especially when the order was lost.

Lots and lots of wood in the Royal Oak

I'd say me and Tetbury are done - but the Trouble House needs investigating.

Might be in another 11 years.

Walk Details

Distance - 5 Miles

Walk Inspiration - Guide to Cotswold Pub Walks, Walk 14

Geocaches - 1 regular, 1 ALC

 

 

15/07/23 - Centenary Way Stage 20 - The Fenny Compton, Avon Dassett Classic

 A familiar route walked several times, but never in a thunderstorm 

I've not been the greatest fan of the Centenary Way but there can be no complaints about this classic walk that can be started at either (pub hosting) village.

I start at Fenny Compton for a return visit to the Merrie Lion. The height of the Burton Dassett Hills quickly gained to provide fine Warwickshire views.

Scene from a Geocache Location

Avon Dassett is reached, where the Yew Tree offers a pleasantly gastro experience. Previous visits have provided a fine Sunday lunch and unusual beers from Sheffield. Bradfield Brewery, found for the first time. 

Yew Tree - with a solution to problem punters

The route from here to the Burton Dassett hills is as fine as the walking has got on the Centenary Way. Good paths, running through agricultural fields, the distant hum of the M40 traffic, the beacon ahead the prize.  Will I beat the incoming storm?

Incoming

The answer is "Kind Of". I make to Burton Dassett Church just as it gets torrential. There is no external porch but it does have an open door. Time to get ecumenical.

Inside Burton Dassett Church

1685 the oldest memorial.  There may be older.

The storm has blown over by the time I reach the Beacon.

Up high, on the Burton Dassett Hills

No rain from above, but the crops are soaked and plentiful on the return to Fenny Compton.

The Merrie Lion doesnt really look like from a pub from the outside.  Two cottages at right angles knocked together. Inside, its stone floors for a mucky rambler to gain access and enjoy Courage Directors to Cask Marque quality.

The Pride of Fenny

The best stage of the Centenary Way (so far).

Walk Information

Distance - 6 Miles

Geocaches - 2 and an ALC

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10, Stage 11, Stage 12, Stage 13, Stage 14, Stage 15, Stage 16, Stage 17, Stage 18, Stage 19

08/07/23 - Liverpool - A Georgian Quarter Good Beer Guide Pub Crawl

 Another Liverpool Pub Crawl... Another New Favourite?

Third time crawling in Liverpool, after doing the must visits and more recently, Dale Street.

Today, I am in the Georgian Quarter - close to the City Centre, with architecture not totally dissimilar to the part of North London where all the politicians live.

Once again, I end the day impressed with the choices on offer. Every trip seems to generate a new favourite. Maybe its good to share the title around.

The Globe in Cases Street wins that prize for today. I tweet about having learned never to judge a book by its cover and a Roger Protz retweet about being the location of the first CAMRA meeting in Liverpool nearly 50 years ago sends me viral.

Liverpool seems to generate this sort of interation.

Best thing about pub ticking is that quite soon, you stop judging books by their covers.

Another Liverpool gem.

If Untappd still checked into Twitter, you would have a strong clue 🤣 pic.twitter.com/TwRtEIGC5J

— Mappiman (@Mappiman1) July 8, 2023

The clever people who can read backwards pointed out a stronger clue as to my location.

It certainly doesn't look much from the outside.

Old School

Inside, a small front bar around a horseshoe bar, with an almost secret room behind. Wall mounted brewing paraphernalia.Timothy Taylor Boltmaker from a handpull festooned with the Champion Award medal.

I could have stayed all day, listening to the old boys bantering.  

A different, slightly unusual experience at the next tick - the Fly in the Loaf in Hardman Street. Named as such, as the premises are a re-purposed bakery.

Boozing in a Bakery

Judging by the amount of different ways that chips can be "loaded" on the menu, I think this is aiming for the Student demographic. And in July, there are no Students. That's the only explanation I have for why I ended up in such a cavernous venue alone.  I say alone. The barman was here. He looked me up and down and automatically applied a CAMRA discount on my TT Landlord, bringing it to the odd £4.23.

We must have a certain look about us.

Moving on and its The Grapes in Roscoe Street and I find PubsGalore stalwart, Blue Scrumpy's, favourite Liverpool boozer. 

The Grapes is probably still just about my favourite pub in Liverpool. When it's quiet (generally during the afternoon), it's a lovely place to while away a few hours and working your way through the beer selection. When it's busy (evenings), it has a really lively atmosphere and appears to be much favoured by students.

No disagreement from me - I found Utopian ESB on Cask.  

Apparently, they have the best selection of Rum this side of Cuba

ESB - Must stand for Extra Special Beer

Having never found Utopian on cask before, I then find it twice. Final new Tick is The Dispensary in Renshaw Street where I find Extra Pale Ale on hand-pull. It's another standout traditional pub but one with a USP to make its stand out from crowd.

Would say the King of Crisps but I once nearly died a happy death of indigestion on Slabs 

That's it for new pubs - but I know you would be disappointed in me if I didn't.

Landlord. Pork Pie with black pudding. A different landlord.

Storm is coming. I may be trapped.

Send prayers. pic.twitter.com/ryqScb8dxZ

— Mappiman (@Mappiman1) July 8, 2023

54 likes and counting....... I told you people love Liverpool boozers!

08/07/23 - Liverpool - Views old and new

 Spectacular views and old pubs in the City Centre

These are not my words, but the heading from my guide book. I have an afternoon to tick off Good Beer Guide pubs, so sometimes its nice to let someone else do the recommending. Rest assured, I would not have found these two pubs if it wasn't for the walk author.

The theme of this walk is to gain access on high for spectacular views of the City Centre. Like all good plans, it fails first contact with the enemy.

The lifts are broken in Mount Pleasant Multi Story car park. The promised view may have been spectacular but only if you can be bothered to climb up five levels. I cannot. There is always google.

The second vantage point is from St John's Beacon or Radio City Tower, as it's possibly better known. This is a paid for tourist attraction so it seems best to save this for when I have company. 

£7.50 remaining in the beer kitty

The rest of the walk takes me through shopping centres and down to the docks.  Slowly, I am starting to piece the city together.

Down by the Docks

"All the Worlds Futures" on the brick built pimping house

Geocaching always spices up a walk. I learn about the tomb of William McKenzie.

Mappiman's "Believe it or Not"

The Myth would have you believe that Mackenzie, asked to be entombed above ground, inside this pyramid, sitting upright at a table, clutching a winning hand of cards. The yarn insists that as an inveterate gambler, he bet and lost his soul in a game of poker with the Devil and figured that if he was never buried, Satan could never claim his prize.

So the pubs recommended in the guide;

Somehow, the Carnarvon Castle in Tarleton Street survives, sitting as it does in the shopping district and almost swallowed up by huge shops on either side.

Survivor

It is the scene of an 1894 suicide, when Charles Wood walked in, ordered a drink which he took to the back room and then shot himself in the head. No note or explanation. He may have had a Timothy Taylor Boltmaker that was as bad as mine. This is an earthy pub and I was a little concerned about playing my face but honestly, I wouldn't have even poured it on chips.

To be fair, it was swapped with an apology, the pump clip rotated and there was nothing wrong with the substitute Courage Directors.

The day's drinking begins

A wonderful vibe generated by proper scousers, mainly elderly, all taking advantage of an extensive breakfast menu.  No end of toasties and Full English options and my only mistake was not joining in.

I rather like Al's review from Pubsgalore - although he is wrong. I managed to find it.

A nice little pub thankfully overlooked by the pissheads. A thin, narrow pub so can be belly to belly when busy.

Onwards to The Beehive on Mount Pleasant.

No cask, so I played safe with a Guinness. A couple of days later, I check my on line banking.  £2.35.

I think I owe them money.

Look up in the Beehive

Walk Details

Distance - 4 Miles

Geocaches - 2xALC, 1xVirtual and 7xTraditional

Walk Inspiration - Liverpool A-Z City Walks, Walk 3

Previous Liverpool A-Z City Walks - Walks 1 and 2

05/07/23 - Aberaeron for the Cadwgan inn

 A circular coastal walk and a wait for a 2pm opener 

Back to Aberaeron, as we haven't ticked off the Good Beer Guide Entry.

The walk - a classic coastal romp across agricultural hills with a first. A footpath that runs directly through school grounds. A school that must be for young offenders, judging by the fortification. Gates firmly locked and we are told that the footpath re-routes to a lane during school hours.

We should have paid more attention to those signs you see taped to lampposts.

Aberarth to the left, Maesyreglwys to the right - both visited on the walk

Civilisation is met at Aberarth - a collection of houses, a village hall but nothing providing liquid refreshment. We gain access to the coastal path, complete with warnings to stay away from the cliff edge and various landslips. A google of the minimum height definition for cliffs is required. We can't be more than 15ft from the beach.

The Cliffs of Aberarth

Hit the town for 1pm. An hour to wait for good beer. Independent pet shops selling all sorts of things that you wouldn't think to give a dog. Guide dog in training Ivy showed no reticence, taking a chunk out of her yak milk chew before we had paid for it. 

We are on holiday, so it is acceptable to sit outside a pub waiting for the scrape of the bolt. We won't the only ones with a thirst. A local with a pram full of chihuahuas will be our drinking partner today.   

 

2pm Today - and every other day - named after the last ship built in the village

For the second time this week, I will let Quinno's Pubsgalore review summarise things.

I think this is my favourite pub in Aberaeron nowadays, keeps things simple but to a high standard.

A single roomer with nautical nick nacks, a log burner and friendly owners. A first chance to try Tenby Harbwr Sea Horse - an American IPA. 

Inside the Cadwgan

Walk Details

Distance - 5 Miles

Geocaches - 1

Walk Inspiration - 40 Walks in Ceredigion, Walk 16

04/07/23 - Aberporth to Tresaith, where all the Pubs are called the Ship

 A Two Pub Coastal Walk Spectacular

Aberporth rather announces itself from the honesty car park overlooking the beach.

Quite the beach at Aberporth

Again, we will save this till the end, getting in the hard yards of a 5 mile walk by doing the inland section first.  It's all fields - but only one with beasts in - dingly dells and an unexpected art trail.

Finding ceramics cemented onto stone gateposts, natural walls and trees

Possibly the furthest point in land, sea views in the distance.

The OS promises two big blue cups of joy, but you never know what's still running as a business or what will be open at midday on a Tuesday. On the drop down to Tresaith, locals confirm that the Ship Inn is open for business.

What a holiday this is!

Dropping down to Tresaith...

.... for the first of our Ship Inns

After a quick frolic on the dog friendly beach, we head up to see what's potentially for lunch.

We have a saying that the bigger the menu, the worst the food is going to be. A duvet sized laminate, that amazingly has nothing "light-bite" on it.  

All we require is a simple sandwich.

And with no other punters drinking the Brains, I decide that my trust should be limited to Spanish Lout.

Made sense in the Sunshine

Always a bit of a shame when a pub is less that the sum of its parts.

Back to the walking for an easy mile over the headland. Wheelchair accessible paths and some interesting repurposing of train carriages for the ultimate in Insta worthy AirBnB.

Guide Dog in Training Ivy gets a stride on

Nice digs...

Soon back in Aberporth for an extended frolic on that wonderful beach. We almost get Ivy's feet wet in the stream that meets the sea but even after four days at the coast, she is still scared of water.

Onto the 2nd Ship of the day - this one in an equally an envious position and quite the gem.

Ship Inn Number 2 of the Day

Three real ales on and another new local brewery found. I have a feeling that the Mantle Moho, a 4.3% Pale Ale, is going to be the pint of the week.

And a choice of two sandwiches - Steak or Fishfinger.  Its the extra's that bring joy.... a gravy boat of Peppercorn sauce with the steak.

A perfect day.

Wave your spoon in the air if you've ordered sarnies

Walk Details

Distance - 5 Miles

Geocaches - 1

Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine, December 2019, Walk 21