Showing posts with label Julie Royle. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Julie Royle. Show all posts

Wednesday, 26 August 2026

26/08/26 - Pershore Bridges

Meddling Parents

Investigation required for the Part 3 of Travels with Pevsner. Jonathan Meades does a fine job of describing an impressive looking home, but fails to tell the viewer where it is. Thank the lord for Google Image Search, which informs me it is Wyke Manor, Wick.


Pevsner states;

This eminently picturesque large house just NW of the church is in fact entirely an evocation. It has all the motifs of genuine Worcestershire timber-framing and groups them suggestively, It was done in 1923 round a Georgian core.

Wyke Manor, Wick
1923 Wyke Manor, Wick

There's more to the story than Pevsner lets on. The house is privately owned by the Hudsons. During WWI, Aubrey Hudson wanted to marry a young local girl. His parents didn't approve and asked his CO to transfer him away. So they sent him to the front. He lasted two weeks. 

The house contains and is a shrine to him.

My chosen walk appeared in a recent Country Walking Magazine. A figure of 8 loop with the focus point at the Pershore Bridges Picnic area.

Pershore Bridges
20th Century meets 15th Century

The first loop to the hamlet of Pensham. All agricultural fields in the shadow of Bredon Hill.

Pensham Fields
First half walking
Bredon Hill from Pensham
Bredon Hill

Then into Wick, where there is more to discover than just the manor house. A signed, and notice-boarded History Trail tells you all about Viking raids up the Avon and how to build cruck houses.

Wick History Trail
Alas, the FYI Geocaches are lost

Walk Details

Distance - 6.5 miles

Geocaches - 2

Walk Inspiration - Travels with Pevsner and Country Walking Magazine, June 2026, Walk 9



Thursday, 30 July 2026

30/07/26 - Lammas in Halesowen

Early Harvest

I may be two days early for Lammas, but the strange weather makes a mockery of the calendar. All the conditions for a pilgrimage walk seem to have fallen into place. The farmers are already bringing in the harvest, and I find an oak beneath which to eat my ham sandwich. I have neither loaf nor companions to complete the ritual as tradition prescribes.

August brings Lughnasadh (or Lammas), the ancient Celtic festival of the first harvest, celebrated on 1 August. Lammas, from the Old English hlaf-mæsse ("loaf mass"), marks the baking of bread from the new grain and giving thanks for the harvest. This is the time for bread baked from new grain, for gathering berries on hedgerow walks, for songs of John Barleycorn, the spirit of corn who must die so we might live.

Pilgrimage at Lughnasadh is earthy and practical, when you can bring a loaf, break it with your companions beneath an oak, and share it together.

Harvest
Harvest Special

I'm in Halesowen with plenty of plans - a new Adventure Lab Cache, a local walk in Country Walking Magazine and a lunchtime visit to CAMRA's Cider Pub of the Year (Stourbridge and Halesowen Branch).

It's a walk I know reasonably well but there's always something new to discover.

Halesowen Abbey
The remains of Halesowen Abbey - built 1218
Geosites Trail 1
A new waymarked walking trail

I knew that Leasowes Park was a Dudley Geosite but the new trail, with fresh waymarker signs is a bit of a mystery. A Google search and the only reference is an upcoming Ramblers Walk that follows a route from Halesowen to Waseley Hill Visitor Centre. Considering the effort they have gone to on plotting the walk on the ground, they could do with a little more advertising on the route it takes. And saying it is Geotrail 1 suggests more Geotrails are coming. I'll keep my eyes peeled.

Perhaps the most intriguing feature of this walk are the remnants of the Halesowen Branch Line.

Old Hill to Longbridge

The map shows the course of the route from Old Hill to Longbridge, but offers no clues to the engineering feats involved in its construction. Fallen trees forced me into the woodland, where the surviving brick piers can still be found. These once supported a lattice ironwork viaduct that rose 100 feet above the valley floor and stretched for 700 feet. Built in 1883, it lasted just over 80 years before being dismantled in 1965. All that effort, but would it have passed today's health and safety tests? It looks rather delicate!

Dowery Dell
Reclaimed by nature

10 mph speed limit. Unsure if it ran when windy

The route - unusually for this summer, completed in rain - is back to town via Leasowes Park and the disused number 2 canal.

Post walk refreshment has to be Roberto's Bar. For daytime drinkers, this means arriving on a Thursday/Friday or Saturday - when it opens at midday. Come on a Sunday and it opens at 2pm, but selling the most extraordinary looking Bloody Mary's - made in a vat and sold until gone.

No "Breakfast of Champions" on this Thursday afternoon but the electronic menu does demand some attention. Two pages of ciders were expected. About a dozen different meads wasn't. But there was only one choice for me. Not often I see the laughing abbot on draught.

Roberto's Bar, Halesowen
Straffe Hendrick Quad chaser also available


Walk Details

Distance - 8 miles

Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine, April 2026, Walk 12

Geocaches - 10

Previous Celtic Pilgrimages - Imbloc, Spring Equinox, Beltane, Summer Solstice, Lammas

Friday, 3 July 2026

03/07/26 - The Old Royal Library, Malvern

Late, for the Summer Solstice 

This was meant to be walked on 21st June. It was also meant to be walked at sunset. I was meant to light a fire. My first excuse is that I have been busy on the coastal walking. My second excuse is that we have the 1am England Mexico game this weekend. I am not staying/getting up late twice in succession. My third excuse, I would be shot for lighting fires in the tinderbox heatwave we are experiencing.

Summer Solstice: The Longest Day

June brings the great pivot of the year: the Summer Solstice, when the sun seems to pause at its zenith before beginning its slow decline.

It's a festival of fire and light, of fullness and ripeness, of standing still in the very height of things.

Pilgrimage at midsummer has always been drawn to the great circles of Stonehenge, Avebury and Callanish, where sunrise aligns with ancient stones in a drama that has played for millennia. And, of course, in a more contemporary way, Glastonbury Festival, always occurring around Midsummer's Day.

But it can be as simple as walking to the highest hill near you, lighting a small fire, and watching the sun dip late before rising early once again.

For my highest hill, I have picked the County Top of Worcestershire - the Beacon. 

A short but beautiful walk that I know well. Up the 99 steps to St Annes Well, yomp along the spine of the Malverns and then work my way back to town along the western side of the hills. Four locations of an Adventure Lab Cache telling the history of the working donkeys of Malvern, adding to the entertainment.

St Annes Well, Malvern
St Annes Well
Traditional Caching with views
Traditional Caching, with views
Worcestershire Beacon Toposcope
The Toposcope
Worcestershire Beacon Trig Point
Trig Point Bagging

To finish a perfect day, Black Country Ales have opened a new pub, the Old Royal Library. Directly opposite the Unicorn, which has subsequently closed down. The two things may be related, but the Unicorn has survived years opposite a much cheaper (and grander) Wetherspoons. They were used to competition.

The Old Royal Library
New Pub in Town - The Old Royal Library


Everything one would expect from a BCA - the usual decor, cobs, bewildering range of unknown breweries and real cider/perry.

Walk Details

Distance - 5 miles

Walk Inspiration - Julie Royle's Worcestershire Walks Book 2

Geocaches - 6

Previous Celtic Pilgrimages - Imbloc, Spring Equinox, Belatne

Friday, 12 June 2026

12/06/26 - On the Trail of..... Penda's Fen

Play for Today

Always on the lookout for new walking inspiration, I was intrigued when The Dispatch newspaper drew my attention to Penda's Fen. Alan Clarke's 1974 Play for Today—the same director who later made Scum and The Firm—is remarkable for more than just its storyline. In less than ninety minutes it tackles Christianity and paganism, sexuality, nuclear annihilation, working-class identity and the nature of England itself. The hyperlink provides a summary of the plot and its ongoing impact quite nicely.

More extraordinary still, it was broadcast on BBC1 at 9.30pm. At a time when there were only three television channels, the British public effectively had a choice: watch Penda's Fen or go to bed early.


Penda was the seventh-century Mercian ruler remembered as England's last great pagan king. The drama is set in Pinvin, near Pershore - a village whose name in Old English is Penda's Fen - although filming took place in Chaceley, across the River Severn from Tewkesbury in Gloucestershire.

The only walk I have in the area is from an old Country Walking Magazine. This, and some internet-based sleuthing to determine filming locations and a day out for exercise, followed the previous day on the sofa watching the DVD.

I start in the nearby village of Forthampton. In the play, The Vicar visits a parishioner on his death-bed to perform the last rites. I have my first location - an external shot of an impressive house opposite the church.

The last rites were shunned - the dying man happy that he had lived his life on earth

Forthampton Church is "doors open" and I am distracted before taking a step.

Forthampton Church
Forthampton Church
Forthampton Church
A Saxon Devil's Head above the front door - Other treasures include a rare stone altar and medieval pews

I'm off and away. The play's eeriness matched by an unchanged for centuries agricultural landscape, with many ancient dead and dying oaks hosting roosting corvids, which take cacophonous flight as I disturb them on approach. I am aiming for the weir at Upper Lode, with constant views of Tewkesbury Abbey on the opposite side of the River Severn.

Ancient Oaks around Paradise Brook
Dead oaks and Tewkesbury Abbey in the far distance
Upper Lode Weir
The weir at Upper Lode

A long stretch of riverside walking passing a couple of pubs. I am too early for the Lower Lode Hotel and Yew Tree Inn, which marks the return inland. A road leads to Chaceley, the site of many of the filming locations.

The main characters family home at the Old Vicarage

The home of the TV scriptwriter

Chaceley Church features prominently - the main protagonist plays the organ there and during his crisis of faith, has a vision when the floor cracks and a voice is heard imploring "free me". It's "doors open" - with a sign saying to close the door behind otherwise birds will get in. There are already three ravens inside.

Chaceley Church
Chaceley Church
Chaceley Church
Church Organ

Chaceley Church
Another devil's head - in the keystone of the arch

Green lanes take me back to Forthhampton. I've been too early for the pubs found on route and nothing is to be found here. A remote good beer guide tick is available at the Railway Inn, Ripple. A 15-minute drive away.

Walk Details

Distance - 8 miles

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration - The Dispatch Newspaper and Country Walking Magazine, January 1995 Walk 12


Monday, 18 May 2026

18/05/26 - More on the South Staffordshire Railway Walk

The End of Easter

With this walk, I have more or less completed the South Staffordshire Railway. A previous outing conquered the northern half. A very similar walk today completes the southern half.

Starting at a car park where Himley Station used to live, it's obvious the all-terrain path has had some recent work. There are less pot-holes here than on the roads driven to get here.

South Staffs Railway
Easy walking, easy routefinding

For future reference - the café and another car park are at Bratch Lane, where I leave the railway to pick up the Staffordshire-Worcestershire canal. Towpath walking to Awbridge - which may or may not have been designed by James Brindley. 

Awbridge
Awbridge

Whilst on a historical bent, this is my first walk testing out the Hiiker App. It has a function to show your position on a C19th OS map. Today's route passing through the grounds of both a hospital for infectious diseases and a Victorian Workhouse.

Another feature? - an overlay of "live pubs!"

A Trysull revisit - too early for The Bell, but the church is "doors open". Despite it's age - parts of it 1000 years old - there's not too much of interest. The relatively modern stained glass windows and a C13th font compete with human activity for things to investigate. It is the last day of Easter, moving into Pentecost and the altar vestments were being changed from white to red. The things you learn when the pubs are shut.

Dropping down to Trysull
Dropping down to Trysull
Trysull Church
All Saints, Trysull

Countryside providing access to the Canal at the Round Oak, exiting it Botterham Lane, for a return to the car park.

Walk Details

Distance - 7.5 miles

Geocaches - 4

Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine, March 2025, Walk 13


Sunday, 5 April 2026

05/04/26 - The Tipsey Toad, Bromyard

Avenbury Hauntings

The approach into Bromyard brings on PTSD. Over five years since my last visit. You can guess what was going on then. Lockdown #3. I got to look at the handsome black and white timbered pubs but none were open to investigate. 

Nice to look back at the blog. I made do with a delicatessen ram raid and a Baggies victory at the Molineux. Maybe lockdowns weren't so bad. Trump probably ensuring they are coming back in one form or another.

Today's visit was inspired by the Mysteries of Mercia. A book that I need to order at some point, but Hugh, the author, teases with frequent FaceBook posts. Last week, he discussed the ruined church at the abandoned village of Avenbury.


A mooch around the town centre, solving Adventure Lab Caches and looking for post-walk refreshment options and then we are out into the Herefordshire Countryside.

Herefordshire Trail
I took an identical picture 5 years ago

There's a couple of walkers ahead of us. When they stop for coffee we learn that they are working the Herefordshire Trail as a series of day walks. Their wives helping with the logistics by dropping them off/picking them up as required. Mrs M gives me the look to say "don't get any ideas". 

When I get a spare five minutes, I will look into public transport availability.

Looking back over Bromyard
I demand more of the Herefordshire Trail

Through agricultural land, including hop growing trellises before we find the River Frome. Following the banks until we reach Avenbury and its sinister ruins.

St Mary's, Avenbury
Ruins

It's not the ghosts that you need to worry about. The comments on the FaceBook post talked of people living in the churchyard in a makeshift camp. Battling my way through the undergrowth, I found evidence of the camp - loads of rubbish, tarpaulin and a huge water tank. A darting squirrel is the only sign of life, but enough to get the heartbeat raised.

Onwards to Bromyard Downs - always a fine place to walk - before the land attached to Buckenhill Manor.

View from Bromyard Downs
Views from the Bromyard Downs
Buckenhill Manor Tracks
Perfect paths through Buckenhill Manor

Lockdown had me jealous for the pubs I could have visited last time. But how many of them remain actually open? A terraced boozer called the Railway (tied house to Johnson's?) looks in perfect condition, but is doors firmly shut. Bizarrely, it closed in the 1970s but has been perfectly preserved.

Railway Inn, Bromyard
Residential Use now - wonder how many thirsty people look through the windows.

Other disasters? The Hop Pole looks in danger or matched the Avenbury Church in the ruins stakes. The King's Arms in the high street crying out to be rescued. I'll stop there before I get too maudlin.

The Falcon was a strong contender for the Mappiman dollar but in the end, we chose the newest of micros - the Tipsey Toad. A shop conversion next-door to the dead King's Arms - an actual pub. Maybe it costs less to heat.

A fine example of the micropub blueprint, with friendly locals/staff and a comfortably snug experience split over two floors. The slightly underwhelming and obvious choice of HPA or Butty forgiven, as they shared out the mini Easter eggs.

Tipsey Toad, Bromyard
Mrs M already celebrating the "Bischoff with Coffee" win


Walk Details

Distance - 8.75 Miles 

Geocaches - 13

Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine, April 2016, Walk 8


Wednesday, 25 March 2026

25/03/26 - The Bellman's Cross, Shatterford

Spring Equinox, Slightly Delayed

My calendar had the 20th March marked for a pilgrimage walk to celebrate the spring equinox.

By March, light and dark are equal. The Spring Equinox is about a poised tipping-point. Pilgrimage at this time can mirror that balance, walking between two equal poles, whether literally (two hills, two villages) or inwardly, between past and future.

I have plenty of linear walks lined up, so with the March days escaping me it's time to combine hobbies. This route from the latest Country Walking Magazine runs between Kidderminster and the hamlet of Shatterford. Home of the most famous Black Country musician. Led Zeppelin have a number of local locations that I can also use for walking inspiration.

As if by design, my walk ends at Robert Plant's local. When there is a two-hour lunchtime gap between buses. Perfect, but I am getting ahead of myself.

The Wolverhampton canal takes me from Kidderminster and into Wolverley. Home to a hilltop church, two pubs and a nice café.

Wolverhampton Canal, Kidderminster
Leaving Kiddy
The Lock Inn, Wolverley
Potential Pub #1 - The Lock
Wolverley Church
Wolverley Church on the Hill
Queens Head, Wolverley
Potential Pub #2 - The Queen's Head

Some unfortunate, albeit quiet lane walking before arriving at Drakelow - underfoot are the remains of a WWII munitions factory and a Cold War bunker. Some ruined buildings on the ridge, but through the trees makes for pointless photographs.

A climb to Castle Hill - where AI fails to provide much in the way of history - before a change of terrain to walk through the outer reaches of the Wyre Forest at Shatterford/Arley Woods.

Castle Hill
View from Castle Hill
Arley Woods
Shatterford Woods on the ground, Arley Woods on the OS Map

Which brings us to the end and a 90 minute celebration until the 297 bus.

The Bellman's Cross is hosted in a row of terraced cottages. It's a shared location with a restaurant called Dominique's. French A La Carte but with gyros Wednesdays. 

Bellman's Cross, Shatterford
Pub / Restaurant

For a fine dining location, the prices aren't too bad. My gauge - through jealousy at what I cannot afford - is steak. It's £5 cheaper than my local in the Lake District last weekend. This "keen" pricing is reflected in the beer prices. £4.50 for a Bathams, Three Tuns or Enville Ale is acceptable.

Bellman's Cross, Shatterford
All my friends are here

If you go to any of the pubs serving Bathams in Worcestershire enough times, you will eventually stumble upon Mr Plant. So far, I have found him at the bar of Kidderminster's King and Castle and in the beer garden of Bewdley's Waggon and Horses. I like that. A mega-star who is down to earth enough that Bathams in a community pub is a good night out.

Today, I have evidence but no sighting.

Bellman's Cross, Shatterford
With Dominique. And others.

Walk Details

Distance - 7.75 Miles 

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine, Feb 2026, Walk 15

Previous Celtic Pilgrimages - Imbloc