07/09/26 - Worcestershire Cakes and Ales - Stage 2 - British Camp to Upton-upon-Severn

Chasing our sheep, waving a machete, shouting "Meat"

The second stage of the Cakes and Ales book takes me across Castlemorton Common. A name that will be of significance to ravers, hippies and New Age Travellers of a certain age.

Castlemorton Common in Worcestershire became the unlikely epicentre of Britain’s early-1990s free-party movement when an estimated 20,000–40,000 people descended on the common over the late May Bank Holiday in 1992, following the police disruption of the Avon Free Festival. For almost a week, sound systems including Spiral Tribe and DiY provided a huge, largely uncontrolled outdoor rave of techno, acid house and free-party culture. The sheer scale of the event—and the intense media coverage and political alarm it generated—turned Castlemorton into a symbol of a supposedly lawless youth counterculture. It was not the sole cause of the government's subsequent crackdown, but it provided the perfect political pretext: the Criminal Justice and Public Order Act 1994 gave police extensive new powers against unlicensed raves and trespass, most notoriously defining a rave in terms of gatherings of 20 or more people where music was characterised by a “succession of repetitive beats”. The Act also strengthened trespass laws and targeted New Age Travellers, squatters and other forms of protest and direct action.

Last week, I watched a documentary film - Free Party:A Folk History. Ironically, paying a tax dodging, American multinational £4.49 for the pleasure. I am unsure this is what the creators would have wanted. It all came flooding back. The youth tribes that no longer exist or indeed have been replaced by anything new. Whereas we had distinct subcultures - which drugs and repetitive beats brought nicely together - today we have insular, morose kids that if they do go out, it is wearing massive headphones. Lost in both their and to our worlds.

The moral outrage seems rather quaint too. I can remember the nightly news updates. I can remember the politicians and the press in a tizz. And for personal impact, you cannot help but feel sorry for the lady in the above video at 3:15 minutes in. No one wants their livestock bothered by machete wielding carnivores. 

The Walk

The guide book ambitiously demands that you walk 15 miles, including five miles on the ups and downs of the Malvern Hills from Worcester Beacon to British Camp. This needs to be curtailed. A) I have walked it many times and B) there is a hard stop on the last bus home from Upton-on-Severn. A combination of buses and uber gets me to the British Camp Car Park for a compromise.

British Camp reservoir under grey skies

The hills are lost after Hangman's Hill, dropping down to the east and the rave site of the common. Castlemorton village providing a break from the bleak and sheep but even then, little to explore. The doors to the church firmly "doors locked". They may have had trouble in the past from dreadlocked crusties in paratrooper boots.

Barred from St Gregory's

I'll entertain myself with a Tump

The Tump

Flatlands - that saw plenty of Civil War action - through the grounds of Eastington Hall and before long, into Upton-upon-Severn.

Looking back across Castlemorton to the Malverns

There is plenty to admire from this small, yet historically important town. They run many and varied festivals over weekends - with a Country and Western event added in 2026 to the more established folk, blues and pop weekends that took place earlier in the year.

There are enough pubs - 8 - that I have had it down as a potential pub crawl location. This might need addressing - as the Kings Arms and the Star Inn offered no cask ale. 

Ye Olde Anchor Inn - the single Good Beer Guide recommendation - becomes a two pint stop.

Proper Job at the best pub in Upton

Walk Details

Distance - 11 miles

Geocaches - 7

Walk Inspiration - Stage 2 of the Worcester Cakes and Ales Trail

Previous Stages:

Stage 1 - Martley to Malvern

06/05/26 - Worcestershire Cakes and Ales - Stage 1 - Martley to Malvern Link

Kid in a Sweetshop 

It's time to start my next challenge. The Worcestershire Cakes and Ales Trail.

This is a 2009 book, that forms part of a trilogy. Other adventures await in Warwickshire and Shropshire. As the name implies, it's a themed walk - a theme of which 50% I wish to take advantage of.

Stage 1 is a great walk - following the Worcestershire Way from Martley to Malvern. I don't get too many photos, as the terrain is mainly through a high ridge of woodland that eventually joins the big hills of Malvern. Ankerdine Hill to Rounds Hill to the Suckley Hills.

That ridge provides most of today's walking

Which is well waymarked

Views, when there are gaps in the trees

For company, I meet Steve. Steve is following the Worcestershire Way. So am I. We walk together until such points that the path has changed from my 25 year old digital edition of the OS Map to his more recent but printed copy. It becomes kind of embarrassing as we shake hands, say our goodbyes only to meet another mile down the trail.

It's as if God had put Steve on my trail for a reason. Steve is a long-distance walker, Chairman of Herefordshire CAMRA, pub owner and train spotter. As Meatloaf said on the 12" version, three out of four ain't bad. We made friends but in true British style, failed to swap contact details for any future adventures.

That would have been weird, wouldn't it?

As the guidebook suggests, refreshment stops are pointed out. Too early for the Admiral Rodney and the Talbot. The New Inn at Storridge is a dead inn.

But fear not - I have a diversion from the guidebook to tick off three unvisited pubs in the suburbs of North Malvern.

One of them, The Malvern Tavern, is a real surprise. I mean a staggering surprise.

I can smell your anti-climax

Well, look how it was during my Google Maps research.

Formerly, the Cross Keys

For context, the pub is located in a quiet backstreet, not on a public transport route and I cannot imagine it gets much passing through-traffic. You have got to want to go there.

Yet its beer offering is as good as anywhere. Cask options that wouldn't embarrass Black Country Ales. A chill room offering a staggering amount of UK Craft and international Keg. Ciders. A future on-site brewery.

Doesn't even list the cask

The young landlord could tell I was an enthusiast through my excitement at finding Hofbrau Dunkel in the Worcestershire Wilds. A long chat ensued, where I determined his modus operandi is that he can drink bottles at home.

My next visit to Malvern may be just to go on an international pub crawl without leaving my seat.

Of course, the next two pubs won't be able to compete. The Prince of Wales has next to no beer - Guinness, Madri and a smooth-pour. I interrupted the landlord's afternoon TV viewing out of a sense of ticking completeness.

After the Lord Mayor's Show

The Retired Soldier has potential for a revisit. A small, quirky pub trying to hide itself away from the street.

Tucked Away

In the interests of conserving anonymity and not being classed as a "disaster tourist", I will say only two things about the pub.

1) They import cider from a Cornish farm and no one believes the published ABV of 6%

2) There was much crying, much consoling, phone calls to the police and some excellent swearing about someone's conduct who wasn't there.

The two things may have been connected.

Walk Details

Distance - 14.5 Miles

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration - Stage 1 of the Worcester Cakes and Ales Trail

31/03/18 - Warwickshire Cakes and Ales - Alcester to Henley in Arden

Start - Alcester
Finish - Henley in Arden
Distance - 14 Miles
Geocaches - 8
Walk Inspiration - Warwickshire Cakes and Ales Guide Book
Previous Stages - 1) Stratford to Shipston, 2) Stratford to Alcester


Yesterday saw me arrive in Alcester, 14 miles after leaving Stratford.  I battled my way into the Travelodge just as the heavens opened and they didn't stop all night.

This left me with these conditions for day 2 of my hiking training mission.

Bridges are meant to go over water

I'm not going to sugar coat it.  It's grim.

Alcester's night life was explored last night - and that's something worthy of a pubby blog - and I get chance to say my farewells, crossing the River Arrow and grabbing a couple of micro caches.   The ancient houses of Malt Mill Lane, a highlight as always.

Malt Mill Lane

It's a circuitous route along the mudbath that is the Heart of England Way to Coughton Court.  Conditions terrible, views grey.  I know how the beasts of the field feel in the British Springtime.

Heart of England Way

Feeling your pain, my bovine chum

The River Arrow is followed to the Arden Way - which takes me all the way back to Henley.  Its slow going but I meet a couple of pensioner aged gents coming in the other direction.   Taking me for a fellow fool, we get talking about Long Distance Walking.   They are members of the Heart of England Long Distance Walkers Association and try to convince me that walking 100 miles non stop over two days is a thing of beauty.

Talk about picking your moments :-)

I am tempted at some of their other more entry level walks and will have a good look at their event programme.

Snaky River Arrow

Up to the marketing centre at Studley, which is having a major make over that results in footpath diversions but onwards along on the Arden Way.

Legs aching, feet sore - there's been nowhere to stop until I reach Ullenhall after 11 miles.   The last time I was here, it was a dry village with a closed pub but behold, just for me and my failing lower limbs, The Winged Spur is reborn.

Worth a break for hot soup, beer and football.

Winged Spur - Reborn

Purity Pure Gold - No-one wants to see Tomato and Basil Soup

I asked a local at the church if the pub had re-opened and he exclaimed its virtues and popularity.  My comments about wondering why it was closed in the first place were met with two words. 

Enterprise Inns.

Just 30 minutes was enough for me to be suitably refreshed enough to consider putting my waterproofs back on.

I've got little to say about the rest of the walk to Henley.   Apart from the fact it was mercifully short.

So, two days on the trail covering 28 miles as a training mission for a full week of Yorkshire Moors walking has been an experience.  I've had the worst conditions that Spring can throw at me - so equipment and resilience tested to the full.  But has it put me off going?

I've got a week to decide.

30/03/18 - Warwickshire Cakes and Ales - Stratford to Alcester

Start - Stratford-upon-Avon
Finish - Alcester
Distance - 14 Miles
Geocaches - 20
Walk Inspiration - Warwickshire Cakes and Ales Guide Book
Previous Stages - 1) Stratford to Shipston


First day of a two day walk in Warwickshire, following a couple of legs from the Cakes and Ales Guide book from Bob Bibby.

I'm here as a practice run for a week long adventure on the Inn Way to the North Yorkshire Moors.  A plan that has not really been thought through.   I mean, what's going to happen if I don't manage to complete this 2 dayer without freezing to death in the British Spring?  Or drowning?  Or having my slipper like 8 year old Meindl Boots decide to destroy my feet?

Think I have gone a bit far with the foreshadowing.

A twenty minute train ride takes me from Henley in Arden to Stratford on Avon.  Plenty of photo opportunities and a handful of micro caches before I'm getting my stride on.

Stratford - In Black and White

And Glorious Colour

Walking should be easy but slip sliding along mud alongside the river Avon is few people's idea of fun.  Head west and the first civilisation is Wellford on Avon.  Too early for pub one of the day but plenty to admire in the village, with its pretty churches and black and white buildings.

Along the Avon

Bell Inn remains unticked.

The first port of call is a little further along the Avon at Barton.  If I had a pub, I might steal the name and call it the  "Cottage of Content".  Probably draw in more visitors than my original idea of the "Bucket of Blood".

The C&C is an old world rural pub, offering four real ales but importantly having stone floors so that I don't have to perform a one man version of the Full Monty to receive refreshment.

Why's it called the Cottage of Content Mappiman?

Sit in that red chair with a good pint of Hooky and you will know the answer, Blogfans.

Whistlestop, as I am not far from Bidford on Avon.   Research done and the legendary Falcon pub of Shakespearean repute has been a private house for many years.  There are other choices, but the rains are threatening, so I decide to get a bit of distance before the worst of it comes. 

The Three Pub town of Bidford on Avon looking ominous.

It's not too far to the Good Beer Guide listed Broom Tavern.  The listing talks about it being reopened by two experienced chefs and that tells you what you need to know.  I am the only non dining patron.  Its not just the rucksack that makes me stand out.   An average Jumping Jack Flash from the North Cotswold Brewery is taken whilst I compare the chalkboard menu with my chicken cobs taken earlier in the on a damp bench.

The unpubby looking Broom Tavern

The little door to the right in the picture was where I was forced into a wardrobe change.  It;s started raining cats and dogs.  Like a Generation Game challenge gone badly wrong, I manage to get my hardshell coat and over trousers out of the rucksack and on, only annoying a small handful of punters trying to get in or out. 

After a 10 minute herculean effort, it's stopped raining.

So off I rustle, heading North on the Heart of England Way, knowing I will be revisiting these paths in the near future.  Another challenge has me completing monthly circular walks on this LDP.  I'm currently at Meriden.

Pointless Style on the HOEW

The pubs comes thick and fast - Wixford has a choice of two and I choose the overly funky Fish.   It's full of jokey slogans, has a shark over the entrance, is hotter than the sun inside and despite having about 6 hand pulls, offers just a single Wadworth 6X.   Too busy inside, so out I go to the back where the new sport of outdoor Pool has been invented.

Outdoor Pool and a not a bad 6X

Alcester is not far now - just need to climb the only hill of the day to Oversley Castle, slopping through an ever increasing mud fest, using Geocaching as a distraction.   For the first time today, a strange yellow orb briefly appears in the sky but it doesn't last.

Strange celestial phenomenon at Oversley Castle. 

There's no easy way into or out off Alcester's Travelodge but I find a footpath and take my life in my own hands crossing 4 lanes of a bypass to get there.

Looks like a taxi will be required to paint this town red.

But first, I need to get my stuff clean and dry for tomorrow and review foot related injuries.

13/01/18 - Warwickshire Cakes and Ales - Stratford to Shipston

Start - Stratford-upon-Avon
Finish - Shipston-on-Stour
Distance - 16 Miles
Geocaches - 14
Walk Inspiration - Warwickshire Cakes and Ales Guide Book


You know its going to be epic, when your adventure starts on a double decker bus, hurtling along country lanes.  Top deck, front seat.  Shouting, watch out for that bike.  And those trees.

Today's marathon comes from a guide book called "Warwickshire Cakes and Ales".  I have an interest in at least 66% of that title.  It details a 100 mile circular walk around the counties market towns, to be completed over 7 long sections.

This section looks doable with public transport, which is why I find myself waiting with several others for the 9:03 bus 50 to Stratford.  In an unexpected twist, it turns up at 9:03.  My lack of trust in public transport extends as far as having a backup route for today, in case it never materialised at all.

At 9:23 and £5.10 lighter, I am out with the Japanese in the achingly beautiful Stratford-upon-Avon.  Photos at the bridge and of the Royal Shakespeare Company before I head out to find the "Stratford Greenway".

Bus drops me off at the bridge

Touristy shots done

The Stratford Greenway is a disused railway line and provides arrow straight, perfectly flat walking for the first 5 miles of today's walk.  There's a tricky combination of dog walking muggles and several geocaches and not much to break up the monotony, other than a laugh at Dr Who's downgrade.

The Start and a high muggle count

Hopefully a Female Only Tardis

Distant Views to Meon Hill.  I'm off there

I leave the trail at Long Marston and pick up the Heart of England Way/Monarch's Way which takes me cross county to Lower Quinton.  It's midday and the pubs are open but the pub is near the church, about 0.5 miles off piste.  I decide to save myself for Ilmington, trying not to get freaked out by the legends of Meon Hill.

Looks Close but its a telephoto lens

So what's spooky about Meon Hill?  It's the crime scene for Warwickshire's oldest unsolved murder case.  In 1945, Charles Walton was found with his own pitchfork embedded in his throat and the sign of a cross carved into his chest.   This is how you kill a witch, in Warwickshire and there were some parallels to a similar killing in the 1800's.  Plenty of documentaries on YouTube.

View from a Murder Scene

A couple of miles on to the previously unvisited village of Ilmington.  It's a delight of quirky buildings, handsome ancient church and two pubs.  First the Church.

Ilmington Church

With the door unlocked

Medieval Cross

The Red Lion is not on route but the Howard's Arms is.  All looks good, its set amongst a handful of attractive cottages, recommended by Sawdays Special Places and its own sign boasts "Great Food, fine ales". 

First Pub Stop

Four real ales on but I must have made the wrong selection.  My Landlord was hazy, vinegary and had tiny bits of gunk floating in the head.  I would have complained but they had jovially topped up my water supply and if I'm being truthful, I couldn't be arsed to pull myself out of the fine Chesterfield I was tempted to take a nap in.

Looked better here than it tasted

But move on, I must, with another couple of hours to walk.   Fine views over Ilmington (I will come back to try the Red Lion), a long trudge over fields and about 1.5 miles along the A429, fortunately footpathed.

The Shipton-on-Stour Sign is a sight for sore legs.

Looking Back over Ilmington

Nearly Back

My visit to Shipston is another first.  An appealing market town, seemingly specialising in Country Outfitting shops where all colours are available as long as you like green tweed.   There is a clock shop that has an external timepiece proclaiming "Remember, time lost cannot be regained".

Its two hours out.

There's four or five pubs (Falcon looks closed) available for the post walk analysis.  I wander around each off them.  The Horseshoe Inn looks ramshackly authentic.  The George Townhouse is Cask Marque but far too posh.   Eventually, a man who has seen my aimless wandering asks if he can help.  I tell him I cannot make up my mind on which pub is best and he tells me with some conviction its the White Bear.

It's a Donnington Ales house - which means delightful pub architecture but lot's of negative reviews from beer bloggers.   I have to say, the Cotswold Gold was a perfect pint.  No complaints for me.  I'll be trying Arkells next.

Four PM at the Clock Shop

After much deliberation, its the White Bear

The Donnington Range

A most enjoyable ramble and 2018 may see me have a go at some of the other sections, provided I can get the Public Transport to work as well.