30/03/24 - Chiltern Chain Walk - Stage 19 - Exlade Street

 Woodland walking for a Gastropub with poor quality control

An 11 mile romp through South Oxfordshire, almost entirely in woodland. Pleasant enough at the time, but hardly providing interest for a blog. It's the penultimate stage of the Chiltern Chain Walk, so recorded for my own completeness only.

I start in Exlade Street. To provide an indication of scale, the Wikipedia page describes it as a hamlet that was significantly reduced in size when two house burned down. There is a pub, the Highwayman, that I make payment for use of their car park through post walk refreshment.

Looks like the Highwayman has already been on the rob

Soon into woodland, where I remain for day. Blair Witch vibes, with very few encounters with sentient life of any kind.

Today's Vista

Soon back at Stage 18's Stoke Row. Brakspear beers not enticing enough to convince me to revisit the Cheery Tree but walking further along the row, I take a pause at today's only item of interest. The Maharajah's Well - dug by two men to a depth of twice that of Nelson's Column over a year. In an act of international charity setting a precedent for Idi Amin's aid the winter of disconnect, paid for by an act of charity by Indian aristocracy in 1864.

The Canopy

In a blog of few highlights, I bring you a guilded elephant

Surprisingly, I turn down a visit to the Black Horse in Checkendon. Not necessarily because Whatpub states that the beer is on gravity dispense. More because I was excited at the trail of a number of mystery caches that I had quickly solved before heading down.

Back to the Highwayman - car park now full and people have to work hard to get here, so it must have something to offer punters.

C17th Original

Its a gastropub that doesn't do the sandwich that I am after. Instead, I can order off the nibbles section. Alas, they have sold out of £8.25 scotch eggs. Some would say that this is saving me from myself, but having been resigned to ordering mini chedders, I was upsold to Dick Turpin Loaded Fries.

Cue jokes that at least Dick wore a mask.

Beerwise, its nice to see some Locale Ales....  Marlow Rebellion bringing back fond memories of the Northern sections of the London Countryway walk. Renegade Good Old Boy was chosen.

Lifting to my nose was all I needed to tell me it was off. Leading to the frisson of sending it back and counter arguing a defence for "Its meant to smell like that".

Initial relief that it was instantly declared end of the barrel, leading me to be rather annoyed they tried to palm it off on me in the first place.

The replacement, after a barrel change

Walk Information

Distance - 11 Miles

Geocaches - 12 

Walk Inspiration

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10, Stage 11, Stage 12, Stage 13, Stage 14, Stage 15, Stage 16, Stage 17, Stage 18

29/03/24 - Birmingham CAMRA Pub Trails - City Centre (Part 2)

 Not the Usual Suspects

Birmingham CAMRA are doing a fine job of promoting their area's pubs. A series of "Pub Trails" in the City Centre and suburbs published on-line.

No one could accuse them of picking the obvious in their City Centre Part 2 trail of 5 pubs.

From many years of pub ticking experience, I find it best practice to avoid any pub with Railway in its name.

The Railway

Quite why CAMRA would recommend this pub must be lost in the annals of time. Pubsgalore reviewers summarising why I've never previously ventured in.

I've always walked past this pub thinking what a dive it looked. It looks as if it might be dark and depressing inside, with lots of lager swilling yobs. The number of smokers hanging around outside the doors does not help with first impressions.

A cavern of a place, with TV Screen aplenty. Two cask on and my Purity Mad Goose was better than expected. Would I return? Well, you can see the New Street Wetherspoons through the window and there is a cost of living crisis.

Cherry Reds is far more like it. Has it really been open for 14 years now? This has been a Good Beer Guide regular for several years and there is something for everyone. Interesting International beers, fridges full of craft cans and local keg and cask. If beer is not your thing, there is cake. If cake is not your thing, they host regular comedy nights and live music upstairs.

I only wish I either lived closer or in a country with a functioning night time public transport system. The last train home well before the acts would finish.

Springtime Kolsch

Despite living near Birmingham all my life, I had never even heard of Keg and Grill.  Finding it is not as easy as you would expect. A clue from etched windows, but where exactly is the front door?

Its in there, somewhere

A City Centre Desi pub - the onion bhaji's are priced £8.95 on the menu but in an interesting twist, retail at £4.95.  

The details on the trail page do not correlate with reality - wheras a pub conversion is described, this looks like a conferance centre. As the only punter, the very friendly bar-man tells me how they recently moved and used to be on the other side of the queensway. Hopefully, their regulars are aware of this. There's going to be little footfall here, and any potential customers have a lot of competition around the corner.

    

In the interest of trying something new - a Bombay Bicycle IPA

The bhaji's are excellent - a meal on their own - and fortify me for the uphill walk to The Craven Arms. A must visit Black Country Ales pub, that manages to stand isolated in the face of regeneration. 

Hanging on to Tradition

BCA are running their annual pub ticking promotion at the moment. A free sweatshirt for visiting any 25 of their 51 (!) pubs across the Midlands. From Herefordshire to Leicestershire. Variety, you won't achieve. But decent cobs, fine beer from breweries you're unlikely to have heard of and busy houses, you will find. The demand for tradition is there and BCAs simple formula works.

How pubs should look

A theatrical finish to the day at the Victoria. Aptly enough, a C19th Victorian corner boozer, with a distinctive exterior and plush interior. A longer cocktail menu than cask offerings, as I return to where I started with a half of Mad Goose. Stuffed into a Wye Valley Nightjar glass.

A Theatre Pub in Birmingham

Mad Goose in a Night Jar

Not the usual suspects for a Birmingham Pub Crawl.  Those are recommended in this one day to be completed trail. 

29/03/24 - From St Andrews to Villa Park

 A Second City Football Derby Walk

This appeals to my love of psychogeography. A seemingly pointless walk to unearth football rivalry.

From the crumbling St Andrews to the aristocratic Villa Park, housed in the grounds of a stately manor home. Blues - seemingly always suffixed with an away goal in the 90 (+3) minute. The Vile who won the European league in 1982 with just 14 players. But they don't like to talk about that.

The big question - how many Peaky Blinder effigys will be found?

The Fewer the Better

The Number 17 bus drops me off outside the Blues, where my Adventure Lab Caching of the sporting grounds of Birmingham is stopped by an official, resplendent in club tie. He is warning me for my own safety, as I am directly under the cherry picker that is adding the banner "Knighthead Park @" to new "St Andrews" text.

Shilen Patel best not be thinking of rebranding the Hawthorns. So far, he hasn't put a foot wrong.

An explanation of my nefarious activities and he helps me find the answer. Harry Hibbs playing in goal in a 1931 FA Cup final loss to the Baggies. Already, I know its going to be a good day.

Retire the shirt number - no, not Trevor's, the other lads

I would have brought you a photo of the Garrison Pub - long closed and near derelict on my last visit. The inspiration for the Peaky Blinders pub. Even Birmingham is joining in with gentrification. It's been sanitised and cleaned up to a point of boredom. Presumably opening soon, allowing the square eyed to have their photo taken next to a life sized cut out of Arthur, holding a pint.

Instead, I bring another dead pub. Surely the Woodman will re-open to serve London Commuters who have perhaps saved 20 minutes off their 2047 journey. Drowning their sorrows, as AI will have already taken their jobs.

Curzon Street Station - the former rail gateway to the 2nd City

A trip down memory lane next. I haven't been through Aston University grounds since I was of student age myself. There were two pubs - The Sack of Potatoes and the Pot of Beer and a small independent cinema, the Triangle, which was the only place in the West Midlands showing Reservoir Dogs.  And Man Bites Dog.

The Cinema has long gone but the pubs remain. Bank Holiday, midday and I am the only punter in both.

The more traditional Sacks of Potatoes

In solidarity with students, I paid for my half an HPA with a cheque

Pot of Beer - rebranded as Gosta Green - still a fun pub

The Birmingham/Fazeley Canal provides an arrow straight route to Aston. Half arsed attempts at protecting pedestrians from a collapsing wall with a builders fence is simply pushed aside by the residents who can conduct their own health and safety assessment.

All Birmingham Walks have a canal stretch.  Its the law.

With every day a school day, I find the 1635 Jacobean stately home, where Aston Villa have made their home. A business school now. Unexpectedly, the grounds appear to be open and free to wander - although there is an unmanned gatehouse and cafe. I half expect to chased for entry fees.

Cultured Aston

Holte Enders in the Sky

All that remains is to catch the number 7 back to town. Where a CAMRA endorsed pub crawl awaits.

Walk Details

Distance - 5 Miles

Walk Inspiration - AZ - Hidden Walks in Birmingham Walk 5

Previous Birmingham AZ Walks - Walk 1 & 2, Walk 3, Walk 4, Walk 5

Pubs - 2

25/03/24 - Things to do in San Sebastian

 (Briefly) What we did on our Holidays.....

San Sebastián, also known as Donostia in the Basque language, is a charming coastal city nestled in the Basque Country region of Spain. Renowned for its breathtaking beaches, world-class cuisine, and rich cultural heritage, San Sebastián attracts visitors from around the globe.

The city is perhaps best known for its stunning La Concha Beach, a crescent-shaped stretch of golden sand framed by scenic promenades and lush green hills. This beach offers not only opportunities for sunbathing and swimming but also picturesque views of the surrounding bay and the iconic island of Santa Clara.

In addition to its natural beauty, San Sebastián boasts a thriving culinary scene, earning it the reputation as a food lover's paradise. The city is home to numerous Michelin-starred restaurants, traditional pintxo bars, and bustling markets where visitors can sample an array of delectable Basque specialties, including pintxos (small, flavorful snacks) and fresh seafood.

That's the AI Summary of our latest getaway. Here's what we got up to;

SIGHTSEEING

The coach from Bilbao airport drops you off at the River in the New Town, where its a short walk into the pedestrianised old town. A promenade offers a 3 mile there and back walk with the beautiful people. And their dogs. A funicular railway at the far Western end offers access to an unexpected fun-fair and the best views of the bay.

View from the Monte Igeldo fun-fair

EATING

A gastronomic hot-spot, the choices of dining out fall into two camps - the chaos of the Pintxos bars, or more fancy restaurants - where the best dishes are usually preceded by an animal that was suckling.

Pintxos bars - imagine going on a pub crawl and having a different savoury snack at each location. For the English, think Black Sheep with a sausage roll at the Red Lion, followed by cheese and onion crisps with a pickled egg at the Kings Arms.

It's a scrum to get into most of these tiny bars and the menus are tricky to decipher. Spanglish will only help you so far. See Photo 2;

My first order - Two Beers, and Pintxos of the landlady's choice. Which never came.

You can't really go wrong in choosing which bar - but we tried Borda Berri, Bar Sport, Txepetxa Taberna and attempted to get into Bar Nestor on at least three occasions.

Bar Hanging for Squid at Txepetxa Taberna

DRINKING

Obviously, this can be completed at the Pintxos bars but a quick google showed a couple of Craft Bars.

Akerbeltz is located on the Western Edge of the old town and having fine views of the bay.  Loads of outside seating, served by a tiny bar with an extensive menu. The top 6 menu items are keg, with the rest in can. Various IPAs chosen over the week - testing WCIPA against DIPAs and HIPAs. The last one a new one on me but I should have guessed "Hazy"

On the Basqueland Murk

For something more traditional - Monpas - at the opposite side of town was found at the end of our best walk.  Four Belgian beers on keg including Chouffe, Gulden Draak and Kwak.

No Shoe Deposit required

WALKING

I expected there to be City Walks - and there was.  A there and back along the prom is mandatory.  As is psychogeography in the narrow streets of the old town, followed by a climb to Motako Gaztelua castle for the views.

Downloading a few routes from Komoot proved a major success. It pointed us to a 7 mile walk up Monte Ulia at the Eastern End of the town. This was wild walking on good paths and thankfully, the mapping through the app was excellent. I could bring photos off the cliffs and sea views but you know the score.  Instead, a pointer to future Mappiman for well documented walks that could be available abroad;

Labelled Paths

GR 121 and GR 287 transpired to be Long Distance Paths but SL-GI 33 was more interesting.  A simple 5 mile circular walk that was very close to our planned walk and would have been discovered if I had completed more research.  

Next holiday - look out for similar SL-GI Walks.

17/03/24 - Centenary Way - Stage 25 - Ilmington

 Ian McCulloch Was Here

Penultimate Stage of the Centenary Way. The drive in shows us what to expect. From the water running in streams down the lanes and some giant puddles, it would appear we have had another overnight monsoon.

Mrs M cursing as to whether a Sunday Lunch is worth the muddy sheep fields of Ilmington. We actually feel sorry for the sheep..... can they catch trench foot?

The walk is as dull as the Centenary Way can deliver.... fields to Blackwell and then Darlingscott. We choose the lanes on the way back, in desperate hope to save our trousers.

There must be something to report...... Well, we are just into the Cotswolds AONB and Ilmington is a pretty honey stone village, the highest in Warwickshire.

Centenary Way enters the Cotswolds

Its made of three streets - Back and Front surrounding the pedestrian only Middle - where you can see why the location is used for film. Manor House, the vicarage, a "fairy hole" and the church all located next to the ancient fish ponds.

View of the Medieval Cross from the Church Porch

Surprisingly for a small village, there are two trading pubs. The Howard Arms was chosen on my last visit. A gastropub servicing dodgy pints of TT Landlord leaves me in no mood to find out what you do get for a £26 Sunday Lunch.

Instead, we book for the Red Lion.

A more traditional Hook Norton House

Possibly more spartan than I was expecting. The Sunday Lunch is a "bargain" £22 here. Dining in either the front or rear bar - both with roaring open fires. Impressive quality, quantity and service.

Other punters match the 4 cask on offer but with Guinness patronage in full force for St Patrick's day, I am the only one on Old Hooky. Again, this exceeded expectations caused by worry of lack of turnover. 

Inside the Red Lion, Ilmington

The twitter jury is still out on the artwork - but the perspex cover makes me think its legit. Part of me needs to know how the lead singer of Echo of the Bunnymen ended up here.

I am sure it wasn't for the Centenary Way.

It has a perspex cover, so maybe @OfficialIanMac did enjoy an old Hooky at the Red Lion, Ilmington, Warwickshire 🤔 pic.twitter.com/55q0Ffg5qL

— Mappiman (@Mappiman1) March 17, 2024

Walk Details

Distance - 5.5 Miles

Geocaches - 2

Pub - The Red Lion, Ilmington

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10, Stage 11, Stage 12, Stage 13, Stage 14, Stage 15, Stage 16, Stage 17, Stage 18, Stage 19, Stage 20, Stage 21, Stage 22, Stage 23, Stage 24

09/03/24 - The Liverpool Waterfront and some Good Beer Guide Ticking

 Falling back in love with Geocaching, always loving the Merseyside Pubs

Third recent visit to Liverpool, wondering what pubby delights will be revealed. Eventually, I'm going to have to run out of previously undiscovered gems, but not today, the City delivers again.

My walk is straightforward and treads on ground previously skirted. After City deviations to find the last Adventure Lab Caches, I reach the Waterfront at the Royal Liver Buildings.

Landmark 1

This is my walking view for most of the day

There is a high volume of Geocaches along the stretch down to Toxteth. I kind of expected a lot of micros attached to signs, but the fun factor is significantly higher. Most made me smile, none more than the one that required a magnetic extendable baton to retrieve a "dog from its kennel".  

Spice up a walk by treasure hunting

Or look at the view - the Cathedral looming behind South Queens Dock

The walking adventure ends at Brunswick Station. An arrow straight route back to the City and the first pub of the day.

My last visit to the Baltic Fleet was at night - nicely packed, with an amateur group singing sea shanties. I mentioned this to the bar staff, who were too young to even know what a sea shanty was. Helpfully, the one other lunchtime punter piped up to say that nautically based sing songs hadn't happened for at least the last five years.

A relatively new brew from Neptune, mine the 46th Untappd Check in of a Scottish Bitter called Firth and rather murkier than other's photos.

A chance to explore internally, but the best photo's from outside.

A Survivor - view from a Geocaching GZ opposite

Ship Ahoy - Its the Baltic Fleet

Next up - The Bridewell. Most cities have their unique pubs and drinking in the former cells of a Police Station may make this Liverpools. Each cell, a little booth with a TV screen and of course, occupied. Everton were losing to Man Utd.

No sign of the Taxi rank

Deya's Steady Rolling Man taken outside - to presumably, the world's smallest jail exercise area.

Good Beer Guide Pub of the Year in 2022 and 2023 and certainly one for the beer tourist (like myself).

My Pub of today is the Red Lion in Slater Street but I've been hoodwinked. Fool me once, outside offered culinary delights, such as "Pies and Cheese". My "are you doing food?" inquiry met with a more prosaic "Crisps and Nuts".

New A Board required

Fool me twice - this has only been a pub for two years. Converted from a terraced town house but haven't they done a fine job!

Timothy Taylor Landlord in fine condition

A corporate choice next and from a value perspective, I make the wrong decision. The 'Spoons Lime Kiln has passed in preference for the Head of Steam. Staff that couldn't help make me make my decision by offering no advice to their extensive menu. A complete a full circuit of the central bar before settling on a Brew York Lupu Lion pale ale.

I could have been in any City

I missed out on the Window facing Chesterfields by seconds. No doubt, my enjoyment would have been enhanced by viewing the mayhem of a Liverpool afternoon from behind the safety of glass?

Is there a City that can get anywhere close for all day boozing? The cocktail bars have the velvet ropes up by 2pm, with orderly queues forming for what my daughter described as "bottomless brunches". Stag Do's of Umpalumpas. Hen Do's of rodeo riding cowgirls. Live music pumping from all of the Irish Bars. 

My return train is at 4:30pm.

I can only imagine what the City is like when darkness falls.  

Walk Details

Distance - 6.5 Miles

Geocaches - 20

Walk Inspiration - Liverpool A-Z City Walks, Walk 4

Previous Liverpool A-Z City Walks - Walks 1 and 2, Walk 3

03/04/24 - Father Ted Geocaching from the Lion Inn, Trellech

 The first of 2024's goals ticked off

You may think a single Geocaching round is unworthy to be on a goal-list that includes other challenges such as achieve 1050 Good Beer Guide Ticks and walk 1000 miles. But there is more to this than meets the eye.

The 25 caches presented are "Mystery Caches" that require solving.  Here's an example;

So, that's 25 episodes of Father Ted that needed to be watched to get the clues.

As one of the best comedies of all time, this was no hardship. Although sobering to see that I now have nine years on Dermot Morgan unlucky innings.

Over a couple of months, all the information was gathered. A spare Sunday earmarked to head down to Trellech, South Wales, with no consideration to the conditions.

Oh no.... the Geocacher's Nemesis.

Snow in South Wales

Mrs M tag's along. 7 miles of Tupperware hunting in the woods is not her idea of fun, but a Sunday Lunch out is promised. She's under the strict instructions not to moan, which she is keen to remind me off when I kick off. Digging boxes out of snow and ice - when you are lucky enough to spot the Geocaching hint - is not necessarily conducive to a happy day out.

So we give up, and concentrate on a fine walk. Trellech Common more a forest than my definition of common land, but fine tracks under blue skies.  Where's that meme of Kolo Toure saying "there is no need to be upset"?

.

Caches in them, thar woods.... usually under stumps.

Onto the village - and the pub.

Trellech - a fascinating village filled with history from the ancients to the Normans. I've visited twice before and been subject to the panel of dubious ticks, as both times the Lion Inn has been closed.

Not today, we have a table booked in this Good Beer Guide stalwart.

Fitting Finale

It's popular, packed and thankfully with more than enough staff running around providing quick service. A two roomer, with roaring fire in each and the Sunday lunch was perfect.  Its always going to score highly when cauliflower cheese is part of the base deal and not a five pound surcharge.

Walk Details

Distance - 7 Miles

Geoaches - 25 available, 11 found.  Blame the Snow

First Cache

02/03/24 - The Slow Way to the Shrubbery Cottage, Stourbridge

 The 2024 Challenge?  Walks from Holden's Pubs

Having walked from all the Bathams Pubs, I might as well repeat the challenge with their Black Country Rival, Holdens. I make it 19 tied pubs in their estate, but I am sure this will fluctuate.

Holden's Brewery, a family-run establishment since 1915, brews traditional Black Country real ales in the heart of England. Located in Woodsetton, West Midlands, they are known for their commitment to local ingredients and time-tested methods. Their core offerings include Black Country Bitter, Black Country Special Bitter, Black Country Mild, Golden Glow, a stout, and a winter warmer.

I'm going to hit the closest to home, the Shrubbery Cottage. I can use Slow Ways to find an urban route from exactly where I left off last time, Roberto's Bar, Halesowen.

Its past the midday opening detailed on Google Maps but when the Number 9 bus drops me off practically outside the front door, I find it barrier closed. Roberto is quick on his social media, letting me know that Cia is having bus trouble and it will open soon. True enough, I get to see the magic of a micro opening for business, whilst taking on a keg Kernal Bitter Simmonds 1880.

Onto the walk. Once the mid-rise flats of Halesowen are navigated, this a fine rural walk along the bridle paths of Lutley and Foxcote.

Crossing the Lutley Gutter

The Clent Hills from a Lutley Bridle Path

Stevens Park welcomes me into Stourbridge. A meander, as the stages of an Adventure Lab Cache are collected.

Park Life

Onwards to the Shrubbery Cottage. A simple local's local where there are questions that need to be resolved. Will there be cobs? How hard will the scratchings be? How old is too old to visit a pub wearing in-line roller skates?

Answers - Yes, Hard (and Hairy) and "Don't Know" but 35 is too old, especially when you need to keep getting up for a smoke.

Need to work on my pub photos

I'm always special

The walk back to Stourbridge Junction had to be via the Severn Stars. Black Country Ales can wait for their themed walk series before blogging.

Walk Details

Distance - 5 Miles

Geocaches - 2 and an ALC

Pubs - 3

Walk Inspiration - Slow Ways

Previous Slows Ways - Birmingham to Blackheath, Blackheath to Halesowen