26/03/23 - Good Beer Guide Ticking - Bristol Harbour

Good Beer Guide Pubs - #807 to #811

Previous Bristol Pub Crawls - City Centre 1, City Centre 2

Discovering Bristol's Good Beer Guide Pubs around the floating harbour

Although I can never see myself ticking every pub in any one year of the Bible, I would settle on finishing Bristol. This is my third visit in the 2020's and although steady progress is being made, there's lots more to do.

A Geocaching trail meant I was completing a full circuit of the floating harbour (had to google, ensures the tidal River Avon maintains a constant height). And of course, the waterside is where the good pubs are - luring in thirsty sailors and the carnival that follows through the centuries.

First of the day - and it's unique for me - actually on the water. My untappd check in elicits several replies - I need to also go to Peterborough and Grimsby. The Grain Barge belongs to the Bristol Beer Factory although the friendly bar staff seemed unaware that they were in the book. Maybe some work to do on their marketing? To be fair, tickers would come regardless of advertising. Great views of river life, SS Great Britain in particular. The Independence was beer of the day. Found again later on the crawl, for confirmation.

All aboard the Grain Barge

Bristol Beer Factory Independence - Gorgeous 

All to nearby is the Merchants Arms. The other side of a road that busy, you could describe it as "motorway". Thankfully, a pedestrian crossing allows for safe passage.

This is a small but perfectly formed traditional pub, with an even split of punters - you either had a child in a pushchair or men transfixed by Bath vs Exeter egg-chasing on the TV. 

A specialist in South West Ales, I made a tit of myself by requesting a Cheddar Ales George Best.

Safely across

Pub Life - The beer was, of course, Gorge Best

South side, onto the Spike Island that is nothing to do with the Stone Roses. The Orchard Inn provided a clue with it's name. The real ales are gravity fed on a back wall, but the chalk board is full of 20 ciders and perries. I should have experimented but 6%-ers would put the geocaching in jeopardy. Another fine, traditional pub. Another BBF Independence. 

Cider aplenty in the Orchard Inn

I timed entrance into the Golden Guinea perfectly. Shortly after ordering an Arbor Ales Shangri-La, the footfall increased significantly, when 30 sombrero wearing moustachioed pretend Mexicans came in. They weren't my sort of people when they didn't laugh at my "Tequila's all round" joke. I was reminded of my first tick in Bristol. The Bag O'Nails had a handwritten sign that simply said "No Idiot Stag Parties". 

I liked the wall-paper. I liked the chesterfield chairs. I liked the full size comedy venue downstairs.

View from a Chesterfield

Boak and Bailey, experts in all things pub and Bristol, have recently been extolling the virtues of the Kings Head. Not in the Good Beer Guide, but I could have brought you a report as to why its not the "Whitelocks of the South". It was that crammed, I couldn't even get to open the door.

So onto the main reason I came back to Bristol. The Llandoger Trow. Who wouldn't want to visit a pub with its own wiki page? A striking, gabled timber box frame building from 1664 that has been extended through acquisition and reduced through the Luftwaffe. It shares an outside area of King Street with the Old Duke opposite, bringing a Continental drinking experience on the outside benches. But there are floors and floors of interior to explore too. I found ancient fire places, nooks and crannies and occasionally, whole rooms big enough for banquets that I could have to myself

Llandoger Trow at night

They bring Bristolians beers from all around the world.  27 (!) keg lines, with the finest Bavarian,  Czech and Cheltenham wares available to man. But there are also 3 cask hand-pulls. And one of those was TT Landlord.

Staring at the chalk board was futile. Old familiar, it was. Paint me boring.

Till next time, Bristol!

26/03/23 - The Anchor, Oldbury on Severn

 Pub Manifesto - A comedian stands up for pubs

Inspiration for today's walk came from a book. In 2018, Comedian James Dowdeswell lamented the decline of pubs, which were then closing at a rate of 18 a day. I cannot help but think we will be looking back on these times as the golden age. (Much) worse was to follow.

Inspiration for a walk

Using George Orwell's essay "the moon under water" he lists what he thinks makes a modern pub. His qualification?  His father is a publican and the book is a love letter to him. Michael Dowdeswell name is still above the door and in many ways, he seemed a visionary. Running a freehouse, so he would have control on the beers sold. From the signage, I would say he is a Bass fan. He also launched a range of whiskies from Gloucestershire - Sheep Dip and Pig's Nose. I saw no evidence of these for sale, but his son's beer - Lazy IPA - was spotted in cans behind the bar.

An entertaining read, emphasising the importance of the Local. Even one as remote as this has its stories. Steven Spielberg had a film idea pitched to him here. The inventor of Dr Who's K9 was a regular. 

Freehouse championing the Bass

The walk was a simple affair, head down Oldbury Pill to the Severn Estuary. Clamber up on the earth banks for an arrow straight walk downriver. Views of the Severn Bridge ahead, Oldbury power station behind.

Heading down to Severn Bridge

Rushden Lane takes me in-land through Littleton-upon-Severn. A small village that still has its pub, the White Hart. Unusually for this area, a Youngs house.

A muddy slop-fest through the fields to Cowhill, with Oldbury's Church the beacon. Standing proudly on a rare bit of raised ground.

Back into Oldbury-on-Severn

Post walk refreshment at the Anchor.... a decent selection of local ales and the last free table for a Sunday Lunch.  Like the full English, its the unexpected little extras that delight.  

Roast parsnips and cauliflower cheese. 

I went top right.  It must have been the external advertising

Walk Details

Walk Inspiration - 100 Walks in Somerset and Avon, Walk 81

Distance - 5.5 Miles

Geocaches - 6

22/03/23 - The Camp House Inn, Grimley

 A riverside walk from an isolated and unchanged country pub

No one is going to stumble upon the Camp House Inn by mistake. Unless, maybe, they are in a kayak. It's located at the end of a dead end lane, worryingly close to the river.

A Camra Heritage Pub

In it's splendid isolation, the boozer remains unchanged for decades. As do the landlords. 50+ years service from the current incumbents. The barstaff who served me had herself been coming here for 51 years. 

Prone to regular (and increasing) flooding events, it makes you wonder for its long term future. Who else would take on a business, under such a risk?  An ominous skip full of furnishings may have been the result of January's latest flooding. The house next door, seemingly abandoned to it's watery fate. The other pub in the village, the historic Wagon Wheel, turned to houses when their patrons retired.

Just make out the height of the flood on the plaques on the LHS of the fire place.

As you'd expect from the photos, its a rambling, multi roomed former farmhouse.  Getting to the bar is a challenge for the uninitiated. Through two doors, ignore the one marked "private" and double back on yourself to find a small serving. Wander further for tiny alcoves with river views and the large room detailed in the photo above.

Wednesday spring evening, so maybe four other punters. This leads to questions of how they can justify three similar real ales on. Turnover is likely to be limited. I would have settled for any one of the Butty Bach, HPA and Exmoor Ale on offer, having more confidence of its freshness if it was the only choice.

The walk - a river-side (near) figure of 8 ramble, with the pub at the apex. The truly thirsty and chauffeured could get away with a pint at the start, the middle and the end. I found the route in CAMRA Pint Taken magazine, whilst re-investigating the Good Beer Guide Pubs of Kidderminster. One adventure providing inspiration for another.

Pint Taken

Historically, the stretch of the River Severn was home to the Grimley Lido. In the summer time, a stretch of the riverbank was turned over to sunbathers and swimmers. Conflicting reports as to whether it was WWII or the health and safety concerns of river swimming in the 70s that put an end to the commercial enterprise. The "beach" now long overgrown and some debate amongst the locals as to where exactly it was.

The River Severn "near" the Grimley Lido

Other items of interest - Grimley's Norman sandstone church is bolted, limiting external investigations only.

Grimley Church

And when you finish the walk, the pub peacocks may put on a show for you.

One of 3, but the only one showing off

Walk Details

Distance - 5 Miles

Geocaches - 1

Walk Inspiration - CAMRA Pint Taken Magazine Winter 2022/2023

18/03/23 - January Man - March on the West Mendip Way to Wells, Somerset

 

Walking the chapters of Christopher Somerville's The January Man, Month by Month

March's chapter throws up its first surprise. Three walking areas are detailed but I decide to ignore Worcestershire and Yorkshire and stick with the opening location, Somerset. The theme is new beginnings and birth, with more text dedicated to lambing in Nidderdale than to mating toads along the A371.

In Somerset, Somerville is scaling the heights of the Mendip hills, walking through the woodland of Stoke Woods Conservancy from Rodney Stoke. It doesn't take me long to plot a suitable route and it's my favourite type. Linear, using public transport to make the return.

All things are planned. I'll park at the Rodney Stoke in, walk 10 or so miles on the West Mendip Way and return on the 126 at 13:55 to pay for the parking through a lunch purchase. The landlord is even coming out of the pub at 8:50am for me to explain this plan to him as I pull up in the car park. His response? I'm welcome to park, but the pub is closed for a refit until April.

Rodney Stoke Inn

My path to the Mendips is Hill Lane - which lives up to its name in its steepness - to find the West Mendip Way at the top.  The climbing over, I get to know how a Cheltenham race horse feels. A straight path through fields, interrupted every quarter or mile or so by a huge stone stile that needs to be clambered over.

Bullocks in the mist, over the Somerset Plains

Two pubs in Priddy, walks-bys only at 10am. The Old New Inn, looking for purchasers but by the state of it, I can't see that happening. Their facebook page detailing a previous failed renovation, alongside the auctioning off of all furnishings of interest. Around the corner, the Victoria Inn, showing signs of how they beat the plague.

The Old New Inn - Ridiculously named - surely to be flattened

Oh I do like to be beside the pubside - Priddy's Victoria Inn and their beach huts

Into the National Trust owned Dursdon Wood estate, where the height is lost on a descent through Ebbor Gorge Valley to Wookey Hole. Glastonbury Tor reveals itself, through a gap in the clouds.

Glastonbury Tor, illuminated by a gap in the clouds

The top of Ebbor Gorge

Mud all the way back to Wells. I try to convince owners of impeccably clean dogs that perhaps another route would require less afternoon hose pipe action but they seem sanguine about the path states.

I have 90 minutes in Wells before the public transport. I can save money on organsised tours of Hot Fuzz locations by using an Adventure Lab Cache. Sites include the falling spire, the swan capture and of course, the "Battle of Sandford". Architectural sight-seeing also included.

Hot Fuzz

Bishops Palace, Wells

Wells Cathedral

Refreshments, are of course, also required.  Although not if you follow Somerville's Dads advice from the book. A keen walker himself, he had a very different outlook on life to most other ramblers.

Everything about his preparations was very sparse and frugal.  No pies, no pints, no pubs - God Forbid.  That sort of thing was for self indulgent chaps who were busy "digging their graves with their teeth"

Well I'm not having that - what a grump! Wells has two Good Beer Guide Ticks to aim for.

The Full Moon is the pick of the pair and one that I would be happy to call my local.  A genial Irish Landlord who when he bans mis-behavers, its not for life. A huge courtyard with the most permanent looking temporary structure ever found. Have you ever been in a gazebo with a pool table, table football, Chesterfields and a large screen for watching the seasonal egg-chasers?

Party Party at the Full Moon

Proper Job - Cheddar Ales Crown and Glory 

The age of The Crown can be determined by it's Wi-Fi code of 14501450.  The bible talks about a Quaker preaching to the masses in 1685.  In keeping with my ALC, it was the local in the 2006 Edgar Wright film.  Bistro all the way, but at least the pub bit was separate.  Even if every table was occupied by diners.

Interior shots were in the Royal Standard, Beaconsfield, Film (and pub) fans.

Walk Details

Distance - 9 miles

Geocaches - 5 and an Adventure Lab Cache

Previous Walks - January, February

Walk Inspiration - 100 Walks in Somerset and Avon, Walk 97 

Good Beer Guide Ticks  - #805 and #806

04/03/23 - London Spiral - Stage 10

An 11 mile walk from Lewisham to Wanstead provides London's greatest view, the most unusual way to use your oyster card and the hit and miss of London boozing by guide book.

A stunning start to the stage 10 of the London Spiral. Which is the finest view over London? Primrose Hill, or Greenwich park observatory?

One of many photos - but this captures most of London

With several Adventure Lab Caches, its also a meandering start to the walk. I learn of Cornish uprisings and their subsequent quashing. I take GPS readings where the Westings are set to zero. My psychogeography ramblings play havoc with a well attended park run.

Exiting Greenwich park at Maze Hill, I can at last get into a bit of a stride along the Thames Path.

Heading East

The last time I crossed the Thames from South to North, was via a ferry. This time, one of the more unsual transport options available through an Oyster Card delivers me to Canning Town. A Cloud cable car to myself for a brief respite from walking and minor panic at how close the planes coming in to land at City Airport are.

A glimpse of today's transport - whilst trying to determine how to cross the Blackwell Tunnel Approach

Victoria Docks and City Airport

Time for  refreshment and the Good Beer Guide entries are stored in the GPS. I have to admit, I did not expect to find a largely unchanged C18th Coaching House in Plaistow.

Stable Bar, a clue to former purpose

Entrance is a challenge. All doors have signs with an arrow saying "use next entrance". When the doors run out, you enter to an unmanned bar, with a rear door exit to the courtyard. Gaspers will provide directional advice, and you have to walk behind the bar to find where the life is.

Its a locals bar, so taking internal photos near impossible. But once you win their trust through a few jokes, you are made to feel at home to the point that a fellow drinker will join you at your table. They don't get many rucksack carrying ramblers through West Ham.  

Explanations given, with added colour on my eternal quest to seek out Good Beer Guide ticks. My new friend tells me he used to drink real ale till his weight ballooned to 17st. He only drinks lager now and I would estimate him to be around 12st. I tell him he ought to write a book on how to shed the pounds through a lager diet. He concurs, thinks deeply and then adds that there was also a stressful divorce.

The pub starts to fill and I could have stayed all day but walking progress needs to be made.

A veteran landlord of 35 years and a demolished Mighty Oak Brewing Captain Oak

Hopefully, I have found the roughest part of the London Spiral. I cannot recommend Forest Gate as a destination. A four man brawl outside some shops in the early afternoon. People chasing the dragon on the steps of run down housing. Previous geocaching logs put an end to that distraction. Possibly forever.

Such a lovely idea to remember your grandpa but it’s not a safe place to be wondering around. Came across handfuls of needles, crack spoon, human waste. I wouldn’t recommend anyone searches for it. Maybe the owner could relocate it.

The Good Beer Guide Pubs dry up but I can bring you the joys and perils of using other aging guide books. 

My second edition of Des De Moor's Camra Guide to London's best pubs and bars is 8 years old.

It leads me slightly off route to find the wonderful Wanstead Tap. Housed in a railway arch, like all good taps should be. Empty on a Saturday afternoon, I only get a glimpse of the glories within. Its more than just a drinking den, with live music, poetry readings and film nights. Seating setup like a speakeasy jazz club, with little round tables with individual lighting. Pint jugs with a tea-light. This is bordered by some fine Chesterfields, where I can watch the proprietor work on the lighting show configuration, whilst I relax with a 6.2% Northern Monk IPA.  

Beer, Gin, Music and Books.  Not much else in life, really.  Oh, and Pizza.

View from a Chesterfield

The host does not leave me totally alone, engaging in just the right amount of chat. I leave chuckling about the perils of on-line reviews from entitled parents and finding yet more inspiration for days out.

I make this four beer miles I need to do.

Thanks for showing me the Wanstead Tap, Des, but what do you recommend for lunch?

Belgique Bistro sounds right up my street. Des says...

Leafy Wanstead is an unexpected setting to stumble on this outpost of Low Countries culture, the only licenced outlet in a small Belgian-owned patisserie chain. A decent range of bottled beer, if a little weak in the lambic department.

Lovely - Kwak and frites coming up.

Well, I get half of that. The booze licence has been revoked.

My frites washed down with the final dregs of my rambling water.

Walk Information

Distance - 11.5 Miles

Start - Lewisham Station

Finish -  Wanstead Tube

Areas Walked - Black Heath, Greenwich, Canning Town, Plaistow, West Ham, Forest Gate, Wanstead

Geocaches - 4 and 2 Adventure Lab Caches

Pubs - 3 (Good Beer Guide Tick #803)

Previous Walks - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9