10/05/26 - A Wilstshire Way Day 2 - Marlborough to Pewsey

Man on a Deadline

Wiltshire has provided a new experience. I don't think a walk plotted on a map has so spectacularly failed to deliver in execution.

There are two very distinct walking areas for today's indirect route between Marlborough and Pewsey.

Savernake Forest is one of Southern England's oldest surviving forests. A harder look at the OS Map would have revealed the unnatural man-made tracks. Arrow straight, loose stone rides - shared with the  occasional vehicle spewing up dust - did not make for a pleasant morning. DPD were trying to set a time record for a full traverse. 

The map, more interesting than reality.

One part of the forest that DPD aren't allowed to drive

The village of Great Bedwyn offered potential refreshment but I was too early for the Three Tuns and the post office was closed on a Sunday. A first potential hazard encountered - a bull in field. Thankfully, he was distracted by a magpie in the churchyard.

Handsome beast

In an improvement on yesterday, I did find somewhere to lunch. The Swan at Wilton, a busy dining pub, where beer of the week, Ramsbury Gold, was once again found.

An admittedly poor photograph

And it was a good job I stopped here.

The afternoon's walking was along the Kennet and Avon Canal. I am from the West Midlands, from a town that solely exists because of the canal. You cannot walk for more than a couple of miles without stumbling on a pub or cafe. Not in Wiltshire. 

7 miles, where the only thing of "interest" was the Bruce Tunnel. And you have to leave the towpath to get through that.

It will be a while before my next canal walk

I met a trio of drinkers in Marlborough last night who told me that I should not miss the Shed Alehouse in Pewsey. Knowing how limited entertainment options in the town are, I was determined to take their advice. It closes at 4:30pm on a Sunday.

So the relentless canal plod was executed against a ticking stopwatch. It provided the motivation required. I was there at 4pm.

Taken after 4:30

What an odd place - the front drinking parlour is bolted onto a terraced house, containing maybe three tables. Packed solid. My 70l Osprey left on the street. To be honest, if it had been nicked, I would not have been too bothered.  Tube rules about giving your seat up to those more in need are unobserved. I'm the only mug who has traipsed 19 miles to get here.

By pint two, a gap had opened up and I was able to generate conversation with the old classic "where is best to eat in Pewsey". Always good for debate, even if the answer is not ofyen a Chinese on a bench.

There are three other pubs in town - although the Royal Oak had seemingly given up. It was open on arrival but firmly bolted before the chow mein had been ordered.

Moonrakers was where everyone in the Shed absconded to after 4:30pm. After B and B check-in (they don't do breakfast, so probably should call it a B) - I made it in time to get involved in a pub wide debate about VAR and whether West Ham's equaliser against Arsenal should have stood. Five days later and I am still undecided. Which shows why VAR needs to get in the bin. 

Wait till you see the roundabouts in Pewsey

Finally, after 33 miles of walking, I get my first Good Beer Guide Tick of the trip at The Coopers Arms. A delightful, thatched pub on the village outskirts. 

More like it

Ossett White Rat in perfect condition. If you want to get in the Bible, sell beer from Yorkshire.

Walk Details

Distance - 19 Miles

Geocaches - 4

Previous Stages on "A Wiltshire Way" - Day 1 - Swindon to Marlborough  

29/05/21 - Hungerford to Newbury on the Kennet and Avon Canal

Distance - 9 Miles

Geocaches - 3

 

It was all Greene King's fault.  They sent me a bargain offer for the Bear Hotel in Hungerford and I knew there was a walk that I wanted to do.  A review of my extensive to-do list revealed that this was the canal walk to Newbury and return on the train.

I'm not a massive fan of canal walks but I am a sucker for a linear walk that returns on public transport.  I also expected a high number of canal side pubs.

So I accepted their generous offer and with good weather promised, Mrs M decided she liked the sound of it.

The Walk

Navigation couldn't be easier and at times, where you walk with the Kennet to your left and the canal to your right, its very pretty. 

I should have really completed more research first.  If I want to do all 87 miles of the canal - and who knows, I may live long enough - I probably should have started at Reading.  Or Bath.  Instead, I have ticked off a middle section.  

Also - a quick look at the map would have revealed little civilisation (read pubs).  There was one on route - a passed by too early Dundas Arms in Kintbury - a mere 2.5 miles into the walk.

But fear not, Newbury has 5 Good Beer Guide entries to explore - worthy of a separate blog.  

Leaving Hungerford and finding the Canal

Arriving in Kintbury

Blossoms

Arrival into Newbury

The Bear, Hungerford

Exceeded expectations.  Its an old coaching house, which claims to date back to the C13th.  It would appear to have been closed down for a while before a re-fit and reopening.

There's a pretty little courtyard for outdoor drinking and some vague interpretation of the rules, that were leaving other punters perplexed.  I asked how the system worked to a young couple on the next table and they said "You order a drink and then wait 30 minutes for it to arrive".

If only it was that simple.  In reality, you went inside, found a man - who then said I will come with you to your table to take your order.  Which he did.  And then said I had to come back to the bar to pay for my drink.  Which I was then able to collect.  So it was kind of like the good old days, when you go to a bar and see what is on offer and order appropriately.

And what was appropriate - a rather decent Timothy Taylor Landlord.

The room was fantastic - spacious, with a lovely bathroom and a view from the bedroom window to CAMRA West Berkshire's Pub of the Year.  

Which Mrs M had the foresight to book at table for tea.  Results of which to follow.

See if you can spot who booked John O' Gaunt