Thursday, 14 May 2026

10/05/26 - A Wilstshire Way Day 2 - Marlborough to Pewsey

Man on a Deadline

Wiltshire has provided a new experience. I don't think a walk plotted on a map has so spectacularly failed to deliver in execution.

There are two very distinct walking areas for today's indirect route between Marlborough and Pewsey.

Savernake Forest is one of Southern England's oldest surviving forests. A harder look at the OS Map would have revealed the unnatural man-made tracks. Arrow straight, loose stone rides - shared with the  occasional vehicle spewing up dust - did not make for a pleasant morning. DPD were trying to set a time record for a full traverse. 

The map, more interesting than reality.
Savernake Forest
One part of the forest that DPD aren't allowed to drive

The village of Great Bedwyn offered potential refreshment but I was too early for the Three Tuns and the post office was closed on a Sunday. A first potential hazard encountered - a bull in field. Thankfully, he was distracted by a magpie in the churchyard.

Great Bedwyn
Handsome beast

In an improvement on yesterday, I did find somewhere to lunch. The Swan at Wilton, a busy dining pub, where beer of the week, Ramsbury Gold, was once again found.

The Swan at Wilton
An admittedly poor photograph

And it was a good job I stopped here.

The afternoon's walking was along the Kennet and Avon Canal. I am from the West Midlands, from a town that solely exists because of the canal. You cannot walk for more than a couple of miles without stumbling on a pub or cafe. Not in Wiltshire. 

7 miles, where the only thing of "interest" was the Bruce Tunnel. And you have to leave the towpath to get through that.

Kennet and Avon Canal
It will be a while before my next canal walk

I met a trio of drinkers in Marlborough last night who told me that I should not miss the Shed Alehouse in Pewsey. Knowing how limited entertainment options in the town are, I was determined to take their advice. It closes at 4:30pm on a Sunday.

So the relentless canal plod was executed against a ticking stopwatch. It provided the motivation required. I was there at 4pm.

The Shed Alehouse, Pewsey
Taken after 4:30

What an odd place - the front drinking parlour is bolted onto a terraced house, containing maybe three tables. Packed solid. My 70l Osprey left on the street. To be honest, if it had been nicked, I would not have been too bothered.  Tube rules about giving your seat up to those more in need are unobserved. I'm the only mug who has traipsed 19 miles to get here.

By pint two, a gap had opened up and I was able to generate conversation with the old classic "where is best to eat in Pewsey". Always good for debate, even if the answer is not ofyen a Chinese on a bench.

There are three other pubs in town - although the Royal Oak had seemingly given up. It was open on arrival but firmly bolted before the chow mein had been ordered.

Moonrakers was where everyone in the Shed absconded to after 4:30pm. After B and B check-in (they don't do breakfast, so probably should call it a B) - I made it in time to get involved in a pub wide debate about VAR and whether West Ham's equaliser against Arsenal should have stood. Five days later and I am still undecided. Which shows why VAR needs to get in the bin. 

Moonrakers, Pewsey
Wait till you see the roundabouts in Pewsey

Finally, after 33 miles of walking, I get my first Good Beer Guide Tick of the trip at The Coopers Arms. A delightful, thatched pub on the village outskirts. 

The Coopers Arms, Pewsey
More like it

Ossett White Rat in perfect condition. If you want to get in the Bible, sell beer from Yorkshire.

Walk Details

Distance - 19 Miles

Geocaches - 4

Previous Stages on "A Wiltshire Way" - Day 1 - Swindon to Marlborough  

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