Saturday 24 February 2024

24/02/24 - The Good Beer Guide Pubs of Kendal

 Tap Rooms, Craft Bars and Traditionals Aplenty....


A first flying visit to Kendal. It won't be the last. Larger than Ambleside and Keswick, we only scratched the surface of a busy pub and restaurant scene that was teeming with independents. 

An AI Introduction;

Kendal, Cumbria, is an historic town nestled amidst the stunning scenery of the Lake District National Park. Its roots stretch back to Roman times, with archaeological evidence suggesting a fort and settlement existed there. However, Kendal truly flourished in the medieval period, becoming a center for the wool trade and earning the nickname "The Queen of the Greens." This moniker stemmed from the vast stretches of green fields used for grazing sheep, vital to the town's wool production.

Today, Kendal retains its charming historic center, boasting Georgian architecture and a vibrant market dating back to the 12th century. While a popular base for exploring the surrounding lakes and mountains, Kendal also offers a surprisingly diverse pub and bar scene, catering to diverse tastes and creating a unique social atmosphere.

Two guides available to me - an ancient CAMRA Pub Crawls book or the current Good Beer Guide, with four entries. On this occasion, we go modern. With company, I forget to take photos after the first couple of places.    

The Factory Tap made for a fine start. To summarise, it was a a two pint stop, with my drinking colleagues failing to appreciate how much work we need to do. Or they may not invite me next time, if I continue to drag them away from a place that they enjoy and feel comfortable.

The Factory Tap, Kendal
Hey, good looking

I'd point you at the first result for their website in a google search - although it looks suspiciously insecure, offering "Feminine Korean Brides", rather than detailing the Fyne Jarl that we made an instant bee-line for, after discounting the other five cask offerings.

Alas, the first pint was on the turn and a bit of a cloudy mess. My colleagues stuck with it and were rewarded with a changed barrel and a crystal clear pint of loveliness.

Our table was in high demand and our vacated space was soon jumped into by the Isle Man Football Fans who we meet again later, in much higher numbers. 

The Factory Tap, Kendal
Peace, before the "Ravens" descend

As with all good pub crawls, we instantly go off piste. The Handsome Snuff Bar requiring investigation from the name alone.

Handsome Snuff Bar, Kendal
What makes a Snuff Bar?

The Tap Room for the previously unheard of Handsome Brewery (c2016). A fine Georgian Town House over a couple of floors.  Of course, the Bitter is named "Stranger".

Back to the GBG Ticks and an apparently tiny craft bottle shop, Indie Craft Beer.  A typical Cumbrian use of nomenclature, doing exactly what is says on the tin. We snuggled next to what we assume was the house dog's spot - a gorgeous cocker spaniel bitch - who made sure we knew the Window seat was where she sleeps.  Further investigation could have revealed an extra two rooms.

A beery oasis inside, with all the options from all the countries. The team split into two camps - those that went for schooners of Pressure Drop's Year of the Crab NEIPA and those who don't remember the final port of call as they were on Delirium Tremens.

A shop conversion - no photos, so use your imagination.

Food required next and if you are new to a town, you have to visit the oldest pub. Ye Olde Fleece. Grade II Listed and from 1654. You'd have thought that 370 years of operation would have taught them a thing or two about customer service but we were left waiting for an unreasonable amount of time for menus, then drinks (Black Sheep) and then orders to be taken. Warned that the pies were freshly prepared, we feared the worst but were soon on our way after coaxing the chips from a pan, the gravy from another pan and the pie from a third pan. I'd say it was one for "We want plates" but we had a plate. Just a lot of other receptacles balanced on top. Think of the washing up.

Ye Olde Fleece, Kendal
Kendal's Oldest Pub

Veteran's of communal pub crawls will know that "eating is cheating" and this is the point you can lose moral unless some takes a firm hand. Yes, we are going for the longest walk of the night. Yes, I know you have completed 2500ft of ascent in the mountains and your legs hurt. Yes, I know you are full of pie.

The New Union will be worth it, I insist.

Although, a rather austere frontage - seen here from Tripadvisor and even more unappealing at night - makes me wonder whether I am ever going to live this down.

Union in the Daylight

It's utterly mental - and I will try and do it justice.

The bar is four deep - but that's not my problem. It's someone else's round.  

There's barely standing room anywhere. The Isle of Man football supporters have taken their 6-1 drubbing at the hands of Kendal better than expected. They have a drum. The drummer strikes a rhythm and songs about "Ravens" to the tune of "We are Sailing" spark up.

As if they need further encouragement, a rather excellent funk/soul band spark up, which sets the fans dancing in their numbers. You haven't lived until you have seen the club mascot - a man in a football kit with an oversized Ravens head dance to an Average White Band cover. My words are not doing it justice, so here he is in his natural environment.

Bird has got the moves

To be fair, this level of entertainment was just what we needed for avoiding post pie slumber. However, the busy-ness meant we couldn't fully appreciate the excellent range of beer they had on. The smallest of gaps through the bar led me to order a much piss taking 3%  Kernal Table Beer, whilst my colleagues learned relatively quickly that Zot should not be drunk in pints, even if the ceremonial glassware exists.

One tick to go and I'm probably the only one of us who remembers the Fell Bar. One of three tap rooms for the Fell Brewery.  I think their Tinderbox IPA might be my current favourite pint, having had a couple in Keswick's Wainwright Pub after walking Cat Bells. It will certainly be my next "home order".

The bar is an immaculate town house over at least three stories, although the third was in darkness.

An environment to decompress and collectively agree that a dancing raven was not an hallucination.

On the hunt for breakfast the following morning, we discover all the pubs we could have won. A very handsome looking 'spoons fashioned from the former council buildings. A pub next door to that with a massive chimney.  All 11 pubs detailed in my other guide book.

Kendal will truly be our "Gateway to the Lakes". 



24/02/24 - (Most Of) The Hartsop Horseshoe for the Brotherswater Inn

 Still got a few mountains in us.... but the clock is ticking


Plenty of things to concern yourself when knocking off the Wainwrights in your fifties. Not least the parking. Alas, three middle aged men cannot navigate the M6 from the Midlands without making detours at Keele, Knutsford and finally Carnforth. Disappoint abounds that we missed out on the Greggs at the more traditional services stop at Lancaster.  When we could do the trip as a one stopper.

It with a huge amount of luck that we grab the very last parking spot in Hartsop Village. 2 minutes later and the pubs of Kendal would have got a hammering from lunchtime.

But I've got to admit, that we don't feel that lucky when boots on, we look at the ascent.

False Summit of Hartsop Dodd
We need to follow the walk on the RHS to the FALSE summit of Hartsop Dodd

It's unrelentingly steep and a challenge for three blokes that have all recently taken advantage of NHS pre-paid presecription certificates. Despite the fact that I am the "walk leader", my frequent stops to get my breathe back take photos mean that I am definitely bringing up the rear. 

We hit the snow and the clag at Hartsop Dodd. A good mile of relatively flat walking across Cauldale Moor to Stony Cove Pike provides some easier walking even if we can't see much.

A challenging "hands on rock" descent across Threshwaite Crag, where we are back under the cloud cover. A decision needs to be made after lunch. The planned route required climbing back into the mist and snow.  

Pasture Bottom - with its handily placed escape route path - proved just too much of a temptation.

Looking down Pasture Bottom
Why go up, when you can go down?

I'm delighted to say that through this blog, I can determine that I've missed nothing in the quest to tick the 214 Wainwrights. Was it really 9 years ago since Gray Crag and the Thornthwaite Crag beacon were ticked? Has my mountain speed really dropped by 25%? No bloody fun getting old, is it?

The only thing to do is to retreat to the pub to ponder these, and other questions.

The Brotherswater Inn is handily placed and we are grateful that it is open, having passed the skips outside the Kirkstone Pass Inn earlier in the day. England's second highest pub remains closed. WhatPub's listed reason for closing, "Building Work", enters its third year.

Brotherswater Inn
Back to the Brotherswater Inn

The Brotherswater Inn is open for business. A remote pub that no doubt gets most of its business from the attached campsite. Of course, this means the usual table reservations of an itinerant clientele. But 3pm, we are OK to be seated and sample a beautiful Tirrel's IPA, admiring the views from the floor to ceiling windows. 

2 more Wainwrights ticked - bringing me to 86/214 - over 17 years.  

The post pint consensus is that the frequency of charging up the M6 needs to significantly increase in our last good years.

Walk Details

Distance - 5 Miles

Walk Inspiration - Trail Magazine January 2014 Walk 1

Geocaches - 1




Saturday 17 February 2024

17/02/24 - A Pub Crawl in Belgravia

 Searching for John Bindon

Belgravia

Belgravia's story is one of dramatic transformation. Once a soggy expanse known as "Five Fields," notorious for highwaymen and muddy paths, it rose in the 19th century to become a symbol of elegance and wealth. This metamorphosis began with King George III's residence at Buckingham Palace, which spurred development in the area. But it was Richard Grosvenor, 2nd Marquess of Westminster, who envisioned a grand vision. Partnering with builder Thomas Cubitt, they crafted Belgravia as we know it today – elegant white stucco terraces around Belgrave Square and Eaton Square, each a testament to innovation and ambition.

This new district quickly became a magnet for high society. Aristocrats, wealthy merchants, and even foreign embassies flocked to Belgravia, attracted by its fashionable air and discreet charm. The likes of Charles Dickens, Benjamin Disraeli, and Winston Churchill called it home.  And Bindon, more of later.

Mistakenly, I wouldn't have expected it to provide rich pickings for a pub crawl but in the hands of Ted Bruning and much needed Smartphone navigation, this preconception was quickly shattered.

No Messing - Walk 1 is 10 Pubs

John Bindon

Quite an extraordinary man, John Bindon. Son of a Fulham Taxi driver, he was a minor gangster, actor, murderer, bodyguard and in a move that prompted me to read his biography, the Queen's Sister's Lover.  He stared in four films of interest..... Quadrophenia and Get Carter are in my all time favs and Performance and Poor Cow have quite a legacy.

I knew from the biography (which includes a handy map) that he lived in a small flat in Belgravia and drank at the Star Tavern. This web site helped with location and contains some fine photos.

John on the left - Working Security with Led Zeppelin, Bob promoting Banks's

Grown men still sing songs about him and his extraordinary tricks with 5 pints of Banks's.


I have enough information for me to plan an afternoon of discovery.

The Antelope, 22 Eaton Terrace, GBG Tick #936

The Antelope, Eaton Square
A fine start to proceedings...

This incarnation of the pub is from the 1820s, although the guide book suggests that there was "an isolated and villainous country pub used by the five field bandits" located at this site before.

Like most of the pubs in Belgravia, its purpose was to serve the builders and staff of the fine houses that sprung up in the area.

Today, its a Fuller's pub with plenty of wood paneling, a central island bar and a lovely little snug room to the left hand side. Celebrations of an annual game of cricket with the patrons from Notting Hill's Churchill Arms are reflected on a trophy board. They seem quite fair in sharing honours.

The Antelope, Eaton Square
The Wooden Antelope

The Star Tavern, Belgrave Mews West, GBG Tick #937

First Bindon's gaff, located down a blind alley that I was not 100% sure I was allowed to walk down.

John Bindon's House
Pale Blue building... Garage was used for some of the scenes in Performance

The Star Tavern, Belgravia
Just around the corner, the Star Tavern

The Star Tavern was John's local and was the focal point in the 1960s for a "well heeled demi-monde of gangsters, slumming aristocrats and the rest of the brittle glitterati of the time".  Patrons rumoured to include Princess Margaret, Bing Crosby and the meeting place that launched the Profumo affair.  Did the landlord, Paddy Kennedy, really tell Elizabeth Taylor to "Move her fat arse" so one of his regulars could sit down? I really hope so.

The pub's web site makes no attempt to dispel the legend that the Great Train Robbery was planned within its rooms.  And some pantie thieving


The Star Tavern, a favourite of the rich and famous for many years, won infamy during the fifties and sixties as the hangout for London’s inner circle of master criminals, who quaffed Dom Perignon here alongside stars of the era such as Diana Dors, Peter O’Toole, Albert Finney and Alexander Korda the famous film director. This is where most of the planning took place for what was then the century’s biggest heist – the Great Train Robbery, netting the 18 man gang £2.6 million – about £40 million in today’s money.

After a tip-off from a bent solicitor’s clerk that up to £6 million was going to be on a Glasgow to London mail train on 8th August 1963, Bruce Reynolds, a well known and successful robber, contacted Buster Edwards, who was part of the ‘South Coast Raiders’ train robbing gang – and the plan was formed.

Reynolds, who co-ordinated the robbery, regularly drove his Aston Martin from his Streatham home to meet Edwards and one or two other members of the gang in The Star to go over details during the run-up to the robbery. Four was the maximum number to meet in public at any one time, in case the police were observing them. Reynolds’ friend, Terry Hogan, introduced him to The Star following the Eastcastle Street mailbag robbery of 1952 in which they both took part. Reynolds felt he’d broken through into the upper echelons of the criminal fraternity, and remembers meeting many of the ‘gentlemen robbers’ of the time such as Peter Scott, here in The Star. It was Scott who stole jewellery from Sophia Loren worth £200,000 and who came here and said ‘I hear poor Sophia has been robbed’ before getting out a huge roll of bank notes. Reputedly, he always stole a pair of his victims’ underwear at the same time.

Today, its another Fullers Pub. I found a nice spot at the end of the bar to soak in the atmosphere, ponder if they ever closed the curtains around the door and reflect that 330ml of 0.0% Ashahi Dry is £5.20.

The Star Tavern, Belgravia
Steeped in legend - sit and soak it up.

Nag's Head, Kinnerton Street

My next port of call is a place that shouldn't - by ANY stretch of the imagination, work.  Yet, by God, it does.

Nag's Head, Kinnerton Street
Can we trust a pub that has the landlord's name in a bigger font than the pub name?

The regulars on the London Pubs facebook page list a litany of hospitality crimes, many of which I observed in my short stay;
  • £15 Minimum Card Transaction
  • All Pints are £8, slung into any old receptacle. German lager in a Guinness pint pot, for example
  • Short measures. Tough to take at £8
  • Rude Staff
  • A no telephone rule that is enforced with a ferocity that would embarrass Humphrey Smith 
I bloody loved it!  Even after having to wait to be served by a large group of Italians who seemed somewhat bemused by the whole experience.

It was London's smallest pub until the back room was opened out. A bonus virtual pint to whoever can tell me which establishment currently owns this record.

Nick-nacks everywhere, some fierce cast iron fires and toilets that need to be discovered on another day.

Nag's Head, Kinnerton Street
Mappiman, show me £4 worth of Belgravia Beer?

Need more facts?  Over the road, at Number 44, was the home of Ghislaine Maxwell and where that infamous photo of the 8th in line to the throne and sweaty nonce was taken.

The Grenadier, Wilton Row

Experienced pub fans will have been expecting this one. Located at the end of a blind alley, you certainly need map reading skills to find it.

The Grenadier, Wilton Row
Worth it when you get there

Another tiny pub, where I made the mistake of taking the final seat at the end of the bar. It really is amazing how some people have been brought up with a lack of pub etiquette. My favourite moment, a Hooray Henrietta spilling her recently purchased drink mid way through an order and demanding (and receiving) a free replacement.     

Lots of military memorabilia on the walls, as you would expect from a place that has an external sentry box. Originally the Duke of Wellington's Officers Mess, there are rumours the Iron Duke himself visted. More exciting is Ted's description of a Sunday Bloody Mary Club, where record sales were "300 Bloody Marys at £4 a shot, so they are not doing too badly".

Twenty years on and this is the price of a small cup of coffee. My server was American, but did not respond well to my request for a free refill.  Must have been the accent that was all wrong.

Four pubs ticked and with a battle against the Avanti West Coast line awaiting, I call it a day.

Not even half way through Ted's recommendations for just a small area of London.  

Will my work ever be done?

17/02/24 - London Spiral Stage 13 - Wembley to Richmond

 From Rags to Richmond Riches looking for Ted


The biggest surprise today was how close Wembley and Richmond are. If quizzed, I would have said 20 miles. In reality - 8 miles that includes some Adventure Lab Caching (ALC) meandering and a train from Kew Gardens.

A walk that shows the diversity (of wealth) of London. No hanging around in Wembley. I'd have got stoned on second hand breakfast jazz cigarettes. Not that there was anywhere to stop.

The Plough, Alperton
The Plough, Alperton

There's no way this could be described as classic walking but it does have challenges to overcome. Circumventing Hanger Lane gyratory on foot requires luck and bravery. The main road of Hanger Lane is full of traffic noise, but does allow a glimpse through the gates of Ealing Village. Cottage living in West London. Distraction found in Gunnersbury Park, where an ALC shows me the temples, pools and gothic castles.

Gunnersbury Park
Architecture in Gunnersbury Park

Planned to perfection for the 11am opening of my first Good Beer Guide Tick - The Express Tavern at Kew Bridge. But who are the hordes of people being helped across the pedestrian crossing under the M4?

Home of Brentford
Does Brentford still have a pub at each corner of the ground?

Alert the "Dubious Ticks Committee".  As beautiful as the Express Tavern looks, I'm not battling a four deep bar queue to drink Bass out of a plastic glass.

Express Tavern, Kew
Guarded by two layers of bouncers - High and Low Viz

Vow to future self - check the football. Not only did I plan a lunchtime pint at the nearest pub to a premier league game with a 12:30am kick off, I also planned a 19:00 return train after both Villa and Wolves took three points each back to the Midlands. Unsurprisingly, I have a delay/reply in progress due to the Avanti West Coast main line being blocked by the previous train due to "passenger disturbance".

Back to the walking.... Kew village is beautiful and a final ALC shows me the sights around the Green. I could bring photos, but probably best to let you use you imagination as to what the mortuary for Thames river drowning casualties looks like.

Richmond is not quite on the London Spiral Walk but it is easily accessible from Kew Gardens station.

Walking curtailed to go on the hunt for Ted Lasso. 

I'm owed an half from missing the Express - so a beeline is made for The White Cross. 10 years since my last visit and I have fond memories of seeing the brightly lit neon signage after arriving in town as dusk fell after a riverside walk.

A simple Young's Pub that should be on all "Best views from a pub window" lists.

White Horse, Richmond
The White Cross, Richmond
Richmond Bridge
View from the pub steps
White Horse, Richmond
Same view past the diners in the Bay Window

Ted Lasso - the mildly amusing football based comedy drama that prompted me to take out another paid TV subscription - is quite the cultural phenomenon. I wait my turn for the photos outside his flat in Paved Court.

Paved Court, Richmond
Paved Court - Home of Ted
Home of Ted Lasso
And there he is....

The fictional pub in the series, the Crown and Anchor, is in reality is the Princes Head. A prime location, looking over the Richmond Green and as you would expect from a Fullers House, a very good ESB.

Princes Head, Richmond
Music is Life at the Princes Head
Princes Head, Richmond
Lots of Ted fans - but they can't complain - Richmond AFC Scarves behind the bar just encourages them
 
Starving hungry, I would have eaten here if they had allowed a solo diner one of their free restaurant tables. All booked at 2pm sounds like an anti-rambler excuse. But to be fair, this did lead to a much more convivial experience in Cricketers next door.

Greeted by an old school, be-tied landlord, this Greene King House from 1770 has the same views over Richmond Green, with a far more laid back experience.  Everything is old school - from the furniture, stripped floorboards and cricket related paraphernalia. Timothy Taylor an addition to the GK Standards but it was the food and service that made this place a joy. Prices reasonable (for London).

The Cricketeers, Richmond
Handsome and Old School


Walk Information

Distance - 8 Miles

Start - Wembley Central Station

Finish - Kew Gardens Station

Areas Walked - Alperton, Ealing, Gunnersbury Park, Kew

Geocaches - 2 and two Adventure Lab Caches

Pubs - 3

Previous Walks - Stage 1Stage 2Stage 3Stage 4Stage 5Stage 6Stage 7Stage 8Stage 9Stage 10Stage 11, Stage 12

Sunday 11 February 2024

11/02/24 - 24 Hours in Clevedon

 A charming town, with two Good Beer Guide Ticks


A first visit to Clevedon. I'll tell you that we loved it..... impressive architecture, proper sea lapping at the prom and a laid back vibe represented by its lack of parking restrictions. Should you want something a little bit more "tour guide", I asked AI (with a further request to turn down the OTT adjectives).

Situated on the Bristol Channel coast in Somerset, Clevedon holds a significant place in Victorian history, particularly as a burgeoning tourist destination. The town's focal point is the Clevedon Pier, an architectural marvel erected in 1869 and now designated as a Grade I listed structure. This Victorian pier has not only become an iconic landmark but has also been featured in various films and television productions. The town center showcases Victorian architecture, hosting a mix of independent shops and cafes. Clevedon's seafront, lined with Victorian and Edwardian structures, offers a historical backdrop for leisurely walks. Beyond its architectural appeal, Clevedon's tourism thrives on community events and cultural festivals that highlight its Victorian heritage. As a testament to its role in the Victorian era, Clevedon provides visitors with a factual glimpse into a bygone period, marked by architectural significance and cultural richness.

The GBG Guide Pubs were found on Saturday night, but I'll start the blog with a Sunday Morning walk.

A long saunter along the prom, taking in the pier before picking up the Coast Path. Fine views across to Wales and her mountains. Inland to Walton in Gordano (the Gordano valley crying out for future exploration) and back along the Coast. "Best Sunday Lunch in Clevedon" google provided an unexpected hit for Limehouse - a burger and cocktail bar. A strong 4/5 from Mrs M, who knows a lot about these things. Full marks if the beef had been slightly less difficult to cut or the knife slightly sharper.

Night view from the Prom, Clevedon
A night time view from the Prom
Grade I listed Clevedon Pier
Grade I listed pier
North Somerset Coast Path
The North Somerset Coast Path, next stop Portishead
Overlooking Clevedon
A view of Clevedon's fine architecture from on high

Back to Saturday night.

The Royal Oak is an unfussy back street locals pubs, where the punters are lured in on the promise of free soup. Although we had some discussion as to what was being spooned out of the tureen, along with crusty baguettes. It could have been anything from cullen skink to curry. We didn't feel local enough to help ourselves. Besides, it was standing room only and Mrs M could not have managed bowl, bread, gin glass and mixer bottle.

A central bar separated two rooms and six nations rugby is not the time to go pub exploring. 

Royal Oak, Clevedon
Bar blocking hell - although I will learn more about the good ship Matthew

Beerwise, an average Butcombe selected from four options, only two of which I could see. One of those, London Pride.

Royal Oak, Clevedon
It does take a nice night time photo

After Tapas (which is Spanish for small plates, big prices, you will want chips later), we head to the obligatory Micro Pub.  The Fallen Tree the first in the area and along a lovely street of independent shops and restaurants that include the aforementioned Limehouse.

Fallen Tree, Clevedon
The Fallen Tree by Day

A rather limited supply of beers, that I can only think represent the owner's preference.  Four casks on stillage, no keg and the only cans appeared to be sours. The usual collection of wacky nick nacks that include seating from a passenger airplane, an aircraft propeller fan and a cardboard "television", complete with the image of Trevor McDonald.

Fallen Tree, Clevedon
After much board perusal, it was a Hop Union Brewery Scallywag. 

Onwards to the other part of town. Live music at Riff Corner.

Walk Details

Distance - 7 miles

Geocaches - 1 and a few stages of two ALCs

Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine, June 2009, Walk 5

Good Beer Guide Ticks - #933 and #944




Saturday 10 February 2024

10/02/24 - A mooch around Portishead Good Beer Guide Pubs

 Finding our own way in North Somerset


I own quite the collection of walking books and magazines. Mrs M threatens a de-cluttering when we move house. We are not moving house. She then threatens skip-hire when I die.

From this massive collection of easily more than 10,000 potential routes in the UK, not a single one is focused on Portishead. I consult my aging OS Map for inspiration.

Portishead, late 90s
Of little use....
The town must have at least doubled in the last 30 years. The expanse of white space to the east of the docks is now full of new build accommodation. Should Mrs M get her way of moving house, it won't be to a new build. Just casual observation shows how quickly jauntily clad buildings discolour and don't get me started on the flashing.

Adventure Lab Caching eventually provides the inspiration needed for a circuit that neglected the old town centre. Public art installations around the Marina and then onto Battery Point for sea views.

Portishead Marina
Portishead Marina and the new builds

Portishead Art Work
Public Art nodding to Portishead's phosphorous producing past

Battery Point, Portishead
Sea Views at Battery Point

Picking up the North Somerset Coast Path, we walk past Marine Lake and reach one of the clues in the second ALC - The Windmill. We think its a cafe. In a case of planets aligning, it transpires to be;
  • A Fuller's Pub
  • That is open at 11am
  • That is also in the Good Beer Guide
  • And has successfully trained their staff in the dark arts of up-selling
We offer no resistance, our order for two coffees extended to include carrot cake and the finest sausage sandwich known to man.  

The Windmill, Portishead
Still a tick, if only breakfast was consumed

No need for the dubious tick committee to be consulted for our next pub. Making it back to the Marina, we find the Siren's Calling. Hidden in plain sight between a posh chipper and the Co-op.

Sirens Call, Portishead
Jacket's off for the first outdoor pint of 2024

A perfect micro pub and easily my pub of the four GBG weekend. Inside, a deep red Chesterfield sofa spotted. Outside, a sun trap and perfect place to people watch. Knowledgeable staff that walked me through a wonderful selection of craft keg, traditional keg and a lot of Belgian and German choices.

I could have happily wiled away the afternoon before the evening's live music started at 9.

But we have Clevedon to visit.

Sirens Call, Portishead
Sunshine dictated a Good Chemistry Free Thinker from Bristol

Walk Details

Distance - 4 Miles

Geocaches - 2 x Adventure Lab Caches

Good Beer Guide Ticks - #931 and #932




Sunday 4 February 2024

04/02/24 - Centenary Way - Stage 24

Dying of Boredom on the Centenary Way


I had made a new year's resolution to complete more research before heading out on my walks.

One look at the map for the latest leg of a stunningly dull long distance path made me realise this wasn't required today.  

The start is Whatcote. The decision on whether I wanted to patronise a two starred Michelin "pub", where the only menu detailed on their website is an £85 tasting menu is made for me. The Royal Oak is closed for their winter break.

The other building of interest is St Peter's Church. I was that bored on my return to the village that I forgot to inspect the damage caused by a stray WWII bomb. I can understand why the German's targeted the area.

St Peter's Church, Whatcote
St Peter's Church, Whatcote

Warwickshire, Whatcote - Bomb damage
Flickr can be relied on for research

The walk?  Six miles of Warwickshire field edges.  

Field Edges on the Warwickshire Centenary Way
How was your Sunday?

Two legs left on the Centenary Way.  I'm sure you will be as pleased as me it is coming to an end.

Walk Details

Distance - 6 Miles

Geocaches - 2

Pub - The George Townhouse, Shipston-on-Stour (visited post walk, 6 miles away)

Previous Stages - Stage 1Stage 2Stage 3Stage 4Stage 5Stage 6Stage 7Stage 8Stage 9Stage 10Stage 11Stage 12Stage 13Stage 14Stage 15Stage 16Stage 17Stage 18Stage 19Stage 20Stage 21Stage 22, Stage 23

Saturday 3 February 2024

03/02/24 - Mitchell's Fold Stone Circle

Shropshire legends, pub archaeology and poor spelling


Proper wild walking on the Shropshire/Powys border. Mitchell's Fold, a 2000 year old Bronze Age stone circle, the immediate highlight, no more than half a mile from the pot holed car park.

Originally 30 standing stones, now down to 15 and like all stone circles, a bugger to photograph.

Mitchell's Fold Stone Circle
According to legend, Mitchell the Witch
Mitchell's Fold
Looking back over the car park

Of course, legends are associated;

The area now occupied by this stone circle was once said to be farmed by a giant who kept a pure-white fairy cow. The animal who would freely give up her milk to anyone who milked her, providing they took no more than one pailful at a time. This arrangement continued happily until one day a witch named Mitchell came and milked the cow into a sieve, not stopping until the poor cow ran dry and became crazed. The cow then ran away, never to be seen again.  As punishment for her wicked deed, the witch was turned to stone and stands there still as the tallest stone, while the circle of stones was said to have been placed around her to prevent her escaping.

Something to ponder, as I bound across the remote moorland. 

How do you milk a cow with a sieve?

Navigation is straightforward - I'm heading for the Castle Ring Hillfort and the drover's trail navugation aid that is Brownlow Callow..... a prominent circle of trees on a hill.

Brownlow Callow
Half way and the turning back point....

As always, my 20 year old OS Map teases. On the opposite side of the hill is the Big Blue Cup of Joy but I know in my heart of hearts that the chances of a remote pub still being in operation are low.  However, it does provide me the chance to complete a little pub archaeology. There is always a story.

Looking down over Abel's Harp
Even Brownlow - pop. 12 - once had a pub
  
One of these buildings is now a boutique hotel and wedding venue called Abel's Harp. I'll save you the trouble of looking it up on Tripadvisor. The hot tub is full of grit.

In 2012, it was the Callow Inn but details of this incarnation are sketchy. We can go further back to the 1970s, when it was the Drum and Monkey. Ronnie Lane of the Faces used to own a fishery nearby. I'm unsure if this set the trend for pop stars having fish related side hustles, but I know Roger Daltrey is a trout farmer. Ronnie frequented the pub and often entertained his celebrity chums at his home.

Back in March 4th 1977, rumour had it that fellow Baggie with more nicknames than you can shake a stick at (God, Old Slowhand and Massive Racist) was playing an impromptu set.

£1 on the door got you live entertainment with Ronnie, Eric Clapton on Guitar and Patti Boyd Can Can dancing.

One of the few photos from the night - see the Shropshire Star

Every pub has a story.

I go looking for more in Craven Arms. This might be the only village in the UK named after it's pub, which is sadly boarded up since my last visit just before covid. If you search hard enough, you can find its successor - the Stables.  A community local that provides fine Hobsons Bitter and home made scotch eggs.

The Stables, Craven Arms
Potential future venue for N-Dubz, with H from Steps
The Stables, Craven Arms
Balanced Lunch

Geocaching takes me to the C18th obelisk, marking the distance to major cities on this old coaching road.

Let's hope they didn't let the stone mason lose on tombstones.

Craven Arms Obelisk
Things Geocaching Takes you to
Craven Arms Obelisk
This is not the only typo.... See "Aberystwith" for details

Walk Details

Distance - 6 Miles

Geocaches - 2 and an Adventure Lab Cache in Craven Arms

Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine, December 2023, Walk 13