11/10/22 - Torbay - Good Beer Guide Pubs (and others)

Off course the Good Beer Guide 2022 was checked before heading off to Torbay.

Torquay and Brixham get one each.  Paignton gets three but a mistake was made. I stopped reading once I got to the entry for the Conservative Members Club.  Miss-Truss abounds.

Knowing this woudn't be enough to last three nights, I went back through previous archives. Punts were taken on random pubs of interest spotted in the field.

Paignton - within minutes of working out that the Ringo parking app now requires you to activate on entry and exit, we are fighting the tourists down a slightly shabby street of tat shops, on the lookout for Henry's Bar.

The Decal had a look of a JDW

A quirky interior, that goes back a long way.  

Inside Henry's

Lots of good beer guide advertising, so they are committed to keeping the high standards that got them recommended in the first place.  Certainly nothing wrong with my 11:30am Dartmoor Jail Ale, that must have been the first pour of the day.  Not everyone is on holiday.

Also a good place to get food between midnight and 9pm.

And make sure you sit down!

Torquay surprised us by having just the one current entry.  But don't go on a Monday.  The Buccaneer is closed, despite the hours detailed on Google and Whatspub. Mrs M says a businesses FB page is the best source of information.

Torquay is where we are based, and I had to get imaginative. The council helped out. Off the main drag by the marina is a brown tourist sign simply saying "Inns".

Here you will find a former GBG entry - The Hole in the Wall and its rougher brother, the Devon's Arms.  Both laying claim to being the oldest in town.

Hole in the Wall

Low Ceilings

Quirky Interior - including indoor shed

The Hole proved to be a typical seaside pub - full of quirky knick knacks and a comprehensive menu.  Timothy Taylor was on - and I shared a smile with the landlady who had demands for a top up from a elderly gent, only to watch him spill his bonus booze all over the flagged floor, as he wobbled back to his table.  A pyrrhic victory, if I ever saw one.

The Devon's Arms looked slightly intimidating from the outside and the only way I could convince Mrs M to come in was by referring her to previous patrons.

A Roll Call..... 

... of people who may have attended just the harbour

It was rough.  If you gauge roughness by middle aged couples who cannot have been married eating each other's faces off.  Difficult to know where to look, when they are sat at the bar and all tables face the bar.

Two ales on - Banks and Bays Brewery Topsail.  I didn't hold out much hope but you've guessed it - the Topsail was easily pint of the week.  A perfectly kept and delicious session bitter.

And help is at hand for pub tourists looking for the facilities.

I had a look.  It wasn't a toilet

Brixham provided a fine community pub for those prepared to do a bit of mountaineering from where the bus drops you off.

Oxygen required to reach the Queens Arms but well worth it.

Inside the Queens Arms

And will be handsome outside too..

The beer was good - I found a never seen before, out of production (according to Untappd) St Austell Belgian IPA named "Hybrid".  The cider was also worth experimentation - with at least 6 different ones available.

A snake-bite GBG Tick.  With sound advice from the beer garden.

Support All Locals.

11/10/22 - Broadsands to Greenway

Distance - 8 Miles

Geocaches - 8

Walk Inspiration - 40 Walks in Devon, Walk 20 

A final, ambitious walk in Torbay, before we set off for home.  Coastal miles are worth double and with hindsight, we probably should taken advantage of the escape plan that could have shaved an hour off.

We start at Broadsands Beach - a golden sanded bay with a couple of cafes and head inland. Under Brunel's viaduct and into Galmpton village. Access to the River Dart and quayside boat building yards at Galmpton Creek.

The viaduct looms like a bird of doom

Torbay Views

Rive Dart from the Galmpton Boatyards

Although we don't see much of it, the walk around Greenway is interesting enough on paper. We are on good, permissive paths in the National Trust owned Greenway House property. A Tudor manor house built for the half brother of Walter Raleigh and owned more recently by Agatha Christie. We hear the whistles of the steam locomotives that are emerging from a tunnel below us.

The views are impressive.

From high above

The walk back is along green lanes on a long distance path marked the Torbay-Dart link.  Through Churston Ferrers and a chance to terminate the walk early, although we would have missed the ups and downs of more coastal walking.

The Torbay-Dart Link Path

Elberry Cove, with Lord Churlstons C18th Bath House

No pub based refreshment on our return to Broadsands.  The cafe's menu is not going to compete with Brixham fish and chips, overlooking the harbour, in 16 degree sunshine.

10/10/22 - Torquay to Babbacombe

Distance - 5 Miles

Geocaches - 2 and a 6 Adventure Lab Caches

Pubs - 3

The Torbay area is not blessed with too many 2022 Good Beer Guide Pubs.  Going through the archives since 2017, I've managed to identify two additional pubs of interest that no longer make the grade, along with the sole survivor on route. Opening times are checked in Google. And WhatPub. 

It is Monday. The worst day for pub ticking.

The route combines two walks from Laurence Main's Pub Walks in South Devon. To give you an indication of when this was published, he spends an awful long time dissing Maggie Thatcher.

We can even start from the front door of our digs. Road walking leading to Kent's Cavern - a chargeable attraction of prehistoric caves - with a hidden green corridor called the Lincombe Slopes. This drops us nicely at the coast at Meadfoot Beach.

Meadfoot Beach

This was getting Laurence Angsty - Thatcher's Rock

The South West Coast Path.....

.....And a bit more of it

Into Babbacombe - a Torquay suburb. 

It transpires that the Good Beer Guide Tick - The Buccaneer - is closed on Monday. This, despite my meticulous research. Still, their loss in custom is our gain. There is nothing wrong with the steak baguette and Dartmoor Legend in the Babbacombe Inn next door. Similar architecture and the same views, as well.

Babbacombe in the Sunshine

Legend

We've decided that the walk back along a main road - that's also the bus route - is pointless. 

With time on our hands, we check out two former Good Beer Guide Ticks.

The Crown and Sceptre is to the far north of town. A handful of regulars, who all disappear to smoke in unison and a couple of pensioners who seize their moment of glory and get to explain to lost brummies how the Torbay buses work.  Honest enough boozer.

Crown and Sceptre, Babbacombe

Which leaves the Dolphin. And with hindsight, something I should have done myself.  No punters and the barmaid's child running wild does not make a great atmosphere. Positives -  The Otter Head was better condition than I had any real right to expect. Negatives - Halloween decorations up.  

Far too early for that sort of spooky nonsense.

But a taste of what's to come for the pub tickers, as the night's draw in.

Cobwebs in the Windows.  Must be October.

 

09/10/22 - The Thatched Tavern, Maidencombe

Distance - 3.5 Miles

Geocaches - 1

Walk Inspiration - 40 Coast and Country Walks in Devon

A short walk, that packs a fair bit into the three short miles. We may have made a mistake in stopping for lunch at the mid point. The hills are particularly fierce in this part of Devon.

Always looking for free parking, we start at a car park at the top of the Valley of the Rocks. Never has a place been more aptly named. It is a valley. It has rocks. It leads to the coast near Watcombe Head.

Valley of the Rocks

Maidencombe Beach benefits from having a lovely Cafe overlooking the waves. With the sun unseasonally shining in October, it was a fine place to spend time, looking at the dogs frolicking, as their owners (admittedly in wet suits) swam.

Maidencombe Beach

A little bit more coast walking to Mackerel Cove before heading inland and picking up one of the many permissive paths available. Walking appears to be encouraged at Maidencombe.

It all works out wonderfully, as we reach the Thatched Tavern at the exact point the bolt is scraped. No need to break stride, as we march up their path, to a booked table, by way of the peruse of the bar offerings.

Thatched Tavern

Settle on a Dartmoor Legend - ESB Bitter

As with the Valley of Rocks, the Thatched Tavern fits into the no-nonsense category of "it does what it says of the tin".  C17th, thatched, a front bar leads to a stylish dining room. If you asked a foreigner to describe a traditional British Inn, it wouldn't be too far from this.

The beer was good.  The food was exceptional. If I am ticking off pubs, Mrs M does the same with Sunday roasts. One that contains cauliflower cheese, parsnips and red cabbage as standard is going to score highly. With a point knocked off for the charge for extra gravy.

Although we avoided pudding, we still regretted the early stop. The road out the village is marked on the OS Map with two arrows of steep doom that were not in our favour.

The views from the top made it worth it.

A Section of Torbay

22/11/21 - Exeter Pub Crawl

Pubs - 6

Good Beer Guide Ticks - #624-626

Another day, another guide book.  Exeter is detailed in this 1999 tome, although the beer scene has moved on considerably.  I honestly can't even remember the Firkin chain, where the Fizgig and Firkin is no more.

A lot can happen in 21 years

With it being a Monday lunch in late Autumn, I'm sure that many of the 2022 Good Beer Guide entries will also be closed or opening at a time when we're not passing.

The best thing for me to do is to load the pubs from both books into Google Maps and see what we stumble upon when completing the Psycho-Geography that is Adventure Lab Caching.  The final stage drops us off at the pretty quayside.

That's the Topsham Brewery on the RHS - opens at 2pm.  Its midday.

A case of what we could have won, 2 hours too early for the Topsham Brewery.  Never mind, we'll have a walk along the Exe to the Mill on the Exe - a functional St Austell Pub, where the staff wear jaunty sailor uniforms and they have Hicks on cask.   A reminder from our trip to Cornwall this time last year, at the height of the ill-fated Tier System of lockdown.

Functional.  Nice Patio are over the Exe.

All the gang are here.  And a little Gem.

From there, Mrs M leaves me to go shopping.  Dangerous stuff.  I have a lot of inspiration and its pay-day tomorrow.  

Unfortunately, the unfortunately named Fat Pig becomes my 2nd GBG fail after the Topsham Brewery.  I checked Google Maps this morning and it said open at midday.  A check whilst outside at 1pm shows the listing has been updated and it's now closed Mondays and Tuesday.  

I swear they just wait for me to turn up at a new city and change the rules.

Looked my sort of place

With Mrs M not in tow, I could have broken my solemn vow to her that I won't spend money at JDW.  To be fair, the coaching house on the opposite side of the road looked a more interesting prospect.

Georges Meeting House

Or the White Hart - A Marstons (a long way from home)

Now I am too early for an Ale Club

Marstons Sunbeam in lovely condition

I finally get a non dubious GBG Tick at the Ship Inn.  Its positioned down an alley near the cathedral that makes for an impossible photograph.  The alley is too narrow.  There are too many shoppers.

It's one of those low beamed, ancient pubs that I instantly feel at home in.  And so did Francis Drake, according to the history.  The Otter Ale was absolutely perfect and enjoyed that much, that the only photo taken was my untappd checkin.

Waiting for Mrs M and her post shopping baggage handlers

Looking at the way the afternoon is going and of course, planning our evening meal around our location, we have time for just one more.  I'm out of pubs close by in the GBG and the pub crawl book.  The Great Western/Imperial double tick will have to wait for another day.

On the fly research shows that the Turks Head has just re-opened and is scoring high on the Google Review checkins.  Just around the corner from the Ship - we have nothing to lose.

It proves to be an inspired choice.  Easily pub of the day and I'll put money on it being in the 2023 Bible.

Next to the Guild Hall

Its a delightful place - maintaining both an old school charm and new craft bar feel - if such a thing is possible.  Sited over a couple of floors, there's even a brewing rig setup at the far end.

I learn how to say Red Ale in Welsh.  Tiny Rebel Cwtch rhymes with Butch.  I enjoyed it that much on cask that I very quickly went back to the bar for a repeat.

Then I found they had Deya Steady Rolling Man on keg.  

Learn about Beer Styles at the Turks Head

Enough to set us up for the ill-timed student-special train back to Exmouth for our tea.

I was sanguine about Exmouth's premier fish restaurant, Rockfish, being closed on Mondays.

Eating, as well as drinking, not the easiest at the start of the week.

And I knew the Globe is over the road.

21/11/21 - Topsham Good Beer Guide Ticking

Good Beer Guide Ticks - #621 to #623

I'd never heard of Topsham before doing the research into our final 2021 mini-break.

It's a town worthy of inclusion in the Camra book - 50 More Great Pub Crawls.  It also has 3 entries in the 2022 GBG.

Today's Guide

A GWR return from Exmouth for some early Sunday evening pub ticking - when only the most optimistic of pub crawlers venture out to do battle with poor time keepers and poor updaters of office hours.

The Bridge, Bridge Hill, Dartmoor Jail Ale

Its a fair old walk from the station, down a dark country lane.  Google maps says it opens at 5:30pm.  Our arrival is timed to near perfection - at 5:37pm.

Its all in darkness.  The front door is rattled.  The side door is rattled.  Eventually, signs of life are found down the bottom of the sprawling buidling.  This may have been the Malthouse, where I find a lady opening the door.

"Are you open?" I ask, not wanting to set Mrs M off moaning about how I ought to check facebook pages before making her walk any distance.  "Not quite, but we soon will be" is the reply.

I am in conversation with a descendant (great grandaugter?) of the family who have run this place for six generations, since 1897.

Whilst she - and her associate - valiantly work out how the contactless machine works, I take a couple of photos before deciding which comfy sofa I want to commandeer.  

Homely

We plump for a settee nearest the bar.  Which has no taps on.  To decide, a beer menu is available on a roaming chalk board that is displayed to all future punters.  I play safe with a Jail Ale - which is dispensed by gravity in the cellar.  

Being so close to the bar - we get into a lovely conversation with the two ladies.  They are interested in where we have been, our AirBnB woes and share some details of the history of the pub and how they have been affected by covid.  Alas, the main part of the pub is off limits for exploring.  The write ups promise plenty to be discovered.

We have peaked early but there is more work to do in town.  

Rudely, we didn't even ask about the Queen's Visit.  The only time she has been in a pub.  

Unlike her mother.

Lights were on when we exited.

The Globe Hotel, Fore Street, St Austell Proper Job

Next in the Pub Crawl book was the Lighter Inn - a Hall and Woodhouse Inn.  We are within Google Advertised Hours, but as I approach the front door - I see the retreating shadow of the staff member who has closed it down for the evening.

Badger Beer another Day

The Globe Hotel is not too far along the road.  

Gastro Pub Ahoy!

This is a posh Gastro Pub/Hotel owned by the St Austell brewery that has two things that save it.

1) A lovely beer garden, tee-pee covered, with heating.  A pint can be enjoyed without disturbing the interior diners.  

2) A top quality Proper Job.  The type of pint that you can see how much liquid you have consumed per gulp, via the tide marks in the lacings.

Pint of the Week

Exeter Inn, High Street, Proper Job

Further along the high street and the Salutation, Passage House Inn and Lord Nelson are all firmly closed up - some expectantly, others less so.

This leaves the final GBG Tick at the earthy Exeter Inn.  A community local.  I know this, as everyone was watching the darts on massive TVs, with a separate sound system.

A bit too close to the Exeter Inn

More Proper Job, which didn't quite hit the heights of the Globe Inn.  I shall check my on line banking.  It was probably 30% cheaper.

A short walk back to station and a night cap at the Grapevine.  Devon Saisons all round.