21/11/21 - Topsham Good Beer Guide Ticking

Good Beer Guide Ticks - #621 to #623

I'd never heard of Topsham before doing the research into our final 2021 mini-break.

It's a town worthy of inclusion in the Camra book - 50 More Great Pub Crawls.  It also has 3 entries in the 2022 GBG.

Today's Guide

A GWR return from Exmouth for some early Sunday evening pub ticking - when only the most optimistic of pub crawlers venture out to do battle with poor time keepers and poor updaters of office hours.

The Bridge, Bridge Hill, Dartmoor Jail Ale

Its a fair old walk from the station, down a dark country lane.  Google maps says it opens at 5:30pm.  Our arrival is timed to near perfection - at 5:37pm.

Its all in darkness.  The front door is rattled.  The side door is rattled.  Eventually, signs of life are found down the bottom of the sprawling buidling.  This may have been the Malthouse, where I find a lady opening the door.

"Are you open?" I ask, not wanting to set Mrs M off moaning about how I ought to check facebook pages before making her walk any distance.  "Not quite, but we soon will be" is the reply.

I am in conversation with a descendant (great grandaugter?) of the family who have run this place for six generations, since 1897.

Whilst she - and her associate - valiantly work out how the contactless machine works, I take a couple of photos before deciding which comfy sofa I want to commandeer.  

Homely

We plump for a settee nearest the bar.  Which has no taps on.  To decide, a beer menu is available on a roaming chalk board that is displayed to all future punters.  I play safe with a Jail Ale - which is dispensed by gravity in the cellar.  

Being so close to the bar - we get into a lovely conversation with the two ladies.  They are interested in where we have been, our AirBnB woes and share some details of the history of the pub and how they have been affected by covid.  Alas, the main part of the pub is off limits for exploring.  The write ups promise plenty to be discovered.

We have peaked early but there is more work to do in town.  

Rudely, we didn't even ask about the Queen's Visit.  The only time she has been in a pub.  

Unlike her mother.

Lights were on when we exited.

The Globe Hotel, Fore Street, St Austell Proper Job

Next in the Pub Crawl book was the Lighter Inn - a Hall and Woodhouse Inn.  We are within Google Advertised Hours, but as I approach the front door - I see the retreating shadow of the staff member who has closed it down for the evening.

Badger Beer another Day

The Globe Hotel is not too far along the road.  

Gastro Pub Ahoy!

This is a posh Gastro Pub/Hotel owned by the St Austell brewery that has two things that save it.

1) A lovely beer garden, tee-pee covered, with heating.  A pint can be enjoyed without disturbing the interior diners.  

2) A top quality Proper Job.  The type of pint that you can see how much liquid you have consumed per gulp, via the tide marks in the lacings.

Pint of the Week

Exeter Inn, High Street, Proper Job

Further along the high street and the Salutation, Passage House Inn and Lord Nelson are all firmly closed up - some expectantly, others less so.

This leaves the final GBG Tick at the earthy Exeter Inn.  A community local.  I know this, as everyone was watching the darts on massive TVs, with a separate sound system.

A bit too close to the Exeter Inn

More Proper Job, which didn't quite hit the heights of the Globe Inn.  I shall check my on line banking.  It was probably 30% cheaper.

A short walk back to station and a night cap at the Grapevine.  Devon Saisons all round.