22/03/26 - Stile End and Barrow from the Coledale Inn

My Round at the Coledale 

We had two walks planned from our base in Braithwaite. Both got us up on the fells. The classic "Coledale Round" looked a little beyond our newest recruit to mountain walking.

The ladies in my life - Mrs M and Daughter M

Instead, we went into the middle of the high ridge walk, with a couple of steep but less lofty peaks. 

Stile End, despite being distinctive and very steep, is not a Wainwright. We conquered this with some grumblings but I could not convince the party to attempt Outerside. A drop down and another stiff climb for what - and I quote - "Is exactly the same view". Outerside a Wainwright that doesn't get a tick this time.

We get involved in a mountain race - having no choice but to clog up the thin path to Barrow. This is a steady climb, with most of the height already gained. The views here are immense - the towns of Keswick and Braithwaite, along with Derwent Water and Bassenthwaite Lake.

Mountaineers - one and all

All downhill to the pub, via the only geocache of the day.

Mrs M with her thumb over the lens

I had a wonderful afternoon at the Coledale Inn 9 years ago. I'd completed day 2 of the Inn Way to the Lake District. The pub is the first place you hit as you come off the fells. The sun was shining and the beer garden has an elevated view over the town. I spent an afternoon drinking Yates beer and trying to convince other walkers not to pass on by.

Coledale Inn - 10/10 review on PubsGalore after a wonderful afternoon

Yates may have long gone but the pub is now in the Good Beer Guide. Three real ales on, all from the Lakes. I settled on Corby Blonde for my visit.

I needed more than one to settle my nerves, as I was in the chair for lunch. Steak and chips is now £35.

I had the significant women in my life hypnotised not to look at the "From the grill" section of the menu.

I should have extended the mind-tricks to the £10 puddings.

Walk Details

Distance - 4 Miles

Geocaches - 1

Walk Inspiration - Jarrold, Northwest Lakes, Walk 13

20/03/26 - The Kirkstile Inn, Loweswater

Mellbreak-ing Bad

The Kirkstile Inn has to be one of the best pubs in the land. But you have to earn those pints of Loweswater Gold and boy, did we earn them.

This actually could have been a really pleasant walk - without the nausea and the relentless traipse up the side of a mountain on indistinct paths. With this route from the normally rather pedestrian Country Walking Magazine.

Starting from the pub, we walk the western flanks of Mellbreak - following the Mosedale Beck. It's a pleasant farm track, where the only other signs of life are sheep.

Easy Walking

To get that Wainwright Tick - we need to get to the top. My suspicions were aroused in plotting the walk - just before Mosedale Holly Tree (the only tree marked on an OS Map, fact-fans) there is an arrow straight minor path running straight up the side of the mountain. Of course, in reality, there is nothing there. A man in a blue jacket follows a similar marked path to the north but I can only imagine the terrain is equally as tough. All of us stop for regular breathers/the chance not to throw up.

You can ask Mrs M if Mellbreak was worth it

Honestly, the views at the bottom are just as impressive

The descent is better - and it simply leads us to the good path we previously left. 

Mappiman, relieved to have got us down to Black Beck

The return to the pub is as good as walking can get. We simply have to follow the shoreline of Crummock Water along soggy but excellent paths. The Grasmoor reflections in the still water are stunning. There is a little jut of land out in the water, Low Ling Crag, which brought me to tears on my last visit, 9 years ago. The emotion expressed was possibly as much to do with the liquid lunch at the Kirkstile Inn, as I was walking away from it on that day.

Low Ling Crag - an "island", as the end of a causeway

Looking down Crummock Water

The pub is the reward - and the Kirkstile is a special place. In a hamlet, with a small number of buildings and a church, this is a real walkers pub where you can come straight off the fells. If the weather is good - and it was - a lovely, sheltered beer garden is perfect. Most punters with maps out, playing i-Spy and naming the surrounding fells.

It's also the home of the aforementioned Loweswater Gold. A former Champion Beer of Britain. So good, Mrs M moved off from her regular fruit based drinks and declared it "inoffensive". High praise indeed.

Water chaser and the patient wait for fish-finger sandwiches

Export options are available.

Meet the gang

Walk Details

Distance - 6.5 Miles

Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine, May 2015, Walk 15

Geocaches - 0 

17/02/25 - Dow Crag

Walna Scar Road - only for the fearless

Every year, I like to walk at least one Wainwright. I currently sit at 87 completed. There are 214. I need to get a wriggle on.

Today's walk begins at the end of Walna Scar Road. My god. Whoever designed it clearly wasn’t thinking of a Seat Ateca. Should I ever attempt it again, I’ll be sure to take a longer run-up—and possibly say a small prayer.

As we set off, snow flurries dance in the air. A picturesque sight, but also a reminder that even the slightest dusting would have left us stranded at the top, contemplating a new life in the fells. "Take up walking to lower your stress levels," they say. Right.

For cars, Walna Scar road runs out at a rather large car park. Now Ringo Controlled and they must have put a mast in somewhere. Didn't stop at least three cars winging it. Yellow penalty notes on drivers side windows are going to ruin your afternoon. At least I know the app works.

From this point on, its a historical pack horse track that leads from Coniston to the Duddon Valley.  A gentle introduction to the days walking.

Ruby on Walna Scar Road - Dow Crag behind

We head North West to Goat Tarn. Photos taken - the Hause behind our access point to the tops.

Mrs M unconvinced there is a path

But look, she is on it and above me

Few photos from this point on. It all gets a little survivalist. On a summer's day, this would have been a near perfect introductory walk to the fells. Slightly challenging, but once the height is gained, a great ridge walk with some super views over the Coniston Massif. 

In February - and contrary to the forecasts - the wind was fierce. Dry your eyes fierce. Now you know why everyone coming in the opposite direction is so rosy cheeked fierce. On completion Mrs M asks if her face is a red as mine. Wind blasted.

The last walk photo..... I'm going for a walk and I may be some time

Even Geocaches needed to be ignored. Not that I could feel my fingers to open tupperware boxes.

But every step down is a step out of the wind. And prizes await once we toboggan back to town, hoping to Christ we don't meet anyone coming in the opposite direction.

The Black Bull, Coniston

I've got many favourite pubs, but the Black Bull has to be in my top 10. Bluebird Bitter is available in bottle conditioned format for export, but it doesn't taste the same as on cask, in its place of birth. Bluebird XB, its slightly stronger brother, is rarely seen elsewhere.

This, and a roaring fire, a fitting reward to a fine day.

The Line Up in the Black Bull. If you are on the bus, go for Old Man

Walk Details

Distance - 6.5 Miles

Dow Crag Height - 2552 Feet

Geocaches - Too Windy to Look

Walk Inspiration - Pocket Mountains - 40 Walk in the Southern Lake District

08/07/24 - Yr Eifl

We can see the pub from here

We selected the best weather day to challenge the mountains. Yr Eifl is a range of three peaks at one end of the Nefyn Bay. Garn For, Garn Ganol (the highest at 1850ft) and the hill fort of Tre'r Ceiri. Town of the Giants.

The walk is not without its minor challenges. Deceptively easy on a low incline track too start, its hands on rocks scrambling to the top of Garn Ganol. 

Pictures can tell the story.

Car Park Standing Stones and 2/3rds of Today's Work

Easy Mountain Access

Shelter view at Garn For

Hands on Rock on Garn Ganol

Views all along Lynn Peninsula.  And Lunch. 1 Banana.

Final peak - Tre’r Ceiri Hillfort

My planned route would have taken us to the pub at Llithfaen. But not with these opening hours;

Tafarn Y Fic a Monday No Go

Instead, we console ourselves with what we could have won.Through binoculars, we can see the stemmed glasses of San Miguel* at the legendary Ty Coch Inn. No one who ever visits will ever forget it. 

We made the walk on the evening - where we can see what we conquered earlier in the day.

A later in the week revisit**, a must, where it will be blogged.

A View from a Pub Bench

* exaggeration, we can see the building

** if the rain stops 

Walk Details

Distance - 4.5 Miles

Geocaches - 2 and an Adventure Lab Cache

Walk Inspiration - BBC Countryfile

02/12/23 - Cat Bells from Little Town

The first snows of Winter for my 84th Wainwright

Things could have been worse. By the end of the day, the good people of Ambleside, Coniston and Grasmere are opening villages halls to house stranded motorists.

Coniston, Lake District this afternoon.#uksnowpic.twitter.com/YYvWNhQwyL

— MetWatch ☈ (@MetWatchUK) December 2, 2023

We're only 15 miles away in Keswick and after a fun packed, three generational weekend of good food, wine and well rehearsed Karaoke routines are only slightly jealous that we couldn't have extended the time away by being snowed in.

The dusting did present minor issues. 

"Where to park?" is always a concern in the Lakes. The guide book says Hawes End, which Google Maps shows as "Permanently Closed". So we hatched a plan. Mrs M to drop me off at Little Town and I'd complete a linear walk back to Keswick. The single track lane became increasingly hairy - so we both decided I would be dropped off underneath Barrow, increasing the walk-in distance but leaving us with a better chance of transportation back to Worcestershire.

She abandoned me

 Just the one Wainwright to conquer.  Cat Bells.  My 84th.

Cat Bells is a fell in the English Lake District in the county of Cumbria. It has a height of 451 metres (1,480 ft) and is one of the most popular fells in the area. It is situated on the western shore of Derwentwater within three miles (five kilometres) of the busy tourist town of Keswick. Its distinctive shape catches the attention of many visitors to the Lakes who feel compelled to climb to the summit after seeing it from the viewpoint of Friars' Crag on the opposite side of Derwentwater. The Lake District writer and walker Alfred Wainwright acknowledges the popularity of Cat Bells among fellwalkers of all abilities by saying:

"It is one of the great favourites, a family fell where grandmothers and infants can climb the heights together, a place beloved. Its popularity is well deserved: its shapely topknott attracts the eye offering a steep but obviously simple scramble."

Getting access from Little Town proved inspired. A slow and steady climb up Yewthaite Combe, an easy route.  

Crossing Newlands Beck to get to Little Town

Looking West from Yewthwaite Comb

First glimpse of Derwent Water.  No boats running in December

Looking South, back at Cat Bells on the descent

The Cat Bells Toposcope

The descent was much harder.... I have all the gear but little idea, with walking poles and two different types of spikes left at home. As undignified as it was, a fair amount was down on my backside. Slippage, and I would have taken any number of other walkers out - who are all coming from the Keswick direction.

Hawes End reached, where a handy man in a van with Google Pay sells coffee, warming hands for the Cumbrian Way to deliver me back into town through Lingholm.

Where the pubs await.

Saved for another blog but with a sneak beer board preview;

Don't worry - I didn't

Walk Details

Distance - 7 Miles

Geocaches - 2

Walk Inspiration - Jarrold 56 North and West Lakeland, Walk 6 

06/05/23 - Rannerdale Knotts, Whiteless Pike and Wandope

 Finding my limits on the eastern path from Wandope

Time to pick off a few more Wainwrights and a valuable lesson learned for my future self. Rather than actually pick a route at random - have a look at the complexity and height gain.

This is the closest I have got to giving up, lying down and waiting for someone to come to the rescue.

The walks is in one of the most beautiful parts of the Lake District, Buttermere. I was last here on the Inn Way to the Lake District and took the time for an afternoon nap on a little spit of headland jutting into Crummock Water. On awakening, I got a little emotional at the beauty and had a little cry. It was nothing to do with the lunch time four pints of Loweswater Gold at the Kirstile Inn.

The walk is meant to start at a little free parking area at the bottom of Rannerdale Knotts. I am early, but it is Saturday on a bank holiday weekend and in the one bit of planning I do, I spot more space elsewhere.

My walk begins at Newlands Hause, opposite Moss Force.

Opposite Moss Force 

The guidebook does explain that this in intricate and occasionally off path. I recognise that I have to cross Mill Beck and this proves easy enough with walking poles to balance on slippery stones.  Its then up and up to Rannderdale Knotts - providing superb views across the lakes.

Buttermere and Crummock from the end of Rannderdale Knotts

The descent is steep but short and the true start of the walk is found.  Yep, the car park is full.  I made the correct decision.

Doubling back on myself along Squat Beck, the bluebells are out if force. A roped walkway avoiding unnecessary trampling. Fleece off, predicted thunderstorms failing to materialise, this is as good as the day gets.

Through the Bluebells

I can see Whiteless Pike and convince myself that I am not going up the huge lump looming over it.

This is, of course, Wandope. 51st out of 214 in terms of height. It's a relentless plod. Fell runners in both directions laugh at my lack of fitness.

Whiteless Pike - dropping off to climb Wandope (peak to the right)

Then it all goes slightly wrong. The path east off Wandope (running past the hanging valley of Addacombe Hole) is a feint dashed line on the map. I get to the edge and look for it and there is nothing on the ground - just the steepest drop I have ever seen.

I am unsure what to do. It doesn't look safe, but I have no other way than forward, unless I go back the way I came.

Tentatively, I head "off piste", half hoping one of the other walkers will see me and talk me down.

After a very nervous start, a sole footprint is spotted in the peat and there is the faintest of paths dropping straight down along a thin ridge. Even with walking poles, I decide the only way to descend is on my backside, using the poles as some sort of breaking oar.  

Sliding down starts as a good idea, if a little unglamorous, until my trousers ride up.

I am now wearing my testicles as ear-rings.  

Getting to the bottom at Addacombe Beck, I see that I am supposed to do another climb - Ard Crags and Knott Rigg.

There's simply nothing left in the tank, but thankfully, I do have an escape route. The path running underneath Bleak Rigg will return me to where I crossed Mill Beck and a short climb back to the car.

Hugging the valley floor for as long as possible

I've never stopped so many times on a walk. My average speed, 1.23 MPH.    

Once back in civilisation, I investigate other people's experience of this route. I have read of a few who have walked up this killer path to Wandope.  

They all vow "never again".

I also google steepest incline safe to walk and find this;

An able-bodied person might go up an incline that is 45-50 degrees without the need of a harness, spotter, safety handles, or restraint. People who have excellent balance and great centers of gravity fall into this group of people who can climb such things unassisted.

The descent from Wandope is 40-49 degrees.

Walk Details

Distance - 8 Miles

Duration - 5 hours

Average Speed - 1.23 MPH

Height Gain - 3120ft

Walk Inspiration - Walking the Wainwrights, Graham Ulney, Walk 54 

 

Geocaches - 0

16/10/22 - Pen-Y-Ghent

Distance - 7 Miles

Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine, July 22, Walk 20

Geocaches - 5

Other Yorkshire 3 Peaks - Whernside, Ingleborough

Third day of the long weekend and the third mountain. For my money, Pen-Y-Ghent is the most handsome of the Yorkshire 3 peaks. As its a Sunday, this is also the shortest walk of the trio.  Everything is meticulously planned for maximum pleasure.

Back to Horton-in-Ribblesdale, short road walking to the Church and out into the countryside, via Horton Scar.

Horton-in-Ribblesdale Church, with Pen-Y-Ghent looming on it's shoulder

Geocaching on Horton Scar

There's no problem with route finding. A flagged path leads ever upwards, although its not always clear how you actually get to the top. Transpires that the path runs around the back of "the snout" and there's some hands on rock scrambling required. Nothing a 53 year fueled by a full English cannot manage.

Easy route finding

But how do you get up the shapely snout?

An absolute minimal amount of time on the top - once the trig point is touched, a photo is taken of a group of youth (their camera not mine, I am not a weirdo, will look on the gram for it later, OK maybe I am) and I am marching back down the Pennine Way. Super views and easy navigation.

Walking down the Pennine Way

A geological feature to break up the walk. Who wouldn't want to know what happens to Hull Pot Beck? I'm unsure whether I have seen a stream disappear into nothing on a map before.

Nature's Magic Trick?

Turns out it disappears into a great big hole in the ground.  Where the water goes next, anyone's guess!  

Hull Pot Beck - Side On

Hull Pot - End On

And then its just a mile and half of walking between stone walls. Every step savoured as every step brings me closer to Microsoft Teams misery.  

Its been a fine weekend of good Yorkshire walking and good Yorkshire drinking.

The Yellow Brick Road to on-line collaboration software

15/10/22 - Ingleborough from the Crown, Horton-in-Ribblesdale

Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine, July 22, Walk 19

Geocaches - 4

Distance - 11 Miles

Yorkshire 3 Peaks - Whernside

Torrential rain is not what you want to hear lashing against your B&B window, when you know you have a 5 hour walk ahead. The forecast had it going on all day and its rather a nice surprise to find it blown over by the time I have had my breakfast rated on Facebook.  

People Liked the bean separation.  But disliked the raw black pudding.  And "toast"

A short drive from Gigglewick to Horton-in-Ribbesdale, which has everything needed.  Paid parking, which can be for the 48hours.  A pub.

Country Walking Magazine suggests that Ingleborough is the superstar of the Yorkshire Three peaks.  They go as far as to say that if the mountains were Destiny's Child, Ingleborough would be Beyonce.

I'm not so sure - its a long entry walk from Horton - and you do pass some stunning geological features on route but for my money, Pen-y-Ghent is the most handsome.

Ingleborough, from the approach

The walking is (relatively) easy. The gradients are kind, as I walk through the limestone pavement of Sulber and continually climb on well flagged paths, keeping my boots nice and dry. Its only the final approach that can be described as "lung busting".

No hanging around at the top - its exposed, the winds are viscous and the rain starts up.  Two summit geocaches have to be shunned - it's simply too dangerous to go looking under rocks on the edge of a mountain.  

From the top of Ingleborough

Drop down the southern side of the mountain to Little Ingleborough and work my way to geological items of interest.

Gaping Gill - a 100 metre deep pothole - is not going to show much at ground level. Have a google. Or come back in May, when the potholing club will lower you down on a chair.

A little further on is Trow Gill, which provides a suprise for the unaware. The path winds down through a narrow path between 200ft cliffs. Very reminiscent of Lud's Church in the Peak District, and just as slippy underfoot.

Trow Gill, as it opens out

Easy walking back through limestone pavements to pick up the walk-in route at Sulber. The return to Horton shows what needs to be conquered tomorrow - Pen-Y-Ghent.

Tomorrow's Adventure

5.5 hours and 11 miles after setting off, I am ready for refreshment. Like the announcement of a new pope, I took the smoke rising from the Crown's chimney as a positive sign. 

The Crown, Horton in Ribblesdale - For Sale Sign had me worried

All punters were ramblers, so there was a decent buzz of post walk chatter in the main room.

The Black Sheep was pouring rather well.

Post Walk Refreshment