Sunday 3 December 2023

03/12/23 - Castlerigg Stone Circle for a return to the pubs of Kewsick

 A dismal cirque, of Druid stones upon a forlorn moor


Not my words, but John Keats from his sonnet, Hyperion.

What a grump, he should have visited after snow.

My walk starts from town - the return providing me some Keats style commentary on the Crafty Baa micro pub, where we managed to get reprimanded twice before I had knocked the froth of my beer.

But first the walk.... a disused railway line taking me east and over the river Greta, climbing an icy lane.

On the Way to the Stones
Tempted, but an icy bum awaits

Access to the stones is through a kissing gate. I have fresh snow to crunch underfoot and the sun trying its best to rise over the mountains in the far distance.  AI can provide a summary;

Imagine standing amidst the hauntingly beautiful landscape of the Lake District, where the ancient whispers of history linger in the air. Here, nestled in the remote reaches near Keswick, lies the enigmatic Castlerigg Stone Circle, a relic from the Neolithic period, dating back over 5000 years.

The very isolation of Castlerigg contributes to its mysterious ambiance. The stones, weathered by centuries of wind and rain, stand sentinel in a timeless dance with the elements. Their purpose remains shrouded in the mists of time, adding an extra layer of intrigue to this ancient site.

As you explore the circle, consider the celestial choreography at play. The stones are aligned with the sun and moon, creating a cosmic connection that transcends the ages. It's a mesmerizing dance between the ancient builders and the celestial bodies, imbuing the site with an otherworldly energy.

Step into the realm of spirituality and ritualistic practices that may have unfolded within the stone circle. The air is thick with the echoes of ceremonies lost to time, inviting your imagination to conjure visions of ancient rites and sacred gatherings.

Local folklore weaves its own tapestry around Castlerigg. Legends speak of mystical occurrences, spirits, and unexplained phenomena. These tales, passed down through generations, infuse the site with a sense of the supernatural, making every visit an encounter with the unknown.

Photographs capture the play of light and shadow among the stones, especially during the ethereal moments of dawn and dusk. The stones, weathered yet resolute, take on an almost spectral glow, enhancing the overall mysterious atmosphere.

Visitors share stories of feeling an otherworldly presence, of being transported through time as they walk among the stones. These personal encounters contribute to the collective aura of mystery that surrounds Castlerigg.

As you delve into the pagan and druidic connections, you sense the ancient pulse of spirituality that permeates the landscape. Castlerigg becomes a bridge to a time when the boundaries between the earthly and the divine were blurred, a notion that adds to the overall mystique.

Castlerigg Stone Circle
Special Place

Snowy photos aren't easily going to represent this superb walk. It's easy going, yet remote - "climbing" Low Rigg to find ice skaters on Tewet Tarn. Surrounded by the amazing mountainous landscape of the Lake District at all times.

If you are not smiling, walking is not really for you.

Geocaching on Low Rigg
Digging geocaches out the Low Rigg Snow

Skating on Tewet Tarn
Unexpected Ice Skating Rink.... slightly more photogenic than Brum's Silver Blades

A fine approach back into town from the south. Having already blogged extensively about Keswick Pubs, I'll provide a quick update;

The new kid in the Good Beer Guide is the Fox Tap. Check the opening times on their website, as Google Maps has it annoyingly detailed as a 2pm opener on a Saturday and closed on a Sunday. Aptly situated down Brewery Lane and the outlet for Keswick Brewery. Currently, a hidden gem and you are more likely to get a seat than at the high street pubs.

Fox Tap, Keswick
Give it a few years, and the GBG will provide somewhere new to try

Where the veritable Dog and Gun, is still doing a roaring trade. If you haven't got a dog, you can presumably apply for one outside. Including someone who took up even more space by having a yapper in a buggy. Greene King, but with a lot of independent Keswick brews. I was pleased to get reacquainted with Cumbrian Ales Loweswater Gold.  Even if the only spare space was bar hanging in front of the contactless machine. 

Dog and Gun, Keswick
Goulash Ahoy!

Easily the pick of the pubs is The Wainwright. Both of my weekend walks found me here on completion. Squeezing in at the back bar, blocking access on the high bar stools but easily getting into conversations. When there was no conversation to be had, you could watch the sport on the TV.  Mountaineering.

The beer is exceptional. Pint of the weekend, Fell Brewery Tinderbox West Coast IPA on cask.

The Wainwright, Keswick
Survived snowy mountains?  Celebrate with a 6.3% banger
The Wainwright, Keswick
Keswick's Pub of Choice

My son-in-law-in waiting had spotted Crafty Baa and Kitchen as a destintaion. He knew his girlfriend's dad would be both impressed by his research and a bar offering over 100 worldwide beers.

Crafty Baa
Micro Pub, owned by someone who loves woodcraft

Crafty Baa Beer Board
Pick the bones out of that list

They are the winner of the best AA Pub of the year and won't need to take advice from a middle aged geocaching blogger but I do think I know a thing or two about pubs;

In a short space of time, we were berated twice by a member of staff who had the same relationship with customer service as Boris has to the truth. Our crimes? Pulling high chairs up to barrel. Not allowed. So we moved to an area of the bar unknowingly reserved for the DJ for more reprimands. Admittedly, we had missed the tiny sign saying MC Baa was coming on at 8pm, but there is a way to talk to customers. I mentioned this to who I took to be the owner, only for grumpy-trousers to overhear and then claim none of these conversations actually happened.

If they question the verity of this engagement, maybe they can take another suggestion. When you have over 100 bottles, don't ask the customers to find their own from the fridges. 

Or maybe they could get an App, like the gloriously named Chief Justice of the Common Pleas over the road :-)

Walk Details

Distance - 7 Miles

Geocaches - 3

Walk Inspiration - Walks in Mysterious North Lakeland, Walk 9


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