07/08/26 - Digby's Tap, Sherborne

The Host Knows

Our latest dog-sit brings us to Cucklington. It's quite possible over the three-day weekend that we may be able to do a walk in three different counties.

We start in Dorset. During the introductions and our host listens to my planned walks at Castle Cary and Bruton. I can tell he is unimpressed and ask him where we should go. Shaftesbury is mentioned, but we have recreated bread advents. Then he says "Sherborne". We've never been. Plans are changed.

We can tell on the drive in to the Long Stay Car Park that this is our sort of place. History seems to be dripping off the streets. As you could expect from a town with two castles, the architecture is both ancient and impressive. An Adventure Lab Cache shows us some of the history;

Sherborne is a town with a remarkably long history, its origins stretching back to Roman times and the foundation of a Saxon cathedral in AD 705, which later became Sherborne Abbey. Its two castles tell a later story: the medieval Old Castle was built in the 12th century, while Sir Walter Raleigh acquired it in 1592 before abandoning it for the grander New Castle, completed in 1594. Centuries later, another famous name arrived in the form of Alan Turing, who attended Sherborne School from 1926 to 1931, long before his pioneering work in computing and codebreaking made him one of the 20th century's most important scientists.

Our walk is hastily compiled from Komoot and as usual, is wonderful. Green lanes out into the countryside to Oborne. The brown signs point us to an historic church just off the footpath. St Cuthberts arguably the smallest church in the land. But like "Oldest Pub", the rules are contested. In this instance, the remains can be classed as chancel to previously larger building.

Green Lanes

Single Roomer

Into Sherborne Park - a deer park, where all the deer have been taken in for the summer. This leads back to town, via the new castle. Sights are seen. Photos are taken.

Sherborne Country Park

Sherborne (new) Castle

Sherborne Abbey

There is one Good Beer Guide recommendation in town. Digby's Tap. I have to say, I was expecting a micropub, or a taproom on the side of a brewery. I couldn't be more wrong. The oldest parts of the building date from the C16th. Digby's Hotel was next door and this private residence was purchased in 1870. It outlives the hotel.

Thirsty Post Walkers

Three small rooms inside, under a low ceiling. It appears to be just as renowned for its food as its beer - which leads to a rather unpleasant pubby experience. An 11am opener, we were there before midday. Every single table has a reserved sign on it - ranging in times from midday to 13:30. This means the drinker has the choice of squatting or hogging the bar. Some do both. Some move tables as one becomes available with a later booking time. Increasing numbers of punters come in, going through the same rigmarole.

It means the small interior is in a state of perpetual motion. Our dog gets tripped over.

We can't wait to get out of there, to be honest.

My campaign for comfy seats in pubs gets a subchapter. 

Ban table reservations.

Walk Details

Distance - 7 miles

Walk Inspiration - Komoot

Geocaches - 5

10/07/26 - Uplyme to Lyme Regis

Borderland

I am guessing the river Lim marks the boundary of Dorset and Devon. Not that there is any condiment faux pas to be made regarding baked goods.

Being 100% honest, I wasn't necessarily up for this walk. We had completed an hour with the dog before the heatwave really struck home and the thought of going on a march in the midday sun was only appealing to mad dogs.

Yet Mrs M was right. She also found Gyros for lunch. So hats off to Mrs M for the encouragement.

The walk was meant to start in one of the Lyme Regis car parks - but in a bid to save £8, I notice a big blue cup of joy at the village of Uplyme - en route. This is the Talbot Arms and it has a large car park. It is only on our return that an A-board has been placed saying "Parking only whilst using the pub". We did use the pub and there was plenty of space.

The walk creator was really keen to show the Cannington Viaduct. Footpaths were available that would have avoided a there and back walk under it. An impressive architectural feat, especially when you consider it was only in operation for 62 years. It would take modern Britain longer than that to build it today.

Mrs M lightening the mood by commenting it's a fine place for suicides

Lanes, woodland and fields take us to the SWCP on Ware Cliffs, via a steep and perilous descent at Chimney Rock. 

Chimney Rock

On the SWCP, looking towards Golden Cap

Downhill all the way to the Cobb end of Lyme Regis. The conditions today making it impossible to ask Mrs M to channel her inner French Lieutenant's Woman.

View from the Cobb

An endless choice of refreshment options in Lyme Regis. Personally, we're never going to walk past a sign at the Royal Standard offering Gyros. It's been long enough that we've forgotten how tricky a pitta bread stuffed with sauce, chicken, salad and chips can be to eat. 

Our sauce covered beard (me), shins and walking papoose (Mrs M) are soon hidden away from the crowds as we follow yesterday's discovered River Lim Path all the way to the pub to pay for parking.

The Talbot Arms, Uplyme

A pleasant enough single roomer that could only be improved with air-conditioning. Three of the Otter Family of beers were available but it was far too 'ot to risk cask. I need to work on my pronunciation, but this Spanish Lout really hit the spot.

The blog is due a change of direction.

The Mahous are on me

Walk Details

Distance - 6 miles

Geocaches - 4

Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine, April 2022, Walk 2

09/07/26 - Charmouth to Lyme Regis, for the Brewery Tap

Diversion but Destination Remains the Same

Today's route was downloaded from the Cicerone book "Walking the Jurassic Coast". The good thing about the Cicerone books is that they publish regular online updates. As you would expect - this area has a lot more updates than others. The most unstable cliffs in the country.

Leading a group walk for five, it was a good job I made a visual inspection from Charmouth beach of the short route to Lyme Regis. The cliffs are now terraces, collapsing in stages. The footpath that would have crossed Black Ven and the Spittles is no more.

The SWCP - which we eventually followed - has been routed further inland. It requires more road walking than we would like but there is a pavement. And annoying golfers at Lyme Regis Golf Club is always to be encouraged.

Off the road and into the woods, next to Lyme Regis Golf Course

Eventually, the SWCP crosses the fairways

There's a stretch of path that is labelled on the OS Map as the Wessex Ridgeway. On the ground, it also has roundels for the East Devon Way - for which this stretch is either the end or the beginning. It's a wonderful path that hugs the river Lim, right into town. Past the pretty houses and if you look carefully, you may see decent sized trout bobbing around in the more still parts.

The hidden River Lim path through town

It also leads to the town's best drinking spot. Lyme Regis Brewery Tap (the brewery is actually in Axminster now) is in a converted mill, right on the water. 

Last time I was here, it was a paddleboard of three thirds. One of our party wanted to repeat the experience with a paddleboard of pints - a bitter, a New England IPA and a South Coast IPA.

I'm taking the photo - can you guess the inventor of the "pint tester board"?

The walk back to Charmouth could have been along the beach - but not at high tide. I think that we were all glad that a) 2:50pm was high tide and b) the 2:53pm bus was bang on time. That on time, gentle jogging to the bus stop was required.

Walk Details

Distance - 3.25 miles

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration 

07/07/2026 - The Royal Oak, Charmouth

Golden Cap Views

Charmouth becomes the base of our latest dog sit. 5 days in heatwave number 3 of 2026. We are unsure how many of the planned walks we will manage to execute but we start with the shortest.

Charmouth is a picturesque coastal village in west Dorset, located on the Jurassic Coast between Lyme Regis and Bridport, where the River Char meets the sea. Famous for its fossil-rich cliffs and dramatic scenery, the village has a fascinating history, including visits from royalty. Catherine of Aragon is said to have stayed here in 1501 before her marriage to Prince Arthur, while the most famous visitor was the future Charles II, who hid in Charmouth in 1651 after defeat at the Battle of Worcester while attempting to escape to France. An Adventure Lab Cache points us to the Abbot's House, which has provided accommodation for both of these royal guests. And considering one was Charles II, it's no wonder the Monarch's Way LDP runs through it.

Royal Patronage at the Abbot's House

We've walked Golden Cap several times but never from this direction. Alas, due to the heat and the dog we are in charge of being 70 (dog years) we decide to shorten the walk a mile from the summit. There are plenty of escape routes to make this possible. The walk follows the Monarchs Way over cliffs before walking back to town via Stonebarrow Hill.

The footbridge across the river Char, where it meets the sea

Looking back from the Monarch's Way, over Lyme Regis

Mrs M and Bluebell agreeing Golden Cap is just too far.

Back into town, for a choice of refreshments. Charmouth hosts two pubs, the Royal Oak and George, one cafe and one chipper.

We were told the Royal Oak is the posher of the two. This is probably due to the prices, as it is a Palmers tied house. Less than two weeks since I paid the most for cask at another one of their outlets, the Ferry Inn, Salcombe.

Not quite needing a mortgage for a round today

Legendary pub crawler Alan Winfield declared this the best pub in Charmouth, and I intended to discover whether his judgement still held true before the end of the week. Admittedly, his review was from 2000, when Charmouth could probably boast another six other pubs. I only have the George to visit.

The Palmers 200 was certainly in good enough shape to earn an early vote of confidence. A happy blend of locals and visitors created the right atmosphere, with tourists doing what tourists do best: loudly debating the cost of car parking (a conversation I was so desperate to join with). Add in the friendly staff, and the signs were already pointing towards Alan having got this one right.

Walk Details

Distance - 4.5 miles

Geocaches - 5

Inspiration - 100 Walks In Dorset, Walk 16

13/09/24 - Fontmell Down and Melbury Hill, Dorset

Route Confusion

It was the broken down lorry that caused mayhem. Commandeering the Spread Eagle Hill National Trust car park whilst it waited for recovery. The driver appealing to walkers to leave him space to transfer cargo.

I had two walks planned from here - Fontmell Down and Melbury Hill. In reality, I managed to dissect the two and develop my own route. I believe that it took in the highlights of this Area of Outstanding Beauty.

It simply means that rather than visiting Fontmell Magna (we were too early for the pub) we went to the equally wonderfully named but sadly dry Compton Abbas.

Top draw walking, as we completed a circuit of the hills.

A week of dog sitting completed. Olive will have to get used to one walk a day, instead of the three she has been enjoying at the hands of professionals.

Best weather of the week - Spread Eagle Car Park

Chalk Down tracks on Melbury Hill

Looking down the valley

Olive. With Mrs M.

Walk Details

Distance - 3 Miles

Geocaches - 3

Walk Inspiration - 40 Town and Country Walks in Devon.

09/09/24 - Ashmore, the highest village in Dorset

Finding the Wessex Ridgeway... and little else

The walk looked ok on the map.... and if its only a walk you are after then it was fine.  A woodland trail from Washers Pit through Ashmore Woods. Stubhampton Bottom leading to the Wessex Ridgeway.

The Wessex Ridgeway is a long-distance walking trail in southern England, part of the greater Ridgeway National Trail network. Stretching approximately 137 miles (220 km), the trail starts in Marlborough, Wiltshire, and ends in Lyme Regis on the Dorset coast. The Wessex Ridgeway follows ancient routes and tracks through picturesque landscapes, including rolling chalk downs, wooded valleys, and farmland, offering views of historic sites, ancient monuments, and charming villages.

Can't see the woods for the trees

Halfpenny Lane brings us the potential of 6 Geocaches and Ashmore. Mrs M on google looking for a tea room and teasing with just one hospitality venue of interest. We'll never know if the Gritchie Brewery has a tap room. The still maintained website simply states "Closed..... For Now".

A shame, as Dorset's Highest Village needed to be celebrated with something more than a half filled duck pond.

Walk Details

Distance - 6 Miles

Walk Inspiration - AA 1001 Family Walks, #103

Geocaches - 5 Found

 

07/09/24 - The White Horse, Hinton St Mary

 An Unusually Dark Batch of Exmoor Gold

Hinton St Mary is a tiny hamlet but a rich history. I'd already noticed on the OS Map the words "Roman Villa". There's also a story to rival the Elgin Marbles. A full Roman mosaic lifted by the British Museum, with the majority locked away in vaults. Only the central Christ-like image on display. The locals are demanding its return.

We're not here for the Romans. A simple walk, for a Saturday morning when the it has finally stopped raining. Not much to see, but the dog we are looking after enjoyed the woodlands and the drop down to the River Stour. Which has burst its banks, forcing Mrs M to wade through floodwaters, holding her socks and boots aloft. I should have taken a photo, but she'd have moaned that I wasn't helping her enough.

Down by the Stour

A short 3 miles and just in time for the village pub to scrape open the bolt.

Simple exterior, complex menu

There's a wedding on at the nearby church but it may always be this busy on a Saturday lunchtime. A menu that is relatively complex, should you only be looking for ham, egg and chips at a push. Our waitress does a fine job of upselling, suggesting if the meals are too large and fancy (read North of a score), we might enjoy olives. Or Crisps.

We'll stick to just drinks - Exmoor Fox, Gold and Butcombe original on. I have to get some sort of story out of a blog. How about consumer rights?

Decent pint, but was it Gold?

I am a veteran of JDW, who often have Exmoor Gold on. In case you are unaware, here is the product description;

A natural glorious golden colour; its juicy malt aroma has just a hint of vanilla with citric hops.It starts bitter-sweet in the mouth and finishes dry and intensely hoppy.

Is that pint a glorious golden colour? I discuss with a fellow beer drinker and mention it to the landlady. She replied that the brewery have told her to warn her customers that it is a particularly dark batch that has been delivered.

I consider myself warned but after a Fox in the Rising Sun (with glorious fish-finger sandwiches, food fans), I rather think they have put the Fox label on the Golden hand-pull.

Walk Details

Distance - 3 Miles

Geocaches - 1 abandoned, as it started raining

Walk Inspiration - 40 Town and Country Walks in Dorset

23/06/24 - The Cerne Abbas Giant

Dorset Fertility Folklore

This is the blog that possibly gets me a suspension. 

A new book - Weird Walk - is organised in chapters based on the seasons. We may have slipped into Summer but I've only just got around to the first route - Cerne Abbas, Dorset.

High on the hillside, a strange figure is carved into the chalk. Photo's really need to be from the air to do it justice.

Couldn't work out how to blur a photo

Weird Walk's Description;

His feet twist to the left in the manner of Egyptian figures, while his enormous manhood is flanked by stark ribs and topped with slightly wonky nipples.  An elongated arm runs to the right while the other bears a formidable 121ft club. The face is curiously framed, with eyebrows and mouth producing a slightly startled expression, as though you have interrupted the colossal geoglyph in a particularly arousing, yet private, cudgel-wielding session

It certainly holds appeal to tourists. A coach load of Poles taking group selfies stopped me from getting into the last space in Giant's View car park.

The walk is a simple circuit. Through Up Cerne and Minterne Parva before skirting under the Giant and through the Abbey Grounds.

Looking down over Dorset on the Wessex Ridgeway

The best view - apart from by hot air balloon - already experienced

The origins of the Giant are lost in time, but folklore dictates that it is a fertility symbol. Couples who want to conceive encouraged to get busy within the appendage, presumably performing for an audience looking on from the A352. And there's more. Inside the Abbey Graveyard is Silver Well. Its iron rich waters also said to aid conception. All this, and the finding of a 3ft eel in the well, are recounted in the Adventure Lab Cache.

Silver Well - Eel Free today

The final stage of the ALC is simply labelled "Pubs". That will do for me. Cerne Abbas was once a brewery town, supporting 17 pubs. Three remain, along with the Cerne Abbas brewery tap. Alas, not open of a Sunday, otherwise I am sure to have brought back presents.

It's a stunning, timeless village. The sort of place that would encourage Eastern Europeans to travel for days on a bus.

One of the first buildings encountered.

The Royal Oak simply couldn't be ignored. Free standing, ivy clad and with a sign saying "built 1540". Reportedly from materials stolen from the abbey after dissolution.  

Bench to the right had my name on it

Perfect for all seasons - outside seating for the warmer months - low ceiling, stone flagged floors for atmospheric cooler nights. The Cerne Abbas brewery wares are found.

A half of legless jester

Over the road is the Giant Inn - a must tick.

The Good Beer Guide may prove a lifetime challenge too big but at least I can say I have 100% of the UK's pubs where the sign contains an erect member.

Contained a half of Cerne Abbas Blonde

Art

Walk Details

Distance - 4 Miles

Geocaches - 2 and an ALC

Walk Inspiration - AA Pocket Walks of Britain, Walk 3 and Weird Walks

20/04/23 - West Bay, from the New Inn at Eype

 A coastal walk to Let England Shake 

Eype lies at the end of a dead end lane. There's a pub about half a mile from beach, parking nearly on the beach and a caravan park. And a church that played an unlikely role in a Mercury Prize winning album.

Eype - in most of its glory

Two walks plotted - we could have gone west back to Seatown but chose to go east to West Bay.  Fictional home of Danny Latimer (RIP) in Broadchurch.

A simple climb up and over West Cliff and before we know it, we are entering the sprawling metropolis. No end of refreshment options, not least the Good Beer Guide George.

Dropping down into West Bay

George is the blue building - other side of the harbour

A pleasant in-land stroll through a caravan park, alongside the River Brit brings us to the Palmers Brewery. Lanes back to the one of their tied houses, the New Inn at Eype.

But before we reach that, a curio. Eype Church - St Peter's - doubles as an arts centre. It was here in 2010 that PJ Harvey recorded the album, Let England Shake. It really is about time she went back to church. 

Midday Opener - we arrived at 12:07.  I am good at this.

Possibly a final 200 for a while, although I may convince Mrs M we need to visit the two Good Beer Guide pubs in Burton Bradstock. That said, the couple on the next table informs us the Three Horseshoes has Tally Ho! on.

It may well be the final 200.

Walk Information

Distance - 4 Miles

Geocaches - 2

Walk Inspiration - 40 Town and Country walks in Dorset

18/04/23 - Paddle Boarding in Lyme Regis

 Finding the best boozers in Lyme Regis

Three Good Beer Guide Ticks available, but only two are open before 2pm on a Tuesday.

Three is the necessary amount of pubs to declare it a crawl. With minimal research, we can add the Lyme Regis Brewery to the itinerary. As if so often the case, pub of the day.

An idyllic footpath running between two streams leads us to the Tap Room, next to a working watermill. A sun trap beer garden with a handful of benches. All the breweries offerings available at source. A King's pint of NEIPA soon turns into a trio of thirds. As much of the range needs to be sampled as possible.

A vanilla stout, an IPA and a Pale

Lyme Regis Tap

Such fine beers, such a fine establishment, I toyed with becoming a full on fan boy and buying a branded hoodie.

Onto the two Good Beer Guide Ticks that a) both in Prime Position and b) directly opposite each other. Are Palmers pubs prohibitively expensive? A chance to put it to the definitive test.

The Pilot Boat Inn is under scaffold, so not the easiest to identify. A nice little terrace running alongside but no seaview and the sun has to be in exactly the right position.

Palmers House with the full range (including Tally Ho!).  A 200 coming in at £6.

Palmers 200 at the Pilot Boat - 13:00 hrs according to my sun dial pint

Over the road and very much with a sea view is the St Austell tied Rock Point Inn. A proper tourist destination, this had little right to be so good for the casual drinker. I've never had Bath Ale Gem so well presented before but this was only an amuse bouche before the never knowingly turned down Proper Job. The barrell had just been changed. Hence the Gem.

Guide dog in training, Ivy, leading the way

And the cost for these nectars from the gods, in such fine surroundings.

£4.50.

Yep, Palmers are expensive.

Ivy, the Guide dog in Training, has been such a good pub dog, she gets rewarded with a free run before we catch the X53 home.

Frolicking in the shadow of Rock Point

17/04/23 - Good Beer Guide Pubs of Bridport

Why don't the locals (and cockneys) drink in Palmers Pubs? 

4 Good Beer Guide Pubs in Bridport - a town hosting the Palmers Brewery. Their beer synonymous with the region.

If you want to try the range, you could do a lot worse than The Ropemakers. A pub where there is usually some form of entertainment on - live music and mainly Jazz

Ropemakers, Bridport

In the three days we have been down, I have managed to sample the IPA and the Dorset Gold but mainly I have stuck to the ESB, 200. This pub is the first chance to sample its stronger brother, Tally Ho! found on cask for the first time.

Meet the Palmers Gang!

Superb beer - dark, nutty and 5.5% - the sort of strength that makes it impossible to work out how much it is a pint when the round with one other drink came to £17.

I know that gin is expensive, but this seems OTT. I'm in Dorset, not that London. Although, if you keep your eyes shut and listen to the majority of pub punters, you could be mistaken for thinking so.

No problems with calculating finance at the next place, where I fly solo. Mrs M and the Guide Dog in Training Ivy are settled and both are optimistic for when the kitchen opens at 6pm.

I head over the road for a quick check out of the Pursuit of Hoppiness.  A more perfect micro you couldn't hope to find, right down to its single room and quirky name. They seem to concentrate more on cask than keg here - with six lines on. Oakham Green Devil always a treat. £6, budget-fans.

In the Pursuit of Hoppiness

Alas, no unreserved tables at the Ropemakers. There is just enough time before the last bus (6.30pm!) to check out the Woodman. An honest drinkers freehouse on the edge of town, complete with Skittle Alley.

I get into a conversation with a gasper outside, keen to know where I am from and what I think of his town. I tell him I like the pubs and he replies that no locals use the Ropemakers. He does the thing with his fingers to indicate mucho mullah and insists that it's only tourists who drink in Palmers pubs.  Locals priced out.

He might be right but I'll continue to make the most of them.  

Who knows when I will be next in Dorset?

Saltaire Bitter contained within

PS - A footnote.

The eagle-eyed amongst you will have noticed that the Tiger Inn also needed ticking. I am nothing if not a completist, so 2 days later we were back in Bridport.

Another sturdy back street local, with an unusual array of cask.

Would be happy to call the Tiger Inn my local

A day of dialects... the barman couldn't translate my brummie twang and I failed to get the question "is Butcombe Cotswold Ram the new name for Rare Breed?" answered. Untappd offering no further information. A better beer was the Parkway Brewery Norwegian Blue. The pump clip offering no clue as to the style - just that it was named after one of Monty Pythons more famous sketches. 

Sometimes, you need to dive in and take a risk.

A taster confirmed it was a very good session Bitter

And on the subject of accents - I've never heard so many cockneys. And I have drank in the Pride of Spitalfields. All our fellow drinkers sounded like they had been born within ear-shot of the Bow Bells.

I thought if you wanted to find a cockney, you needed to go to Essex.