24/10/26 - Coventry Good Beer Guide Ticking

Pubs of All Types

8 years since my last visit to the the town where the planners finished what the Luftwaffe started. A ring-road to replace the medieval walled city.

After this length of time - there have been changes. My favourite - The Town Wall Tavern - is no longer a going concern. Which is a crying shame. Several new entries and a bit of a smorgasbord of pub types.

Starting with the obvious - The Flying Standard - a Wetherspoons. 

Mock Tudor

Absolutely packed at 2:15pm on a Saturday afternoon, with the most obvious tribe of drinkers Fulham fans. They either do not realise how far the ground is out the centre or have faith in Uber. Not a single seat to be had downstairs, I try my luck with my less than £3 pint of Exmoor Red upstairs. A single stool and shelf (happily marked with a number for app ordering) on the way to the ladies loos found. Easy to get into a conversation but not recommended. You feel like you should be on a register. 

Hops D'amour is a converted shop micro pub. If I was forced to bet on what the shop was, I would say sowing machines. There has to be a reason for the huge singer signs and the tables fashioned out of ex-machines. 

Micro Ahoy

What always amazes me about this country of ours is that you can travel 40 miles and no-one will understand you. In the first of two "lost in translation" moments today, I ask for a serviette to wipe the rain from my navigation aiding mobile phone. The barman, who bore an amazing likeness to Paul Calf, had genuinely never heard the word before. Napkin didn't work either but tissue produced the required item.

The beer was excellent, doing what micros should, by offering the unusual and/or international.

Out of the City Centre and I am thankful to the Good Beer Guide for pointing out The Broomfield Tavern. I would never have found this back street gem on my own.

What's behind the red door?

My hat manages to set one of the resident dogs off, who provided a sustained verbal assault against my sartorial choices. Which was unexpected when the majority of other punters were dressed as Morris Dancers. Zoom in to the bar and you will see how their performance is paid for.

All lined up

Hat removed, Fido silenced, this place will be memorable for two things. Drinks-wise - and I may have missed it but I don't think I did - this has no keg fonts at all. The choice is glorious cask or a bewildering choice of boxed cider. I cannot say I have ever seen this before, but with bottled Madri in the fridge, I am sure my eyes were not deceiving me.

A gloriously unusual Top Rat was taken to the real fire. A plum place to sup, as two elderly gentlemen waited to jump in my grave when I buckled up to face the elements. A phrase that has never travelled to Coventry, in my second conversational confusion today. I had to repeat three times before he understand what I was trying to say.

I ummed and arred about the Hearsall Tavern - it's away from the railway station but taking inspiration from the other pub tickers sharing their Storm Austen travel woes on this grim day - I decide to plod on.

Doesn't convey the internal mayhem

I never knew Coventry had an Irish Quarter but it's not the only authentic Irish Pub in the area. Mid terrace and like the Flying Standard (but for different reasons) absolutely packed on a Saturday afternoon. Full of blokes enjoying the sport in the main room. 

A spot at the bar secured to admire their famous Guinness - best in Coventry according to the reviews.

The Bass - whilst you can still get it - not too shabby either.

Bar hanging

   

22/10/26 - A Bristol Ring - Stage 2

Nothing much in East Bristol

The great thing about following a planned walk - such as A Bristol Ring - is you have no idea what you might discover en route. The problem comes when the answer, is not very much.

This is an OK walk - avoiding the suburbs by following woodland trails through Crew's Hole, the Brislington Brook and across The Coots to end on the Wells Road at Hengrove.

There is a pretty stretch along and over the Avon and lots of climbing through woodland on the cusp of turning into a mud-bath. I am pleased to have completed before Storm Austen.

The Start of Stage 2 - in case you wondered how far Briftol is

Over the River Avon

Bricked up tree in Brislington Woods

I knew there was nothing on route thanks to a fine example of Internet enshitification. To help the thirsty traveller find good beer, CAMRA used to have a free app that displayed recommended pubs on a map. A couple of years ago, this was discontinued and replaced with a web page offering the same functionality. Now that web page requires an explorer pass for 99p a month.

Those failed beer festivals are not going to pay for themselves.

Of course, I have the book - so prior to the walk, I was forced to spend half an hour working out whether I would be passing through Bristol locales, such as Bedminster, Kingsland or Redland.

My post-walk refreshment had to wait until I got back to the City Centre, for a couple of new-to-me pubs near Temple Meads.

The King's Head is a gorgeous, ancient city centre boozer which the guide says has the second oldest Victorian back bar known to the beards. Someone who has read the book cover to cover may be able to tell me which pub has the oldest.

Everything's gone green

Honours - including the first Telegraph top 500 pub found through advertising

A superb beer collection. In honour of the death of Bass, I went for a brewed in the Burton Union Thornbridge Old Badequella. An Old Ale that could have only been improved by a couple of extra ABV percentage. 

This, along with the full range of Tayto crisps, means I am sure to go again.

An honour that I could also bestow to the Jimi Hendrix adorned Bridge. 

Unmissable

Zoom in for the cheapest snacks in the Western Hemisphere

The decor was old concert posters of better bands than were playing a touch too loudly in the bar. This isn't the Gryphon, you know. More excellent Thornbridge on cask.

A pleasant day - until you are awakened by a very loud GWR guard to give you the bad news that the train you have been on for the last 50 minutes is cancelled.

Delay / Repay meaning that Stage 3 could be free. 

Walk Details

Distance - 5.5 miles

Geocaches - 5

Previous "A Bristol Way" Walks;

Stage 1

19/10/26 - On the Trail of...... Joseph Chamberlain

Hit The City

To complete the Wyre Valley Line Railway Stations Walk, I need to plot a short walk between the Jewellery Quarter and Moor Street, via Snow Hill Station. A short city walk, with plentiful distractions. To avoid turning it to a lengthy pub crawl, I'll combine my investigations with the latest History West Midlands Podcast.  The political dynasty of the Chamberlains is the topic, with my walk concentrating on Joseph.

The Chamberlains were one of Birmingham’s most influential political dynasties, built on industrial wealth rather than inherited aristocratic privilege. Joseph Chamberlain (1836–1914) made his fortune in the screw-manufacturing business before entering politics, becoming Birmingham’s reforming mayor in the 1870s and later a national politician. His sons followed him into public life: Austen Chamberlain became Chancellor of the Exchequer and won the Nobel Peace Prize, while Neville Chamberlain became Prime Minister. Their story is unusual because their political influence grew out of the wealth and status created by Victorian industry, rather than an established landed family inheritance. Joseph’s municipal reforms transformed Birmingham through improvements to housing, sanitation and public services, helping establish the modern civic identity of the city. The family’s legacy illustrates how Birmingham’s industrial success created a new kind of political elite, capable of shaping both local government and national affairs.

Meet the gang

In an unusual turn of events for a politician, the Birmingham's population appeared to adore Joseph. There are no end of monuments and squares dedicated to him. As I am at the Jewellery Quarter - I start at the end of the story. Like all the Birmingham greats, he is buried at Key Hill Cemetery. 

Joseph Chamberlain’s funeral in July 1914 was a remarkable demonstration of his standing in Birmingham. Although he had been a major national politician, his family declined the offer of a burial at Westminster Abbey. Chamberlain had expressed a wish to be laid to rest among his 

own people, and the family chose a relatively modest Unitarian burial at Key Hill Cemetery in Hockley.

The grave takes a little hunting, even with the information boards.  Section K, plot 610. Next to an obelisk, but a simple stone marker.

Understated

Off to the Civic celebrations - the Chamberlain Clock outside the Rose Villa Tavern. No point stopping for a drink. The windows are gorgeous, the cask ale - if there at all - awful during recent visits.

All the details

Wharstone Lane meets Frederick Street

Dedication

Drinks stop - the 1000 trades is not open on a Monday Lunch, so I am all the way to Summer Row before I make a stop. It's rare to walk past The Shakespeare, so I feel a revisit is in order. My wallet winces as I spot the Nicholson's brass plate on the entrance.

Lime Bike Central

To be fair, if you are after lunch, a bargain can be had. A club sandwich - with chips and a pint - for a tenner. Makes the £6.30 for a Proper Job look like this week's biggest mistake - even if it was in absolutely perfect condition.

Onwards, to Chamberlain Square for more Joseph Joy. When you see those "Birmingham is not all crap" social media posts, the photos are invariably from here.

Chamberlain Square

Chamberlain Fountain

Chamberlain Fountain

I'm right in the City now. Our newest bar, the Boiler Room, had to be checked out. I thought craft beer was so last decade, but this cocktail bar is all craft keg. 10 on, admittedly from interesting breweries but when a Cloudwater 5%'er is £8 a pint, I refuse to do their marketing for them. Good luck competing with the far better Colmore around the corner - where excellent cask is half the price.

One of Chamberlain's biggest successes was the slum clearance and development of Corporation Street - as a boulevard of modernity. Alas, things have gone full circle and in another 10 years it will be back to slum status. I find it terrible that the current Birmingham Council cannot look after nice things. Photos too ugly - unless you like urban decay and trees growing out of the upper floors of beautiful buildings with boarded up windows.

Moor Street Station marking the logical end of this section of the Rail Trail. I'm about to enter Bandit County, as I make my way down the Shakespeare Line.

Selfridges, behind Moor Street

Walk Details

Distance - 3.25 miles

Geocaches - 2

Previous Stages on the Wyre Valley Line - Worcester to Droitwich, Droitwich to Hartlebury, Hartlebury to Kidderminster, Kidderminster to Hagley, Hagley to Stourbridge, Stourbridge to Cradley Heath, Cradley Heath to Old Hill, Old Hill to Langley Green, Langley Green to Smethwick Galton Bridge, Smethwick Galton Bridge to The Hawthorns, The Hawthorns to Jewellery Quarter

13/10/26 - Sefton Park and Penny Lane, Liverpool

Magical Mystery Tour to the first 2027 GBG Tick

Two walks close together in the Liverpool A-Z book of City Walks. Parklife in Princes and Sefton Parks - functional but with nothing much to write home about. The second walk in nearby Wavertree fixes that in spades.

My walking life has many inspirations - history, murders, pubs, folklore and so on - but this must be the first walk inspired by a song. Fighting the hordes taking coach trips to take photographs of road signs. Only a special kind of idiot does that.

Penny Lane - in my ears and in my eyes

The parks are OK - easy tracks, moms with pushchairs and large bodies of water.

Easy walking in the park

A replica of Piccadilly Eros

I've never really paid attention to the lyrics of Penny Lane. Released at the same time as Sgt Pepper - but not on the album - it's a jaunty number where the boys whimsically recount real-life places in a small area where they grew up.

I give you;

a barber showing photographs

The corner where there's a banker with a motorcar

The shelter in the middle of a roundabout

I only sing when I'm walking. Whilst in this part of town, I take the chance to see 50% of the childhood homes. I have to say I am impressed with how neat and tidy the little terraced streets are. A million miles away from similar areas of Birmingham (my home town), which can no longer be described as leafy.

Lennon's goes for anonymity 

Harrison gets a blue plaque

And the fun doesn't stop there. Once I have finished the southern half of Sefton Park, I am delivered into Larks Lane. What a wonderful place. A few strategically placed plant pots encourage traffic calming and every building appears to be dedicated to the pursuit of Bacchanalian pleasure. 

Including my first new tick from the recently published Good Beer Guide.

The Masonic Arms

It's one of three pubs in Larks Lane owned by the Pub Co. Presumably in the Good Beer Guide for the extensive collection of cask ales - but quantity doesn't equate to quality - especially when there are no other customers. There is simply no need for three different pale ales and my Kirkstall Three Swords was disappointingly on the turn.

At least it was handsome.

Tastebuds saved directly over the road at the Green Man. A perfect Timothy Taylor Boltmaker washing down Tayto smoky bacon crisps. I've eaten a lot of crisps. I declare these the king.

Scouse CAMRA got it wrong - this is where you want to be.

Finally - and because I can't resist a pub crawl - Bookbinders. I'm unsure what it is from the outside, so I ask the waitress (note I don't use bar staff) if it's a pub or a café? She replies "it's a bar/eatery". We agree on all things to all men.

To help you make up your mind - an extensive breakfast menu has beans on toast for £7.

The beer - an excellent White Rat - offers better value at just over £4.

Thoroughly enjoyed in the autumn sunshine.

The other Bookbinders I know offers free Monkey Nuts...

Walk Details

Distance - 9 miles

Geocaches - 20

Walk Inspiration - Liverpool A-Z City Walks, Walks 14 and 15

Previous Liverpool A-Z City Walks - Walks 1 and 2, Walk 3, Walk 4, Walk 5, Walk 6 and 7, Walk 8 and 9, Walk 10, Walk 11 and 12, Walk 13