Hit The City
To complete the Wyre Valley Line Railway Stations Walk, I need to plot a short walk between the Jewellery Quarter and Moor Street, via Snow Hill Station. A short city walk, with plentiful distractions. To avoid turning it to a lengthy pub crawl, I'll combine my investigations with the latest
History West Midlands Podcast. The political dynasty of the Chamberlains is the topic, with my walk concentrating on Joseph.
The Chamberlains were one of Birmingham’s most influential political dynasties, built on industrial wealth rather than inherited aristocratic privilege. Joseph Chamberlain (1836–1914) made his fortune in the screw-manufacturing business before entering politics, becoming Birmingham’s reforming mayor in the 1870s and later a national politician. His sons followed him into public life: Austen Chamberlain became Chancellor of the Exchequer and won the Nobel Peace Prize, while Neville Chamberlain became Prime Minister. Their story is unusual because their political influence grew out of the wealth and status created by Victorian industry, rather than an established landed family inheritance. Joseph’s municipal reforms transformed Birmingham through improvements to housing, sanitation and public services, helping establish the modern civic identity of the city. The family’s legacy illustrates how Birmingham’s industrial success created a new kind of political elite, capable of shaping both local government and national affairs.
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| Meet the gang |
In an unusual turn of events for a politician, the Birmingham's population appeared to adore Joseph. There are no end of monuments and squares dedicated to him. As I am at the Jewellery Quarter - I start at the end of the story. Like all the Birmingham greats, he is buried at Key Hill Cemetery.
Joseph Chamberlain’s funeral in July 1914 was a remarkable demonstration of his standing in Birmingham. Although he had been a major national politician, his family declined the offer of a burial at Westminster Abbey. Chamberlain had expressed a wish to be laid to rest among his
own people, and the family chose a relatively modest Unitarian burial at Key Hill Cemetery in Hockley.
The grave takes a little hunting, even with the information boards. Section K, plot 610. Next to an obelisk, but a simple stone marker.
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| Understated |
Off to the Civic celebrations - the Chamberlain Clock outside the Rose Villa Tavern. No point stopping for a drink. The windows are gorgeous, the cask ale - if there at all - awful during recent visits.
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| All the details |
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| Wharstone Lane meets Frederick Street |
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| Dedication |
Drinks stop - the 1000 trades is not open on a Monday Lunch, so I am all the way to Summer Row before I make a stop. It's rare to walk past The Shakespeare, so I feel a revisit is in order. My wallet winces as I spot the Nicholson's brass plate on the entrance.
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| Lime Bike Central |
To be fair, if you are after lunch, a bargain can be had. A club sandwich - with chips and a pint - for a tenner. Makes the £6.30 for a Proper Job look like this week's biggest mistake - even if it was in absolutely perfect condition.
Onwards, to Chamberlain Square for more Joseph Joy. When you see those "Birmingham is not all crap" social media posts, the photos are invariably from here.
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| Chamberlain Square |
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| Chamberlain Fountain |
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| Chamberlain Fountain |
I'm right in the City now. Our newest bar, the Boiler Room, had to be checked out. I thought craft beer was so last decade, but this cocktail bar is all craft keg. 10 on, admittedly from interesting breweries but when a Cloudwater 5%'er is £8 a pint, I refuse to do their marketing for them. Good luck competing with the far better Colmore around the corner - where excellent cask is half the price.
One of Chamberlain's biggest successes was the slum clearance and development of Corporation Street - as a boulevard of modernity. Alas, things have gone full circle and in another 10 years it will be back to slum status. I find it terrible that the current Birmingham Council cannot look after nice things. Photos too ugly - unless you like urban decay and trees growing out of the upper floors of beautiful buildings with boarded up windows.
Moor Street Station marking the logical end of this section of the Rail Trail. I'm about to enter Bandit County, as I make my way down the Shakespeare Line.
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| Selfridges, behind Moor Street |
Walk Details
Distance - 3.25 miles
Geocaches - 2
Previous Stages on the Wyre Valley Line -
Worcester to Droitwich,
Droitwich to Hartlebury,
Hartlebury to Kidderminster,
Kidderminster to Hagley,
Hagley to Stourbridge,
Stourbridge to Cradley Heath,
Cradley Heath to Old Hill,
Old Hill to Langley Green,
Langley Green to Smethwick Galton Bridge,
Smethwick Galton Bridge to The Hawthorns,
The Hawthorns to Jewellery Quarter
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