A Liverpool First, Poor Pub Recommendations
I'm nearly halfway through the Liverpool A-Z City Walks Book. They may be running out of ideas, as I am sure that I have fully explored the docks before. Never mind, it's a fascinating city.
Before I get there - an odd walk, celebrating maritime history in the Ropewalks area and the city's relationship with China. Basically walking up and down arrow-straight shopping streets and nightclub-laden back alleys.
Liverpool’s Ropewalks district takes its name from the long, straight streets where ropes were once laid out and twisted for the city’s ships, reflecting its deep maritime heritage in the 18th and 19th centuries when Liverpool was one of the world’s busiest ports. Just south of the area lies Liverpool’s Chinatown—the oldest in Europe—established in the late 19th century as Chinese sailors, mainly from Canton, settled near the docks. Over time, it became a hub for Liverpool’s Chinese community, symbolised today by its ornate paifang arch, the largest outside China. This relationship grew through the city’s historic trading links, particularly with Shanghai, cementing cultural and commercial ties that still influence Liverpool’s identity.
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| Bold Street for the Shops |
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| Street Art |
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| All Together Now - at the Bombed Out Church |
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| Entertainment Options for later |
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| Largest Arch outside of China |
I'm ahead of myself, having already visited this walk's pub recommendations - The Monro, one of Liverpool's oldest and the unique Bridewell, hosted in a former Police Station.
The second walk explores the South Docks, adding in the vibrant and rapidly gentrifying Baltic Triangle. All artisan bakers and brewers and extensive building regeneration.
Liverpool’s Baltic Triangle is a former 19th-century dockside industrial zone—once home to timber yards, warehouses, and merchants trading with the Baltic region—that has transformed into one of the city’s most vibrant creative and nightlife districts. Retaining its red-brick heritage and landmarks like the Gustav Adolf Scandinavian Church and the Baltic Fleet pub, it now buzzes with independent bars, food markets, live music venues, and street art, including the famous Klopp mural. Anchored by hubs such as Cains Brewery Village, Baltic Market, and Camp and Furnace, the area has attracted hundreds of creative and digital businesses.
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| The South Docks (again) |
My guide book recommending the Baltic Fleet (of course) and Love Lane Brewery which is somewhere new to me.
I have two other sources of recommendation. A lengthy chat with the landlord of Tewkesbury's Cross House Tavern, which showed the man really knew his pub onions. And of course, the Good Beer Guide has one city centre entry left to tick. Let's tackle them in order of visit.
Mr Tewkesbury mentioned all the classics you'd expect but the Coburg was previously unheralded. I rather like the way it is making a stand against rampant mid-rise development.
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| Holding out - The Coburg |
Alas, I found little evidence of a "pub packed with maritime history" and the beer choice was keg only. I can only assume the pub has changed since my barman moved south.
The guidebook suggested I try Love Lane Brewery. A hipster brewery tap that has resurrected one of Liverpool's famous brewery brands - Higsons.
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| Higsons House |
Few customers and a very bored staff member that failed to notice a new customer waiting at the bar. She continued with her text message interactions. I wondered whether to cough, stamp my feet or simply shout. Instead, I thought I would see how long it would take. Far too long, is the answer.
And saving the worst for last, I am unsure what the local CAMRA branch are up to. They have replaced the previous year's two Spoons recommendations with The Vines (worthy) and Ma Boyles, which is where I headed.
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| Neon Eatery |
A subterranean restaurant with two cask ales on - one a house brew and the other unheard of. In a town full of great pubs, most recommended in the bible, this one is a real oddity. An unpubby atmosphere, with little architectural merit selling a poor choice of cask.
I'd love to know their thought process for selection.
And what Timbo has done to upset them.
Walk Details
Distance - 7 Miles
Geocaches - 20
Walk Inspiration - Liverpool A-Z City Walks, Walk 8 and 9
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