08/05/22 - Saxon Shore Way - Stage 2 - Rochester to Lower Halstow

Distance - 11.5 Miles

Geocaches - 4

Pubs 3

Previous Stages - Stage 1

Day 2 on the Saxon Shore Way and I am hoping my walking partner's sense of direction - and map reading skills - are basic. Plenty of miles are walked but at the end of the day, our hotel is in Gillingham. Less than 3 miles from Rochester, our digs for last night.

Let me explain.

We're following the coastal path - and walking should stop at Newington. A village with no accommodation options but a handily placed railway station. Gillingham has 3 Good Beer Guide entries and an independent hotel. Sounds like a plan.

So we leave Rochester - impressed by its history, Goachers Brewery and Wetherspoons hotel rooms to explore the North of the Town. One thing we learn from this trip, is that it's impossible to tell where one Medway town ends and the next begins. Rochester turns to Chatham which turns to Gillingham with only increasing levels of "roughness" to tell them apart.

We walk past our independent hotel. I don't tell Paul we could drop our rucksacks off and Ramble free.You never know how plans can change.

The Medway from a Medway Town, Rochester

Not often a ramble takes me through 1960s shopping centres but the rambling proper starts after about 90 minutes when we pick up the footpath along the Medway.

Our View for the Day

It's pleasant walking in the sunshine, if not a little monotonous. There are some Geocaches to break things up but even I am not cruel enough to insist we complete the unnecessary horseshoe shaped deviation of Motney Hill. Not when the OS Map details two Big Blue Cups of Joy on the road that knocks off a mile.

Of course, one is long gone. The Angel survives - although if I was a betting man, I would not put money on it staying for too much longer.

It's down at heel - with a front room that hasn't been decorated in years. Entertainment provided by local radio and a table that holds a Sky receiver and bizarrely, as Tom Tom Sat Nav. The elderly landlord has no other customers to interrupt his facebooking and the welcome provided cannot be classed as warm, until we order our second pint.

But there are signs of loveliness. Two CAMRA awards are proudly displayed behind the bar - from the early 2000s. A second Goachers Gold Star of the week, has the first pint pulled through before my glass is filled. And like last night, it is gorgeous.

We take them through to a suntrap garden full of discarded gardening equipment and bikes. My Untappd checkin lists the pub as "The Angle".

Paul decides its the sort of place he CAN take his boots off.

We loved it. And it was a wrench to leave, even when we have views like this to accompany our walk.

More of the Medway

Little to report until we arrive at Lower Halstow - where the Three Tuns is the polar opposite of the Angel. A very smart GastroPub, with an immaculate garden packed with the Medway's finest Sunday lunchers.

Paul Celebrates Success - Today's Walking is over

Another pair of Goachers Gold Star and we cannot be arsed for the 1 mile walk to the hourly train at Newington. We have money, a smartphone and the smooth talking charms to convince a Medway cab firm to come and rescue us.

Which leaves Gillingham - with its 3 Good Beer Guide Ticks - for our entertainment.  Normally, this would be enough for a separate blog but Sunday hours are not kind. Google suggests the Past and Present is closed, the Frog and Toad is open till 8pm and the Will Adams is open till 11.

Frog and Toad it is first - a honest looking back street boozer that has a beer garden where we can watch the sunset over the terraced housing. Tanners Ales Box of Frogs, a decent session ale.

Sunset falls on the Frog and Toad where Mappiman throw shapes

Dining options are limited but we do find a lovely Greek Restaurant, disguising itself as a Hollywood "Burger and Ribs" joint. It's almost like its too scared to announce its authenticity but with the first two items on the menu a Stifado and a Kelftiko, we know what to order.

Appetite sated, I march Paul off to find the Will Adams.

Twitter records the results.

Oh bollocks. Google said 11. pic.twitter.com/tYndLbRdZP

— Mappiman (@Mappiman1) May 8, 2022