07/05/22 - Saxon Shore Way - Stage 1 - Gravesend to Rochester

Distance - 15 Miles

Geocaches - 1

Pubs 3

Saxon Shore Way - A Personal Introduction

The SSW runs for 153 miles from Gravesend to Hastings, following the coastline of Kent as it was 2000 years ago.  

I was keen to explore a part of the world that is new to me - looking forward to visiting coastal towns, in vogue from recent ITV dramas. Only on planning was I marginally disappointed that it missed out on Ramsgate and Margate - up and coming hipster towns, according to the weekend broadsheets.  Deal, Rye and Hastings are firmly on the trail.

With a week's holiday, I can knock off half the route. Unusually, I have company. Paul will be able to compare notes with Mrs M as to whether there is any fun in being dragged half way across new towns just to get a Good Beer Guide Tick.

The rules we set ourselves are simple;

1. No point in suffering - if we have had enough, and public transport allows, we will modify plans accordingly
2. Full English Breakfasts will be submitted to social media for comparison ratings
3. No Pub on route that is open will be unvisited. 

Day 1 - Gravesend to Rochester

Advance rail tickets purchased weeks ago and Avanti do their best to put the kibosh on the whole adventure by cancelling the 6:55am from Sandwell and Dudley. Lack of crew availability, an excuse that's wearing increasingly thin. 

A pacey walk from Euston to Kings Cross and we manage to make our booked connecting Javelin Train with 5 minutes to spare and only one upset Cockney. Paul hasn't quite got used the extra breadth a 45l Lowe Alpine rucksack adds. No need to cry about spilled coffee is there, Geezer?

A short drop through the Gravesend shopping area to pick up the start of the path at the Pier.

Gravesend Pier - with the Tilbury Ferry

Hard to think of less salubrious start to a Long Distance Path.  Within a mile in and we are forced to leave the official trail through a "Path Closed Sign". I can add "Dangerous Tyres" to a growing list of on the fly re-routing.

Paul's introduction to Long Distance Walking - an industrial estate, where he can comment on worker's children's haircuts before they are out of earshot. The mullet is coming back.

Next Year, the Yorkshire Dales

Less than a mile later, we are breaking rule number 3 - although, it required Internet Based research to confirm this.  With no signage at the rear - with the exception of a neon "Open Sign" - we were unsure what was being offered from this building.

Vaguely Pub Shaped

This is Gravesend's Ship and Lobster.  Here it is from the front, from Google Maps.  Surprisingly, the reviews are uniformly good, along with "Don't judge a book by its cover".

Would you have guessed?

At Eastcourt Marshes, we break out from industrial bleakness for estuary bleakness.  Low tide Thames, no river traffic, Dartford Bridge behind, artillery forts and gravel extraction works in front.

Gravel

1860's Artillery Forts

Navigational expertise required to circumvent the flooded ponds of Cliffe Pools Nature reserve.

Cliffe's Six Bells provides the first pub stop.  A Shepherd's Neame tied house (we'll learn more about this brewery later in the week) with no cask offerings.  Fitting with the day that San Miguel in front of a bouncy castle is pint 1 on the SSW.  The bouncy castle is deflated once the rain starts. 

Fun, until until the Fun Stops

Classier looking pub than it's offerings

Rain required a relocation inside, where the barmaids are incredulous at our heroics and the old boys suggest taking the bus - temptingly idling directly outside the pub.

Not long till the next refreshments, I reassure Paul and we head out to take a quick photo of Cooling Castle, before finding the Horseshoe and Castle.

Cooling Castle

A chance to escape the rain at Cooling Horseshoe and Castle

A long wait at the bar for a Nelson Brewery (Medway Town Micro Brewery) Pieces of Eight is explained by the sole harassed barmaid.  Its someone's 103rd Birthday in the next room.  Honestly, I was joking when I said "Were you giving her the bumps?"

Paul, weighing up the options.  For 10 minutes.

The rain has knocked off but crop fields and orchards or whatever you call the place where hops are grown, soak us through to the socks.  Never a good start for blisters when you are gently softening the soles of your feet.

We'll say little about the five miles to Hoo St Werburgh. Enough words were had with ourselves on route.  We've walked 15 miles and Hoo has a pub with one less bell than Cliffe, a shop called "Hoo's News and Booze" and all importantly, an every 30 minute bus to our home for the night.

Rochester, here we come..... on the 191.

Just Five Bells at Hoo.  And London Pride