Tuesday, 17 June 2025

17/06/25 - Saxon Shore Way - Stage 10 - Hamstreet to Rye

Stalked 

Two nights in Rye. Home of the Mapp and Lucia novels. Kind of made sense for an extended Mappiman stay.

It's stunning: walk medieval cobbled streets, drink in ancient pubs, and admire the ever-changing architecture. Eat the best curry I have ever had at the Mahdi Spice. I don't say that lightly - and I will never have a biryani with dal again.

Lamb Biryani
Bread crust removed to reveal a pot of joy

Not without slight disappointment though. I’m here on a Monday and Tuesday, but the Ypres Castle—much admired on social media and a place I am desperate to visit—doesn’t open until Thursday.

Ypre Castle, Rye
Jeffrey Jon Bell, why do you forsake me?

I'm getting ahead myself - and the pubs will probably need a separate blog. First the walking.

The train whisks me back to Hamstreet.

Early walking on the Saxon Shore Way (SSW) is through Gusbourne Vineyard. Field after field, with information boards explaining what’s growing (or not), alongside jolly grape pickers working the vines.

Gusbourne Vineyard
English Wine

For the first time in days, the SSW has civilisation on route. I reached Appledore by 11 am—just too early for the pub on the wide high street. Half a mile on, and the Ferry Inn is a very civilised opener. Harvey's Sussex Best showing how close I am to the border.

A wonderful pint. In my Top 3 beers, if you are interested.

The Ferry Inn, Appledore
Sussex Best, very nearly in Sussex

A prolonged liquid pre-lunch before hitting the trail again. I get to understand how the Romney Marsh drainage system works by walking along Reading Sewer, before rejoining my old friend, the Royal Military Canal for the final stretch to Rye.

Royal Military Canal
Military Canal Walking

Do you ever get the feeling you are being watched?

My son and his girlfriend have returned yesterday from five months in Australia. They are in the same county as me, but it is a 2 hour trip from Horsham to Rye. I never thought for minute that jet-lagged, and with a meetup planned for the weekend anyway, they would make the journey. 

Armed with vague information from Mrs M of my card transactions they want to surprise me when I settle down for a post walk pint.

Stalked on the Streets of Rye
I'm being followed

They are too late for me at the Globe Inn Marsh. They follow me on my hunt for afternoon tiffin, with laughs provided when my pork‑pie quest from 'Simon the Pie Man' came up empty.

Eventually, they give up the chase and ask if I am coming down at my digs in the Hope Anchor.

A re-union that made my trip and now I've got company for Rye Pubs!

Stalked
Emotional Mappiman, Ambushed

Walk Details

Previous Stages - Stage 1Stage 2Stage 3Stage 4Stage 5Stage 6Stage 7Stage 8, Stage 9

Distance - 11.7 Miles

Geocaches - 2




 




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