The Mop Fair is in town and the trains are broken
Every edition of the Good Beer Guide starts with the plan of me "completing" Worcestershire. 2023 was on track, with Evesham's Trumpet Inn the last remaining pub to visit. Alas, the 30th of September saw both the 2024 edition land on the doormat and the trains on strike.
Technically, I am now into 2024 season. An uneventful, yet expensive train journey landing me in the heart of the town. Guests to our shores would not believe a 20 minute train journey could leave you with coin only change from a tenner.
Evesham sits in the horseshoe bend of the River Avon and the authorities have devised a lovely circular walk that can be extended to include a Battlefield walk. Signs in the pavement from the station exit and all along the route.
The Battlefield Walk is of interest - on permissive paths through the grounds of the Abbey Manor estate. Two architectural celebrations in the form of Leicester Tower and an ornate obelisk telling the story. I'll use Bard AI to save me the trouble;
The Battle of Evesham was a decisive battle in the Second Barons' War, fought on 4 August 1265. It pitted the forces of King Henry III and his son, Prince Edward (the future Edward I), against the rebel forces of Simon de Montfort, 6th Earl of Leicester.
The battle took place near the town of Evesham, Worcestershire, after Montfort and his forces had been pursued by Edward and his army. Montfort's forces were outnumbered and outmaneuvered, and they were eventually defeated. Montfort himself was killed in the battle, along with many of his followers.
The Battle of Evesham marked the end of the Second Barons' War and the restoration of royal authority. It also had a significant impact on the development of English Parliament, as it led to the exclusion of the lesser barons from the House of Lords.
Leicester Tower |
Abbey Manor C19th and used as a WWI convalescence home |
Obelisk, with the story told around the base |
The rest of the walk is on excellent paths, following the gentle River Avon.
Walking cut slightly short to head into the town centre to get my tick. This is where the disasters start and of course, this is what my readers want. Not history lessons.
Disaster #1 - The Mop Fair
The town has been taken over by the carny. The main high street has been blocked with machinery to fling the Evesham youth into the air at high velocity. The Mop Fair was an ancient tradition to celebrate the end of the working year. Parades were held, with locals dressing up and carrying a symbol of their employment. I'm all for tradition but we seem to lost something over the years. Parades now replaced by rough men shouting "Scream if you want to go faster".
Youtube can provide you with a feel of the chaos.
I'll escape to the pub for Disaster Number 2. Slightly early for the midday Trumpet, I think I'll head to 'spoons for a small breakfast with extra black pudding. Better known as "The Usual".
Forced to queue for 10 minutes outside the Trumpet, like the tramp I am. It must be a good pub, I am not alone and the land-lady comes out to give us regular countdowns of when they are opening. "5 minutes to go lads" setting the juices flowing.
The bolt scraping happens at exactly the advertised time for this fine Hook Norton tied house. Their most Westerly, according to the Good Book.
A popular locals pub, that steadily filled up in the 30 minutes I wolfed own a 6 finger, fish finger sandwich and an Old Hooky.
A message from Trainline delivers Disaster #3. My scheduled train home is getting no further north than Oxford. Try again in an hour.
Off to the Red Lion for a revisit. Still in the GBG, still pushing the shabby chic vibe.
Super friendly staff, who know most by name and what they are drinking before they order. The sort of local I would love, offering both regular music evenings and importantly, coach trips to the more rural pubs and breweries within the immediate area. I have to get to the Fleece Inn, Bretforton, under my own steam. But by god, it is worth it.
First of this season's green hopped beers, this one from the Teme Valley Brewery. Eventually, I finish the day having visited 5 Worcestershire pubs and green hopped beers are available in four of them. I'm not saying this is a new phenomena but its certainly one I have never noticed before.
Disaster #4 - the train after my scheduled train is also not running.
With BCM dropping out the bible, I'm out of CAMRA recommended pubs and take a punt on Ye Olde Red Horse. And would you know it, exceptional beer, served by very knowledgeable staff in an ancient hostelry. I demand the town gets three entries in 2025.
Green hopped beer available, but I went for a perfect Teme Valley That |
Disaster #5 - No trains now for the rest of the afternoon. The track inspection has revealed serious underfunding in transport infrastructure for the last 20 years. Time for plan B. Only losers take the bus, but at £2 for a 50 minute journey, it beats the train into a cocked hat for value.
Only issue, vehicles cannot easily get to the bus station due to the traffic problems caused by closing the main route for the fair.
Tequila and Lime nestles behind Stand A and with a front patio, you can see the traffic coming a mile off. But even in direst of circumstances, am I prepared to drop my beery standards?
Peroni |
Walk Details
Distance - 5 Miles
Geocaches - 5 and 1 ALC
Good Beer Guide Tick - #905
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