Thursday 26 October 2023

26/10/23 - Mermaids and Marconi at Mullion

Coves, cliffs, legends and two pubs


Mullion - the largest settlement on the Lizard Peninsula and we follow our guide books advice that this makes an ideal base for exploring the area.

A walk from our front door. Through the town, finding all the amenities. Is it a coincidence that Mrs M used AirBnB to find digs next to a chocolate factory?

Our first special place is Mullion Cove, a still working harbour supporting pilchard fishing.


Heading to Mullion Cove
From Ghost Hill to Mullion Cove
Mullion Cove
Another special place

You could while away the time by playing "Guess the name of the Island" - Mullion a given, but Tregwyn, the Var (Boo, say all football lovers) and Scovarn taking more time.

It's then up onto the cliffs to be rewarded by two perfect sandy coves. Polurrian first and larger of the two. Guide dog in training Ivy getting a well earned free run with the other canines.

Polpurrian Cove
Many would have just stopped here

Back on the cliffs - for legends, true and probably false. Angrouse Cliff has the Marconi Monument, celebrating the first transatlantic communication in 1901. And what did he send?  The letter S in Morse repeated three times and received in Newfoundland.  The radiowaves bending across the globe, a feat the naysayers said impossible.

120 years later and Sunday morning politics TV has a genuine feature about AI causing the end of civilisation. We all know it will be the 27th named storm of a particularly terrible Autumn. 

Marconi Monument
Understated Monument to Transatlantic Communication

Mrs M had the big white building down as a hotel, offering skinny flat whites. Disappointment that its now a care home tempered by the realisation that she can be plonked there in her later years. Certainly quite the spot.

The cafe is on Poldhu Beach - another doggy playground but this time with a fable.  Magical Britain tells of an Old Smuggler Lutey who returned a stranded mermaid, Morwenna, back to the water. Granted three wishes, he made the mistake of not asking for unlimited wishes. Instead, he asked to be able to charm away illness, restore stolen goods (odd request for a Smuggler) and the power to break evil spirits. Lutey and his descendents became famous Pellars, Cornish expellers of evil. Happy ending? Nah, nine years later Morwenna dragged Lutey back into the waves and he was never seen again.

Poldhu Cove
Guide Dog Ivy with a glint in her eye....

Enough folklore Mappiman, I hear you cry.  What about the pubs of Mullion?

Our AirBnb host waxed lyrical about the Old Inn. Her face changed when discussing the Mount Bay Inn. She stated it used to be a nice place but was now being run as a hostel.

Takes more than that to put us off - so we tried it out and found a large holiday pub, setup for Sunday Carveries. Closed Monday and Tuesday and a 3pm opener on other weekdays. Our first visit was Saturday night and we can confirm that this is where the youth of Mullion head to for "prinks" before taxiing to the bright lights of Helston. Proper Job was available, but after my Johnny Depp (pirate) lookalike bar man had to ask the single old bar hanging boy whether anyone had one today, I quickly changed to keg Korev. 

The locals were friendly but were the enough of them to keep the place going?  I'd be surprised if Mullion is still a two pub town on future visits.

Mounts Bay Inn, Mullion
The Mount Bay Inn

The AirBnb host was of course, totally correct about the Old Inn.  A charming, thatched C16th building originally hosting the workers constructing the church over the road. Packed out on both visits and impossible not to get into conversation with tourists and locals alike.

Old Inn, Mullion
The Old Inn

The community centre - it hosts several dining rooms, a pool room and even the community library. A proper one, council endorsed and everything.  

Drinkers are catered for, with a perfect front bar. A battle to get through the local bar hangers and enquiries need to be made as to their gold loyalty cards. I joke with the barman that I intend to be that loyal, I will have one by the end of the week. He scoffs that I need a TR postcode before I would be bestowed the golden ticket?

Could this be the first pub I have been to with a two-tier pricing system? Should I have been angry that I was paying more for my St Austell beers than the locals?

Maybe... I was more disappointed in today's cashless society, I didn't have 50p for the pool table.

Hicks at The Old Inn, Mullion
Hicks sampled, but the Proper Job was the "go to" pint


Walk Details

Distance - 5 Miles

Geocaches - 3

Walk Inspiration - 40 Walks in Cornwall, Walk 14





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