Saturday 24 September 2022

24/09/21 - Three Stags Heads at Wardlow Mires

Distance - 5 Miles

Walk Inspiration - Half Day Walks in the The Peak District, South East - Walk 2

Good Beer Guide Pub - #711


The Three Stags Heads. Seen it eulogised many times on Social Media. I've walked past it mid week when completing the Inn Way to The Peak District. It only opens on weekends.  Four years later, I find myself close enough to warrant a re-visit.

A suitable walk is found to work up a thirst.

And what a fine walk it was.

A footpath runs next to the pub and I'm out in ancient field systems, separated by dry stone walls.  A navigational error (muscle memory took me on the same route as the Inn Way) takes me to the charming village of Foolow.  A chance for pub archaeology in Wardlow village - where the OS Map shows the big blue cup of joy, but I failed to spot the building that was the Bulls Head. Closed in 2003 and now a private house.

The real highlight are the upper reaches of Cressbrook Dale.  An isolated, dry valley that is the subject of a campaign to save it.  From the creation of a hippy colony (with Yurts), led by a former Dragon's Den Presenter, according to the pub patrons.

Peak District
Looking back to the Three Stags
Foolow Village
Foolow Duck Pond
Cressbrook Dale
Looking over Cressbrook Dale - before the hippies come

The exit from the dale leads directly to the front door of the pub.

I commented last time that it looks rather foreboding. Not sure if the loss of one of the Stags Head makes it even more sinister. I am assured that it was kept following a storm and will be replaced.

Three Stags Head, Wardlow Mires
Two Stags Heads

Three Stags Head, Wardlow Mires
The Sign on the Door

The frisson of tension you get from entering a new pub is enhanced by a sticking front door, where I try and navigate the lock mechanism to cries of "Push Down Harder".  How badly do I want this pint?

Same answer as usual, very.

Take stock of my surroundings. Small front bar, with low ceiling and massive fire range. Rustic, farmhouse furniture on flag-stone floors.  Rabbit with a shotgun.  Man (who turns out to be the landlord) sat down, sharpening a bayonet with a whetstone.

Three Stags Head, Wardlow Mires
The rear "music" room.

Three Stags Head, Wardlow Mires
2nd thoughts, it could be a hare

I'm soon made to feel welcome.  Bar lady explains the campaign to save Cressbrook Dale.  Two other patrons give me marriage advice.  You can be married or happy, but not both.  Bayonet man re-sheathes his weapon and delights me with cheese scones.

Three Stags Head, Wardlow Mires
Not Chicken McNuggets

Abbeydale Brewery produce a beer just for this venue. A stout called "Black Lurcher". My two drinking chums were drinking it from pewter tankards.

I think I made the correct decision to go for a more sedate Deception from the same brewery.  

The Lurcher comes in at a powerful 7.5%.  

I strectched out my drink to get the maximum time to soak up the unique atmosphere. I understand that a follow up to American Gods by Neil Gaimen - Black Dogs - is set partly in this pub.

I have added it to my Goodreads ToBeRead pile. Will it have savoury snacks in the plot?


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