28/06/25 - Evesham Circular Rail Walk

Not Even an Ice Cream

Pickerwheel selects page 74 from the Hidden Places of Worcestershire Guide Book. We are off to Evesham, fitting in nicely as #1 son needing a lift to a railway station. Also noted that the Rail Trails website has been enhanced to include a number of circular walks.

No hardship to be in Evesham, even if the walk nearly repeats of the Town Trail I did when I chasing the Good Beer Guide Tick for the Trumpet Inn.

No pub refreshments planned for today, but with the mercury nudging 30, we are seriously hoping that Abbey Park has an ice cream van.

From the station, we head west to pick up the River Avon before crossing farmers' fields to the other side of the horseshoe bend in the river and down to Abbey Park.

River Avon

Inland to Battle Well and Oxstalls Farm

War Memorial and Abbey in Abbey Park

The park is a fine place to stop for a picnic. The artworks within were discovered through an Adventure Lab Cache. But no sign of an ice cream van. Mrs M was grumbling there had to be one somewhere. The Wall's umbrellas in the garden of Raphael's cafe promise cold refreshments, but neither of us was prepared to join the 20-man queue.

A rare day when the only spends were on car parking.

Walk Details

Distance - 5 Miles

Walk Inspiration - Hidden Places of Worcestershire and Rail Trails

Geocaches - 7

26/06/25 - Birmingham University - An AZ City Walk

Seat of Learning

After the horror of Handsworth, the AZ guide book rewards with a far more tranquil walk. University station is 2 stops from New Street and you alight into the red-brick university campus.

A number of Adventure Lab Caches show me the sights - the brutalism of Muirhead Tower and the largest free standing clock tower in the world, Old Joe. Another plays on ghost stories and urban myths, suggesting that if you walk between tower arches when the bell chimes, you will fail your degree.

Should I come again, I won't bring sandwiches. Refreshment trucks peddling lunch options from around the world. Who wouldn't want a gyros? Who says students are poor? It's the recently retired who carry squashed beef and mustard sandwiches and their own coffee.

ALCs asking what Darwin (9th) holds in his left hand

Old Joe - Inspired by Siena’s Torre del Mangia

What else did I learn? At this location, and the equally impressive QEII Hospital, there was a Roman Fort.

Metchley Roman Fort was established around AD 48–50 during the early Roman conquest of Britain and served as a timber-built auxiliary fort housing approximately 500 soldiers. Located in what is now Edgbaston, Birmingham, it was strategically positioned near the Roman road Icknield Street to support the Roman advance into the Midlands. The fort featured wooden ramparts, ditches, barracks, a granary, and a headquarters building, with later annexes for supply and industrial activity. It was occupied intermittently before being permanently abandoned around AD 120, playing a key role in maintaining Roman military control during the region’s early occupation.

Who would have thought it, in Birmingham, of all places.

Once the grounds had been investigated, it was north along Edgbaston Park Road to pick up the Birmingham to Worcester Canal to Selly Oak.

Nearly ten years since I gave a rather over enthusiastic 10/10 review to the Bristol Pear. It seems the world of craft beer bars was new to me, and I was impressed by the collection of cask and keg on offer.

Under the bridge

Today, it's a cask-less Stonegate Pub, where the most interesting thing on offer was Asahi at £6 a pint.

The quickly back on the train to town to see if Jaipur is still on at the Briar Rose.

Walk Details

Distance - 5 Miles

Walk Inspiration - AZ - Hidden Walks in Birmingham Walk 9 

Previous Birmingham AZ Walks - Walk 1 & 2, Walk 3, Walk 4, Walk 5, Walk 6, Walk 7, Walk 8, Walk 9

Geocaches - 19

18/06/25 - The Good Beer Guide Pubs of Hastings, Sussex

Celebrating the End of the Saxon Shore Way

Nice to end something where there is the chance to celebrate. Hastings, a four Good Beer Guide Town, with the Dolphin practically at the end of the Long Distance Path. I believe the official end is at the pier. I made my official end here, with an apt Harvey's Sussex Best (water chaser).

A pleasant enough nautically themed traditional pub, with seaward facing outdoor seating to see the sights. Everyone likes to see a goth teenager taken on a family seaside holiday.

Final Pint of the Saxon Shore Way

Moments ago, I was on that cliff.

The Albion is a finely named traditional boozer, attracting rather a young and alternative clientele. Despite the many facial tattoos, it bizarrely seemed to be popular with diners. Must have been the pies. Another Sussex Best, a pint that I cannot get tired with.

Seafront Boozer - the Albion

The Jenny Lind is halfway along the old high street, which has some wonderful architecture. Another traditional and my pub of the night. Lots of cask ales on, but I took the opportunity to maximise the units per pound ration by having a final Biddenden cider on hand-pull. Taught the way to pronounce it properly. Biddies.

Three trads.... Micro Coming Up

Biddies in a Trad

There had to be a micro pub. The Fishermans Arms rather pretty from the outside and like good micros should, offering some interesting draught brews. Straffe Hendricks Tripel a welcome, but unexpected find.

Seduced by the advertising

A quick mention about my evening meal. Who would have thought the best Thai food I have ever had would be consumed in a book shop? Not without confusion..... cash only, set menu price of £25, they charge £2 corkage for drinks you take the top off yourself. I left £30 on the table only to be chased down the street like a criminal. Somehow, I was 15p short. A mandatory service charge applied.

Remember Mr Fiddler from Carry on Camping? I think he has opened a book shop. That does Thai food.

 

18/06/25 - Saxon Shore Way - Stage 11 - Rye to Hastings

Saxon Shore Way (SSW) Complete

The final day on the Saxon Shore Way - with the Royal Military Canal delivering me to the sea-side for a spectacular conclusion.

Hunting for the Royal Military Canal at Camber Castle

Sea View opening out at Cliff End

Typically for the SSW, there are no refreshment stops on the way. Not close enough to Winchelsea. Nothing passed at Fairlight Cove. Hastings Country Park simply providing some unneeded ups and downs.

To be fair, entering Hastings from on high - and ignoring the cliff railway - is a fitting end to 11 days and 160+ miles. 

Hastings - Tonight's playground

As this is a rather brief blog, I may as well complete the summary.

The SSW has taken me through many new towns - Rochester, Faversham, Whitstable, (a diversion to) Margate, Sandwich, Deal, Folkestone, Rye and Hastings. My favoutite had to be Folkestone. Very much admired the arty vibe and what they have done with the Harbour Arm. A model for investment in the leisure economy for any local authority.

The pubs - so many micros, some doing it better than others. A unforgettable experience at the East Cliff Tavern in Folkestone. I can guarantee that this won't be repeated should I ever be lucky enough to visit again. Time waits for no man. 

The beer was that good that I moved onto cider. Thankfully Shepherd Neame disappeared after the first half and by the time I reached the edges of Sussex, Harvey's Best was found in plentiful supply. Goachers and Gadds new breweries. Cask Jaipur for £2.29 a pint became the beer of the second half thanks to the JDW promotion.

The walking improved in the second half. Progress through the Medway towns was slow, as they merge into one. The coastal walks into Deal and Hastings were wonderful. The inland sections of the coastline from 2000 years ago were largely devoid of refreshment stops. We'll not mention trying to cross Dover on foot.

Would I do it again? There is no need, but I would like to revisit the area to walk from Margate to Ramsgate.

Walk Details

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10

Distance - 12 Miles

Geocaches - 13

17/06/25 - Some of the Pubs in Rye, East Sussex

48 Hours in Rye

If I could have my time again, I would chose to do this on a Thursday. The Ypres Castle, a long time destination pub, doesn't open until the end of the week. 

Handsome, Hidden and Closed 

There is still plenty to discover, pub-wise. The only surprise for such an ancient pubby town is that only one place, the Waterworks, is in the Good Beer Guide.  Let's see what I found over the two nights - from the worst to the best.

I may have simply picked the Globe Marsh Inn on a bad day. Having found plenty of Harvey's Sussex Best over the two days, I know exactly what it is meant to look and taste like. The unholy mess that I was served here did not even need to be sampled. Straight back to the bar, changed and pump clip reversed, apology accepted. Alas, the next pint, a Romney Amber, looked exactly the same. How many times can a man take a pint back before being banned? I simply struggled through it, sat outside in a busy nautically themed foody pub. Moaning to myself.

Shame, as it is pretty

Late on night 1, but still not dark, I ventured into the Ship Inn at 9:30pm for a half of Long Man Best Bitter. Nothing going on, and the staff were obviously keen to get home. They told a group of three German's that last orders had been called at the frankly bizarre time of 9:45pm and they wouldn't be served. I saw them forlornly walking the dark streets later and apologised on behalf of British Hospitality. The next group to be refused service 5 minutes later unsuccessfully played the "even to residents?" card after being refused service. I almost got involved in the row, but needed to use google to check the law first.

Need to work on the hospitality side of hospitality

A slight improvement at The Old Bell. A sign claiming it to be Rye's oldest pub but I am sure the Mermaid would like a word. A nice line in Greek Food, which I could take advantage of on the second night. I just needed to track down bar staff to serve an excellent Harvey's. One staff member running the bar, the table clearing and the waitressing.

A nice patio out front to watch the world go by and determine how to get to the Mermaid.

Harvey's in the Oldest

Turns out the little cobbled alley opposite does take you right to the door to this old hotel, with two bars and a little courtyard. Liveried staff running around looking after the diners. I thought that £2.50 for a half of excellent Harvey's was a small entrance fee to such a museum of a place.

The Way to the Mermaid

May not be everyone's cup of tea, but I loved it

Which leaves the Waterworks for the Good Beer Guide Tick. A micro housed in the you guessed it.

Exactly how a micro should be. A wide range of interesting drinks. Served by knowledgeable and super friendly staff. Quirky decor, signage and joke facilities.

Having had my fill of gravity poured ales during the many micros of Kent, I moved onto the Cider... working my way through 3 pints over 2 visits. Blogfans will know I had company on night 2. 

They have reported home to Mrs M that I have started drinking out of flagons. I could almost hear the tutting from Worcestershire.

Take your pick - I worked the right hand column

Pubrules - we all like Air Con

From Flagon to Glass

Closest I have come to pulling a pint

17/06/25 - Saxon Shore Way - Stage 10 - Hamstreet to Rye

Stalked 

Two nights in Rye. Home of the Mapp and Lucia novels. Kind of made sense for an extended Mappiman stay.

It's stunning: walk medieval cobbled streets, drink in ancient pubs, and admire the ever-changing architecture. Eat the best curry I have ever had at the Mahdi Spice. I don't say that lightly - and I will never have a biryani with dal again.

Bread crust removed to reveal a pot of joy

Not without slight disappointment though. I’m here on a Monday and Tuesday, but the Ypres Castle—much admired on social media and a place I am desperate to visit—doesn’t open until Thursday.

Jeffrey Jon Bell, why do you forsake me?

I'm getting ahead myself - and the pubs will probably need a separate blog. First the walking.

The train whisks me back to Hamstreet.

Early walking on the Saxon Shore Way (SSW) is through Gusbourne Vineyard. Field after field, with information boards explaining what’s growing (or not), alongside jolly grape pickers working the vines.

English Wine

For the first time in days, the SSW has civilisation on route. I reached Appledore by 11 am—just too early for the pub on the wide high street. Half a mile on, and the Ferry Inn is a very civilised opener. Harvey's Sussex Best showing how close I am to the border.

A wonderful pint. In my Top 3 beers, if you are interested.

Sussex Best, very nearly in Sussex

A prolonged liquid pre-lunch before hitting the trail again. I get to understand how the Romney Marsh drainage system works by walking along Reading Sewer, before rejoining my old friend, the Royal Military Canal for the final stretch to Rye.

Military Canal Walking

Do you ever get the feeling you are being watched?

My son and his girlfriend have returned yesterday from five months in Australia. They are in the same county as me, but it is a 2 hour trip from Horsham to Rye. I never thought for minute that jet-lagged, and with a meetup planned for the weekend anyway, they would make the journey. 

Armed with vague information from Mrs M of my card transactions they want to surprise me when I settle down for a post walk pint.

I'm being followed

They are too late for me at the Globe Inn Marsh. They follow me on my hunt for afternoon tiffin, with laughs provided when my pork‑pie quest from 'Simon the Pie Man' came up empty.

Eventually, they give up the chase and ask if I am coming down at my digs in the Hope Anchor.

A re-union that made my trip and now I've got company for Rye Pubs!

Emotional Mappiman, Ambushed

Walk Details

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9

Distance - 11.7 Miles

Geocaches - 2

 

16/06/25 - Saxon Shore Way - Stage 9 - West Hythe to Hamstreet

Canal Dreams

Easy bus journey from Folkestone to West Hythe, timed to perfection to meet the breakfast offerings at Unit 1. Get in quick on a Monday morning before the local rambling group overpower the place.

Then it's decision time... To be true to the Saxon Shore Way (SSW), I would have to climb up a busy lane with no pavement to walk about a mile on the ridge, only to drop back down to the Royal Military Canal I am stood next to.

Easy navigation canal walking it is. And what a feat of engineering the Royal Military Canal is.

The Royal Military Canal was constructed between 1804 and 1809 as a defensive measure during the Napoleonic Wars, running 28 miles from Seabrook near Folkestone to Cliff End near Hastings. Built to deter and delay a feared French invasion, the canal formed a barrier along the vulnerable Romney Marsh, allowing British troops to move quickly along its northern bank while impeding enemy progress.

A Military Canal

There's next to nothing to report on this leg of the SSW. I have headed inland - with the Romney Marsh below. This is an area of land reclaimed from the sea through sea walls and drainage.  It looks far more interesting on the map than in real life. OS Maps showing no greenery and a maze of waterways. Occasionally, the nuclear power station at Dungeness comes into view.

Romney Marsh

For the walker, it's just sheep fields and woodland. No civilisation, nowhere for refreshments and only a trail of geocaches to provide entertainment until the railway station at Hamstreet whisks me to Rye.

And what an amazing place that is!

Walk Details

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8

Distance - 11.5 Miles

Geocaches - 22

15/06/25 - The Good Beer Guide Pubs of Folkestone, Kent

Hurrah to the Civic Planners!

I can't think a place I have been more surprised by or enjoyed than Folkestone.

A promenade with sweeping sea views. A creative quarter that hints at a thriving arts scene. A blend of Victorian and Georgian architecture—my digs for the night sat in a crescent that wouldn’t look out of place in Bath. But the real standout is the Harbour Arm. Once a derelict railway line, it’s now a bustling social hub, home to everything from Club Med-style outdoor discos to tap houses tucked inside old shipping containers. It left me wondering why more towns don’t show the same kind of ambition. Build it, and they will come.

Sun over the Harbour Arm

Will the 5 Good Beer Guide entries in town live up to the high standards?

Of course, there will be Micros. The Bouverie Tap being the first. Extended into the next shop, with walls covered in pubby memorabilia. Possibly of interest to me tomorrow, they open on weekends for breakfast. I may return tomorrow to add a sausage to my Caterbury Ales Friar's Ale order.

Classic Micro

The Firkin Alehouse is a more functional micro consisting of two rooms. The front room, all hard seating and customers.The back room empty and full of comfy sofas. For a man on a six day walking mission there was only going to be one winner. I may be in competition for mileage with the owner, who has to walk from the bar to a closed off room to fetch pints (mainly from Kentish brewers). A man has never been more in need of a hatch.

More Micro Madness

I am in need of a proper pub. And the East Cliffe Tavern certainly ticks that box. On every trip, there is a standout location and this is it.

Unassuming Back Street

Look at the photo? Would you say it is open? I actually balanced on those stacked chairs to check Google Maps as I was convinced it was shut. Gaining confidence that it said it was open, I burst through the door. An old man that has a hint of popeye about him. A lady sat there crocheting a doily. Her husband.

And then there is the guy serving. 81 years young Richard. Stopped and shuffling. I order a pint which he duly pours and then looks at my card as though he has never seen one before. "Cash Only", he says.

We have a problem. I have no cash. He shrugs he shoulders and says, "I can have it for free". 

Pubs are never going to survive with this business model, so I gain instructions on the nearest cash machine. Crochet lady offers to walk me there. I tell her that's very kind but I don't need chaperoning.

I'm sure that to a person, they thought I wouldn't be coming back. But I have stories to tell. The lad walking past me at the ATM cries out in pain. A victim of a drive-by shooting with someone armed with an air-rifle. Maybe I did need chaperoning after all.

I return and spend 90 minutes drinking god knows what... a tasty Kentish Pale Ale the only cask but I was that absorbed in conversation with the three regulars that Untapped took a back seat.

About what? Well I cannot help but spread gossip when I tell you that Popeye's ex-wife went on to marry his sister and they all lived together for 7 years. 

With pint one gone, I had to ask if Richard had fallen asleep before ordering a second. Slumped in a chair and snoring the response was "Yeah, he does that!". I didn't feel I knew him well enough to wake him, so they shouted "Richard!". He was up like a boxer on the count of nine.

An incredible experience. I had enough cash to stay longer and get into the rounds that my new friends were insisting upon but more work is required.

And my cash will go a lot further in the grandest of 'spoons. The Samuel Peto (named after the builder of Nelson's Column) is a grand old church. Lit up at night, with bouncers on the doors and the Folkestone Youth getting trollied on £2.29 Cask Jaipur. Not often that I am in a JDW on a Saturday night. All life is within.

The view from The Folkestone Beer Shop - where drinks are 4x the price

Sunday, and I realised that I had missed a micro. Easily done. Kipps Alehouse the pick of the three micros in town, with the most eclectic and interesting beer collection. Zot on draught at not extortionate prices is always a pleasure.

Pint of Zot

15/06/25 - Saxon Shore Way - Stage 8 - Folkestone to West Hythe

How to Escape Folkestone?

I left the Saxon Shore Way (SSW) about 4 miles to the east of Folkestone. How to resume? I have the grand idea over scrambled eggs to get an Uber to the Battle of Britain Museum. In the app it showed 'busier than usual', followed by 'try again another day'.

Looking at the map, I can access the path on a footpath that steeply ascends Creteway Down to the north. Like many an idea of mine, it is flawed. Very badly overgrown and my Rohan Stretch Bags take a right battering with the thistles. At least I wasn't wearing shorts, I would have been cut to shreds.

On high, the path shows itself as a series of ups and downs as the 2000 year old shoreline moves further away from the current position of the sea. Sugarloaf Hill and Caesar's Camp providing an early morning workout. 

The M20 dissecting Sugar Loaf and Caesar's Camp

The views are dominated by the never ending Channel Tunnel Terminal. The SSW seems to completely avoid any civilisation, so nothing is passed and no refreshments available. Only one pair of walkers seen all day. 

I declared the walking over at Shepway Cross for a steep drop down to the Royal Military Canal, which will be my friend for the remainder of the walk. There, in West Hythe, is the incredibly popular ‘Good Beer Guide tick’ pub, Unit 1. Packed to capacity with families in an outside garden.

Shepway Cross

The heat required German Keg. A well-received Krombacher before the bus back into Folkestone. 

Krombacher with a water chaser

Walk Details

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7

Distance - 13 Miles

Geocaches - 5

14/06/25 - Saxon Shore Way - Stage 7 - Deal to Folkestone

Dover is Over

The longest day on the Saxon Shore Way (SSW). Yet, surprisingly little happens.

A circuitous exit from Deal, investigating the unexplored southern part of town via Adventure Lab Caches. The military history; ancient castles and the Royal Marines.

Beach launched fishing boats

Deal Castle...

... and Walmer Castle, a little further down the coast

The Zetland Arms is passed a little too early. I may have been tempted if it wasn't a Shepherd Neame pub. No one needs Master Brew for breakfast. It's Special or nothing.

Likewise, the Coastguard Pub at St Margeret's Bay. Double digit miles to go, I'll keep plodding.

St Margeret's Bay - the SSW forces you down and back up again

Then Dover comes into view. And stays in view for a long time. The sky has a weird haze - almost fog-like - a hangover from last night's storm probably. Photos of large passenger ferries moving in and out of the harbour walls are poor. I can't bring you the White Cliffs of Dover, as I am on them.

Dover Patrol on the headland

Then there is the town itself. Whoever Dover was designed for, it wasn't the pedestrian. Crossing roads is near impossible - they are practically motorways, with fast vehicles and central reservation barriers. The signage, when you need it most, disappears. The Good Beer Guide Pubs that are open are up on high in town and away from the SSW. I’m not about to turn this blog into a political rant, but the type of people loitering on street corners might explain why BOOKING.COM is suddenly demanding proof of my nationality at check-in.

Inspiration from Churchill comes to mind. If you are going through hell, keep going.

Crossing Dover on Foot is not for the faint hearted

The cliffs are gained via a precipitous staircase at Western Heights. Where there is a Young Offenders Institute marked on the OS Map. I suppose they have to go somewhere, so may as well be Dover.

A frequent series of Geocaches takes me towards Folkestone. Which is a huge, sprawling town. The odometer clicks onto 15 miles and the watch 3 o'clock. That's plenty, I say to myself. 

The bus can take the strain for the last few miles from the Royal Oak Pub.

This, at the cost of the Battle of Britain Museum, which I can resume my journey from tomorrow. 

Walk Details

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6

Distance - 15 Miles

Geocaches - 27

13/06/25 - The Good Beer Guide Pubs of Deal, Kent

2 Micros, a Trad and a 'Spoons Tea

I've wanted to visit Deal. Famous for smuggling, naval history and the only pier in Kent open to the public. It was ITV crime series Liar, with its never ending drone footage, they really whetted my appetite.

A lengthy first day resuming the Saxon Shore Way and I am here for the pubs. Three in the Good Beer Guide but first I need feeding.

The Sir Norman Wisdom - a JDW offering chicken in a basket and cask Jaipur for just over a tenner. My budget planning in full swing.

Pint - a thing of beauty for the obscene price of £2.29

A modern 'Spoons

This is Kent. There are going to be a lot of micros and we have two over the road from each other.

Knowledge required for The Just Reproach. I am experienced enough with micros to know that I need to find the chalk board on entry but this outlet throws up confusion. There is no bar. You need to look around for a server, who will probably identify you before you identify them. You order, they disappear to back room and bring back a pint that has definitely been gravity dispensed. That easy to fall into conversation with strangers that I have failed to record what it was. Most likely a traditional Kentish Ale, offering the highest ABV per £. That is my modus operandi and I am sticking with it.

The bench to my right was my home

Architecturally impossible to tell the difference between this and Smugglers Records over the road. Less choice on the cask but (from what I noticed) a much bigger selection of international bottled beers and keg offerings. One single cask (Howling Hops Party Wave), on display in a fridge, with the tap the only thing added since delivery from the brewery. Not hard to get in the Good Beer Guide, is it?

Not the first record shop I had drunk in

A peruse of the records. Nirvana's Bleach going for £36. I vow to have a sort out of my garage when I get home to fund future adventures.

A view from a window sill, leaning on a plate glass window

A pretty walk along the terraced buildings of many architectural style that is Middle Street. I am looking for the Ship Inn. The name that is always a guarantee of pub quality.

Unlike pubs with "Railway" in the name

Everything I look for in a pub. Low ceilings, atmospheric low lighting from candles in old brandy bottles, nooks and indeed crannies around a central bar. A second Gadds of the day, Number 5, leaving me with two questions. Will I ever see lacings, least of all a head on my beer this week? Was it really £3 a pint.

Time to head home for nature's fire-work display that is a quite spectacular thunder and lightening storm. Locals told me it was the best/worst that they have ever seen. Dover, where I am heading tomorrow, has parked cars floating down residential streets.