16/04/19 - More Dublin Pub Ticking

Previous Trips - Pub Crawl 1, Pub Crawl 2


You can't really know a City until you know it's pubs.   I think I know Dublin.

Third visit in recent years and I have nearly exhausted these lists - Culture Trip to Dublin Bars and Dublin's Best 25 Bars. 

Over 2 April nights, I added the following ticks.

Mulligans, Poolbeg Street

Great planning meant that my work colleague and myself were in different hotels.   Mulligans, plotted into Google Maps, looked half way between us.   A fraught trip across the Liffey, where the local sewer rats were pelting pedestrians at the crossing with eggs, and I am in this back street boozer, opposite a soon to be demolished office block.

View from the Sunny Side of the Street

My work colleague doesn't like Guinness but he did appreciate being taken to an authentic Irish pub on his first visit to Dublin.   They don't come much more authentic that a 1782 institution.

History Today

The Dubliners we are working with congratulated us on our choice.   I think they expected us to end up in an All Bar One.

Toners, Baggot Street

Got to say, if you are heading to Dublin and want some proper pubs away from Temple Bar, then head to Baggot Street.   The next three are all in a line waiting to be discovered.

Toners is winner of Snug of the Year.   After battling my way through the crowd of drinkers at the door, I managed to get a seat at the bar and ask the staff about it.   They offered to let me walk behind the bar to reach it, at the shop front.   I declined, I was in too deep. 

I did get a glance of it on the way out.   A packed pub and the key feature sat unused.

Snug of the Year in the left hand front Window.

Doheny and Nesbitt, Baggot Street

Just over the road and another fine example of Victorian pub interiors.   This is simply gorgeous.  Every wall decorated in Whisky themed mirrors and pub paraphernalia.  I felt it pointless to ask if they stocked it, but they even had the famous Bass Triangle.

Exterior hides a wonderful interior

They even had a snug, and Toners is going some if it won Snug of the Year.   I commandeered it, until someone with more pressing needs required it.   A hungry looking family. 

I retired to the bar to start watching Barcelona dismantle Man Utd.

View from a Snug

O Donoghues, Merrion Row

Over the junction and Baggot Street turns into Merrion Row.   Here we find a pub with a proud history of Irish music.   Multi roomer, totally authentic and well worth seeking out.

Home of Traditional Irish Music

Perfect Pub

Bleeding Horse, Camden Street

I was never going to turn down a visit to such an unusually named pub but the Bleeding Horse was not as I expected.    It looked modern.  It has a history running back to the C17th.   Full of tv screens showing the football and no free space at all.   Not what I was looking for.

Older than it looks but beware Irish Pubs promoting Carlsberg

Devitts, Camden Street

Reminding me of the Long Hall from pub crawl two, this is a long thin pub, with a huge bar.  Nowhere to perch downstairs, so I follow the signage advice to find the upstairs bar.   Its locked.  Back down just in time to stand and watch the two talented musicians starting their set.

First Lounge Bar of the Night

Little Room at the Inn

Stags Head, 1 Dame Court

Making my way back across the Liffey, trusting the egg chuckers have either gone to bed or been arrested, and I am nearly in the heart of Temple Bar.

Stags Head

Place available at the bar to observe the comedy bar man run through his full range of tourist teasing japes.   He was rather good at his job, especially when it came to upselling whiskey.   I was tempted but it was a school night.

I need to re-watch Educating Rita and see if I can identify the interior shots.

Bankers, Trinity Street

A nice looking boozer in the heart of the City that I couldn't resist a visit.  However, I was the only punter, which led for a strange atmosphere after the how busy all the other establishments were.

I'll have to try again, earlier in the evening.

The Bankers

Think that's Dublin over for pub blogging, but you never know.   There may be others not found over the three visits.

What a City for pub architecture!

13/04/19 - Inn Way to Peak District Summary

Distance of the Inn Way to the Peak District - 89
Days completed in - 6
Pubs Visited - 31 visited out of the 51 promised in the guide.  Just a handful closed down permanently and several not open on Monday/Tuesday.   Three Stag Heads in Wardlow Mires only open at weekends - and that looked a real experience (see day 4)
Geocaches - 49
Timeframe - 08/04/19 to 13/04/19
Previous Inn Way Summaries - Yorkshire Dales, Lake District and North Yorkshire Moors.



My fourth annual Inn Way and I struck lucky.   Its the weather that can make or break these trips and I had a full week of blue skies and the only drop of water to land on my head was in the Monsal Tunnel.

I could have saved weight in the Osprey by ditching the waterproofs.

The walking on this route is spectacular and provides a great feel for the area - the wild edges of Stanage, Curbar and Froggatt, the gentle Country Houses and then the magnificence of the Hope Valley.   Absolutely terrific walking.

It also felt a lot less isolated than previous Inn Ways - especially last years North Yorkshire Moors.  The nightly locations had multiple entertainment options - including twin chipper Tideswell and the pub crawl that can easily be fashioned from a night in Castleton.

A wonderful experience.

As with all undertakings - there needs to be a roll of honour.

Best Walk - Day 3 - Just gets better and better - Complete Lathkill Dale, drop down to the River Wye and then climb for stunning views over the Monsal Trail.
Best Pub - Day 2 - The Bulls Head, Youlgrave.   A Tuesday night and it felt like the entire community had come out.  Football was on the TV, the darts team were preparing for a tricky away game and various other tourists were dining in the back room.   Proper pub banter.
Best Pint - Day 4 - Theakston Best Bitter at the Peak Hotel, Castleton.   Up untill Castleton, the beer was middling.   Castleton addressed this, with every pub offering high quality product.   Price range over the week £3.30 (Cock and Pullettt, Sheldon) to £5.40 (Peacock, Rowsley).
Best Meal - Day 6 - Unusually, no pies were harmed in the production of this walk.   Apart from a lunchtime Pork Pie in Eyam.   Once again, few menus offered anything exotic, so I was delighted with the last day Balti at Sangams in Hathersage.
Advice - I chose to not follow the order in the book and start at Hathersage - where there is a train station or long term parking available if you book a ticket on line from the Derbyshire Dales website.  No issues with accommodation. 

Each leg of the walk has been detailed on a separate blog, available at the link;

Day 1 - Hathersage to Baslow - 13 Miles
Day 2 - Baslow to Yougrave - 12 Miles
Day 3 - Youlgrave to Tideswell - 16 Miles
Day 4 - Tideswell to Castleton - 15 Miles
Day 5 - Castleton to Hayfield - 12 Miles
Day 6 - Hayfield to Hathersage - 18 Miles

The Photo Album on Flickr

13/04/19 - Day 6 - Inn Way to Peak District - Hayfield to Hathersage

Start - Hayfield
Finish - Hathersage
Distance -  18 Miles
Key Features - Snake Path, Kinder Reservoir, William Clough, Winhill Pike
Geocaches - 15
Pubs - 4 Visited, 7 Available
Previous Days - Day 1, Day 2, Day 3, Day 4, Day 5


So this is it.  Another year's adventure comes to an end.   An end of waking up and only having to concentrate on the next Full English Breakfast, pint and putting one foot in front of another.

You may remember from Day 1 that I've started slightly out of sync.   This walk is the first in the book but my final day.   Its also the longest - 18 miles in store for today.

But there is method in my madness.   As well as the transport benefits, this leg provides a summary of most of the walk, where you can see the edges and the Hope valley for a final reminder.   Besides, if you did 18 miles on day 1, you may be in danger of never starting day 2.

Leaving Hayfield, a couple of signs remind us of the Mass Trespass that opened up the countryside to Ramblers and the house where Captain Mainwaring was born.

Is it wise to walk 18 miles on the last day?

Mass Trespass

Snake Path gently rises out of Hathersage, overlooking Kinder Reservoir and providing access to the first big climb of the day, up along William Clough.   I've been worried about the distance, but paid no attention to the elevation.   Best part of 3000ft is climbed.

Snake Path

Overlooking Kinder Reservoir

At the top of William Clough, most people are turning right to conquer Kinder Downfall and embark on a fruitless search for Kinder Scout's highest point.   I press on, further north then west to walk through the wilds of Black Ashop Moor.

The terrain reminds of something out of Game of Thrones.   This blog has taken so long, that I still haven't had time to catch up of S8S1.

The Wilds of Black Ashop Moor

Another good point about saving today to the end is that this is the only time I get slightly dirty during the week.   Some serious peat bogs and black earth to navigate.  I dread to think what its like after inclement weather.

A good three mile yomp, where I bump into hopelessly lost Duke of Edinburgh's who should be on the Pennine Way.   I'm able to direct to where this path will intersect with where they need to be and reassure them that their mistake has probably saved them a couple of miles.

Saukin Ridge, after the lost DoE

My route climbs higher than the famous Snake Pass Inn, which hides itself away in the trees, should I have been tempted to divert.   A Roman road takes me to Blackey Hey for the 2nd climb of the day.  The views are mainly behind me.

Where I have been walking

A significant series of Geocaches at the top of Woodlands Valley, overlooking Ladybower, takes my mind of the walking.  Fine views over the Hope Valley and the omnipresent Castleton works comes into view yet again.

I'm just about done in when Winpike Crag is reached.   The end is near.

Go on, have another climb

A very steep drop down into Bamford, where only one of the two pubs remain.   The Anglers is in the Good Beer Guide 2019 and has been rescued by the community.   Pick the wrong door and you end up in the Post Office.   The barman selling me my Chatsword Gold was most interested in how far I had come.

Rescued by the community

Said Barman assures me its only 2 miles to Hathersage and all downhill.    He's half correct but a couple more agricultural climbs are in required.   The village comes into view and somewhere down below is my final bed for the night, the YHA.   At 49, I wonder if I will be the youngest resident again.

The Inn Way to the Peak District is Complete

After checking in, showering and having rescued celebration glad rags from the car, I have just a few more pubs to tick off.

And a summary blog to complete.

Nearest the YHA is the George Hotel.   Now, I keep a record of my pub visits on www.pubsgalore.com and the last review there was from the legendary 20 in a day pubcrawler, the late and great Alan Winfield.   I'll just nick his one star rating, as I couldn't agree more

Alan Winfield left this review about George Hotel
The George is a decent looking pub on the outside but once you get inside things go downhill fast its been completely stripped out with pine floors and modern decor 90% of the pub is laid out for diners but nobody was eating as I was the only customer there was a small bar area in the corner that sold crap beer in the shape of Boddingtons smooth flow,this isnt a pub for locals or normal drinkers don't bother with this place.

On 10th May 2010 - rating: 1

RIP Alan.   Nothings changed in the last nine years, although they've probably replaced the Boddies.

He was happier with the Little John over the road, where I found yet another new brewery - the Welbeck Abbey.   Decent enough locals pubs, with separate pool room and charming locals.

The Night has fallen on Little Johns

Having mainly been fruitless in my search for spicy food all week, I can confirm that Hathersage contains two Indian Restaurants.   It might have my forced abstinence but Sangams provided one of the best Baltis I have ever had.   And I used to work in Sparkhill.

A new cocktail bar called the Bank can be added to the list of hostelries but the final one in the guide is the Scotsmans Pack.    Walked past 6 whole days ago. 

Marstons Pedigree becomes the final pint of this years Inn Way.   I didn't find Little Johns Chair, as the only space was at the bar.

Dodgy photo but its been a long week

I'll be back next year for my final Inn Way. 

Northumberland awaits.

12/04/19 - Day 5 - Inn Way to Peak District - Castleton to Hayfield

Start - Castleton
Finish - Hayfield
Distance -  12 Miles
Key Features - Cave Dale, Peveril Castle, Mam Tor, Great Ridge, Jacobs Ladder
Geocaches - 6
Pubs - 5 Visited, 6 Available
Previous Days - Day 1, Day 2, Day 3, Day 4



Final 2 days on the Inn Way and I know the walking starts to get serious.  Today, I am aware that I have to climb Mam Tor and Jacobs Ladder.   Both have been previously completed but on separate hikes.   Tomorrow, it's an 18 mile finale.

It's a wonderful start (as always).   A last look at Castleton, a place I kind of fell in love with, and find the correct path to Cave Dale and get up close to Peveril Castle.

How was your Friday Morning?

The rear of Peveril Castle

Peveril Castle on the Limestone Way

The Limestone Way is left behind on Bradwell Moor, as I head North West on an arrow straight road.   The obvious prize in the far distance is Mam Tor.   The is a short pull up and I'm on the Great Ridge, following it all the way to Hollins Cross.   Photo opportunities are endless on a clear day.  I have been so lucky with the weather.

Put the GPS Away and head for the lump ahead

The Great Ridge - Views in all direction.

2 pub Edale is the downhill prize and out of the two, I'll take the Old Nags Head.   Hiker's Bar and the official start of the Pennine Way seems more suited to my needs.

I could lie and say I'm off to Kirk Yetholm

Surprisingly quiet at midday, with a family who had already started lunch.   I'll remember it as being cold.   The room was freezing, but the judging by the Black Sheep, the cellar must be an ice room.

Still, I'm fortified to do the first couple of miles on the Pennine Way and prepare for Jacobs Ladder.

All Uphill for a bit

It was nothing to worry about.   And what goes up, must come down.   A long, gentle descent into Hayfield over Oaken Clough.

Looking back over Oaken Clough 

The first pub in Hayfield is the Sportsman - a stiff climb up some steps.   I check with the local exercising their dog in the stream that it will be open at 4pm, before a potentially fruitless ascent.

Adding Thwaites to my list of breweries on the Inn Way

Into town proper to find my digs for tonight.   Another joy of these Inn Ways is staying at coaching houses with centuries of history.   You cannot help but wonder about the lives of other guests that have staying their during a 450 year history.

And their mode of transport more aesthetically pleasing than a red trannie

This is a Marstons pub and I have a road to Damascus experience.   Pedigree Bitter, if kept well, is an absolute joy of a pint.   I was amazed, I always thought it smelled of eggs.

Plenty of time for a rest and put on whatever glad rags I can find in the Osprey before investigating the final three.

The Kinder Lodge is the wrong side of A624 Tracks.   The last time I was in here was when Andy Murray won Wimbledon for the first time.  They were serving strawberries and cream and it was all so civil.

Tonight, there's a handful of colorful locals getting down to Digital Gold, playing 60s music far too loud.   The most refreshed announces its time to leave and puts on his rucksack.   Inquiries from the others as to what was contained within are met with "my escort".   We failed to determine if this was his partner, a car or a magazine before he fessed up and said 6 cans of Stella Artois.

That's breakfast sorted.

A change of Modus Operandi since Andy Murrays Success

The great thing about the British Pub is how they are open to all walks of life and can be wildly different.  I'm off to the Pack Horse now, a pub that I had read was full of wannabie nouveau riche.

I'm not going to argue with their pub furniture though.   I sank that deep into a blood red chesterfield sofa that its a wonder I am not there still.

Bad Early Evening Photo of a Gastropub - Contains Theakstons

From this vantage point, I can do nothing but over hear the conversation of 5 yuppies (does Derbyshire have yuppies) with 3 dogs, none on leads.   The loudest is moaning about the problems he is having with his new BMW 5 Series syncing with Spotify running on Android and how he has taken it back to the dealers.

I would have inwardly groaned, muttered an obscenity about first world problems but I needed to know the answer. 

I have exactly the same problem.

Alas, I will forever be pulling into laybys wishing I had an iPhone.  Just as a potential solution was being revealed, the big chocolate labrador got excited by an incoming collie, swished his tail and sent their pints flying.   His owner went to get mops and replacement pints and the dog escaped into the dining room, to attempt to steal food from the diners' plates.

He was told to put his dog on a lead in the most politest of fashions.

To complete the set, I pop into the Royal Hotel on my way home.   No such dramas in here, but the collies owner has followed me in, saying he was after some peace and quiet.

Another old coaching house with many original features and more Stancill Brewery wares to test, this time a Jaxon Brew number 1.

Royal Hotel by Night