08/05/22 - Saxon Shore Way - Stage 2 - Rochester to Lower Halstow

Distance - 11.5 Miles

Geocaches - 4

Pubs 3

Previous Stages - Stage 1

Day 2 on the Saxon Shore Way and I am hoping my walking partner's sense of direction - and map reading skills - are basic. Plenty of miles are walked but at the end of the day, our hotel is in Gillingham. Less than 3 miles from Rochester, our digs for last night.

Let me explain.

We're following the coastal path - and walking should stop at Newington. A village with no accommodation options but a handily placed railway station. Gillingham has 3 Good Beer Guide entries and an independent hotel. Sounds like a plan.

So we leave Rochester - impressed by its history, Goachers Brewery and Wetherspoons hotel rooms to explore the North of the Town. One thing we learn from this trip, is that it's impossible to tell where one Medway town ends and the next begins. Rochester turns to Chatham which turns to Gillingham with only increasing levels of "roughness" to tell them apart.

We walk past our independent hotel. I don't tell Paul we could drop our rucksacks off and Ramble free.You never know how plans can change.

The Medway from a Medway Town, Rochester

Not often a ramble takes me through 1960s shopping centres but the rambling proper starts after about 90 minutes when we pick up the footpath along the Medway.

Our View for the Day

It's pleasant walking in the sunshine, if not a little monotonous. There are some Geocaches to break things up but even I am not cruel enough to insist we complete the unnecessary horseshoe shaped deviation of Motney Hill. Not when the OS Map details two Big Blue Cups of Joy on the road that knocks off a mile.

Of course, one is long gone. The Angel survives - although if I was a betting man, I would not put money on it staying for too much longer.

It's down at heel - with a front room that hasn't been decorated in years. Entertainment provided by local radio and a table that holds a Sky receiver and bizarrely, as Tom Tom Sat Nav. The elderly landlord has no other customers to interrupt his facebooking and the welcome provided cannot be classed as warm, until we order our second pint.

But there are signs of loveliness. Two CAMRA awards are proudly displayed behind the bar - from the early 2000s. A second Goachers Gold Star of the week, has the first pint pulled through before my glass is filled. And like last night, it is gorgeous.

We take them through to a suntrap garden full of discarded gardening equipment and bikes. My Untappd checkin lists the pub as "The Angle".

Paul decides its the sort of place he CAN take his boots off.

We loved it. And it was a wrench to leave, even when we have views like this to accompany our walk.

More of the Medway

Little to report until we arrive at Lower Halstow - where the Three Tuns is the polar opposite of the Angel. A very smart GastroPub, with an immaculate garden packed with the Medway's finest Sunday lunchers.

Paul Celebrates Success - Today's Walking is over

Another pair of Goachers Gold Star and we cannot be arsed for the 1 mile walk to the hourly train at Newington. We have money, a smartphone and the smooth talking charms to convince a Medway cab firm to come and rescue us.

Which leaves Gillingham - with its 3 Good Beer Guide Ticks - for our entertainment.  Normally, this would be enough for a separate blog but Sunday hours are not kind. Google suggests the Past and Present is closed, the Frog and Toad is open till 8pm and the Will Adams is open till 11.

Frog and Toad it is first - a honest looking back street boozer that has a beer garden where we can watch the sunset over the terraced housing. Tanners Ales Box of Frogs, a decent session ale.

Sunset falls on the Frog and Toad where Mappiman throw shapes

Dining options are limited but we do find a lovely Greek Restaurant, disguising itself as a Hollywood "Burger and Ribs" joint. It's almost like its too scared to announce its authenticity but with the first two items on the menu a Stifado and a Kelftiko, we know what to order.

Appetite sated, I march Paul off to find the Will Adams.

Twitter records the results.

Oh bollocks. Google said 11. pic.twitter.com/tYndLbRdZP

— Mappiman (@Mappiman1) May 8, 2022

07/05/2022 - The Good Beer Guide Pubs of Rochester

Good Beer Guide Pubs - #622-#664

A first visit to a Medway Town, arriving on foot/bus 6.5 hours after leaving Gravesend.

Will Rainham, Chatham and Gillingham be just as pretty?  We can only hope.

Saturday Night and there are four Good Beer Ticks to aim for - although I would be testing my walking partners patience, if I were to suggest the out of town. The Who'd Ha' Thought It awaits a repeat visit.

We'll concentrate on the accessible.

Man of Kent Ale House, 6-8 John Street, Goachers Gold Star Ale

A beautifully pubby exterior that leaves only a slight challenge in finding the accessible door.

Styles and Winch - a brewery from Maidstone

It's the little brown door on the right we need - which has a big blue Covid notice, saying that if it is locked - knock. I've failed to record if this offer is time-bound, or if you can just knock at anytime of day.

Thankfully, it is open and we are met by a mask wearing landlady who instantly asks "are you with Mick's Party?". Strangers in a strange town, we would if Mick would have us.

There's an interesting collection of those massive Germanic Bar Pumps from Paulaner. I could have been tempted with a dunkel but there have been delivery issues. Even a couple of Midlanders have heard of Operation Stack.

Paulaner Pumps Aplenty

After much deliberation of the Real Ale sections of the chalkboards, I settle for a previously unheard of brewery - Goachers. Excellent pint of Gold Star.

We enquire of the landlady where somewhere good would be to eat. She asks the regulars. Including the regulars that come in.  By the time our pints are gone, we have determined that the Thais have gone back to Thailand, there are two Cheese Rooms, Brettington's Steak and Lobster is pretentious and the burger place called Smoqe was good enough for Mick last night.

Armed with information we head off. The burgers were good.  Tattoo'ed goons on gak, less so.

Coopers Arms, St Margrets Street, Youngs Special

I've been enjoying some lively debate on Twitter about Britain's Oldest Pub.

Planning to investigate claims for the oldest pub in the British Isles. Looking for a few pointers. What I need is: 1) Name/location of pub, 2) Date claimed, 3) firm archaeological/archival evidence which positively backs the claim up. Latter is the most important. Can you help!? pic.twitter.com/pBsyOoom8D

— James Wright (@jpwarchaeology) May 5, 2022

I've added this to the list - with a building dated from 1189 and a pub since 1543.  James is an (Ancient) pub expert and having shattered my illusions on the Trip, the Fighting Cocks and the Porch House Inn, I am looking forward to this latest suggestion being debunked :-)

 

Doesn't look too old

Low ceilings, central bar and I only noticed the hand pulls - and not the full range detailed on the chalk board.  The Timothy Taylor Landlord would have won over the chosen Youngs Special.

Full of Dickens Nick Nacks, we were enjoying our visit until the child with the uncontrollable cough starting hacking up. A deathly silence fell over the pub, as all us boozers thought exactly the same thing. But what's etiquette these days?  Sod it, I'll say what we were all thinking here.

Kids shouldn't be in pubs after dark.

Low Ceilings make for poor ventilation

The Golden Lion, High Street, Otter Bright

Why just tick Good Beer Guide pubs, when you can stay in them?

An arrival photo.

Yes, this is my first experience of a JDW overnighter - and it was wonderful. Comfy beds, beautiful bathroom, two packets of biscuits and bottled water. On check-in, we asked if breakfast was included.  Our host stated that breakfasts are that cheap, we shouldn't even need to ask.

And he was right.

Our 10pm return saw a massive queue of about 40 kids at the door, held back by bouncers. The thrill of walking to the front, getting all the "Oi Mates" and saying "We are residents" is as close to VIP treatment as we will ever get.

Of course, the Youth all started up with "We are residents, too". But our Saint Peter in Satin was not going to fall for that.

Neither was he going to fall for the the Youth inside opening the side door to let in a gaggle of their mates.

For sheer drama, this was the best £2.10* I have ever spent. 

Code Two was shouted into walkie talkies.  More Buddha's with mace were summonsed.  But the group had long dispersed and there's plenty of places to hide in a JDW barn.

*PS:  (Room was extra).

*PPS: (Breakfast was also extra)

07/05/22 - Saxon Shore Way - Stage 1 - Gravesend to Rochester

Distance - 15 Miles

Geocaches - 1

Pubs 3

Saxon Shore Way - A Personal Introduction

The SSW runs for 153 miles from Gravesend to Hastings, following the coastline of Kent as it was 2000 years ago.  

I was keen to explore a part of the world that is new to me - looking forward to visiting coastal towns, in vogue from recent ITV dramas. Only on planning was I marginally disappointed that it missed out on Ramsgate and Margate - up and coming hipster towns, according to the weekend broadsheets.  Deal, Rye and Hastings are firmly on the trail.

With a week's holiday, I can knock off half the route. Unusually, I have company. Paul will be able to compare notes with Mrs M as to whether there is any fun in being dragged half way across new towns just to get a Good Beer Guide Tick.

The rules we set ourselves are simple;

1. No point in suffering - if we have had enough, and public transport allows, we will modify plans accordingly
2. Full English Breakfasts will be submitted to social media for comparison ratings
3. No Pub on route that is open will be unvisited. 

Day 1 - Gravesend to Rochester

Advance rail tickets purchased weeks ago and Avanti do their best to put the kibosh on the whole adventure by cancelling the 6:55am from Sandwell and Dudley. Lack of crew availability, an excuse that's wearing increasingly thin. 

A pacey walk from Euston to Kings Cross and we manage to make our booked connecting Javelin Train with 5 minutes to spare and only one upset Cockney. Paul hasn't quite got used the extra breadth a 45l Lowe Alpine rucksack adds. No need to cry about spilled coffee is there, Geezer?

A short drop through the Gravesend shopping area to pick up the start of the path at the Pier.

Gravesend Pier - with the Tilbury Ferry

Hard to think of less salubrious start to a Long Distance Path.  Within a mile in and we are forced to leave the official trail through a "Path Closed Sign". I can add "Dangerous Tyres" to a growing list of on the fly re-routing.

Paul's introduction to Long Distance Walking - an industrial estate, where he can comment on worker's children's haircuts before they are out of earshot. The mullet is coming back.

Next Year, the Yorkshire Dales

Less than a mile later, we are breaking rule number 3 - although, it required Internet Based research to confirm this.  With no signage at the rear - with the exception of a neon "Open Sign" - we were unsure what was being offered from this building.

Vaguely Pub Shaped

This is Gravesend's Ship and Lobster.  Here it is from the front, from Google Maps.  Surprisingly, the reviews are uniformly good, along with "Don't judge a book by its cover".

Would you have guessed?

At Eastcourt Marshes, we break out from industrial bleakness for estuary bleakness.  Low tide Thames, no river traffic, Dartford Bridge behind, artillery forts and gravel extraction works in front.

Gravel

1860's Artillery Forts

Navigational expertise required to circumvent the flooded ponds of Cliffe Pools Nature reserve.

Cliffe's Six Bells provides the first pub stop.  A Shepherd's Neame tied house (we'll learn more about this brewery later in the week) with no cask offerings.  Fitting with the day that San Miguel in front of a bouncy castle is pint 1 on the SSW.  The bouncy castle is deflated once the rain starts. 

Fun, until until the Fun Stops

Classier looking pub than it's offerings

Rain required a relocation inside, where the barmaids are incredulous at our heroics and the old boys suggest taking the bus - temptingly idling directly outside the pub.

Not long till the next refreshments, I reassure Paul and we head out to take a quick photo of Cooling Castle, before finding the Horseshoe and Castle.

Cooling Castle

A chance to escape the rain at Cooling Horseshoe and Castle

A long wait at the bar for a Nelson Brewery (Medway Town Micro Brewery) Pieces of Eight is explained by the sole harassed barmaid.  Its someone's 103rd Birthday in the next room.  Honestly, I was joking when I said "Were you giving her the bumps?"

Paul, weighing up the options.  For 10 minutes.

The rain has knocked off but crop fields and orchards or whatever you call the place where hops are grown, soak us through to the socks.  Never a good start for blisters when you are gently softening the soles of your feet.

We'll say little about the five miles to Hoo St Werburgh. Enough words were had with ourselves on route.  We've walked 15 miles and Hoo has a pub with one less bell than Cliffe, a shop called "Hoo's News and Booze" and all importantly, an every 30 minute bus to our home for the night.

Rochester, here we come..... on the 191.

Just Five Bells at Hoo.  And London Pride

23/04/22 - Shoulder of Mutton, Holcombe

Distance - 5 Miles

Geocaches - 5 and an Adventure Lab Cache

Walk Inspiration

A weekend in Manchester, where we find ourselves babysitting the closest we will probably get to grandchildren, our daughter's Guide Dog in Training Boarder, Bee.  

I am tasked with finding a walk that is dog friendly in the Greater Manchester Area. The dog wants somewhere off lead. I want a reasonable pub. Visit Manchester has a number of leaflets available for download. My introduction to the South Pennines are the villages of Ramsbottom and Holcombe.

We start near the Peel Tower and head down a cobbled trackway called the Holcombe Old Road.  This would not be out of place in an episode of Last of the Summer Wine. It's Brooksbottom before Bee can be allowed of lead and she has a fine frolic in the stream.  

Old Holcombe Road

Running under Peel Tower

Guide Dog in training Bee testing the water at Brooksbottom

A lovely section of woodland leads to the Irlam Valley way and into Ramsbottom. Lovely little village, with a very independent feel to the shops in the high street. An Adventure Lab Cache would have been easier if we had not got distracted by the Craft Beer Micro Pub.  The locations and information contained within did prove useful for our eventual refreshment choice.

Coming into Ramsbottom along the River Irwell

Its a stiff climb out of Ramsbottom to Holcombe - onto the edge of moorland. We had noticed the sturdy looking Shoulder of Mutton on the drive in.  

Handsome.  Sturdy.

As a tourist, I would be happy enough with the history contained on their website.  A pub since 1751, with a disorderly reputation. Cockfighting continued long after the the 1859 ban and into the 1930s.  Added irony, as the Peel Tower monument overlooking the pub is in memory of the founder of the modern Police Force.

Timothy Taylor Landlord is not often turned down but I went experimental for a fine, first pint of Moorhouse Brewery Blonde Witch.

The final location for the Adventure Lab Cache is here, so a quick read up details further pub information. It was damaged in a WW1 Zeppelin bomb attack, where the customers had to shelter in the pub cellars.

I can feel a new tick list coming on. So far, two entries - this and London's Dolphin Tavern.