30/07/24 - West Midlands Way - Stage 1 - Meriden to Kenilworth

Resurrecting a 45 Year Old Guide Book

Constable Guides - same publisher that released The London Countryway - have a book closer to home.

Written in 1979, its a long distance walk around the Midlands. I'm deliberately not looking at the overall route, saving surprises for the planning days.

Stage 1 takes me from the Centre of England - Meriden - to Kenilworth. Uh Oh..... I'm getting Centenary Way vibes of HS2 style disasters here. Still, if HS2 is not progressing North of Birmingham, I'm only going to have to deal with this issue once.

An easy two bus, one train journey out and I am alighting the 82 bus at Meriden Village Green. Lots of monuments - to cyclists and its geographical significance. Adventure Lab Caches before I get going.

Centre of England

Cyclists Memorial

Familiar paths, previously walked. Today's route is completed on the Heart of England Way and the Millennium Way. It's not hardship walking this ancient and unchanging part of the West Midlands. Good paths through crops, with the only signs of the modern world the distant City views and planes coming in to land at Birmingham Airport.

St Laurence's, Meriden

As expected, Berkswell is where it goes wrong. A last chance of normal walking and history, as I explore the church, preaching cross and well but I can hear pile hammers and the beeps of trucks reversing.

Berkswell Church and Preaching Cross

Doors open

Berkswell Station and my planned route is fenced off. A half helpful sign states that the red marked paths are inaccessible and the alternative route is in orange. As about enough use as an ashtray on a motorcycle, as the signs have faded and no colour remains at all.

I'm on my own. I successfully cross the new line but my first alternative path out is blocked initially by heavy vegetation and then an unexpected bog. Reverse, reverse, reverse. Pub over the road - lets get a pint and re-plan.

The Railway - Closed, awaiting new owners... how's your day going?

Hurrah! - An alternative just up the road - Bricklayers Arms

Planning completed - reasonable walking through the housing estate extremities of Balsall Common, picking up the originally planned Hob Lane. Soon back into the Countryside.

I always find arriving in a town after a long ramble rather heroic, but when its got a castle, triply so.

Into Kenilworth

Only a couple of years since my last Kenilworth visit and nothing has changed on the beer front. Same Good Beer Guide Ticks of much variety. The Ale Rooms Micropub is on the way to the station and I see no reason to divert anywhere else.

Dark Star Hop Head - the first real ale on the West Midlands Way.

Hottest day of 2024

A three train, one bus journey home but despite HS2, I am filing under a successful day out.

Walk Details

Distance - 11.5 Miles

Geocaches - 1 and 4 Adventure Lab Caches

29/07/24 - The Mitre Oak, Stourport-on-Severn

Dendrology and Cruzcampo

A local walk from a pub detailed in my 1960s pub guide "Historic and New Inns of Interest". Got to get in quick, as Marstons have the Mitre Oak up for sale. Who can guess at its future?

The Mitre Oak today

The chosen walk is my first from the Ramblers web site. Not 100% successful. The sections around Acton Hall badly overgrown. But hey, I survived.

One of the least overgrown sections

Acton gets it's name from the old English of "Farm by the Oak", so there is a theme emerging here.

The pub is named after an oak, reputed to be more than 500 years old and subject to a couple of Internet based stories. It could have the oak tree where St Augustine met the Welsh bishops in 603AD.  Thrashing out the date of Easter, apparently. Its never the same date two years running, so it represents the outcome of my typical meetings. This would put it more like 1500 years old. Perhaps the story of it being recorded by Charles II in his fleeing from the Battle of Worcester is more believable.

Incredibly, having lived in the town for 53 years, I did not know that the tree is still standing.

No Major Oak, but it does have some supports

Things you learn rambling (and drinking).

The pub? Well, lets have a look at the 60's blurb first and make a note of what to spot.

When Harlebury had only 237 telephones

The recommended dining room fireplace

It's maybe not too hard to see its in the last days of Marston ownership. Three handpulls with no clips, showing that there is no cask. Hottest day of the year, so Eurofizz is welcome but £6.15 a pint would not be affordable to any wannabe regulars.

At least I made it whilst I could.

Mental arithmetic used to determine the cost per sip

Walk Details

Distance - 4.5 Miles

Walk Inspiration

25/07/24 - The Two Tiny Pubs of Portland Street, Manchester

Smallest Bar in Europe

Thursday afternoon seems to be a good time to tick a couple from the "other" book.

The Circus Tavern should be open at 2pm, but is all closed up. I am not the only beer tourist hanging around on the street looking disgruntled and checking phones. But I am the one with stamina. My potential new friend disappears away, whilst I pop next door to consider my options.

The Grey Horse is no giant of a pub itself. A Hydes house, with the full range. Keeping the lunchtime theme going, I was forced to stay for two Lowrys.  Absolutely bang on condition.

The Grey Horse

Handsome inside

The space pictured above did not take long to fill up. A group of three crawlers and some loud chat about Manchester Bands gone by. If I told you most of the conversation was about the New Fast Automatic Daffodils, would you believe me? 

They move on, which gives me hope that my original target is open.

And yes, the Circus Tavern has its door ajar. Let the fun commence. 

In we go....

I instantly meet the tiny bar and yes, Tetley is on cask. There are two rooms, with the landlord marshaling who will sit where, whilst a barman deals with the drinks. I know he is the landlord, as the place is covered in photos of the chap with various sportsmen. He loves Man United and boxing.

Fear not, it was topped up.

I was shown to rear room, sandwiched in next to a couple of eastern Europeans and the three experts on the nineties indie scene from earlier.

Table service for the next pint.

Of course, you risk everything if you need to use the surprisingly large facilities.

My table taken by the time I returned to collect my stuff - but it wasn't an issue. I'm on a booked train back to the West Midlands.

I'm not sure I would attempt on a weekend - but somewhere rather special for illicit mid week boozing.

25/07/24 - St Peters and Albert Square and onward to Sam's Chop House

Always learning

I love the AZ Hidden Book Series of City Based Walks. Yet the first walk from the Manchester edition seemed unpromising. One mile in distance.

But fear not, the route pointed out some things hidden in plain sight and provided plenty of interest.

Here's what I learned;

St Peters - The cross marks the site of St Peter's Church, demolished in 1907. Look at the slabs underfoot for a representation.

Centre of today's walk

Look Down

Midland Hotel - Fine looking hotel and the meeting place of Mr Rolls and Royce. Look for the ceramic relief under the arches.

There was even a roller under the arches today

Central Library - the most visited library in the UK. I knew it was free to enter but had never made it to the domed reading room before. Worth a detour.

Look up for the dome

John Dalton Street  - No photos, but the scientist's eyeballs can be found in the Science and Industry Museum. A secret alley, Dalton Passage, leads through buildings to Manchester Roman Catholic Church and a monument to Abraham Lincoln.

The Waterhouse - I'd never considered why the 'Spoons was named as it is. The chief architect of the Town Hall, still under scaffold. 

Makes sense

Free Trade Hall - Ha, never noticed this before! Legendary music venue. Bob Dylan went electric in '66. Sex Pistols in '76. Buzzcocks first gig and hosted everyone from the Stones to Joy Division. The only UK building named after an economic policy. 

Free Trade Hall

Time to put the AZ book down and dip into Matthew Curtis's Manchester Best Beer Pubs and Bars for a lunch recommendation.

Sam's Chop House gets the Mappiman Dollar today. A first visit, having been to Mr Thomas's Chop House several times.

Sams Chop House

Drop down into a different world and a rather uniquely decorated pub, with a real old school feel. 

There's always one punter propping up the bar. A lifesize brass representation of Lowry, the artist and a former regular.

View towards the bar - Lowry under the lamp

There was no need to look at the menu. Both chop houses are famous for one particular dish;

£19.50 worth of Corned Beef Hash

Twitter suggested it would benefit from more (some) gravy.

Walk Details

Distance - 1 mile

Walk Inspiration - AZ Hidden Walks - Manchester, Walk 1

24/07/24 - Greater Manchester Ringway - Stage 10

Reservoir Gods and Windy Hills

As the crow flies, I make no more than 2 miles of progress today. But who wants to be a crow? The GM Ringway turns half an hours walking into a full day out of wilderness.

The day will be remembered for reservoirs - Ogden, Kitcliffe, Piethorne and Norman Hill.

First body of water

First decision of the day is whether to ignore the "Access to fisherman only" sign on the northern bank of the Piethorne Reservoir. It seems well walked by dog walkers and other ramblers and I can see the official web site has a "future diversion" marked that utilises the southern bank.

Either way, you will end up climbing into the wilderness of the wonderfully named Windy Hills. All pleasant today, with me simply wondering where the voices are coming from. Workmen, high in the metalwork of the transmitter. Motorway traffic below, as I look down on England's highest motorway, the M62.

Wheel's of Industry keep on turning

The walk instructions warn vertigo sufferers of the footbridge crossing across the motorway. Use your imagination and you are Indiana Jones crossing one of those dodgy rope bridges, chased by angry natives. Did I mention the lovely mushrooms I found on Windy Hill?

Crossing the valley of the M62

We're on the Pennine Way again and Blackstone egde - a rocky outcrop - provides a fine place for a rest. If only I had found a shop in Newhey to buy sandwiches. I did find a Polski Skelp, but alas, it appears they don't do picnics.

Picnic-less Lunch on Blackstone Edge

I compare walking notes with a gent coming in the opposite direction. I tell him all about the GM Ringway and he makes a note of the what Google Search to use. He tells me he has come from the White House and confirms that this is indeed a pub.

I am cruelly denied this Good Beer Guide Tick, with the route taking me left on the Roman Road. At least it is all downhill to Greater Manchester's largest body of water, Hollingsworth Lake.

There is something very special about coming into civilisation from such a remote landscape. You feel like an explorer. And you know creature comforths - such as Ice Cream vans - are there to help you celebrate.

First stop - as the water again ran out - is the Wine Press. A Gastropub, full of screaming babies would not be my usual port of call but needs must. Seems it had a more interesting past - this from pubsgalore.com;

This pub was called The Fishermans a.k.a. “The Fish” for years. It was always popular with bikers and used to have a rock DJ and live bands. Things have changed dramatically in the last couple of years and it’s now more of a wine bar and eating place, but for some reason it’s still popular with some of the bikers.

The Black Sheep, iced water chaser hit the spot.

Gastropub for Bikers

Farmland and short stretch of canal walking and we are in Littleborough. Loads of independent shops but you try finding a sandwich after 2pm.

The closest Good Beer Guide Tick doesn't open till 3pm, so a quick Birra Moretti at the caskless Falcon. Blue plaque on the wall detailing its history as a coaching house.

Trad pub. No trad beer

This allows the Red Lion time to open and I am third through the door. Two casks on and after a long discussion about the merits of Titanic Plum Porter, its a Coach House Brewing Blonde.

Wilsons - gone since 1987

A short walk back to the railway station, where I am whisked back to Victoria.

Hopefully back for Stage 11 in August!

Walk Information

Start - Newhey

Finish - Littleborough

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9

Distance - 11 Miles

Geocaches - 9

Walk Inspiration

23/07/24 - Greater Manchester RIngway - Stage 9

Pink Tram Line Down, Thank God for Flying Horses 

Bless me father for I have sinned. It's been 9 months since I have been on the Greater Manchester Ringway.

In that time, I have watched with interest as knowledge of the route increases. A number of YouTube Vloggers (my favourite is a railway employee). There have been proper way marking signs laid. Blimey, I even find a fellow Ringway traveller on this stage.

Of course, I have an excuse for getting "lost"

A deceptively gentle start on the Huddersfield Narrow canal, before a stiff climb to pretty Dobcross. Stolen from West Yorkshire in the 1974 Local Government re-organisation. Certainly wouldn't let the Yorkshire Dales down in anyway.

Don't be fooled by this easy walking at the start

Dobcross - Last Pint Saloon at the Swan

Another climb up Long Lane where I catch up and walk alongside a fellow rambler. It takes us a while to get our breath to begin a conversation, but when we do, we determine we are both on the same odyssey. Alas, like a true Brit, we didn't swap any useful details (like our names), yet it was great to have company. My companion, better prepared than me, pointing out the Castle Shaw Roman hill fort below.

I have a staggering amount of photos like this

We split up on the Pennine Way as I geocache, only for re-acquaintance with him lunching at Moor Lane. He provides me one extra piece of critical information. There is a pub coming up!

Technically, I didn't get lost. I had downloaded the GPX files when I started this about 4 years ago. My route took me on the Oldham Way to the wonderfully named New Years Bridge Reservoir. This is the first time I have encountered bad paths on any stage. Fair play to the route planners, who have acknowledged the badly overgrown section and have rerouted through Denshaw.

Home of the much needed boozer.

All water guzzled, but I did meet the beast of the Oldham Way

A rather dry traverse of Crompton Moor - superb views over Manchester - leading to a more sedate country park containing a rather impressive waterfall.

Photos didnt do the waterfall justice, so here's distant Manchester

The section end is Newhey Tram station - the Pink Line normally able to whisk me back to the Metropolis. We have a landslide, so its the longest 2 miles as the crow flies bus trip for a first visit to Rochdale.

Four Good Beer Guide Pubs available if you get the hours/days correct and I pick an absolute gem at the first attempt.

I'd be amazed if the Flying Horse is not Mappiman's 2024 Pub of the Year.

Scaffolding doesn't present it in the best light - but you get the idea

The Flying Horse, known as the "Flyer," is a historic pub and music venue in the heart of Rochdale, Greater Manchester. Dating back to the 17th century, it is one of Rochdale's oldest establishments. Located near Rochdale Town Hall, the pub offers a welcoming atmosphere with traditional decor, including exposed wooden beams.

The Flying Horse is renowned for its extensive selection of real ales, frequently earning accolades from CAMRA (Campaign for Real Ale) and appearing in their guides. The pub boasts an impressive range of beers, with up to 10 cask ales and 8 keg ales available at any given time. This variety includes a mix of local and regional brews that attract ale enthusiasts from near and far. Additionally, the pub is a vibrant music venue, hosting live performances from local bands, tribute acts, and open mic nights. This dedication to supporting local musicians makes the Flyer a key part of Rochdale's cultural scene, blending history, quality ales, and live music.

I couldn't tear myself away - a multiple pint stop - taking in traditional Bass, craft and very exotic German Keg. The Weihenstephaner Hefeweissbier Dunkels are on me!

Enough time to work out the midweek GM Day Ranger ticket presents a couple of issues. OK, I should have known that there is a peak hours hiatus in afternoon rush hour. But I couldn't have guessed that National Rail's own website wants a change at Newton-Le-Willows to get to Patricroft. Suspicions aroused when "no fares available" were presented. Which led me to realise NLW is outside GM, presumably invalidating the whole ticket.

I did the only sensible thing....  called an Uber.

Travel Planning with Mappiman

A perfect day on the trail!  

Walk Information

Start - Greenfield

Finish - Newhey

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8

Distance - 13 Miles

Geocaches - 9

Walk Inspiration

22/07/24 - Thames Path from Kennington, Oxfordshire

Lunchtime at a Hungry Horse

More Thames loveliness from one of my favourite references - Walks Along the Thames Path.

Thames Signage showing progress

We are now south of Oxfordshire, walking from previously unvisited Kennington. I had no idea what to expect from the pub that provided parking, The Tandem. I cannot remember the last time I Hungry Horsed.

Post Walk Refreshments

The footpath is picked up from the car park - across the railway line and onto undeveloped land on both sides of the river. There is one prominent building on Rose Isle and then a pub/houses at Sandford on Thames. It's mainly us, waterfowl and the Thames lapping scarily high at the bank tops.

Rose Isle

Kings Head at Sandford 

A few weirs, one known as the Sandford Lasher. Notable for taking the lives of several Oxford undergraduates over the years. Described in Jerome's 3 men in a boat as a "good place to drown yourself". There is a memorial obelisk in the centre of the weir, where he further comments; 

'the steps of the obelisk are generally used as a diving-board by young men now who wish to see if the place really IS dangerous.'

Humanity in a sentence.

We leave the Thames at Radley Boat House - the local school, whose grounds we walk through after lashings of ginger beer at the community village shop. A mixture of playing fields, woodland and crops.

Thankful for the pub

Back to the pub..... workmen taking advantage of all day breakfasts. Pensioners starting the week with a Monday bang. A little AI research gives the background on its unique name;

The Tandem Pub in Kennington, Oxfordshire, has a rich history that dates back to the 18th century. Originally built as a house, it has a stone inscribed with the date 1770 and the initials T.W., indicating it was constructed by Timothy West. In the 18th century, it was known as "The Fish" and served as a resting point for people, particularly students from Oxford University, who would stop by with their horses.

By the 19th century, it had become popular for university students who enjoyed driving their horses in tandem, which led to its renaming as "The Tandem." This name change reflected its role as a place where students could keep and harness a second horse for their drives, which was restricted within the city limits of Oxford.

The pub underwent significant rebuilding and enlargement in 1939, preserving its historical foundation while updating its structure. Today, it is a family-friendly pub under the Hungry Horse brand, maintaining its place as a local favorite while also catering to modern tastes and conveniences​

Walk Details

Distance - 6.5miles

Geocaches - 4

Walk Inspiration - Walks Along the Thames Path, Walk 8

 

21/07/24 - The Swan, Swinbrook, Oxfordshire

They need to up their biscuit game

Episode 4 of the Loremen podcast and a not particularly dramatic account of the Highwaymen of Swinbrook. A village more closely associated with Nazi sympathisers. Whilst getting our bearings we are instantly accosted by a gentleman asking us if we know where the Mitford graves are. We do, and we will get to them later.

First, the Highwaymen story;

In 1806, the locals of Swinbrook noticed something peculiar about the new tenants of Swinbrook Manor. The once-wealthy Fettiplace family, who had built the grand manor and contributed significantly to the community, had fallen on hard times. With their fortune dwindled and the male line extinct, the elderly Miss Fettiplaces decided to rent out the manor and move to a nearby cottage.

Mr. Freeman, a wealthy London gentleman, soon moved into Swinbrook Manor with a retinue of servants. Despite his unclear source of wealth, he quickly gained popularity by hosting lavish parties for the local gentry. However, around the same time, a series of highway robberies began on the Oxford-Gloucester road. These robberies, while not close to Swinbrook, made nighttime travel perilous.

Suspicion grew as the Freeman household exhibited odd behavior. The servants were rough and uncouth, and the household seemed perpetually tired, as if they had late nights. A stable boy noticed that horses put to bed well-groomed were found exhausted and muddy in the morning, but he was warned to mind his own business and stay out of the manor.

The truth emerged dramatically when a botched robbery led to the capture of one of the robbers, who turned out to be Freeman's butler. It was revealed that Freeman and his household were a gang of highwaymen who had relocated to Swinbrook to avoid capture. Freeman and his butler were tried and hanged for highway robbery, and the stable boy proudly kept their pistols as a memento.  

The walk is a fine ramble across arable land, two crossings of the river Windrush and taking in the villages of Asthall and Widford.

Evidence of the highwaymen is rare. The manor house was next to Swinbrook church but was pulled down after Freeman was executed. There is plenty of evidence of the Fettiplaces.

Swinbrook Church

Fettiplace Memorial

More Fettiplaces

More Fettiplaces

The Church Micro Geocache takes me to the more famous to Daily Mail Readers, Mitford sisters.

Front 3 - Nancy, Unity, Diana

Nancy Mitford (1904-1973)

Nancy was a novelist and biographer known for her witty novels about upper-class life, such as "The Pursuit of Love" and "Love in a Cold Climate." She also wrote acclaimed biographies, including one on Louis XIV. Nancy spent much of her later life in France and was a beloved literary figure.

Unity Mitford (1914-1948)

Unity was a fervent supporter of Adolf Hitler and the Nazi regime, causing a scandal in Britain. She moved to Germany in the 1930s and developed a close relationship with Hitler. After Britain declared war on Germany, she attempted suicide, resulting in brain damage. She returned to England and lived quietly until her death in 1948.

Diana Mitford (1910-2003)

Diana was known for her beauty and controversial political beliefs. She left her first husband for British fascist leader Sir Oswald Mosley. Diana and Mosley married in Germany in 1936, with Hitler as a guest at their wedding. During World War II, both were interned by the British government due to their fascist sympathies. After the war, she lived a quieter life, writing her autobiography "A Life of Contrasts."

A lot of history for a blog. Onto the pub.

The Swan is just around the corner, a very typical C17th award winning gastropub.

Mrs M at the Swan 

Dining Pub of the Covid Years

Mrs M requests a flat white and I check out the beer options. Clarkson's Hawstone Lager and Cider found on draught in the wild for the first time. But I was never going to turn down a North Cotswold Brewery Best Bitter - even at the expense of my old favourite, TT Landlord.

Perfect session bitter

Mrs M not impressed with the lack of Biscoff accompanying the hot drink. Sulkily she laments "forget about being dining pub of the year, they need to up their biscuit game"

Toilet art work providing her TripAdvisor review title.

Walk Details

Distance - 4.75 Miles

Geocaches - 1

Walk Inspiration - Loremen Podcast Episode 4 and Discover the Cotswolds, Walk 11

Previous Loremen Walks - Churchill, Burford, Long Compton