Tuesday, 12 May 2026

12/05/26 - A Wiltshire Way Day 4 - Amesbury to Salisbury

Ancient Monuments, Gratis

The first half of A Wiltshire Way comes to an end in Salisbury. A city that makes the remote plodding and below average pub scene worth the effort.

Today, it's an easy walk and with the twin highlights of Stonehenge and Old Sarum - real highlights. Both are paid for tourist attractions but both can be experienced gratis.

Stonehenge especially so - approach from the Avenue and you find yourself on the other side of a low fence, where the patrons have paid £30. I'm up there with Martin Lewis for money saving techniques.

Stonehenge
Come over here and save yourself £120

Geocaching trail and fine walking through Wilsford Cum Lake (make your own jokes) and refreshment found in the unlikely place of Great Bustard. From a distance, I thought it meant Boris Johnson. A posh eponymous gastro-pub, where people feel it acceptable to hold job interviews in public. I groaned at some of the answers and saw through her bull at some of her answers. The interviewer was a goon too.... often answering his own questions. By the time I had finished my Hop Back Summer Lightning, he had given himself the job.

The Great Bustard
A literal barn of a pub - the sign is more interesting

Every step getting me closer and closer to my goal - through fields of blue wildflowers until eventually, Old Sarum comes into view. An impressive hill fort, abandoned town with a castle and cathedral. The forerunner to Salisbury.
Approaching Old Sarum
The track to Old Sarum
Old Sarum
The ramparts - Google aerial views for the dramatic views of the Cathedral footings

And there lies Salisbury - endless history, a delightful Cathedral court and 6 Good Beer Guide ticks to attack.

It's taken me four days to get here. I fully intend to kick the arse out of it.

Salisbury - the Cathedral Spire
A spire to inspire Russian tourists with exact measurements


Walk Details

Distance - 13.5 miles

Geocaches - 56


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