Wiltshire's Beer City
There's no need to do any planning for Salisbury. Nearly every pub visited tonight had one of these leaflets;
I'm impressed with the City from the get-go. Varying my diet after a four-day trek across the county, I decide Thai food should be on the menu. Pub #1 is the Rai D'or. Good Beer Guide tick. CAMRA Historic Pub Interior. Thai restaurant.
I admire what they have done here. As a pub, it retains many features - ancient fireplace, low ceilings, traditional tables. The restaurant side of the business runs with maximum efficiency and minimal fuss. Two cask ales on, reflecting low turnover but maintaining quality—and the Frome Brewery Usual Best Bitter is in perfect nick.
I'm off to a flyer as I navigate the flyover - trying to cross the A36(T) which somehow got through town planning. The Winchester Gate is my quarry - The home of live music in Salisbury.
No live music tonight (though a couple of chaps with instrument cases come in who are either musicians or 1930s Chicago mobsters), but the piped music is at a volume that makes you think you’re at Knebworth. An interesting Fuzztone by Dark Revolution—a hazy NEIPA.
In the near vicinity is The Wyndham Arms. I was told not to miss this Hop Back Brewery house by the Marlborough trio - saying it was every bit as good as Swindon's Glue Pot. A man's pub, for men, who either like eating crisps, reading newspapers or looking at their phones.
My palate is crying out for something a bit different to cask. The Coach and Horses more than scratches that itch. A huge menu showcasing some wonderful keg options, alongside the four cask ales. Paulaner Salvator sampled on draught for this first time ever. Excellent choice, friendly and knowledgeable staff but it really needed some more customers to generate an atmosphere.
On the subject of variety - a shout-out to Sips micro pub. In the leaflet but not in the Good Beer Guide. There can't be many places where you can drink draught Delirium Barrel Aged Blonde. Probably for good reasons, as it would hasten by approach to full-time tramp.
My final GBG tick is probably the town's most famous, The Haunch of Venison. Three star CAMRA Heritage pub and incredibly atmospheric.
A little tricky identifying the beers that were on, as they are scatter around on the opposite bar to the where the customer stands. They were all Hop Back - but this is not a tied house. I did ask the reason, but the explanation made little sense.
The Delirium and Salvator were kicking in.
There's 32 pubs in that leaflet. Based on tonight's exploration, it's well worth a return visit.
For once, Wiltshire has surprised me - in the positive sense.








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