20/08/26 - Greater Manchester Ringway - Stage 17

Peat Bogs in the Rain

I left the Greater Manchester Ringway in the Holiday Inn Express. It's been a long time since I've stayed in a corporate hotel. Vaguely interesting to have a late night pint in a soulless lounge, eavesdropping on other tables of people forced into spending time with each other. There's always one talking loudly, and that one is talking about work. You can watch the eyes of their colleagues glaze over in real time.

If the question is "Where to go in a drought for a chance of rainfall?" the answer has to be Manchester.

I'm almost too scared to throw those curtains wide, with persistent thunder heard on the other side.

But there is hope

Incredibly, after an attempt to break the record of most sausages eaten at a free buffet breakfast, the rain stops. And it very nearly stays stopped.

This meteorological prelude is necessary. This stage of the walk has absolutely nothing to talk about.

The Leeds Liverpool Canal is left behind, replaced by flat agricultural land on the Glazebrook Trail Long Distance Path. 

To add some variety, the walk designers ask us to leave the trail for a completely unnecessary circuit of what is unidentified on my OS Map. It transpires that  the series of arrow-straight canals are the Wigan and Salford Mosslands. Rewilding of peat bogs, that may provide interest to Twitchers and whatever the collective noun of lizard watchers is.

Could have stayed to the West on the Glazebrook trail...

but I'd have missed three miles of this

Just in case I was to get excited as to what Irlam might offer a lonely traveller, the storms come back.

Soaked to my pants, I decide to instantly get the train home, via Warrington, looking for somewhere to change.

Three stages to go - I'm no quitter.

Walk Information

Start - Leigh

Finish - Irlam

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10, Stage 11, Stage 12, Stage 13, Stage 14, Stage 15, Stage 16

Distance -  10.5 Miles

Geocaches - 3

Walk Inspiration

19/06/26 - Greater Manchester Ringway - Stage 16

The Western Wind-down 

A whole calendar year since I was on the Greater Manchester Ringway. We can blame relatives - my daughter and son-in-law (pending) have moved house. It's not that they haven't informed me of their new address. They still haven't sorted out all the decorating and can't put up guests. If I had more talent, I would take a rest from exploring and pick up some paint brushes. Weaponised incompetence is my middle name.

So, the bullet is bitten and a Holiday Inn Express is booked at the halfway point, to enable me to knock off two stages.

This is the final five sections. The website says that we are now on the Western Wind-down, with flat easy walking along canals and agricultural land. 

Back to Wigan, the pier is under scaffold, so few photos on the Leeds to Liverpool Canal, dissecting great bodies of water known locally as "flashes".

Today's walking - The Leeds Liverpool Canal

Scotsman's Flash

Sadly, from a blogging perspective, that's it. The choice about whether to stop for refreshment is made instantly. The only pub passed - The Dover Lock Inn - not only closed, but firebombed.

It's just the canal until the next flash, Pennington and a comfy bed for the night.

Leigh does have pubs. Having visited four of them, I am trying to determine if they are worthy of blogging. Nothing of real architectural or beer interest but it's sometimes the people that make pubs.

And the people of Leigh are quite odd.

Walk Information

Start - Wigan

Finish - Leigh

Previous Stages - Stage 1, Stage 2, Stage 3, Stage 4, Stage 5, Stage 6, Stage 7, Stage 8, Stage 9, Stage 10, Stage 11, Stage 12, Stage 13, Stage 14, Stage 15

Distance -  10 Miles

Geocaches - 11

Walk Inspiration 

17/08/26 - Sedgley Ale Trail

Monday Lunchtime Ticking

Never the best day for visiting pubs, but I don't do too badly in Sedgley. I was here on the trail of a Victorian Widow (read on, if interested) but in the back of my mind, I knew there was another Sedgley item on my Google Calendar To Do List.

Nine available but as stated, it's Monday. Wallet and liver will be safe.

2. The Beacon Hotel

The first I reach, on my approach from a hidden medieval lane across Turl's Hill. It should be number 1 on your list too. In other pubs, I am taken as a pub tourist and the bar staff there ask "Have you been to the Beacon Hotel?". 

Even when their own pub is empty.

The Beacon Hotel

Handsome from all angles

It's the brew pub for Sarah Hughes, where their Ruby Mild is the stuff of legend. Facebook showed a delighted punter finding it in Portsmouth on the weekend. You might think a 6% easy drinker is the strongest drink available. The chalk written board has a brew called Hedgerow - coming in at a whopping 7.3%.

The bar is a near unique experience. There is a glass partition that only opens to belly button height. You can either remain anonymous, or crouch down - where the staff crouch down back to meet your gaze. It must be a health and safety concern for cricked necks for staff and punters alike.

Once you've chosen your poison, you have a considerably bigger decision to make. Where to sit. There appears to be room after room internally and then a pleasant rear patio and play area. Or you can just do what this tourist did - wander around until you find the most life.

Back to the wall pensioners

I love the old school opening hours..... maybe it was so busy, as people know it closes at 2:30 for an afternoon hiatus.

3. The White Lion - Closed on a Monday lunchtime.

4. The Bulls Head

A pleasant enough Holdens Pub, suffering with a lack of punters. I awoke the barmaid from her doom-scrolling and enjoyed another tick on the Holdens Chain, with a Black Country Special.

My type of pub

Steven Brown Highland Cow and an indication of brewery distance

1. Mount Pleasant and 9. The Crown - The Mount Pleasant is a "Want to Go" but is not open on many lunchtimes, so saved for another day. The Crown, a desi pub, will be ticked on that day.

7. Sandy's - The only one on the PDF that is closed down. It was a cafe with an alcohol licence.

8. Seven Stars - Too far out of my way.

5. The Clifton 

'Spoons cannot be kept out of the news. This week, the mainstream media has Timbo's announcement that mobile phones on loudspeaker are to be banned. The sooner we give this man other parts of society to manage, the better. And in the latest Critic Magazine - a two page article in praise of the most democratic of pub chains.

Timely article in this month's The Critic.

Mirroring yesterday's joy. pic.twitter.com/NKDJVBPUPe

— Mappiman (@Mappiman1) August 18, 2026

The crux of the article - how he saves important high street buildings, promotes cask ales and offers value for money for all perfectly experienced during my visit of this old picture house which would be otherwise left to rot.

A grand 'spoons

6. The Swan Inn

A little bit of an ugly duckling - I couldn't find a decent angle to photograph it in a reasonable light. It certainly exceeded expectations. Two old boys watching the golf and one old girl with an older dog did not seem to warrant the four cask ales available.

Yet, my Town Crier was in perfect condition.

You cannot always succumb to your own prejudices.

And on blogging, I determine it's in the 2026 Good Beer Guide.  My 1191 tick.

Reassuring to see that I concur with the bible, even when unaware.

17/08/26 - On the Trail of...... Eliza Tinsley

West Midlands' Widow

The latest West Midlands History Podcast concentrates on Victorian widows. The central argument is that widowhood was not simply a story of female tragedy and poverty. Although many widows faced extreme hardship, the death of a husband could also fundamentally change a woman's position. In a society where married women were often financially and legally subordinate to their husbands, becoming a widow could give a woman control of property, money, household affairs and, sometimes, a degree of political independence.

They discuss the life of a West Midlands Widow - Eliza Tinsley.

Eliza Butler married Thomas Tinsley in 1839 and they had six children. Their home, The Limes in Sedgley, was built for them shortly before Thomas died in 1851, along with their eldest daughter Elizabeth. Eliza was then widowed and took over the family nail and chain-making business. She expanded it into a major Staffordshire manufacturer, employing around 4,000 people by 1871 and producing nails, chains, rivets and anchors for markets in Britain and overseas. She lived at The Limes until her death in 1882.

Sedgley - the obvious target for a walk and to find what remains on the ground. Getting there might be easier when the tram extension is created. For me it's bus, rail replacement bus, train, train and a 2 mile walk from Coseley station. The walk is through houses, although I do find a medieval lane over Turl's Hill. 

The Limes is the obvious target. The grounds have been donated as a public space. There is a filthy notice board telling the history of the building. Information on that board can be used to plot the co-ordinates of the only Geocache on route.

Italianate Tower no longer present 

Now executive flats

Who need to show as much civic pride as the Victorians

There are other potential locations. The Leopard, a pub owned by the family, is just down the road. Alas, demolished and replaced by Lego houses. Their main factory was at Cradley Heath. But the Victorians were great at celebrating civic success.

Now located in St Andrews Church

And although not her final resting place, a large memorial cross at All Saints Church.

Easy Find

Walk Details

Distance - 4 miles

Geocaches - 1

Walk Inspiration - History West Midlands Podcast

12/08/26 - Rail Trail - The Hawthorns to The Jewellery Quarter

The Winston Green Island

A simple walk from my "Home of Football" and into the City outskirts at the Jewellery Quarter.

The Birmingham Canal providing a green-ish corridor through an urban landscape. Graffiti, some of it excellent, rubbish and the most unusual hobo. Living in a tent at a bridge, with a pontoon harbour made of milk bottles to protect his canoe. He is friends to the geese.

Today's Walking

Ted Lasso Vibes with the Graffiti Vibes

There is a detour from the straight line of the Birmingham Canal at Asylum Bridge. The Soho Loop is the original stretch of canal from 1769. This was straightened in 1829, effectively making the Winson Green Island. And what did the Victorians put on this island? You will have guessed the prison - a mock castle building - but there was also the lunatic asylum and workhouse.

I was there

Asylum granted

Icknield Street marks the entry into the Jewellery Quarter - as well as a bit of Tom*, you will find some of the city's finest restaurants and bars/pubs. And the Red Lion reopened in the summer of 2026.

Back from the dead

Joules have done a fine job but at a cost. It's immaculate inside and out - painted a striking but not unattractive brown externally and inside, a finely polished parquet flooring. Every wall surface covered in pubby memorabilia - a lot advertising Green Monkey Helles Lager. In the heatwave, I was susceptible.

Hit the spot

Outdoor terracing - both sheltered and elevated, it's a fine addition to the area. The Rose Villa Tavern is going to have to up its game (poor beer last two visits).

The cost? The Red Lion was possibly the only place in the city you could get Bathams. The landlord told me they still have people phoning up and asking if it is still on.

Listen to your customers, publicans.

* Tom Foolery - Jewellery..... Old Brummie Rhyming Slang

Walk Details

Distance - 3.25 miles

Geocaches - 2

Previous Stages on the Wyre Valley Line - Worcester to Droitwich, Droitwich to Hartlebury, Hartlebury to Kidderminster, Kidderminster to Hagley, Hagley to Stourbridge, Stourbridge to Cradley Heath, Cradley Heath to Old Hill, Old Hill to Langley Green, Langley Green to Smethwick Galton Bridge, Smethwick Galton Bridge to The Hawthorns

11/08/26 - The Thatched Tavern, Honeybourne

Comparing Ancient Worcestershire Pubs

It's a matter of days before the new edition of the Good Beer Guide is replaced. Where does time go?

My usual commitment is to ensure that my home county, Worcestershire remains "greened". There are two entries to tick.

Today, it is Honeybourne. Technically two villages - Church Honeybourne and Cow Honeybourne. Until 1958, one was in Worcestershire and one was in Gloucestershire. Its fortunes have improved with the coming of the railways - first being on the Cheltenham Line and more recently on the London-Worcester line.

The walking was always going to be agricultural. At times the paths were lost to 6ft corn crops. At others, I was walking - quite legally on the right of way - through strawberry poly-tunnels.

Lost again

Lunchtime snacks available. Bring your own sugar.

The walk was largely perfunctory - designed to work up a thirst. 

The Thatched Tavern, Honeybourne is the new 2026 tick. And I am having no problems in finding it.

One day, all pubs will be so well signposted

However, the walk takes me through Bretforton. Lovers of pubs know what this means. It would be rude not to say hello to an old friend. The Fleece Inn is described in one of my pub books as "one of the best half dozen historic pubs in England".

Both pubs appear in my 1960s guide "Historic and New Inns of Interest" and are of a similar age. A chance for me to compare and contrast.

The Fleece Inn, Bretforton

The memories of my last walk here - snow on the ground. What we would give for such days again!

The Fleece in a heatwave

The building is more than 500 years old and half timber-framed. A former longhouse farmstead - home to animals and humans - and in the same family until donated to the National Trust in 1978. 15 generations of the Byrds, the former owners, are found in the adjacent churchyard.

Rambling inside - there are low doorways, a tiny narrow bar and a rear dining room. Here you can see the famous "witch marks" at the fireplace, should you be lucky enough to get a seat.

I was lucky on snow day, 2024

I do manage to get a table inside - in front of the 300-year old pewter dining set display. Uley Brewery Pig's Ear is on, as always.

In front of the family heirlooms

The Thatched Tavern, Honeybourne

I'm not sure how much of the C13th infrastructure remains. Again, it's half timbered and unlike the 1960s guide book, the A-framing can be seen from the other end, not where a more modern extension has been added.

That's the architectural angle! Two tree trunks pegged together for support

Unlike the Fleece, once inside, you could be anywhere. A modern bar... modern furniture... I wandered around, looking to see anything to photograph. To the delight of pensioner diners and knock-off early workers, there was nothing.

The cask range a little pedestrian. An HPA and another pale ale with a not-to-be-trusted handwritten pump clip.

It does have things going for it - a wonderful beer garden, regular and early opening hours (11am daily) and in these troubled days of cost of living crisis - reasonably priced and deliciously chilled keg lagers.

Walk Details

Distance - 8.5 miles 

Geocaches - 5

Walk Inspiration - Jarrold The Malverns to the Warwickshire, Walk 19

08/08/26 - King Alfred's Tower and the Stourhead Estate

Great Estate

Our host has left a series of George (the dog we are sitting) favourite walks. King Alfred's Tower recommended for the shade provided by Penselwood, an ancient forest.

Early and out for free National Trust Parking. How lovely! Usually the most expensive in the land.

It's forest rides, ancient earthworks and hillforts until we reach Stourhead - a country estate, for which we were wholly unprepared. The footpaths go around lakes, past follys and right to the front door of the country estate. A national trust kiosk baking fresh pasties and you know you have lucked out.

Stourhead is a celebrated 18th-century landscape estate in Wiltshire, created by the Hoare family around a picturesque lake, with temples, grottos and woodland walks designed to evoke an idealised classical landscape. One of its most striking features is King Alfred’s Tower, a 160-foot (49m) folly built in 1772 by Henry Hoare II to commemorate Alfred the Great’s victory over the Vikings in 878.

Here are some photos;

Forest Rides

The Bristol Cross - Originally in Bristol and relocated in 1762

Entering the Stourton Estate

Where we can ring the front door bell.

George and the Obelisk

The source of the Stour - Six Wells Valley and St Peter's Pump

King Alfred's Tower

Walk Details

Distance - 5.5 miles

Geocaches - 6

Walk Inspiration - Komoot

07/08/26 - Digby's Tap, Sherborne

The Host Knows

Our latest dog-sit brings us to Cucklington. It's quite possible over the three-day weekend that we may be able to do a walk in three different counties.

We start in Dorset. During the introductions and our host listens to my planned walks at Castle Cary and Bruton. I can tell he is unimpressed and ask him where we should go. Shaftesbury is mentioned, but we have recreated bread advents. Then he says "Sherborne". We've never been. Plans are changed.

We can tell on the drive in to the Long Stay Car Park that this is our sort of place. History seems to be dripping off the streets. As you could expect from a town with two castles, the architecture is both ancient and impressive. An Adventure Lab Cache shows us some of the history;

Sherborne is a town with a remarkably long history, its origins stretching back to Roman times and the foundation of a Saxon cathedral in AD 705, which later became Sherborne Abbey. Its two castles tell a later story: the medieval Old Castle was built in the 12th century, while Sir Walter Raleigh acquired it in 1592 before abandoning it for the grander New Castle, completed in 1594. Centuries later, another famous name arrived in the form of Alan Turing, who attended Sherborne School from 1926 to 1931, long before his pioneering work in computing and codebreaking made him one of the 20th century's most important scientists.

Our walk is hastily compiled from Komoot and as usual, is wonderful. Green lanes out into the countryside to Oborne. The brown signs point us to an historic church just off the footpath. St Cuthberts arguably the smallest church in the land. But like "Oldest Pub", the rules are contested. In this instance, the remains can be classed as chancel to previously larger building.

Green Lanes

Single Roomer

Into Sherborne Park - a deer park, where all the deer have been taken in for the summer. This leads back to town, via the new castle. Sights are seen. Photos are taken.

Sherborne Country Park

Sherborne (new) Castle

Sherborne Abbey

There is one Good Beer Guide recommendation in town. Digby's Tap. I have to say, I was expecting a micropub, or a taproom on the side of a brewery. I couldn't be more wrong. The oldest parts of the building date from the C16th. Digby's Hotel was next door and this private residence was purchased in 1870. It outlives the hotel.

Thirsty Post Walkers

Three small rooms inside, under a low ceiling. It appears to be just as renowned for its food as its beer - which leads to a rather unpleasant pubby experience. An 11am opener, we were there before midday. Every single table has a reserved sign on it - ranging in times from midday to 13:30. This means the drinker has the choice of squatting or hogging the bar. Some do both. Some move tables as one becomes available with a later booking time. Increasing numbers of punters come in, going through the same rigmarole.

It means the small interior is in a state of perpetual motion. Our dog gets tripped over.

We can't wait to get out of there, to be honest.

My campaign for comfy seats in pubs gets a subchapter. 

Ban table reservations.

Walk Details

Distance - 7 miles

Walk Inspiration - Komoot

Geocaches - 5

05/08/26 - Geocaching in Inkberrow

Drinking with the Archers..... How Much!

Inkberrow, Worcestershire, is connected to the county town by an infrequent bus service. Running only sporadically, it means that once I'm there, I'm stuck for a while. Fortunately, there are two pubs in which to while away the time. The bull seems to have been an animal of particular importance to past landlords, featuring in the names of both of them.

The village is one of the oldest in Worcestershire - with plenty of history. The name derives from "Inta's Burial Mounds", suggesting ancient civilisations were there. There was a castle. There is still a moat. Charles I apparently left his battle plans for Naseby at the vicarage. Which provides an indication on how that worked out for him.

In more modern times, the Old Bull is the inspiration for the pub in Radio 4's The Archers. We'll come to that once I have calmed down. There is a plot spoiler in the blog title.

Today's walking is haphazard, as I am on a Geocache Trail - which takes in around 30, including some pirate themed Adventure Lab Caches. Don't ask. It's better that way.

Some nice views over the Worcestershire low-lands to the Malvern Hills, showing how it runs as a ridge up to Abberley.

From the Millennium Way

Caching completed at 11:50am. The next (but one) bus home at 14:50. Can I stretch three hours over two pubs? I do have the Metro newspaper and my cryptic crossword solving skills are improving.

The Old Bull

This is an entry in my 1960s Pub Guide - Historic and New Inns of Interest.

Undeniably Handsome

It's what you would want from a country pub. Ancient flagged floors, low ceilings, oak beams, signs saying "bullshit corner", 1970s pop playing out over external speakers. Catering for the tourists, there are some Ambridge Photos and an eye watering price list.

When Butty Bach is £5.70, the game has gone. 

I stayed for two, just to make sure I hadn't bene overcharged.

Still, there is something quaint about riders parking their horses (do you park a horse?), under the village green tree and nipping in for a pint in their jodhpurs. Cost consciously frugal foal fans can go to Costcutter.   

Horses in the Shade

The Bulls Head

Told you that Bulls are important to Inkberrow. I suppose with such a famous pub over the road, they are on a hiding to nothing here. Indeed, there were just a couple of old boys and a TV tuned to one of the last music channels, with the volume far too loud.

It's a Wye Valley House - and really, I should have had another Butty for cost comparison. Instead, I gave £6.50 to Jeremy Clarkson for his Hawkstone Lager.

Bull

Walk Details

Distance - 4.5 miles

Geocaches - c30