At Last, the Pilchard Press is Ticked (Properly)
We're back into St Ives on the sort of train journey that would force Michael Portillo to don his most garish of trousers. It's not often travellers are demanding to sit on one particular side of the train, as they aim to maximise the views over Carbis Bay and Portminster Beach.
St Ives is the end of the line and even in bleak midwinter, it's hard to navigate the thronged streets. My favourite argument between a man and his wife, which resulted in the most disgruntled shouting "I'm not having that, I'm going to the f*cking pub". And in she went.
Plenty of choice in St Ives. Not sure any of them are "destination", mind. An Adventure Lab Cache takes us to five different pubs and I can add the Kettle N Wink and Lifeboat to the Union, Castle and Sloop Inn previously visited. Today's observations - Kettle N Wink - no one wants or needs heavy metal music at that volume. Lifeboat..... too many tourists. And only a man from Worcestershire can say that. But Coops the Labradoodle did enjoy the "dog station", with as many free biscuits as he could snaffle.
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| Back in Black the most tuneful of today's tunes at the Kettle |
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| Family and dog friendly at the Lifeboat |
The walk is a simple circuit of the western headland. The holidaying masses are left behind as we climb ever upward on lanes to field tracks over Burthallen Cliffs. The footpaths disappear and have little bearing on the OS Map but eventually we part walk, part crawl through thistles and hedges to get onto the South West Coast Path proper.
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| Should have just aimed for the sea - instead, we went off piste |
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| All smiles, when we can see St Ives on the SWCP |
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| Coops the Labradoodles favourite part - Portmeor Beach |
We'd deliberately timed our return for 4pm, to coincide with the opening hours (on a day they are open) of the Pilchard Press. This is my third attempt at a visit. With hindsight, I can see why it closed during covid. I am unsure whether anyone would have fancied sitting in a low ceilinged windowless room. We were also here a couple of days ago, on one of their non-opening days.
Its located down an unappealing alley, where you can determine how much vegetable oil a Thai restaurant consumes. There on the stroke of 4pm, we're not the first to enter. In fact, its not unlike a game of musical chairs - as the menfolk head to the bar and the women and children jostle for the best seating.
All beers are LocALE and on sillage. The one you are likely to have heard of is Dartmoor Legend, but even a prolific pub enthusiast like myself is in the realms of Viz's RAT Beer names.... Treens Krowser, a best bitter, barmaids name was Angela.
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| A Proper Pilchard Tick |
If we were brave enough to visit the Three Ferrets, we could declare St Ives done. The best by a county mile is the Sloop. Especially if you can get inside and like London Prices.
With trains every half an hour, all that remains is to get the timings right on the quayside return.
Easy to get a hosing at high tide.
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| Go For It! |
Walk Details
Distance - 4 Miles
Walk Inspiration - 40 Walks in Cornwall
Geocaches - 3
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