Wednesday, 20 August 2025

20/08/25 - Claverdon, Wolverton and Norton Lindsey

Warwickshire's First Community Pub and Churches Aplenty

This is what I love. Finding ancient guidebooks and seeing what has changed and what still exists.

My latest eBay find - a 1951 book called "Fifty Weekend Walks round Birmingham". Walks will be tackled sequentially. Walk 1 is from Hatton. I can ignore the bus route instructions, as I don't have 1s 7d for the bus fare. I can adapt the hand-drawn map for my own needs.

Book Scan
North goes at the top - with little indication of distance

This is a good advert for completing research. The walk itself - through Warwickshire countryside and along rather too many roads (traffic not an issue in 1951) - would have been as dull as ditch water. By carefully reading the walk text and a little bit of googling, I was able to have something to look for at every turn. And there was even time for a spontaneous find.

Claverdon is the first sleepy village. Pinley Abbey was more interesting on the map than on the ground - as there was little to see of a nunnery founded in the reign of Henry I. In 2025, I was forced to concentrate on poorly maintained paths. On the village approach, there is an architectural oddity that looks out of place.

The Stone Building looks like a fortified tower. It was part of a grander building built by Sir Thomas Spencer, whose tomb can be investigated in the church. Once you pass the smithy, with its unusual horse-shoe front door.

Stone Building Claverdon
Pubs, not the only thing to be converted to flats
Smithy, Claverdon
The horseshoe fronted old Smithy
Sir Thomas Spencer Tomb, 1596
The Tomb of Sir Thomas Spencer - 1586

The guide book points out a grave with a wonderfully bleak inscription. Memorialising John Matthews, who lived during the reign of Henry VIII, and gave the land for the church to be built on. It's part of a longer sonnet that starts;

"Altho’ John Matthews under this stone lies rotten,
His deeds and name by us shall never be forgotten"

My book claims the text is still decipherable. The only other reference I can find on the Internet is from a C19th book - Shakespeare's Land - which states the tomb is near the South Porch. A good mooch around, but no success in locating it. The clue "Tomb" - and the fact he is the church benefactor - led me to believe it would have been one of the grander memorials. Maybe the text has deteriorated in the last 50 years.

Claverdon Church
South Porch, lots of text, sadly indecipherable

Wolverton is a very sleepy hamlet. A manor house and a very simple church, notable for its Norman origins and my observation, the walls are bowing outwards. No gaudy iconography here.

Wolverton Church
Wolverton Church

I'm back on the wider blog topic at Norton Lindsey. A village that has a pub. First the church, to see a Saxon font that is much older than the mainly Victorian building that houses it. Some fine stained glass windows.

Norton Lindsey Church
The clock ticks very loudly, somewhat disrupting the internal ambience
Norton Lindsey Saxon Font
Saxon Font - shaft wider than the bowl it supports
Norton Lindsey Church
God is Love, Love One Another

I knew that the New Inn was Warwickshire's first community owned pub, sharing space with a shop and a cafe. I did not realise it is in the 2025 Good Beer Guide. Unexpected ticks are always the best. Especially when they are open at 2:30pm on a Wednesday afternoon.

As expected from a pub owned by 200 members of the community, the patrons were all locals. Three ladies laughing so hard they had to announce that they hadn't even had a drink. A couple of solo fellas on lout. A rather important looking fella - who I am convinced is the community ring leader - sat at the bar end on a gin and tonic. Further evidence that he is in charge from the Wi-Fi password - "haveagin", all lower case. He might have been responsible for commissioning the pub poem;

New Inn, Norton Lindsey Poem
A ballard for boarded-up boozers

This lack of cask activity left me slightly concerned that the TV Screen showing the available ales, with a detailed description of each, listed six different choices. I wondered who was the last person to have ordered an Old Hooky.

I had nothing to fear. It was in fine condition.

New Inn, Norton Lindsey
Old Hooky

Having had my fun, I ensure I return home a hero. Carrot cake from the adjacent shop for Mrs M and the boy.

Walk Details

Distance - 10 miles

Geocaches - 10

Walk Inspiration - Fifty Weekend Walks round Birmingham, Walk 1

Monday, 18 August 2025

18/08/25 - London's Central Parks

Geocaching, Pubs, Parklife

A day in Central London. There's been a series of Geocaches placed for an event that are about to be archived. Having completed half already, it would be shame to leave gaps on the map. Psycho-geographic street meanders looking for magnetic tubs on the back of electrical boxes is not for everyone, but it kept me entertained.

I suppose you could end up anywhere in London and be close to a classic pub. I finish at Borough Tube for a return visit to the Royal Oak in Tabard Street.


Royal Oak, Tabard Street
Would certainly be my local, if I lived in the Borough

A timeless Harvey's House - central bar, two rooms, hard seating. One clever home worker, having set up his workstation in the corner. If I had heard a Microsoft Teams chime, The Fear would have returned.

The beer is always in top condition in here and as much as I would have loved a Sussex Best, I decided to go for a lesser spotted Old Ale. And its not even autumn.

Royal Oak, Tabard Street
Sure the mild was worth experimenting with as well. 

Tear myself away for an official walk. I am very close to finishing a guide book - Andrew Duncan's Favourite London Walks. I date every walk completed and this has provided inspiration since 2004. It's absolutely terrifying where time disappears to.

A 3.5 mile walk across Hyde Park, Green Park and St James Park. If I had used available subways, it is possible that the entire walk could have been completed without crossing a road.

The book is packed with facts. I'll give you one. James I opened St James Park to the population and used to keep a zoo. In it was an elephant that used to drink a gallon of wine a day. 

A lovely meander, with sights at every corner. One you could do time and time again and find something new.

Here's a short collection of today's (obvious) discoveries.

Kensington Palace
Kensington Palace, gone wild
The Serpentine
The Serpentine - the damming of the River Westbourne
Buckingham Palace
Buckingham Palace, obviously
St James Park - Looking down to the London Eye
The view from St James Blue Bridge
Walk over at Westminster
Big Ben without scaffolding

Walk Details

Distance - 3.5 Miles on the Parks Walk, 10 overall

Geocaches - More than 50, lost count.

Walk Inspiration - Andrew Duncan's Favourite London Walks


Sunday, 17 August 2025

17/08/25 - Flounders Folly, from the Shropshire Hills Discovery Centre

Ship Ahoy!

Mrs M presents me with a last minute challenge. She wants a Sunday walk that involves a view and a good coffee shop.

Fortunately, I have just the ticket waiting from last month's Country Walking Magazine.

Craven Arms - one of the stranger places I frequent. Possibly the only town in the country named after the pub. The pub is now closed and looks unlikely to come back.

This leaves the Discovery Centre - complete with cafe - which we use as our base. 

Shropshire Hills Discovery Centre
Shropshire Disco

This is a "one target" walk - aiming for Flounders Folly, atop Callow Hill. To reach this, we have the Marches Way, running along the River Onny/Quinny Brook. 

The Marches Way appears on my elderly OS Map, but has been removed from the latest on-line Maps. It was a Long Distance Path running from Chester to Cardiff and immortalised in a Sigma book by Les Lumsden. 

Striding out on the Marches Way
I told the boy never ramble in short trousers

The folly comes into view. Of course, I get grief from the walking party. The usual complaints, the usual, "well, we can see it from here, there is no need to climb that massive hill".

If they want coffee and cake, they are going to have to follow me. To the bitter end.

First Glimpse of the Folly
There's the Folly

Zig-zag forest rides makes it a not too bad ascent.

The folly? Built by local landowner Benjamin Flounders, supposedly so he could see his merchant ships docking at both Bristol and Liverpool. Got to love a rumour. If there is a union jack flag flying, it means it is the one day a month when it is open for visitors to climb the internal staircase. Or Reform have taken over Craven Arms town council and are deploying dog whistle politics.

Shropshire Views
You wanted Shropshire Views, didn't you?
Flounders Folly
Closed today

Unfortunately, the descent is a bit of a disaster. We continue along the ridge and despite signs written on bucket lids, the footpaths are a disaster of overgrown ferns, prickles, stingers and fallen trees.

Only refreshments from the discovery centre can save the day. Seemingly manned by teenagers, they are that quick at getting toasties out of the kitchen, the cheese hasn't had time to melt.

Walk Details

Distance - 7.5 Miles

Geocaches - 10

Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine, July 2025, Walk 12

Tuesday, 12 August 2025

12/08/25 - Clutters Cave, Malvern

Toilet Cave in Broken Britain

The Southern, Herefordshire side of the Malvern Hill. If you want to visit soon, you've got to be quick. It looks like the A449 to the British Camp car park will be closing for 4 months. Of course, the ice cream kiosk have got a petition to stop the closure. How else will they sell two ice-creams for £10 to exhausted ramblers? A man on minimum wage has to work for two hours to provide a family of four with a 5 minute treat. 

This country is broken.

Malvern has myriad paths, so the dodgy hand-drawn map in the Saturday Times was never going to be that useful. Christopher Sommerville wants you to go south on the Three Choirs Way (must be walked!) over Hangman's, Swineyard and Midsummer Hills. Then have a look at the Eastnor Obelisk before coming back on the Worcestershire Way to clamber over the top of British Camp. 

British Camp Reservoir
Looking down over British Camp Reservoir
Top of the World Striding
Striding out on Hangman's
The Gulley Quarry
Meeting the Gulley Quarry
Eastnor Obelisk
Up close at the Eastnor Obelisk

Always trying to combine adventures - some things worked out, others didn't.

Facebook's Mysteries of Mercia wanted me to check out Clutters Cave.

Clutter Cave
Facebook Recommendation


Clutters Cave
Looking In
Clutters Cave
Looking Out

I should have checked the Facebook post's comments. Now frequently used as a Rambler's Toilet.

There's a Trigpoint to bag on Midsummer's hill, which oddly isn't marked on the OS Map.  A bit of pre-walking research would have helped.

As it would with the OS Marked Walm's Well, the oldest well on the Malverns. I was so close, yet distracted by the much more modern covered reservoir. The well is directly opposite, should I find myself in this part of the world again.

After the roadworks have cleared up.

And I have saved for ice-cream.

Walk Details

Distance - 5 Miles

Inspiration - The Times Saturday Walk, July 2025

Geocaches - 0 

Friday, 8 August 2025

08/08/25 - The Good Beer Guide Pubs of Wigan

Half Way There in Wigan

Wigan - just about within the Greater Manchester area - lists 8 pubs in the 2025 Good Beer Guide. I manage the first four, following a morning on the Greater Manchester Ringway. Is there enough here to justify a return visit?

Not in Tap 'n' Barrel is an accurate representation of the local beer scene. A micro pub, hosted down a small shopping arcade, I struggle to find service. An unmanned bar, that remains unmanned to the point of discomfort. Should I say something to the two other punters? Should I help myself and break my duck of having "never pulled a pint in my life"?

Tap N Barrel, Wigan
External Speaking sharing indie pop to the streets of Wigan

After a good five minutes, a lady appears from upstairs and apologises. Pork pies are available on the weekend and I determine the weekend starts on a Friday lunchtime. Three real ales are on, but all pale ales. I make a mistake with my Wensleydale Semer Water, which was definitely on the turn. That slightly acetic sniff and taste of vinegar. It should really have been returned.

Tap N Barrel, Wigan
Lunch, nearly sorted

A better experience at the very traditional Anvil. And prices that cannot be sniffed at. Phoenix Brewery Arizona a spoons-esque bargain of £3.45.

The Anvil, Wigan
Red Brick....
The Anvil, Wigan
... And Multi Award Winning

Wigan Central, hosted in railway arches, is a good place to sit and ponder my homeward journey at a town that has two adjacent railway stations. I could bang on about the complexity of our railway system but all I will say is this. A 48 minute, two train journey from North Western is three times the price of a 68 minute, three train journey from Wallgate. Even when there are severe delays from Wallgate. I am hoping to recoup the cost of a couple of pints from Northern.

Wigan Central
Under the arches....

Wigan Central offer an interesting selection of beers - both local cask and international keg, which is my blueprint for how a micro should operate. I'm a little unsure of the gimmicky railway signal ordering system available on all tables. A full pub, and no one taking advantage of table service by raising the flag.

Abbeydale Black Mass always getting acknowledgement from the brewery during an Untappd check in.

Which leaves for today the 2021 Historic England Conservation award winning Swan and Railway

An unassuming exterior leads to one of those labyrinthine pubs with many rooms to explore. After a long discussion with the barman about Bass, I settle in the front left room - with a spreadsheet of pub tickers and a couple of delayed train travelers.

Swan and Railway, Wigan
Pub Art #1
Swan and Railway, Wigan
Pub Art #2

Enough here to warrant coming back to find the remaining four. Although spending an afternoon in the Swan would also be recommended.

08/08/25 - Greater Manchester Ringway - Stage 15

All Downhill from Here

Winter Hill was the final big hill on the Greater Manchester Ringway. It's going to be interesting to see what I find with the last five stages. 

After 13 miles yesterday, it's nice to have a gentler walk today - although purists will notice a rather big navigational error that led to a couple of miles being knocked off today's route. To be fair, it is easy to just plod on along canals and the bit I missed, Haigh Hall, I have previously walked.

Little to report in the early stages, passing through Blackrod village, with all the views behind to Winter Hall.

Winter Hill
Yesterday's GM Ringway

If there was a theme for today - it would be transportation links. The former Lancashire Union Joint Railway leading to the longest canal in Northern England.

Lancashire Union Joint Railway
Bridges over track beds
Leeds Liverpool Canal
Bridges over canals.

The Worthington Lakes break up the straight line walking - a series of reservoirs on the River Douglas providing water to the townspeople of Wigan.

It's the River Douglas that provides the route back to civilisation.

Wigan - with 8 Good Beer Guide ticks and the complexity of two adjacent train stations to provide post beer confusion on how best to get back to Salford.

That many pubs are always worthy of a separate blog.

Walk Information

Start - Blackrod

Finish - Wigan

Previous Stages - Stage 1Stage 2Stage 3Stage 4Stage 5Stage 6Stage 7Stage 8Stage 9Stage 10Stage 11Stage 12Stage 13, Stage 14

Distance -  9 Miles

Geocaches - 25

Walk Inspiration

Thursday, 7 August 2025

07/08/25 - Greater Manchester Ringway - Stage 14

On Winter Hill

I once walked Hergest Ridge, so this is not the first hill walk to have a song named after it.


To get there, it's a gentle climb, following Eagley Brook, past impressive mills and through Barrow Bridge. Unusually, it rains. It never rains in Manchester. In 2025, I'm not even being ironic.

The route details are told through an Adventure Lab Cache, which sadly eludes me. The gates on the old road are firmly closed, as work is underway on replacing the supporting cables. This means I cannot bring you photos of the Scotsman’s Stump, marking the 1838 murder of George Henderson, or of the site where a Bristol Britannia crashed in 1958, killing 35 people. Other smaller aircraft accidents have happened here too, and it was also the scene of the 1896 Winter Hill mass trespass, when over 10,000 people protested against land enclosure. At 456 metres, the hill is now most recognisable for its large TV and radio mast.

Winter Hill Trespass Memorial
Trespass Memorial
TV Mast on Winter Hill
The road to nowhere
Coming down off Winter Hill
Pigeon Tower

Once across the M61, it's a short distance to Blackrod Railway station. An uninspiring "bar and grill" pub didn't look worth the wait between hourly trains.

This left time at Deansgate to make sure the Britons Protection was as I remember it. Looking good, but I don't think they have anywhere near the same number of whiskies.

Into the Britons Protection
Perfect Landlord, water chaser, no beer mats.

Walk Information

Start - Bromley Cross

Finish - Blackrod

Previous Stages - Stage 1Stage 2Stage 3Stage 4Stage 5Stage 6Stage 7Stage 8Stage 9Stage 10Stage 11Stage 12, Stage 13

Distance -  13 Miles

Geocaches - 15

Walk Inspiration

Wednesday, 6 August 2025

06/08/25 - Liverpool Ropewalks, China Town and the Baltic Triangle

A Liverpool First, Poor Pub Recommendations

I'm nearly halfway through the Liverpool A-Z City Walks Book. They may be running out of ideas, as I am sure that I have fully explored the docks before. Never mind, it's a fascinating city.

Before I get there - an odd walk, celebrating maritime history in the Ropewalks area and the city's relationship with China. Basically walking up and down arrow-straight shopping streets and nightclub-laden back alleys.

Liverpool’s Ropewalks district takes its name from the long, straight streets where ropes were once laid out and twisted for the city’s ships, reflecting its deep maritime heritage in the 18th and 19th centuries when Liverpool was one of the world’s busiest ports. Just south of the area lies Liverpool’s Chinatown—the oldest in Europe—established in the late 19th century as Chinese sailors, mainly from Canton, settled near the docks. Over time, it became a hub for Liverpool’s Chinese community, symbolised today by its ornate paifang arch, the largest outside China. This relationship grew through the city’s historic trading links, particularly with Shanghai, cementing cultural and commercial ties that still influence Liverpool’s identity.

Bold Street, Liverpol
Bold Street for the Shops
Street Art
Street Art
Bombed Out Church
All Together Now - at the Bombed Out Church
Liverpool Entertainment Options
Entertainment Options for later
Chinese Arch, Liverpool
Largest Arch outside of China

I'm ahead of myself, having already visited this walk's pub recommendations - The Monro, one of Liverpool's oldest and the unique Bridewell, hosted in a former Police Station.

The second walk explores the South Docks, adding in the vibrant and rapidly gentrifying Baltic Triangle. All artisan bakers and brewers and extensive building regeneration.

Liverpool’s Baltic Triangle is a former 19th-century dockside industrial zone—once home to timber yards, warehouses, and merchants trading with the Baltic region—that has transformed into one of the city’s most vibrant creative and nightlife districts. Retaining its red-brick heritage and landmarks like the Gustav Adolf Scandinavian Church and the Baltic Fleet pub, it now buzzes with independent bars, food markets, live music venues, and street art, including the famous Klopp mural. Anchored by hubs such as Cains Brewery Village, Baltic Market, and Camp and Furnace, the area has attracted hundreds of creative and digital businesses. 

South Docks, Liverpool
The South Docks (again)

My guide book recommending the Baltic Fleet (of course) and Love Lane Brewery which is somewhere new to me.

I have two other sources of recommendation. A lengthy chat with the landlord of Tewkesbury's Cross House Tavern, which showed the man really knew his pub onions. And of course, the Good Beer Guide has one city centre entry left to tick. Let's tackle them in order of visit.

Mr Tewkesbury mentioned all the classics you'd expect but the Coburg was previously unheralded. I rather like the way it is making a stand against rampant mid-rise development.

The Coburg, Liverpool
Holding out - The Coburg

Alas, I found little evidence of a "pub packed with maritime history" and the beer choice was keg only. I can only assume the pub has changed since my barman moved south.

The guidebook suggested I try Love Lane Brewery. A hipster brewery tap that has resurrected one of Liverpool's famous brewery brands - Higsons.

Love Lane Brewery
Higsons House

Few customers and a very bored staff member that failed to notice a new customer waiting at the bar. She continued with her text message interactions. I wondered whether to cough, stamp my feet or simply shout. Instead, I thought I would see how long it would take.  Far too long, is the answer.

And saving the worst for last, I am unsure what the local CAMRA branch are up to. They have replaced the previous year's two Spoons recommendations with The Vines (worthy) and Ma Boyles, which is where I headed.

Ma Boyle's Liverpool
Neon Eatery

A subterranean restaurant with two cask ales on - one a house brew and the other unheard of. In a town full of great pubs, most recommended in the bible, this one is a real oddity. An unpubby atmosphere, with little architectural merit selling a poor choice of cask. 

I'd love to know their thought process for selection.

And what Timbo has done to upset them. 

Walk Details

Distance - 7 Miles

Geocaches - 20

Walk Inspiration - Liverpool A-Z City Walks, Walk 8 and 9

Previous Liverpool A-Z City Walks - Walks 1 and 2Walk 3Walk 4Walk 5, Walk 6 and 7