Monday, 3 March 2025

03/03/25 - Wolverhampton to Moseley Old Hall

From Priest Holes to the Posada

A 14 Mile Walk in Country Walking Magazine has the half way point at the National Trust's Old Moseley Hall.

Seems a more sedate way to spend a Monday by splitting the walk in half.

The Birmingham Canal Main Line is picked up more or less at the station and followed for almost the entirety of the walk. Toothless beggars looking for a pound as they try to get to a five. How they must curse the advent of contactless. Street drinkers balanced on locks. The smell of Jazz cigarettes at almost every human interaction.

Everyone met having a better day than the commuters on the train into town.

Birmingham Main Canal
Inner City Walking
Street Art
Street Art - Spacemen on Jazz Cigarettes

Fast walking on the canal, which is left under the M54 and then some unpleasant road walking along the uniquely named Cat and Kitten Lane.

Old Moseley Hall - a Tudor farm house, with not an uneven floorboard within.

Moseley Old Hall is a 17th-century farmhouse in Staffordshire, best known for sheltering King Charles II after his defeat at the Battle of Worcester in 1651. The house, built of red brick with timber-framed elements, features a traditional Elizabethan design with gabled roofs and a rich interior reflecting its period charm. It played a key role in the king's escape, with a priest hole used to conceal him from Parliamentarian soldiers. 

Moseley Old Hall
The new brick frontage concealing a timber frame within

Make the most of my NT Membership by having a quick mosey around the rooms and feeling that I really ought to ask questions of the wonderful volunteers who give me the history. When it gets to Charles II, I can add that I have just walked the Monarch's Way to get here.

Moseley Old Hall
Tudor Dining
Priest Holes
Sound advice for any situation

Next challenge is to work out how to get back into town. Would you believe me if I told you the 14:05 number 65 bus was on time? Would you also believe me if I told you a 4 mile as the crow flies journey takes just 5 minutes shy of an hour. Ask me a question about the parking zones of New Cross Hospital. I dare you.

This gave plenty of time to work out where I wanted to take my refreshments. The Great Western too obvious and worthy of saving for the second leg. My transport ticket enabling the continuation of my long neglected "Nearest Pub to Metro Stops" odyssey, which has sadly stalled at the first stage. Monday afternoon is asking for trouble to do a pub crawl anywhere.

So, its a revisit to an old classic. The Posada. C19th Victorian ornately tiled Good Beer Guide stalwart. Quite what the Spanish connection with Wolverhampton is, I don't know. Foreshadowing Adama Traore's arrival perhaps.

Posada, Wolverhampton
Handsome

The Bath Gem was a delight of deep lacings showing exactly how much liquid could be consumed per gulp. The ambiance, jolly afternoon drinkers and a minor kerfuffle with a gentlemen who demanded cobs, when no cobs were for sale.  He took his trade to the Lynch Gate Tavern, where he cobs desires would be more than sated. 

Posada, Wolverhampton
Happy Drinking in Wolvo


Walk Details

Distance - 8 Miles

Geocaches - 4

Walk Inspiration - Country Walking Magazine May 2024, Walk 14

Saturday, 1 March 2025

01/03/25 - London Spiral Stage 18 - Woodford to Hadley Wood

15 Miles but only 3 Pubs

And one of those was a Harvester and doesn't count.

Who would have thought London at the edge of Epping Forest and Enfield would be so dry? 

Today's walk was meant to start at Roding Mill Tube Station but that's too much of a pain to get to. Some odd loop on the Central Line. It makes more sense to add half a mile to the route and hell, you never know what you are going to find.

Clement Attlee House
A rather normal suburban house for a former Prime Minister. Clement Attlee was here

Not long till the South Western edge of Epping Forest at Queen Elizabeth Hunting Lodge. Mainly notable for the mud that has not stopped some sort of under 10s cross country run. Junior Mud Runners. There is no doubt I was wearing the wrong footwear.

Epping Forest
A rare mud free section of Epping Forest 
Pole Hill
Pole Hill Obelisk and Trig Point
William Girling Reservoir
Reservoirs in view

The twin reservoirs of William Girling and King George are dissected by a road. The urban streets of Enfield instantly forgettable. Simply nothing of interest.

The Albion kick off at 12:30 with a herculean task of facing the mighty Leeds. I hope to find a pub with wi-fi and power. Instead, I find a bench in the grounds of Forty Hall Farm. Already a goal down by the time I have logged on.

Forty Hall
Forty Hall Farm - London's only vineyard

Move on but prayers are answered for the second half. The Rose and Crown, Clay Hill. 

Rose and Crown, Clay Hill
Extend, Extend, Extend

It's got history. A pub is believed to have existed on this spot since 1572 and brace yourself, there is a Dick Turpin reference. Of course there is, although this sounds genuine. Owned by Dick's Grandfather.

Today, its atmospheric with low beamed ceilings and plenty of ancient wooded support beams to navigate. It might be "gastro" but I shall be forever grateful for the Chesterfield sofa and Timothy Taylor. Especially as the Baggies pulled it back for a credible and unexpected draw.

Onwards - 5 miles to go to Hadley Wood Station - sharing the route with the London Loop. I barely remember this section, despite it offering fine countryside walking.

London Loop to Hadley Wood
Re-wilding on the London Loop

Nothing to tempt you to stop at Hadley Wood - unless you are a fan of huge gated properties. Tap in and hot foot it back to the City.

Where, as always, a cancelled Avanti train awaits. At least Delay Replay is getting more efficient. The refund was back in my account in less than 24 hours. 

Walk Information

Distance - 15 Miles

Start - Woodford Tube Station

Finish -Hadley Wood Station

Areas Walked - Epping Forest, Chingford, Enfield

Geocaches - 4

Pubs - 1

Previous Walks - Stage 1Stage 2Stage 3Stage 4Stage 5Stage 6Stage 7Stage 8Stage 9Stage 10Stage 11Stage 12Stage 13Stage 14Stage 15Stage 16, Stage 17

Thursday, 27 February 2025

24/02/25 - Good Beer Guide Pubs of Ulverston

Population Representation Discrepancies 


The question I have is "Does Ulverston have the highest Good Beer Guide Pubs by population?"


I've asked ChatGPT for the answer. It says its too difficult, but does provide an answer to a different question;

Determining which town has the most Good Beer Guide pubs relative to its population requires specific data that isn't readily available. However, Rhayader, a town in Wales, is renowned for having a high concentration of pubs per capita, with one pub for every 173 residents.

While this statistic highlights the town's vibrant pub culture, it doesn't specifically indicate how many of these establishments are featured in the Good Beer Guide.

Barrow's sole entry discovered, so over a week - we try and fit in as many as possible.

The Mill for Sunday Lunch - it had the highest rating on TripAdvisor for food.

The Mill, Ulverston
The Mill, Ulverston

Lancaster Brewery tied house, just like the Duke of Edinburgh, Barrow's GBG entry. Perhaps unsurprising for a place named the Mill during the climate crisis, it had only just re-opened after flooding. Perhaps I should take this into account after pretty shoddy service. Forgotten drinks orders, disappearing waiting staff and condiments delivered after the meal finished. I was that mad that I checked the bill for service charge, to ask for it to be removed. Got myself all worked up for nothing. There was no service charge.

Beer fans may be pleased to know I very much like Lancaster Red.

On a separate night I managed to convince Mrs M to be the designated driver, provided I stuck to a 3 pub limit. Kofi Annan levels of persuasion to beef this up from two.

In a town famous for 50% of the Kings of Comedy, the Stan Laurel had to be one.

Stan Laurel, Ulverston
Another fine mess - we were 15 minutes before its 5pm opening

After a week of very nice traditional bitter, we decided to give the town's craft bar a go. Gather following the micropub blueprint to the letter. A shop conversion, (downstairs at least) a single roomer. Two booths and some high stools around a homemade bar. 

Gather, Ulverston
Gather for the Craft

Also as expected, multiple keg in a variety of size dispensing. Two cask. I looked for something that wasn't going to cause joint account woe and went for a cask Deya Friends of the Podcast. Which might just be worst named beer of 2025.

Gather, Ulverston
But in a nearly correct receptacle

Farmers Arms at the top of town undid its early good work by being the only pub in Cumbria that doesn't allow dogs (citation needed, excludes JDW). On entry, I was delighted to find a large platter of complimentary Hot Dogs, with two types of condiment. 

The Farmers Arms, Ulverston
Live, Laugh, Love

We got settled next to a couple of gents who were keen to engage in conversation. We are sitting a small Border Terrier that made itself scarce under the table. I never even thought to check about dog access. Eventually, she was noticed and we were asked to vacate to the terrace. Where an outdoor gas fire showed just why the Mill floods.

The Farmers Arms, Ulverston
Warming a Tirrels Borrowdale Bitter

The limited twitter conversation generated recommended the Old Friends as the best pub in town. A 5 minute walk uphill for a fine community pub, which had a packed front bar and plenty of banter. Alas, like Mary, Joseph and a Border Terrier Jesus, there was no room at the inn. 

Old Friends, Ulverston
Mrs M and the scourge of the Farmers Arms

We relocated to a side room, to listen to the pubby chat from afar.  A shame.  

Beer-wise - there were at least four casks on. I narrowed it down to an old-school and very traditional choice between Tetleys and Golden Hen.

Old Friends, Ulverston
The loneliness of a sideroom Tetley drinker

With a five star dog sitting review, we have been offered a repeat visit on a couple of dates. I will bring you the rest of the GBG Pubs later in the year. 

Opening times permitting.

Monday, 24 February 2025

24/02/25 - Tarn Hows

Saving the best till last

A week of varied walking comes to an end. We have had mountains, caves, beaches and valleys. 

Today, we need a pub lunch to steel ourselves for the long drive home in the dark. Hasty re-planning to take us to the plenty of choice Coniston.

I find a route on Komoot. No upvotes, no reviews but its an absolute beaut. Might have something to do with it being the first day of spring.

Start off at my second secret parking spot and work our way to the North Shore.

Coniston Water from the North Shore
Photo tells where we are

A lovely climb through Hill Fell (surely one of those word is superfluous) and then we emerge, unexpectedly for me who hasn't studied the map, at Tarn Hows. Mrs M refuses to believe it is man made, not least because the last thing they need up here is another big lake.

Tarn Hows is a picturesque lake in the Lake District, England, known for its serene beauty and stunning views of the surrounding fells. Despite its natural appearance, it is a man-made tarn, created in the 19th century by damming and merging three smaller tarns—Low Tarn, Middle Tarn, and High Tarn—by James Marshall, who owned the land at the time. Later, it became part of the estate of Beatrix Potter, who played a role in preserving the area before it was passed to the National Trust. Today, Tarn Hows is a popular walking destination, offering a scenic circular route and a tranquil escape into nature.

Simply gorgeous and instantly recognisable to the owners of the dog that we will return to them (and their house) this afternonn.

Tarn Hows
Approaching Tarn Hows
Mrs M at Tarn Hows
We're going to miss Ruby - a fine walking companion

The route back to civilisation is rather special too - the Cumbria Way jumping straight to the top of Long Distance Paths that need to be tackled.

Cumbria Way, Coniston
Mondays can always be like this

I believe that there are four pubs in Coniston. The Crown looks like it has been scrubbed up and expanded. The Yewdale hotel was a former CAMRA  regional pub of the year. I wonder if the interesting landlord of the Sun is still drinking more than his customers and messing about with local politics.

Yet there can only be one winner. Mrs M asks if I need another photo of the Black Bull.

I'm not sure when I will be back here - but I almost certainly will.

Black Bull, Coniston
2nd visit this week

Walk Details

Distance - 5.5 Miles

Geocaches - 3 and two ALC

Walk Inspiration - Komoot

Saturday, 22 February 2025

22/02/25 - Walney Island

Komoot has the answer

Walney Island, a spit of land 11 miles by 1 mile off the coast of Barrow-in-Furness, was never on our travel itinery.

Being in the Lake District, we did not expect such seaside weather. 

But where to go for walk? When in doubt, I always to turn to the app Komoot, and this fine route will reveal two coast lines in the middle of the island.

The seaward side is geocache laden and part of the newly formed English Coast Path.

Heading off on the Coast Path
Mrs M Striding off to find the caches
Walney Island
Vanlife

The round house cafe provides a cake and tea stop and we move inland to walk the estuary at Jubilee Bridge until we can see its Northern intlet.

Walney Island
Blue skies in Cumbria

We wanted to see Piel Island, so a car relocation to the Southern Nature Reserve. £3 pp entry fee, which Mrs M tried to talk me into spending. Ultimately, our minds made up by a dog ban.

Piel Island Castle
Still, we got the photo

Walk Details

Distance - 5 Miles

Geocaches - 9 and 3 Adventure Lab Caches

Walk Inspiration - Komoot User Loaded


Friday, 21 February 2025

21/02/25 - The Pubs of Spark Bridge and Lowick Bridge

Opening Hours

A grim Friday at the edge of the Lake District. The planned six mile walk has to be halved. We will look for sanctuary in pubs. They must be open on a Friday.

Bessy Bank Lane, ever upwards, until we make the wrong decision to trust an ancient field system. Mrs M says it doesn't look that bad. Mud, ankle deep, rather than knee.

Top of Bessy Bank Lane
Mrs M and Ruby on the wily, windy moors

We look at Spark Bridge from above.

Dropping down into Spark Bridge
Civilisation below

Two pubs available.

The Royal Oak has only just reopened. With keenness that will probably wilt, they are currently open all day, every day. Even Mondays.

A very warm welcome, where Ruby the border terrier was offered free doggy ice-cream and I was asked to pay for the single casks available. Wainwright brewed in Burton-on-Trent, rather than the county where the mountains are.

Royal Oak, Spark Bridge
The Royal Oak, Sparkbridge - Probably open

Ever a competist, I consider the nearby Farmer's Arms from the comfort of the Oak's fire place. I cannot believe these hours are true.

FA OPening Hours
Open No Hours

So I phone up. No answer. Risking not having another Wainwright, I decide to walk the 1/4 mile and message Mrs M if I am successful. It is Friday early evening. I am bound to be successful. You would not believe the look of disdain the owner gave me when I found him in his car park. I said I couldn't believe his website opening hours were correct and thought I would check. In the rain.

Farmers Arms, Spark Bridge
The Farmers Arms

Talking to locals, it appears as though the main building is now some sort of workshop, offering classes in pottery. The stables bar is the small building to the left. A review on pubsgalore seems to sum it up, rather enthusiastically;

The ambience is somewhere between art museum, artisanal pottery gallery and ethnic cafe, with the pub not exactly an afterthought, just differently presented.

Pubs are coming in all different sizes and shapes these days. But I still like mine open on weekends.

The pick of the bunch is the Red Lion which, rather incredibly, has been found by the local CAMRA. It's remote and serves a tiny hamlet of probably less than 100 souls but has made it into the 2025 guide.

Open every other day.

Red Lion, Lowick Bridge
Winter has come

We drank Bank Top Brewery Flat Cap in here on a couple of occasions. The best time was Friday just after opening time. Everyone in the village comes in to say hello. As they all recognised the dog we are sitting, we were soon involved in conversations.  We had questions.... Has whoever lives in Bridgefield Farm House been checked on? We were worried her Xmas tree - with lights on - is still in the window in February. Apparently, the lady is a year round Christmas lover.

No music, standing room only, a landlord that keeps a tab on a piece of paper, dog, super friendly punters.  Wonderful.

Red Lion, Lowick Bridge
Red Lion By Night
Red Lion, Lowick Bridge
Red Lion by Day

Walk Details

Distance - 4 Miles

Geocaches - 0

Walk Inspiration - Halved from Best Pub Walks in Lakeland

 







Thursday, 20 February 2025

20/02/25 - The Anglers Arms, Haverthwaite

Gimme Shelter

Appalling weather in Cumbria. It was only a matter of time. Horizontal rain and high winds. We decide that a woodland walk may protect us from the worst of it. 

And the plan very nearly works.

We start with the end in mind. An abandoned road at the side of the Anglers Arms. Will it be open on our return? If it is, what can we expect from an imposing building in a remote, sparsely populated village that could really do with a lick of paint?

Anglers Arms, Haverthwaite
Green on the side aspect

The walk is simple, but rarely less than gorgeous - down and over the River Leven. Into mud free paths at the old glassworks for a wooded route to Backbarrow. Under the main road and up and over Haverthwaite Heights. Looks like a heritage railway runs through it and the signage points out it is ancient woodland (more than 400 years old) and used for charcoal production.  Occasional views over Morecambe Bay and the hills.

River Leven
River Leven, with the heights behind
Haverthwaite Glass Works
The Glassworks
Haverthwaite Heights
Paths on the heights. View better in person.

Alas, Lane Ends proves true to its word. No way across A590T, so we are forced to double back to get caught in the rain in an exposed sheep field. We need the pub.

Which is thankfully open at midday on a Thursday. Google Maps in this area is often missing opening hours or dangerously wrong. With our local having Tuesday and Thursday's closed (unless its Folk Night), you can see why its tougher than you think to get a pint.

This is a Thwaites house. The sandwiches were excellent. There were other punters. My Gold was in fine condition. But those that know the blog, know there will be moans.

A 30p surcharge for having a half..... but at least they had a well displayed price list. Cask > £5.  An automatic 8% service charge. For delivering sandwiches to the back room of a pub. And when you count your chips (£4.50), you know you are in trouble.

I suppose they need to squeeze every pence out of their punters.

Anglers Arms, Haverthwaite
Back room in a pub? Well, we did have a floral display

Walk Details

Distance - 4 Miles

Walk Inspiration - Pub Walks in South Cumbria, Walk 13

Geocaches - 1

Wednesday, 19 February 2025

19/02/25 - Dalton-In-Furness Abbey

Agri-Cultural


An attempt to beat the rain. Ruby the Border Terrier is rudely awakened at the unholy hour of 8:15am to be whisked off to Goose Green, Dalton-in-Furness.

Today's walking a mixture of farmland and historical culture.

The Cistercian Way runs 24 miles from Barrow to Grange under sands. We complete a short leg of it to the Abbey.

Cistercian Way from Dalton-in-Furness
Cistercian Way - a nice footpath out of town
Dalton-in-Furness Abbey
Ruby and Mrs M keen to soak up some culture
Dalton-in-Furness Abbey
Furness Abbey
Bow Bridge
Bow Bridge

Furness Abbey, located near Dalton-in-Furness in Cumbria, was founded in 1123 by Stephen, Count of Boulogne, who later became King Stephen of England. Originally established as a Savigniac monastery, it joined the Cistercian order in 1147 and grew to become one of the wealthiest and most influential monasteries in England. However, its prosperity came to an end in 1537 when it was dissolved by Henry VIII during the Dissolution of the Monasteries.

That's the culture done. It's farmland through a grey looking Newton. Mercifully mud free but the weather turns increasingly dreich until the heavens open as we reach the town outskirts. Not bad enough that Mrs M wont leave me and Ruby out in the rain, whilst she takes her time deliberating which two scones offer the best value for money at the local delicatessen.

Signposts Home
Signage home - I've also been to Shatton in the Peak District

Pub wise - we are far too early for the earthy looking Clarence Beerhouse.

The Clarence, Dalton-in-Furness
A shame, I like a Beer House

I'm a big Hairy Bikers fan, so felt it apt to visit Dave's Home Town of Barrow for the first time. Alas, the weather was too grim for a mooch but we did manage to get to the sole Good Beer Guide Pub. For reference, Barrow has a population of 67,400 people. Ulverston, population 12,000 has 7 Good Beer Guide entries. 

Without investigation, I will not know if this makes sense.

Paying 95p for parking using only new apps could fill a blog on its own. But we manage it and make our way into the Duke of Edinburgh. I swear the man I am about to negotiate dog entry with is the same fella that served me on Sunday in the Mill. As soon as I hear his accent I find out how hard working Northerners are. Even when they come from Portugal.

The pub? Owned by the same Lancaster Brewery as the Mill. Lancaster Red doubles it entries on my Untappd. 

Duke of Edinburgh, Barrow-in-Furness
Hotel Fancy - Good Enough for DH Lawrence in 1914
Lancaster Red at the Duke of Edinburgh, Barrow-in-Furness
Lancashire, La, La La

When steak got too expensive, I started ordering gammon. I don't know where to go now that gammon and egg is £21. The singular was no a typo. One egg.

Tune in for my next blog, where we group test crisps.

Walk Details

Distance - 6 Miles

Walk Inspiration - AA Walks Through History, Walk 49

Geocaches - 2 and 7 Adventure Lab Caches